Part 3 Getting Ready to Sew 1 Stay

Part 3 Getting Ready to Sew 1

Stay Organized • Gather all your notions and supplies • Double-check the steps to take • Press after each construction step • Fit as you go 2

Patterns and Their Parts • Pattern envelope • Front – Drawing or photo – Several garment views – Lists pattern number – Size – Price – “easy” 3

• Guide Sheet • Step-by-step information for cutting, marking and sewing • Cut out layouts and general information • How to lengthen or shorten pattern • Reverse side has sewing directions 4

Cutting Layouts • Is a diagram that shows how to arrange pattern pieces on fabric • Separate cutting layout may be included for interfacing and lining 5

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Sewing Directions • Step-by-step sewing directions appear on the back of the guide sheet • Fabric key shows how shading and texture indicate the right and wrong side of fabric any interfacing or lining 7

Pattern Pieces • Each piece marked with a number or letter with a specific name (collar, sleeve) • Number of fabric pieces to be cut is also printed on the pattern piece • Symbols and lines serve as guides 8

Pattern Preparation • Pieces will tear quite easily • 1. Remove the entire pattern from envelope • 2. On the guide sheet, circle the cutting layout you will use 9

• 3. select the pattern pieces for the view you are sewing • 4. fold the rest of the pattern pieces and put away • 5. cut apart any pattern pieces printed together that you need 10

• 6. write your name on the guide sheet, pattern envelope and all the pattern pieces • 7. smooth out pattern pieces • 8. on multi-sized pattern, mark cutting lines for your size • See page 484 Figure 7 -4 -know symbols • See page 484 Figure 7 -5 11

Adjusting the Pattern • Loosely fitted garments, minor differences can be overlooked • For fitted garments, measurements should correspond to your body measurements 12

Understanding Ease • Pattern sizes are designed for the body measurements listed on the pattern envelope • Most garments have ease added to the pattern • Ease is the amount of fullness added to a pattern to allow for movement and comfort 13

Comparing Measurements • Compare your measurements with the ones listed on the pattern envelope • If a measurement is not listed, measure the actual pattern piece • Seam lines are always 5/8 of an inch 14

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Pattern Adjustments • Pg 487 • Lengthen • Cut the pattern at adjustment line • Keep edges parallel • Tape pattern pieces with other paper • To add to length measure from the edge of the pattern • Shortening • Fold the pattern along the adjustment line and bring fold up exactly where it needs to meet new line and tape • At lower edge redraw new line 16

Adjusting Width • Total width adjustment of 2 inches or less can be made at the side seams • Adjustments over 2 inches require cutting and spreading pattern pieces • See page 488 figure 8 -4 17

• To increase • Tape paper along pattern piece edge • Redraw cutting lines and seam lines • To decrease • Measure in ¼ of necessary amount • Redraw cutting lines and side seams • See page 488 18

Preparing Fabric • Straightening Fabric Ends • Selvage –two finished edges running lengthwise • Straighten the fabric by pulling if possible and on knitted you need to cut • See page 490 Figure 9 -1 -fabric terms 19

Preshrinking Fabrics • Wash or dry-clean fabric to prevent of minimize shrinkage • Helps remove fabric finishes that cause stitching problems 20

• Washable fabrics – Simply wash – If ravel easily, zigzag the raw edges • Hand-washable – Fold fabric and place in hot or warm water for 30 minutes and tumble dry or dry flat • Dry clean – Take to a dry cleaner or self service 21

Straightening the Grain • Off grain – when the crosswise and lengthwise yarns are not at right angles • If not straightened the final product might pull or twist • To straighten pull on the true bias • See page 491 Figure 9 -5 22

Pressing Fabric • Press fabric and pattern pieces if necessary • Fabric needs to be flat and no wrinkles 23

Laying out the Pattern • Finding the right side • Usually right side is out on the bolt • May be shinier or brighter 24

Folding the Fabric • Cutting layout shows exactly how to fold fabric • Most are folded with right sides together • Stripes and plaids are folded wrong side out for matching 25

• Fabric may need to be folded lengthwise, crosswise, double, or partial • See page 492 Figure 10 -1 26

See page 492 figure 10 -1 • Lengthwise – Fold fabric lengthwise with right sides together • Crosswise – fold fabric crosswise, right sides together • Double fold – Fold fabric twice along the lengthwise grain, right sides together (usually for knits) • Partial fold – Fold fabric on lengthwise, right sides together only wide enough for pattern piece 27

• After folding, smooth out any wrinkles • Work on a large, hard surface to full width of fabric can be laid out 28

Pinning Pattern Pieces • Lay out all pieces in same position as shown in the cutting layout • Most are placed printed side up • An arrow or “place on fold” bracket indicates the grain line • Never tilt or angle a piece to fit • Place pins at right angles 29

Follow These Steps • 1. Start with large pattern pieces that go on the fold • 2. Pin pieces that have a grain line arrow • 3. Count number of pieces on cutting layout and compare to the number on the fabric • 4. Double-check your layout 30

Special Layouts • Napped fabric – Lay pieces in same direction – Nap to run up the garment • Plaids – Even or uneven – Use dominant line of the plaid for the center front or back 31

• Stripes – Use a without-nap layout – Dominant stripe in middle of front and back • Directional prints – Use with-nap layout • Border prints – Place pieces on crosswise grain – Place others where they will fit 32

Cutting and Marking Fabric • Cut accurately • Use bent-handled shears • Cut directionally with the grain line • Follow correct cutting line on multisized pattern • Cut carefully around notches 33

• Leave pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until you are ready to sew • Save all fabric scraps – To test marking methods, stitches, pressing temperatures 34

What to Mark • Lines and symbols are important guides • Mark: • Darts, pleats, tucks, dots, placements lines for buttons, button holes, pockets, any trim 35

Marking Methods • Fabric marking pens – Contain ink that removes water or evaporates from fabric • Tracing wheel and dressmaker’s tracing paper – Papers that make permanent marks – Papers that make removable marks 36

Tailors Chalk • Mark on the wrong side • Can be easily brushed off so handle carefully 37

Summary • Pattern information and instructions are provided on the envelope, guide sheet, and tissue pattern pieces. • Body measurements should be compared to those on apattern envelope to see if any adjustments are needed 38

• Fabric may need straightening, preshrinking, or pressing • The cutting layout shows how to arrange pattern pieces on fabric 39

• Each pattern piece should be placed on the proper grain line before pinning in place. • Bent handled shears are used to cut out pattern pieces 40

• Construction lines and symbols can be marked with a fabric marking pen, tracing wheel and dressmaker’s tracing paper or tailor’s chalk 41