YARN F RECAST SUBMITTED TO MRS MANJU HUNDEKAR
YARN F RECAST SUBMITTED TO: MRS. MANJU HUNDEKAR
CONTENTS • • • YARN HISTORY SPINNING MACHINES YARN FORECAST BIBLIOGRAPHY
YARN HISTORY • Natural fibers—cotton, flax, silk, and wool—represent the major fibers available to ancient civilizations. The earliest known samples of yarn and fabric of any kind were found near Robenhausen, Switzerland, where bundles of flax fibers and yarns and fragments of plain-weave linen fabric, were estimated to be about 7, 000 years old. • Cotton has also been cultivated and used to make fabrics for at least 7, 000 years. It may have existed in Egypt as early as 12, 000 B. C. Fragments of cotton fabrics have been found by archeologists in Mexico (from 3500 B. C. ). , in India (3000 B. C. ), in Peru (2500 B. C. ), and in the southwestern United States (500 B. C. ). Cotton did not achieve commercial importance in Europe until after the colonization of the New World. Silk culture remained a specialty of the Chinese from its beginnings (2600 B. C. ) until the sixth century, when silkworms were first raised in the Byzantine Empire.
• Synthetic fibers did not appear until much later. The first synthetic, rayon, made from cotton or wood fibers, was developed in 1891, but not commercially produced until 1911. Almost a half a century later, nylon was invented, followed by the various forms of polyester. Synthetic fibers reduced the world demand for natural fibers and expanded applications. • Until about 1300, yarn was spun on the spindle and whorl. A spindle is a rounded stick with tapered ends to which the fibers are attached and twisted; a whorl is a weight attached to the spindle that acts as a flywheel to keep the spindle rotating. The fibers were pulled by hand from a bundle of carded fibers tied to a stick called a distaff. In hand carding, fibers are placed between two boards covered with leather, through which protrude fine wire hooks that catch the fibers as one board is pulled gently across the other.
• The spindle, which hangs from the fibers, twists the fibers as it rotates downward, and spins a length of yarn as it pulls away from the fiber bundle. When the spindle reaches the floor, the spinner winds the yarn around the spindle to secure it and then starts the process again. This is continued until all of the fiber is spun or until the spindle is full. • A major improvement was the spinning wheel, invented in India between 500 and 1000 A. D. and first used in Europe during the Middle Ages. A horizontally mounted spindle is connected to a large, hand-driven wheel by a circular band. The distaff is mounted at one end of the spinning wheel and the fiber is fed by hand to the spindle, which turns as the wheel turns. A component called the flyer twists the thread just before it is wound on a bobbin. The spindle and bobbin are attached to the wheel by separate parts, so that the bobbin turns more slowly than does the spindle. Thus, thread can be twisted and wound at the same time. About 150 years later, the Saxon wheel was introduced. Operated by a foot pedal, the Saxon wheel allowed both hands the freedom to work the fibers.
• A number of developments during the eighteenth century further mechanized the spinning process. In 1733, the flying shuttle was invented by John Kay, followed by Hargreaves' spinning jenny in 1766. The jenny featured a series of spindles set in a row, enabling one operator to produce large quantities of yarn. Several years later Richard Arkwright patented the spinning frame, a machine that used a series of rotating rollers to draw out the fibers. A decade later Samule Cromptons' mule machine was invented, which could spin any type of yarn in one continuous operation. • The ring frame was invented in 1828 by the American John Thorp and is still widely used today. This system involves hundreds of spindles mounted vertically inside a metal ring. Many natural fibers are now spun by the open-end system, where the fibers are drawn by air into a rapidly rotating cup and pulled out on the other side as a finished yarn.
THE FUTURE • Spinning systems and yarn manufacturing machinery will continue to become more automated and will be integrated as part of a manufacturing unit rather than as a separate process. Spinning machines have already been developed that combine carding and drawing functions. Production rates will increase by orders of magnitude as machines become available with even more spindles. Robot-controlled equipment will become standard. • Asian countries will continue to buy the latest textile machinery technology. Higher material prices will not help, since the cost of the raw material can represent up to 73% of the total cost of producing the yarn. U. S. yarn producers will continue to form alliances with their customers and customers' customers to remain competitive.
