IN VOGUE REPRESENTING HISTORY AND THE PRESENT Laura

IN VOGUE: REPRESENTING HISTORY AND THE PRESENT Laura Jackson

THE BEGINNING December 17, 1892: a weekly gazette called “Vogue” was created by Arthur Baldwin Turnure v Wanted to show the “ceremonial inside of life” 17 years later in 1909, Condé Montrose Nast birthed the second republication of Vogue v A lawyer and publicist from Louisiana

First issue illustration 1906 First color cover

“More than merely a symbol of glamour and frivolity, Vogue became a publishing icon with a lasting impact on journalism and culture in general. Vogue made and makes history”-Condé Nast

Created to reflect the times

COVERS While it was still a gazette for women, the covers did not have a defined personality Nast changed this… Repetition of the “V” symbol, peacock to depict elegance, woman on cover not only wearing the latest designer but also reading an issue of Vogue THE ILLUSTRATION ERA—early 20 th century

INTRODUCTION TO FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY Photography became a new and popular medium in the pages of Vogue “A fashion photograph is not a photograph of a dress; it’s a photograph of a woman”

Gertrude Vanderbilt, fashion photography

1920’s Toni Frissel

VOGUE GOES INTERNATIONAL “The French changed everything” First Vogue Paris issue April 1920 French designers, artists, and writers Chanel, Dior

THE NEW WOMAN IN VOGUE Age of Coco Chanel, World War 1, Christian Dior v Change to fashion with new behaviors, new outlooks, new fashions v The tomboy, women in trousers, etc.

John Rawlings

VOGUE HAS ALWAYS MIMICKED THE TIME Alexander Liberman, a Russian painter, sculptor and photographer joined Vogue in 1941 as the editorial director Edna Woolman Chase: longest reigning Vogue editor (1914 -51) v Combined art and fashion v i. e. : Pablo Picasso appeared in the 1956 November issue

Alexander Liberman Edna Woolman Chase

Picasso in his studio November 1956 issue

IRVING PENN Joined in 1943 Photographer Reflected the times and trends

DIANA VREELAND Created a revolution “Fashion became more individual, set rules were dropped, and attention shifted to ready-to-wear clothing” v Fashion became more sensual, more youthful, new models, youthful faces, Hollywood, ethnicity, and fashion in action v (after Vreeland, came Mirabella, known for putting the first black woman, Beverly Johnson on the cover, REAL WOMEN

Twiggy, July 1967 Space Age Style

Richard Avedon

Beverly Johnson, first black woman on a cover

THE ANNA WINTOUR ERA Became editor in August of 1988 “Vogue reflects changes in fashion and society. It touches pop culture, art, politics, sports, design. We respond to what we see and to the times. ”

Anna Wintour’s first cover

Wintour created energy within Vogue and youthfulness much like her predecessor Vreeland Fashion Director Grace Coddington and André Leon Talley as creative director Core photographers: Steven Meisel, Bruce Weber, Herb Ritts, Ellen von Unwerth, and Arthur Elgort

“I wanted the models to have a modern look, for readers to see the cover and think ‘I could be that girl’”

SUPERMODELS AND HOLLYWOOD Used models like Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell “We are Vogue”-Evangelista Young Hollywood actresses and entertainers, celebrities (Nicole Kidman, Madonna, Julia Ormond ) Annie Leibovitz, Patrick Demarchelier, Mario Testino

Supermodels Peter Linbergh

STILL EDITORIAL Grace Coddington, editorial genius v Fantasy, magical, story telling

By Grace Coddington

“A target for all women” The Shape Issue, The Power Issue Michelle Obama etc.