Safety Leadership Freedom of the Hills 8 th

Safety & Leadership Freedom of the Hills 8 th Edition Chapters 21 & 22 Supported by the United Way

Why? “Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory. -- Ed Viesturs, "No Shortcuts to the Top" “As an alpinist who carries a long list of dead friends and partners, I approach the mountains differently than most. I go to them intending to survive, which I define as a success. A new route or the summit is a bonus. ” -- Mark Twight, "Extreme Safety & Leadership. Alpinism" Supported by the United Way Updated 7/2012

Safety Most incident reports read like a list of bad decisions: – A lead to B • B lead to C – C lead to D » D lead to someone dying. Always be: – Prepared: • Proper gear: enough for the trip, plus a safety margin • Physically: enough for there and back, plus a reserve • Mentally: positive, not overly optimistic; realistic, adaptable and – Alert to changes and always considering “what if? ” Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012

Mountaineering Incident Pyramid If read from the bottom up… For every 200, 000 UNSAFE ACTs, the result can be viewed as 200 minor injuries, 20 major, etc. Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012

Hazards, aka Risks Objective Hazards: The Mountain Environment Subjective Hazards: Human - What you take into the mountains with you. THE GOAL: Reducing, or controlling the risks for you and the rest of your climbing team. – Can you avoid the risks? • If not, can you protect against them? • If not, can you reduce the amount of time exposed to them? Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012

Objective “Mountain” Hazards THE MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT - Physical hazards that are eternally persistent AND changeable. Crevasses, icefalls, cornices, Avalanche, etc. Weather - Cold, hot, rain, storms, lightning, etc. High Altitude – effects on health Loose rock or rock fall Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012

Subjective “Human” Hazards Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012 Photo by Mike Myers

Safe Climbs Three parts: Inputs - #1 Objective: Return home safely A plan to address hazards Staying alert during the climb Supported by the United Way

Understanding & Controlling Risks • You must be able to recognize hazards before you can avoid them. • If you anticipate loose rock? Wear a helmet. • If you can recognize avalanche prone slopes, you can avoid them. • Knowing your physical and technical limits. • Unknown unknowns • Carry proper clothing, equipment, and food. • Study wilderness travel and techniques and develop mountaineering skills. • Understand your own personal sphere of acceptable risk Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012

Be Alert to Changes that Affect Risk Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012

Controlling Risks Cont. The following picture was taken during a Winter ascent of Mt. Whitney. When thinking about controlling risks, what do you think may be wrong with this scene? Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012

Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012 Photo By: Mike Myers

Stability of the snow is unknown – no other tracks present. These climbers may be too close together for the conditions. When uncertain about snow conditions, cross one at a time. Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012 Photo By: Mike Myers

Leadership Just as every climbing party needs a map and compass, every climb needs good Leadership…. It’s one thing to head out with some longtime climbing companions for a sunny weekend of peak bagging, and another to mount an extended technical climb with mountaineers who may not know one another…. Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012

Leadership WHY DO WE NEED A CLIMB/TRIP LEADER? • Organize the Climb and Teams • Guardian of Safety • Takes positive control during a crisis Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012

Organize the Climb • • Research the route Evaluate weather conditions Arrange permits Evaluate the party’s strengths and weaknesses • • • Proficiency Size of team Determine how many should go Ensure proper equipment is taken Make decisions regarding time management Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012

Guardian of Safety is a paramount concern • Begins with planning and ends when you get home • Ensure everyone has proper equipment, experience and stamina, and that the route chosen is appropriate for your group. • Monitor conditions among group • Alert, watching, gently reminding, and nagging when necessary • Initiate tough decisions -Turn-around. – Weather – Time Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012

Takes Positive Control During a Crisis Whether you have a designated leader or not, your team must exercise positive leadership in the event of a crisis. Reality - One person will usually stand out as a natural leader and step up when the need becomes apparent. - Displays initiative - Good judgment - Concern for the Group - Generally inspires confidence Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012

Stay Alive and Return Home Safely • Know the hazards (mountain and human) • Know YOUR acceptable risk • Have a good state of mind • Be prepared for surprises • Be alert to changing conditions • Use good decision making • Have fun and return Home Safely Supported by the United Way Safety & Leadership Updated 7/2012