YMCA Young Mens Christian Association The YMCA is

YMCA Young Men's Christian Association The YMCA is an international Christian organization founded in England in 1844. Its aim is to develop a healthy body, mind and spirit for members regardless of age, religion, race or nationality—leaving politics aside. A special emphasis is placed on creating a meeting place for different ethnic groups and cultures under one roof. Members of the Y are urged to respect all faiths and adhere to the vision of peace that the organization represents. 2 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

The Jerusalem branch was founded in 1878 and opened its doors to all religions and nationalities. In its first 10 years, the YMCA operated out of a religious book store on Jaffa Road. Afterwards, it moved from one location to another until settling into a building near Damascus Gate in 1909. As the number of members grew, reaching 200, the new place soon became too small. From the beginning of the British Mandate, the association blossomed and its activities expanded under the leadership of Dr. Archibald Harte, the Secretary-General of the Jerusalem YMCA. Aerial photograph from 2014 3 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Development of built-up area Jerusalem Atlas 4 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Joined by fellow members, the secretary-general helped nurture deep friendships between young people of different nationalities, and the Jerusalem chapter flourished. The urgent need for a larger building quickly became clear. 5 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Dr. Harte exerted great efforts to build a permanent home for the association, and as a first step he established a reading room and well-equipped library. At the time, James Newbegin Jarvie, an American philanthropist and close friend of Dr. Harte, was visiting Jerusalem. Some believe this friendship is what inspired Jarvie's generous gift of $1 million for the construction of the landmark YMCA building. 6 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

In 1925, Dr. Harte visited the United States, where Jarvie announced his decision to donate to the construction of the building in Jerusalem. This generous gift was enthusiastically welcomed by supporters all over the world. The International Committee of the YMCA in North America, the British National Council and a group of Jewish friends in Manchester, England, supplied the funds for purchasing the land. 7 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Aerial photo from 1920 8 Aerial photo from 1944 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

In the early 1920 s the organization purchased a 30 -dunam plot of land on King David Street from the Greek Orthodox Church. The property overlooked Mount Zion, the Old City, the Mount of Olives and Mount Scopus. 9 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

The building was designed by renowned American architect Arthur Loomis Harmon who, at the same time, was designing the Empire State Building in New York. Local architect Arthur Quinton Adamson oversaw the onsite planning and construction in Israel. End of construction in 1933 10 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem Building the carillon bells

Laying the foundations 1926/7 11 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Excavation began in August of 1926 and the cornerstone was laid in 1928 by Lord Plummer, the British High Commissioner for Palestine. On April 18, 1933, the building was formally inaugurated in the presence of YMCA officials from around the world. The building was described in great detail by the international media, and a speech by Field Marshall Edmund Allenby was broadcast on the radio in England in the United States. He declared that "here in Jerusalem, city revered by all, in the heart of Palestine, a land which has been from remote ages till recent years the scene of almost incessant wars, is erected an international monument of peace and brotherhood…" 12 Dedication of the building on April 18, 1933 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Jerusalem Mayor Raghib al-Nashashibi at the opening of the YMCA tennis courts 13 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem Snow in Jerusalem, 1939

Map of the British Mandate from 1947 14 Aerial photo from a British plane in the 1940 s The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

The YMCA building includes three sections: The North Wing The Byzantine-style auditorium called "The Mary Nathaniel Golden Hall of Friendship" seats 630 people. A 3, 200 -pipe organ once stood in the balcony. Twelve windows in the large dome covering the concert hall signify the Twelve Tribes of Israel, the 12 disciples of Jesus and the 12 followers of Mohammed. A lavish chandelier suspends from the dome and four sconces reflect the Star of David, the cross, the crescent moon and the original logo of the YMCA. 15 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

The Main Wing Across from the entrance is the reception desk of the hotel. At the northern part of this floor there are conference rooms, the restaurant and hotel lobby. The youth department and day camps are in the southern part. The hotel rooms are located on the upper floors of the main wing. 16 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

The South Wing The basketball court was once the only gymnasium in the country with wooden floors. Beneath the gym and squash court is a heated indoor pool – the first of its kind in Jerusalem – along with locker and storage rooms. 17 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

The basketball court was the first in the land with a wooden floor 18 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

