Croquis and Language of Fashion Croquis Sketch of

Croquis and Language of Fashion

Croquis Sketch of a live model n Method of drawing a fashion figure n Too tall in comparison to the real models n 9 heads tall n ¨ Magazine models are closer to 8 heads

Croquis guidelines n n n n n Head consumes space between 0 and 1 Chest starts at 1. 5 - always leans one direction Waist is at 3 heads Pelvis starts at 3. 25 and goes just below 4 heads - slanted other direction Knees are at 6. 5 heads Ankle at 8. 5 heads Foot touches floor at 9 heads Elbows are at 2. 5 heads Hands extend to 5 heads

Example 1. Follow with me as I go through this example. 2. Take your transparency and marker, place over your croquis and copy. Wipe your transparency and try again.

Practice On graph paper… draw a line 9 units long n Follow the guidelines to draw a head. Draw an entire croquis n Draw another one. n n DRAW TWO GREAT CROQUIS, leaning opposite ways, on a plain sheet of paper 9 inches tall (each one)- you will be keeping these ones

Fleshing out Add flesh to the sides of your model to determine their size… the proportions never change no matter the size of the person. n Remember when designing clothes, rarely are they skin tight n

Example 1. Follow with me as I go through this example. 2. Take your transparency and marker, place over your croquis and copy. Flesh out your croquis. Wipe your transparency and try again.

Next n Flesh out your croquis on your graph paper and your larger ones

Why? ? n These are the basis for drawing clothes on models. We need to practice, but it is more important to be able to draw clothes.

Why? ? These are the basis for drawing clothes on models. We need to practice, but it is more important to be able to draw clothes. n Draw two models- these will be yours to use in class. n ¨ Nice and big ¨ Slanting opposite directions ¨ Flesh out

See your packet CLOTHING

Warm-Up n Describe the type of clothing you are wearing today. What style of shirt, pants, shoes, prints? Describe the textures and colors as well.

Terms n Haute couture- the leading establishments or designers of fashion ¨ Create n exclusive items Ready to Wear- mass produced, factory made, finished clothing ¨ More commonly worn ¨ Calvin Klien, Ralph Lauren

Sleeves Use the text book to compare and contrast the three styles of sleeves. Talk about what they have in common (length) and what is different and unique about each one as compared to the others. Set-in Kimon o Raglan

Collar styles Button-down- has points in the collar that button to the shirt n Convertible- has a lapel, which is a pointed part of garment below the collar n Stock- resembles an ascot, which is an accessory added at the neck like a necktie n Jabot- used to be made of lace or a ruffle n

Dresses Sheath- no waistline seam, inward shaping at waist n Shift- straight and loose fitting, no inward shape n A-line- narrow at shoulders, wider at hem n Tent- large and billowy, hang loose from shoulders n

Dresses (cont) Empire- high waistline n Lowered waistline- long torso, waist at hips n Princess- seamlines going up and down entire length, no horizontal seam n Blouson- blousy fullness, belted, fitted skirt n

Dresses (cont. ) n n Shirtwaist- long, semi-fitted, tailored shirt, belt or sash at waist Coatdress- heavy, closes at front like a coat Asymmetrical- surplice closing, diagonal overlap to one side Jumper (over clothing) or sundress (hot weather)- brief bodice, shoulder straps and low neckline

Neckline styles n n n Décolleté- used with bare shoulders Jewel (round)- encircles base of neck Boat- straight across shoulder to shoulder, high in front Scoop- lowered and round, high in back Horseshoe- high on neck in back, Ushaped and low in front Cowl- draped with flowing folds

Skirt styles Straight- no added fullness, slim silhouette n A-line- extra width at hem on each side n Flared- fullness at hem all the way around, soft ripples n Circular- very full at hem, skirt forms a half circle when held out on sides n

Pleating vs. gathering Pleats- structured folds in the cloth n Gathered- pulled together at waist without folds n

Skirt styles (cont) Gored- vertical seams, panels are created, notice resemblance to the princess dress n Umbrella- many narrow gores n Wrap- overlap at side back or side front n Waist band- band of fabric that goes around waist and fastens with button or hook and eye n

Coat, jacket or cape? Coat- warm and weatherproof, worn over regular clothing n Jacket- same as a coat, except it is short n Capes- hang from neck and shoulders, no arm holes, restricts movement n

Features Wrap- no buttons, just a tie n Coachman- notice princess seams n Box- look at the shape n Bolero- cut above the waist n Single breasted- one row of buttons n Double breasted- two rows of buttons n

Pants Inseam- important when measuring and hemming n Tapered- narrower at hem than knee n Straight- some width at knee n Flared- wider at hem than at knee n Hip-hugger- lower than regular waistline n Gauchos- wide tubes n

Cap and French sleeves They are very short n Nearly a sleeveless shirt, but with a short kimono-like sleeve going out from shoulder. n

Sleeve applications Cuff- band at the bottom of the sleeve n Vent- opening from end of cuff into the sleeve n Placket- decorative strip of fabric over the vent n

Clothing applications Pocket- build in envelopes n Tab- goes on the edge of pockets n Flap- decorative pieces that fall over openings n Yokes- band or shaped piece that gives support and shape to rest of garment below. n