• The textile industry is also forming unique partnerships. The American Textile Partnership is a collaborative research and development program among industry, government, and academia aimed at strengthening the competitiveness of the U. S. industry. • Another continuing challenge for the industry will be compliance with stricter environmental regulations. Recycling is already an issue and processes are under development to manufacture yarn from scrap material, including denim. Yarn producers will have to incorporate pollution prevention measures to meet the air and water quality restrictions. Equipment manufactures will continue to play an important role in this endeavor. • Genetic engineering will become more widely used for developing fibers with unique properties. Researchers have developed genetically-altered cotton plants, whose fibers are especially good at retaining warmth. Each fiber is a blend of normal cotton and small amounts of a natural plastic called polyhydroxybutyrate. It is predicted that dye-binding properties and greater stability will be possible with new fibers in the next generation.
• New synthetic fibers will also be developed that combine the best qualities of two different polymers. Some of these fibers will be produced through a chemical process, whereas others will be generated biologically by using yeast, bacteria, or fungi.
HAND SPINNING • • • The origins of spinning fibre to make string or yarn are lost in time, but archaeological evidence has been dated to the Upper Palaeolithic era, some 20, 000 years ago. In the most primitive type of spinning, tufts of animal hair or plant fibre are rolled down the thigh with the hand, and additional tufts are added as needed until the desired length of spun fibre was achieved. Later, the fibre was fastened to a stone which was twirled round until the yarn was sufficiently twisted, whereupon it was wound upon the stone and the process repeated over and over. The next method of twisting yarn in 1300 A. D. was with the spindle, a straight stick eight to twelve inches long on which the thread was wound after twisting. The distaff was used for holding the bunch of wool, flax, or other fibres. It was a short stick on one end of which was loosely wound the raw material. The other end of the distaff was held in the hand, under the arm or thrust in the girdle of the spinner. When held thus, one hand was left free for drawing out the fibres.
A spindle with distaff. Mechanism of a spindle.
• • A spindle containing a quantity of yarn rotates more easily, steadily and continues longer than an empty one, hence the next improvement was the addition of a weight called a spindle whorl at the bottom of the spindle. These whorls are discs of wood, stone, clay, or metal with a hole in the center for the spindle, which keep the spindle steady and promote its rotation. Spindle whorls appeared in the Neolithic era. Whorl made from Coptic in the Egyptian era. Whorl made from wood in the recent time.
Reine Berthe instructing girls to spin flax on spindles using distaffs.
A Tibetan spinning wool on a spindle in 1905.
A hand spinner using the short draw technique to spin wool.
SPINNING WHEEL • • • Developed in India around 500 B. C. , the great wheel was used for spinning until about 200 years ago, when it was largely replaced by industrial machines. The wheel creates fine, even yarn by maintaining consistent tension and good speed. The thread which turns the spindle is called the drive band; as the wheel turns, the wool is drawn into thread, then twisted and wound by the bobbin. About 150 years later, the Saxon wheel was introduced. Operated by a foot pedal, the Saxon wheel allowed both hands the freedom to work the fibers.
SPINNING JENNY • The Spinning Jenny was invented in 1764 by J. Hargreaves. • Spinning Jenny is a machine that spins a number of threads at once. It initiated the industrial revolution.
FLYER SPINNING FRAME • • Introduced by Richard Arkwright in 1769, the flyer spinning frame (also called the throstle or roll-drawing machine) reflects the move toward automation that characterized the Industrial Revolution. The machine is powered by the drive wheel at the bottom, drawing out the fibre into thread, then twisting it as it is wound onto the bobbins.
WATER FRAME • Since the spinning frame was too large to be operated by hand, it was powered by a waterwheel which became the water frame.
SPINNING MULE • • Samuel Crompton(1753 -1827), British inventor, invented the spinning mule, a machine that was able to spin cotton into thread finer and faster than was possible with hand spinning. Crompton completed the machine in 1779, after five years of working secretly at night. The spinning mule simultaneously drew, twisted, and wound cotton into a fine yarn and decreased the danger of breaking. The thread that the mule produced was fine enough to be used for smooth fabrics such as muslin.
