Hair conditioner Colloids CE 457527 Juan Carlos Alva

Hair conditioner Colloids CE 457/527 Juan Carlos Alva Nieto Ken-Tye Yong Anthony Rivers

What is hair conditioner? • To restore hair to its natural state • Undo damage by giving better look • Containing cationic surfactants in combination with long chain fatty alcohol and other lipid components. • leave the hair to be soft, shiny and manageable

Hair conditioner as consumer product Safety concern • Toxicity • Eyes injuries • Irritation to the skin Colorants • Visual appealing Preservation of consumer products • Microbial contamination • Spread of disease

Hair composition • Morphological • • Cortex, Cuticle, Medulla. Intercellular cement • Chemical • 19 proteins: – – Cystine Keratin Glutamic acid. Leucine, etc.

Interactions of surfactants and polymer with hair Three main types of interactions: • Primary valence bonds (ionic and covalent bonds) • Polar interactions (Hydrogen bonds) • Dispersion forces (van der waals attractions)

Emulsions • Emulsion • Mixture liquid / liquid • Surfactant / amphiphilic. • “Water in oil” W/O or “Oil in Water” O/W. • Microemulsion • • Spontaneous formation. Thermod stability. High solubilization capacity. Clear appearance. Oil in Water O/W. Water in Oil W/O

Microemulsions and foams • Microemulsions • Liquid / liquid. • Stability – Second surfactant. – Proteins, glucosoides, lipoids, sterols. – Size bubble. • Foams • • Liquid / gas. Micronic layer Microscopic bubbles. Stability – Second surfactant. – Viscosity / liquid. – Proteins (Saponin, etc)

Reconstructer – Water-based • Microemulsion • Foam. – Solubilized proteins and amino acids. • Rebuilding blocks, -hair components-. • Carry and deposit in the hair surface. – Benefits. – Flexibility. – Repair damage. – Reduction in splits ends.

Formulation – Hair conditioner composition Anionic emulsifiers Glycerol stearate 1. 5 % Wt Cetyl alcohol 3 % Wt Lubricant additives Stearyl dimethicone 4 % Wt Humectants Glycerin 1. 5 % Wt Propylene glycol 1. 5 % Wt Preservatives Metyl paraben 0. 30 % Wt Carrier Deionized water 87 % Wt Fragance Not established.

Formulation – Reconstructer composition Hydrolyzed proteins Keratin, hydrogenated soy, yeast, wheat germ glycerides. Amino acids Cystine, aspartic acid, lauryl glutamate. Biological additives Casein, beer, eggs, nettle extract, etc. Other Vitamins B-12, Inositol, Paba, and Iron.

Adsorption • How the reconstructer works? • • Attachment of the hair conditioner – fundamental. Adsorption is very important. (large species). Low enough molecular weight proteins Penetrate and reconstruct hair fibers.

Detanglers Objectives and purpose • • • Removes tangles from hair Straighten curly and wavy hair Able to last for a long period Improve the texture of hair Easier to comb Imparts and glass like shine to hair

Ingredients used in detanglers De-ionized water (94. 6 % wt) 1 -hexadecanol (co-surfactant) (2. 5 % wt) Glycerin (humectants) (0. 5 % wt) Stearalkonium chloride (cationic surfactant) (1. 5 % wt) Citrus acid (acidifiers) (0. 4% wt) Colorants (0. 2 % wt) Fragrance (oil) (0. 3 % wt)

Functions of ingredients Stearalkonium chloride (Cationic surfactants) • Positively changed nitrogen atom • allowed the cationic group to attach negatively charged surfaces • Neutralized the electrostatic charges on the hair 1 -hexadecanol (co-surfactant) • Act as solubilizers • To form better microemulsion • Thermodynamically stable system

Functions of ingredients Glycerin (humectants) • Attracted to water • Penetrate the cuticle • Stabilize the moisture content within the hair shaft • Soften and swell dry brittle hair Citrus acid (acidifiers) • Dissolve the soap residue on the hair • eliminate greasy, sticking feeling caused by dirt

Making procedure • Oil-in-water emulsion (O/W) • Dissolve water-soluble ingredients. – 60% water – Heat & Stirring. • Dissolve oil-soluble ingredients. – Heat / melt solids. • • Keep stirring -10 / 15 min-. Add the remained water. Cool, add preservative and fragrance. Adjust p. H and viscosity.

Packaging reconstructers. • Bottle. • Used for the microemulsion. • Pump finger foamer. • • • Instant foaming action (foam). Mixture liquid/air No chemical propellant PET Easy to operate

Ingredients in Moisturizer • • deionized water hetoxide G-26 Methyl Paraben disodium EDTA Hest CSO Hetol G Hetol CA Hetamid MA 79. 03 % 3. 0 %. 15 %. 10 % 10. 0 % 2. 5 % 1. 0 %

Ingredients Continued • • Glyceryl Stearate. 70 % Hetoxamate SA-100. 70 % Cocoa Butter. 50 % Hest MS. 50 % Hetsorb L-20. 20 % Propyl Paraben. 05 % Kathon CG. 07 % Glycerol - thickening agent

Production Machinery

Process Diagram

Colloidal Attributes • Thickness – Makes hair thicker, fuller looking • Ability to stay in hair – Some conditioners you can leave in all day • Stability

Design Considerations • Make hair soft/manageable – Gives it that shine • Make hairs all lay the same way – Makes hair look smooth • Seals cuticle layer – Prevents frizzing • Prevent split ends

Surfactants used in Moisturizer • Ability to form micelle • Hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts • Form cross link

Marketing Considerations • Labeling – Tells active ingredients • Commercials – Shows results of using product • Different needs for different hairs – Sum need more moisture – Some for dyed, color treated hairs

Packaging • Materials used – Post consumer recycled plastics – Make containers soft, squeezable