Blouses/Shirts tank wrap peasant mandarin fitted jewel-shell camisole scoop shell v-shell camp shirt sport shirt bib front square yoke-front blouse western surplice princess with peplum

Blouses/Shirts continued bowed Victorian 2 ruffle neck prairie middy/sailor painter’s smock yoke variation Elizabethan yoke variation tunic yoke variation Kimono variation asymmetrical caplet pleat smock variation

Blouse/Shirt Back Variations inverted pleated gathered yoke double knife pleat

Shirt Styles continued dress Polo T-shirt Hawaiian

Neckline and Collar Styles jewel/round strapless bateau/boat/Sabrina crew keyhole U scoop wide draped asymmetricalo ne-shoulder wide scoop square low wide scoop v-neck décolletté halter variation bib slit henley cardigan sweetheart split variation

Neckline and Collar Styles cont. mandarin/Nehru ruff banded ruffles ascot jabot portrait turtle neck cowl peter pan bow tie wide cowl platter bowed shawl pointed collar with stand notched bateau roll Oliver/puritan shawl Italian roll

Neckline and Collar Styles cont. reverse middy sailor chelsea tuxedo button down convertible pointed flat wing tuxedo notched band

Sleeve Styles ¾ flounce ¾ length halter sleeveless cap/French pinafore ruffle petal gathered butterfly set-in long fitted short set-in cap tailored shirt trumpet/ puffed kimono roll-up bell lantern raglan pagoda bishop puffed cape melon/ balloon

Sleeve Styles continued leg-of-mutton Juliette drop-shoulder dolman button notched French cuff batwing dolman ruffle cuff button-tab & fitted cuff epaulet gauntlet shoulder flange gathered binding plain barrel band cowl ruffled band angel peasant

Skirt Styles mini straight sheath 6 -gore trumpet 4 -gore flare straight trouser 8 -gore flare pegged A-line 6 - gore A-line circular dirndl Bouffant/ gathered prairie tiered

Skirt Styles continued knife pleat/soft A-line soft unpressed pleat unpressed center pleat 6 -gore inverted box pleat sarong stitched-down front pleat stitched-down knife pleat 4 -gore inverted box pleat variation umbrella pleat box cluster pleat center front slit kilt side slit hip-stitched pleat side wrap

Skirt Styles continued no waistband yoke “V” yoke partial yoke peplum draped-hip

Pants Style bikini Bermuda gaucho hot walking shorts gaucho with cuff boy shorts pleat culottes deck pant cropped safari culottes no waistband petal pushers hip hugger Jamaica knickers elasticized

Pants Style continued jogging drawstring jeans gathered palazzo harem capri yoke tapered pegged stirrup pleatfront bellbottom leggings straight leg flared

Pants Style continued overalls jumpsuit flared jumpsuit

Skirt and Pant Lengths Bikini Mini Short Above knees Knee Length Below knees Calf Tea Length Maxi Ankle Evening Floor Short shorts Shorts Bermuda shorts Pedal pushers Gaucho pants Cropped pants Classic Length

Dress Styles sheath Shift or chemise knit A-line sweater flare highwaist princess line dropped waist tent shoulder yoke smock caftan pointed V-waist surplice blouse dress shirtwaist princess coat dress blouse dress fitted basic sheath bouffant variation blouson

Dress Styles continued midriff yoke tabard peasant empire float drop-waist flare tunic jumper pioneer/prairie shoulder drape asymmetrical drop-waist pleat strapless shirtwaist hip-line yoke pinafore slip dress banded jumper drop-waist jumper asymmetrical shirtwaist

Jacket and Coat Styles cardigan classic straight directairè tuxedo chesterfield trench coat swagger balmacaan polo wrap duffle sport coachman cape top reefer A-line princess variation

Jacket and Coat Styles cont. bolero dressmaker box high-hip fitted blazer cap sleeve cardigan straight blazer semi-fitted blazer Channel loose unlined A-line variation aviation/bomber wrap princess-line blazer short blazer safari hacking

Jackets and Coat Styles cont. double breasted bomber pea jacket shawl stole elastic waist jacket drawstring poncho quilted parka caplet vest parka windbreaker

Sweaters variation patchwork summer pullover cable round neck cardigan crew turtle neck shawl V-neck cowl neck sweater set bateau dolman double breasted

Vests bolero square low hip/crotch length cardigan tabard weskit jerkin high-hip drop-shoulder short classic fitted waist low-hip drop-shoulder unfitted weskit high hip shawl collar high hip pullover gathered waist square high hip unfitted low hip pullover belted wrap button front variation

Vests continued fashion vest Oriental drop-shoulder

Design Details waist border print hip border print small vertical stripe medium horizontal stripe hip border print small horizontal stripe medium vertical stripe hem border print narrow vertical stripe wide vertical stripe narrow horizontal stripe wide horizontal stripe

Design Details small plaid medium plaid large plaid small print A-line piping yoke piping medium print jacket trim large print

Assignment Find 3 models in a magazine n Cut out and mount n Identify ALL of the clothing pieces (specific type of shirt and skirt, dress, shoes) and write them next to your example n