RING FRAME • • • The ring frame was invented in 1828 by the American John Thorp and is still widely used today. This system involves hundreds of spindles mounted vertically inside a metal ring. Many natural fibers are now spun by the open-end system, where the fibers are drawn by air into a rapidly rotating cup and pulled out on the other side as a finished yarn.
RECENT DEVELOPMENTS IN SPINNING MACHINES
A recent version of ring spinning frame.
A mule spinning machine at Quarry Bank Mill, UK.
Parkdale, one of the leading yarn producers in the world has installed the longest rotor-spinning machine in the world.
Air jet spinning machine
THE FUTURE • Modern powered spinning, originally done by water or steam power but now done by electricity, is vastly faster than hand-spinning. • The ring spinning will continue to be the most widely used form of spinning machine in the near future, because it exhibits significant advantages in comparison with the new spinning processes. • Following are the advantages of ring spinning frame : 1. It is universally applicable, i. e. any material can be spun to any required count 2. It delivers a material with optimum characteristics, especially with regard to structure and strength. 3. it is simple and easy to master 4. the know-how is well established and accessible for everyone
YARN MANUFACTURERS • • • Crespis leon doro Merini and cecconi Carriagi Filpucci Tod and duncan Lafil Spoerri Zegna baruffa Sisa Pinori
FORECAST 2000/2001 Bulky Protection. Compact. Rib Relief.
Light Volume. Brushed and Fluffy. Shag Pile.
Winter Light Effects. Aged Metallics.
FORECAST 2002/2003 • • Lots of natural yarns: Cashmere, angora and kid mohair for their softness, ultrafine wools for their lightness, silk for its elegance, artificial yarns for their fluidity and cotton for its comfort. Boiled wools: Luxury becomes unobtrusive, decidedly modern and innovative, and most of all, comfortable. Flannels: The comfort and simplicity of flannels, reinterpreted in natural fibers and carded wool. Mohair Lace: A sophisticated lingerie spirit with webbing and lace knits in kid mohair. Woolly Clouds Cashmere: Baby camel and ultra fine wool for sensual knits and wovens that are imperceptible to touch. Lofty Cotton: Winter cottons in round and satiny yarns that are often extremely fine. Satins: Elegance and fluidity, but also relaxation and comfort in silk and silk blends with artificial fibers or synthetic microfibers. Kaleidoscopic Wool: Tweeds get provocative, eccentric and even come in mosaic or kaleidoscopic appearance
Used, Blurred, Brushed and Teddy.
Maxi Knops. Soft and Felted. Soft and Hairy. Camouflage Tweed. Winter Linen. Teddy Fur and Gold.
FORECAST 2004 “WOOL IN FAVOR AGAIN” • • • Wools come in soft, blurry with Mohair or Donegal yarns, in Chine looks and boiled and felted effects. They can also be very fine and smooth in superfine worsteds or in fine smooth yarns for fine jersey. After an absence of some years, The Woolmark Company exhibited once again at Première Vision, as part of the wool industry’s new marketing drive to bring wool back into the market, particularly for womenswear.
INSPIRATION 2006 YARN INSPIRATION YARNS DESIGNED
FORECAST 2006 “ANIMAL FIBRES” • Spinning of cashmere with extra fine counts and blended with cotton. • Swiss had technical approach to make cotton blended with regenerated bamboo fiber to make fine jersey. • Smooth, shiny and non shrinking wool yarn developed. • Zegna baruffa introduced Luxury fiber cashgora with wool. • Carriagi fine yarns produced extremely fine cashmere yarns for leisure wear.
FORECAST 2007 YARN INSPIRATION YARNS DESIGNED
FORECAST 2007 “BLEND OF SYNTHETIC AND NATURAL” • Wool, linen, hemp, cotton and silk are combined with viscose, polyamide or polyester to obtain subtle difference in appearance and hand, often difficult to classify. • Raffia look yarns combined with cotton or linen to give textured effect. • Bomb blast protection fabrics: Heathcoat’s award wining fabric- it is made from the prototype auxetic yarn with an elastic core so as the yarn is stretched for instance on blast impact the yarn gets fatter rather than thinner. It works because the core yarn is able to expand as the outer tight wrapping of very fine non-elastic fibre is ripped of on the glass. • Development of high quality luxury yarns for knitwear using innovative technologies.
