Hair and Makeup Design Hairstyles can reflect Time

Hair and Makeup Design

Hairstyles can reflect Time period Character Age Personality Gender Vocation - job Avocation – hobbies Social status Region/location Race/culture Health

Research Be sure to research the era and see some common hairstyles. Be driven from the script and the director’s vision. Create a fitting style for your character. Take a picture of yourself so you can replicate the look throughout the run.

Facial Anatomy Bones These are the hard shapes that make up the face They create the HIGHLIGHTS Fossae (that’s the plural of fossa) These are the ditches, dimples, hollows of the face These create the SHADOWS False highlights and shadows are created with makeup and prosthetics that can appear to change the shape of the actor’s natural face. Basic Face Shapes: Which one are you? First determine your natural facial shape so you can alter it to create a character

Triangular Wider forehead that narrows gradually to a slightly pointed or rounded chin

Pear Wide chin with a narrow forehead

Oval Length of the face is equal to 1 ½ times the width; small features A classically oval face can change over time, due to age or weight gain/loss.

Heart Narrow at the jawline, wider at cheekbones and forehead

Rectangular Longer than it is wide; squared-off forehead/ hairline and jaw

Round Face is as long as it is wide, within ¼ to ½ inches difference; rounded jawline & hairline.

Square Jawline, forehead, and cheekbones are equal in width, or nearly so.

Diamond Wide cheekbones, narrow forehead and narrow jawline; chin may be pointed, or just narrower

Fun With Glass Use a handheld mirror to determine the shape of your face. What shape best fits you?

Did You Know…? makeup can be used to give the illusion that your face is a different shape. This is useful for the actor, since your character is often a different age, race, personality type, etc. than you. Highlights and shadows are added to create these illusions. Prosthetics may also be applied to add to the characterization.

Symmetry The Roman idea of beauty was based on mathematical measurements and proportions. HOMEWORK Trace your face, then… Measure your face: Chin to nose Bottom of nose to eye bridge Eye bridge to hairline Edge of mandible to corner of mouth Corner of mouth to other corner Other corner of mouth to other edge of mandible

Temporal fossa to corner of eye Eye – across edge to edge Space between eyes’ corners Other eye – edge to edge Other side (same) Tip of chin to center of zygomatic arch (both sides) How symmetrical is your face?

Asymmetry Lack of symmetry can be due to Disease Stress underlying genetic issues birth defects accidents/trauma Hormonal changes Etc. Radical asymmetry is unattractive however, too much symmetry is boring and unattractive too.

Take a look…

The Effects of Stress

Corrective vs. Character Makeup Corrective Makeup: What every actor wears onstage Accentuates your natural shape and features Minimizes your “flaws, ” so they don’t distract the audience and take away from the show. Makes sure you don’t shine, bleach out, or become featureless in the bright stage lights. That’s why every stage actor wears at least SOME makeup. Yes; even you, boys. ; o)

Character makeup: Temporarily alters your face to give character effects Consider: Heredity –Cyrano de Bergerac’s nose; Spock’s ears and eyebrows Race – Caucasian, African-American different features Environment – determines color and texture of skin Climate Physical conditions Fashion – India; 60’s

Temperament/Personality Shy, outgoing, angry, etc. Health – premature aging? Stress Bad habits – smoking, squinting, overplucking eyebrows, drugs, drinking, etc.

Age • Youth – smooth skin, strong coloring, shiny hair, good blood flow (up to 30 – 35 y/o) • Middle-Aged – subtle changes in texture of skin and hair, lines around eyes and nasallabial area, lips begin to shrink (35 -60 y/o) • Old Age – more advanced wrinkling that began in middle age, crow’s feet, forehead creasing, chin arch, jowling, sagging under eyes, skin becomes less elastic and paler as blood flow weakens (60+ y/o) • Of course, your skin can look older or younger than your actual age!

Types of Makeup Crème Pancake or “cake” Greasepaint Translucent Powder Pencils – eye(brow) and lip Latex (with tissue and without) Foam latex – prosthetic pieces Nose Putty/Derma Wax – scar wax

Crème Makeup Apply with a brush or a damp makeup sponge Foundation (Base) – skin tones Crème Rouge – pink/red Lip color – natural, pink, red, orange Highlight - white Shadow – brown After powdering, press a damp towel to eliminate

Crème Makeup Advantages Disadvantages Water soluble Easy to clean off – baby wipes, soap and water Variety of skin colors Brush or sponge application Easy to find Relatively inexpensive Easy to mix colors Smears Shiny Muted colors

Cake Makeup Powdery makeup Base: Mix with water & apply with a sponge – large areas; brush on small areas Cake blush/rouge and eyeshadow - apply with dry brush

Cake Makeup Advantages Easy to apply – beginner’s friend Easy to clean off – soap & water Easy on skin No need to powder – matte finish = no shine Good for summer theater/heat Easy to find Inexpensive Disadvantages Streaking Muted color palette Difficult to mix colors

Greasepaint Used for clown and mime makeup, and special effects Oil based Packaged as sticks or in “wells” of colors Mix colors before applying to skin Blend with fingers Apply a coat of cold cream first, wipe off leaving a thin layer, then apply

Greasepaint Advantages Disadvantages Bright color palette Durable Easy to keep colors separate/clean lines Easy to mix Mask-like effect Difficult to remove – off skin and costumes Smears easily Shiny/greasy looking; requires a lot of powdering Tough on skin Makes you sweat Mask-like effect

General Notes: Never NEVER put a crème base makeup on after you have powdered. It will cake up and you will look old OLD and grodie. Begin with a clean, dry face. Know how to do your own makeup. Most often, you will not get an entourage. Test makeup on the inside of your arm before you put it on your face. Check for allergies and sensitive skin… Don’t go directly from the makeup to your face. Dab off onto your hand first. Mix it, blot it, blend it, check it. Build makeup in layers; don’t go “all in. ”

Check your look under the stage lights; it almost always looks different! Remove your makeup ASAP and always ALWAYS before you go into the house. In MOST cases, it ruins the illusion to reveal yourself in character makeup. You steal the magic when the audience sees the character’s face in your makeup, but you are no longer “in character” emotionally. It causes conflict. You are stealing from the audience.