WELCOME EVERYBODY TO MY PROJECT WORK The title
WELCOME EVERYBODY TO MY PROJECT WORK The title project work is of my STUDIES ON THE VARIOUS TYPES OF FASHIONABLE LEATHER FROM GOAT SKIN MD. ABDULLAH APU Exam. Roll - 16 D. U. Reg. No-2881 Session-2002 -2003
AIM OF MY PROJECT WORK: Pre-historic people used cloth for wearing to protect the body from cold and rain. With the improvement of leather tanning process, the thinking and trend of human beings have also improved. As a result to make the leather more attractive and fashionable, restless efforts are projecting on that. Such a type of effort is multicolored fashionable effect where upbeat and upgrade technology is going to be met the modern fashion's desires. I have designed my project work as follows: (1) The leathers have to be processed as traditional garment leather. (2) First step of finishing has to be done with deep colour with knotted condition of leather. (3) Secondly, multicolors have to be imposed on that leather What is Fashion: Fashion is the representation of personality for a particular purpose to enhance or to maintain life-style.
BASIC CHARACTERISTICS OF FASHIONABLE GARMENT LEATHER A good fashionable garment leather should provide the following properties: Good light fastness Good Rub Fastness Good Strength Wash ability p. H Value aqueous Dry Clean ability
PLAN OF WORK Receiving & Storing Hides Trimming Weighing Soaking & Washing Painting
Un hairing Fleshing Pelt weight Washing Deliming Bating
Washing Pickling Chrome Tanning Basification Pile up The above process is called wet blue process
APU 01
APU 02
APU 03
Acid Wash Re-Chroming Dyeing DYEING: Dyeing is done in two steps. First before neutralization and second after Re-tanning. First time I have used very strong acid dyes for short time. Second time dyeing was done by Light colored dyes. However, Before dyeing, the samples are tightly fasten with Nylon, Cotton thread by a number of knoting keeping the flesh side out and grain side in. Putted in a dye bath and dyeing was done very short time. 150% water at 35° C 2% Acid Brown ERN- Run for 10 min. 0. 5% Formic acid -Run for 20 min. Drain and wash lightly, then open the Knotes.
NEUTRALISATION: 150% water at 45°C. 2% Neosyn BS 3 (Neutralisation syntan) Run for 30 min. add, 1. 5% Sodium Formate 1. 5% Sodium Bicarbonate. Run for 30 min. Check p. H: 6. 0 [ By B. C. G- Blue] Drain and wash well. RETANNING: 100% water at 40°C 2% Relugan RE (Anionic Polymer Tanning Agent) Run-3 Omin. add, 3. 0% Relugan D (Grain Tightening Agent) 3. 0%Tanigan. OS (Re-placement Syntan) Run for 30 min. add, 3. 0% mimosa (Vegetable Tanning Agent) 3. 0% RWP (Re-placement syntan) Run for 45 min. add, 0. 5% formic acid. Run for 30 min. Drain and Rinse.
For Somple-1 Coloured) 100% water at 50% C 2% Brown F 3 G (Acid Dye Light Run for -45 min. For sample No-2: 100% water at 50°C 2% Air Navy (Acid Dye) Run for -45 min. Check penetration. If ok add 50% water and Run for 15 min. add, 5% Trisul ML (Sulphite Stabilised light brown oil) 3% Remsol C 2 (Synthetic Fat liquoring) 5% Remsol B 40 (Semi synthetic fat) 0. 5%Lipoderm oil SK (Raw oil) Run for 40 min. add, 1. 5% formic acid. Run for 20 min. add, 0. 5% Lipamin Liquor SO Run for -30 min. add, 0. 3% Tollucide (Bactericide & Fungicide) - Run 30 min. Drain out, Rinse horse up and L/N
HANG DRY : 2 days. STA KING : Vibration Staking Machine. MILLING : 2 hours TOGGLING : Light toggling TRIMMING : Manually. PROCESS FOR FINISHING: FINISHING : Light finishing. Encrasol dye - 5 parts water - 150 Emulsion -100" Spray, 1 cross coat, Dry well.
PHYSICAL TESTING AND RESULTS: FOR THE RESULTS OF TENSILE STRENGTH AND PERCENTAGE OF ELONGATION UNDER INVESATIGATION: I Sa mpl e No. Results for Elongation Tensile strength and Vertical direction Horizontal direction Tensile Strength Kg/sq. Cm %Of Elon gati on Tensile %Of strength Elong Kg/sq. ation Cm 1 1120 56 1123 56 2 1180 55 1182 57 3 1150 58 1156 58 All sample enough well strength and 56 4 show 1150 54 tensile 1150 elongation at break for garment leathers. 5 1180 56 1186 55
THE RESULTS OF THE STITCH TEAR STRENGTH: Samp Thickness le cm No Tearing load N Stitch tearing strength N/cm 1 0. 09 13 144. 44 2 0. 06 7 116. 67 3 0. 1 14 128. 57 4 0. 06 7 116. 67 5 0. 07 9 128. 57 The results indicate that the stitch tear strength is not so good for every/ sample.
RESULTS OF DRY AND WET RUBFASTNESS TESTS: Sample wet rub fastness No Dry rub fastness 32 64 128 256 512 102 Rev. 4 Rev. 1 Leat her Felt 2 Leat her Felt 32 64 Rev. 128 256 512 102 Rev. 4 Rev. 5 5 4/5 4 5 5 4 4/5 5 5 4 4 5 5 4/5 4 5 5 5 4/5 4 4/3 5 5 5 4/5 4/5 4 5 5 5 4/5 4 5 5 5 5 4/5 4 5 5 4/5 The results indicate under investigation with gray scale that the sample leather is good for dry rub fastness but not well enough for wet rub fastness. 4 4 4
RESULT OF COLOUR FASTNESS TO WASHING (STANDARD SOAP AND DETERGENT): This test is carried out with the leather samples under investigation following the method as briefly described in 2. 4. 5 and following results are obtained: Sampl e No Standard soap Standard detergent Effect on leather Transfer of clour from leather to fabric 1 4 4 4 3 2 5 4/5 3 4/5 5/4 5 4/5 4 4 3 4/5 4 5 3 4
CONCLUSION The object of this dissertation is to produce two-tone dyeing effect for fashionable leather. To achieve two -tone dyeing effect on leather, it is consciuosly used two_distinct coloured dyes one after another by different process for every sample to get a nice outlook which is described in my manuscript. From different physical and fastness tests which are discussed before, it may be said that the main dyeing properties like levelness, solubility, build up properties do not meet both of my produced sample leathers. Thank You Every Body
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