• Advanced spinning techniques helped synthetic blends like core spun high bulk acrylic blends are bulky but very light and feel absolutely like the fibre that the acrylic is blended with, whether wool, cotton, mohair (because the acrylic will shrink allowing the natural fibre to bulk up on the outside core). • Research and experimentation in spinning and twisting of yarns. • Fabrics are compact and dense made with fine high twist yarns which create natural stretch. • Luigi botto has its own technique for creating natural stretch –’ 4 XT’ technology which twists 4 ends together in a high twist, this season the technique is used in fabrics made from wool-linen, woolviscose-silk and wool-silk blends. • Milior has introduced a new world of cottons with its incanto cotton yarns which creates extremely even glossy fabrics which is lustrous and soft.
SUMMER-07 fine guage linen and matt bamboo shine viscose
Ultra light , fringed, dense, random boucle, plaited…winter 2007
YARN INSPIRATION 08 -09 • timeless classic and inject new technical developments, rework, heather yarns, tweedy effects and new eco-organic blends also winter cotton blends and a hint of cashmere luxury. • Luxury effect.
FORECAST 2008 YARN INSPIRATION YARNS DESIGNED
FORECAST 2008 “ECO YARNS” • • Use of luxury yarns like Cashmere for all seasons. Specialty spinners for market of luxury yarns. Carriaggi fine yarns are Italian spinners of fine luxury yarns: cashmere and vicuna for knitwear. High quality maintenance through modern machinery For spring, cashmere spun in extra fine count and mixed with cotton, providing softness while remaining cool. Tod and duncan produced extremely fine woollen spun cashmere yarn for spring. Luxury cotton yarns are also keeping the market at the high end, spinner Lafil stresses luxury with rich extra long staples. Types of luxury cotton: Peruvian cotton- softest and most precious of haute couture cottons with a natural comfort which suits the skin, finess being the key, in the very thickest of light cotton yarns and contemporary effects which include cotton with steel or copper.
• “Swiss cotton” spinner Spoerry , which spins extremely fine counts of ELS cotton, has developed luxury blends of cotton with cashmere, baby alpaca, silk and even vicuna, all fine and light weight. • Organic cotton- blended by swiss cotton spinner Herman Buhler, making luxury fine organic ELS cotton yarns grown in US. • For winter, European producer Lafil developed an unusual new yarn from a blend of alpaca and linen which is called Irish alpaca, it plays contrasts to both fibres. It is offered for both woven and knitwear fabrics. • Arcana wool- developed by Australian wool service and Michel Australia. • Silklite is a blend of merino arcana with 20 % silk and characterized by a soft and smooth silky hand easy to wear next to the skin, gives elegant drape and good colour brightness.
• • Revival of ancient dyeing techniques and extraordinary products based on recycling. The eco-emphasis and trend to lighter finer and softer have been strong drivers for change. Australian wool innovation was focusing at the fair on its prestege grand cru collection titled fifteen and finer which showcased merino yarns classified 15 microns and finer. Filpucci launched a new blow wool yarn range made from a new patented process to make light weight voluminous yarn. Filpucci, Sisa and Pinori blended alpaca wool yarns with various yarns for the year Zegna Baruffa has yarns from baby lama with a touch as soft as cashmere but also light and durable, as well as luxurious camel hair qualities. Italian company Indus in its 3 RD System collection of yarns based around either ceremic or silver. They are designed to offer exceptional thermal insulation at low temperatures and to generate perfect heat regulation keeping body at ideal temperature in every climate condition. Thermal insulating is an innovative yarn composed of 100% ceremic polyester which insulates from the cold.
• Dry yarn- the ultra light, high performance poly-propelene micro fibre, made by italian aquafil, with idea properties for athletes. • Advansa has launched a new thermo regulating yarn, this new yarn is a hybrid polyester fibre mix which allows the garment to adapt to the needs of the wearer providing coolin or warming functions as needed.
2008 -09
BIBLIOGRAPHY • • • TEXTILE VIEW: 2000 - 2008 WIKIPEDIA ENCARTA ENCYCLOPAEDIA TEXTILE JOURNAL GOOGLE
PRESENTED BY • • SHWETA MUZUMDAR SAI PATANKAR AMRUTA SHINGTE AKSHA THOMBARE
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