The building is decorated with inscriptions, statues and reliefs that express the message of the Bible and the deep connection to the Old and New Testaments, including the huge seraph that adorns the entrance to the Y. Parts of the masonry, including the angel on the carillon tower, were designed by Ze'ev Raban, one the most important artists at the Bezalel Academy of Art in Jerusalem during that period. 19 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Towering 152 feet above the entrance is an observation deck with a panoramic view of the city in each direction: north, south, east and west. Half a floor below is the noble 35 -bell carillon, with varying sizes and weights. Bell Concert during the Open House Jerusalem festival The Bell Tower 20 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Two red stone pillars stand on both sides of the entrance, topped with impressive sculptures: On the left is the Samaritan Woman carrying a jug on her head, a story from the New Testament; and on the right is the Lamb of God signifying Jesus. The stone archway leading into the YMCA is embossed with the image of a vine and stalks of wheat symbolizing the Sabbath, the Last Supper or Passover. Engraved above the entryway is the Messianic prophesy from Isaiah 9: 6: "And his name shall be called Wonderful, Counsellor, The Mighty God, The Everlasting Father, The Prince of Peace. " The Four Evangelists also decorate the entry: A winged man represents Matthew, a winged lion – Mark, a winged bull – Luke, and the eagle – John. 21 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

On the floor of the vestibule lies a mosaic of the famous Madaba Map from the sixth century. This replica depicts Jerusalem. Madaba Map 22 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Inscriptions from the three monotheistic faiths are chiseled on the building's façade. On the right, in Hebrew, "The Lord our God, the Lord is One“, the center in Aramaic, "I am the Way, " from the New Testament; and on the left, in Arabic, "There is no God but God. " “There is no God but God” 23 "The Lord our God, the Lord is One" The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

In the garden leading to the entrance there is a ceramic plaque in Hebrew, Arabic and English with a quote from Lord Allenby's 1933 inauguration speech: “Here is a place whose atmosphere is peace, where political and religious jealousies can be forgotten, and international unity fostered and developed. ” Lord Allenby at the dedication of the building 24 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Jerusalem Municipality tourist map The YMCA at night, circa 1940 25 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

26 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Until the 1960 s the Jerusalem YMCA pool was the only one in the city. The building attracted many people from Jerusalem and beyond who came for concerts, lectures, performances as well as cultural activities and sports. Initial concerns about “missionary activity” quickly evaporated. Swimming pool 27 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Towards the end of the British Mandate, the YMCA building was the headquarters of the Anglo-American Commission of Inquiry, followed by the United Nations Special Committee on Palestine. With the 1948 division of Jerusalem, a new YMCA was established for the Arab population in East Jerusalem. In the spring of 1948 the YMCA building, the King David Hotel and the Terra Sancta Convent were declared safe areas under the Geneva Convention, and Red Cross flags were flown above them. The entrance to the hotel lobby 28 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

In 1948 the YMCA also housed the United Nations Mediation Committee headed by UN Peace Mediator Count Folke Bernadotte. That year, Bernadotte and his aide were assassinated and their bodies lay in state at the Y before being taken to their home countries for burial. During this period, guards from the US Consulate, a detachment of the US Navy, as well as Spanish and Turkish consuls were headquartered at the Y. Regular activities resumed in the building in 1949. At the time of the Six Day War in 1967, the UN established temporary offices at the YMCA. 29 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

The number of YMCA members rose from 1, 500 in the mid 1940 s to 2, 600 by the end of the 1900 s, with 64 percent of them Jewish. Today the Y runs an interfaith kindergarten with 120 children, a third of whom are Arabs from the Jerusalem area. With a heated pool, basketball court and beautiful concert hall, the Y attracts over a million visitors every year. The programs, aimed at developing a healthy "body, mind, and spirit, " are available to all communities, representing the diversity of Jerusalem. 30 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

The British Mandate period, mid 1940 s 31 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Until 1991, the YMCA's soccer field was the only one in the city and home to the Beitar Jerusalem team. 32 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Soccer game in the 1940 s 33 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Jerusalem in panorama 1961 34 Postcard from the 1950 s The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

The building's original youth hostel became the YMCA Three Arches Hotel. The Jerusalem Rotary Club made the YMCA its home in 1953. The Jerusalem International YMCA was nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize in 1993 and in 1996 was awarded the first Martha Prize for Tolerance and Democratic Values in Jerusalem. 35 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

The YMCA was not spared from the city’s booming construction and development plans. The legendary Beitar Jerusalem soccer field was dug up by a municipal ordinance and replaced by 250 apartments and 950 parking spaces. In exchange, contractors built a 10, 000 square meter, state-of-the-art sports facility for the Y. 36 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Jerusalem Municipality model 37 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

The 10, 000 square meter sports center is not yet in use 38 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

A Municipal Preservation Committee plan (#2097) did not allow any added construction on the YMCA premises. 39 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem

Sources: The Council for Conservation of Heritage Sites in Israel Photography: Isaac Shweky Jerusalem Architecture: The Period of the British Mandate by David Kroyanker The Map Library, Department of Geography, The Hebrew University of Jerusalem Library of Congress Archives Atlas of Jerusalem, Jewish History Publications Ltd. , 1973 Jerusalem Municipality website Wikipedia Music: Chopin Minute Waltz Op. 64, No. 1 40 The YMCA Building in Jerusalem March 2016