Waves and Shoreline Features Chapter 16 2 and

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Waves and Shoreline Features (Chapter 16. 2 and 16. 3)

Waves and Shoreline Features (Chapter 16. 2 and 16. 3)

16. 2 Waves in the Sea • • Waves are caused by one of

16. 2 Waves in the Sea • • Waves are caused by one of 3 ways: 1) underwater earthquakes 2) gravitational pull of moon (tides) 3) most common way is wind

Winds and Waves • Height of a wind-formed wave depends on: 1) wind speed

Winds and Waves • Height of a wind-formed wave depends on: 1) wind speed 2) length of time that the wind blows 3) the fetch (length of open water over which the wind blows)

Features of Water Waves • Wave height is the difference between a wave’s crest

Features of Water Waves • Wave height is the difference between a wave’s crest (high-pt. ) and trough (low-pt. ) • Wavelength is the distance from one crest to the next

Wave Refraction • Explains why an uneven shoreline with shallow water is worn away

Wave Refraction • Explains why an uneven shoreline with shallow water is worn away to a more even shoreline -incoming waves reach a headland 1 st -wave slows down and refracts, striking headland on all sides Refraction – bending of water waves as they reach shallow water

16. 3 Shoreline Features • Ocean waves change the shape of a shoreline by

16. 3 Shoreline Features • Ocean waves change the shape of a shoreline by eroding rock materials and by depositing sediments • when waves strike the headlands, they cut away the rock up the high-tide level – Cliffs made of soft materials (soil and clay) wear away faster – In cliffs made of harder rocks: • Notches deepen to become sea caves • Sea caves with broken walls become sea arches • Sea arches that have a broken roof, leave a narrow rock island=sea stack

Sandy Areas • Beach – area of shore between the high-tide level and the

Sandy Areas • Beach – area of shore between the high-tide level and the low-tide level – Most of the sand on beaches has been deposited by rivers – Sand that is eroded and carried from headlands across the front of bays, may form a sandbar that is attached to the headland on one end. This is called a spit. – If it forms completely across the bay, it becomes a baymouth bar.

Lagoons • Sandbars protect the water behind them from strong winds and waves (these

Lagoons • Sandbars protect the water behind them from strong winds and waves (these areas are called lagoons) • Lagoons that fill with sediments over time, become salt marshes • Sandbars that are NOT attached to shores, but run parallel to it, are called barrier islands. • Barrier islands, sandbars, and beaches are NOT permanent features

Types of Shorelines • 1) Irregular shoreline- has many inlets and bays • Form

Types of Shorelines • 1) Irregular shoreline- has many inlets and bays • Form when coastal areas are flooded by the sea • Fjords-long, steep-sided bays formed by glaciers • 2) Regular shoreline – is relatively straight – Bordered by sea cliffs and sea stacks

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