Wear of Dynamic Ropes Giuliano Bressan CMT Commissione
Wear of Dynamic Ropes Giuliano Bressan CMT – Commissione Materiali e Tecniche CAI – Club Alpino Italiano
Tests on Rope Wear Commissione Materiali e Tecniche del Club Alpino Italiano
TABLE 1 - Tests on single ropes: Rope EDELWEISS Eldorado (10, 5 mm) Date Declared Values Reference Values Rappels and Rope Wear Use of rope in rappels Meters N. of rappels DODERO Tests N. of falls Note N. of falls Force da. N 01. 97 7 975 14 15 898 865 10 1 70 7 49049 13 14 11 14 9 10 876 896 870 888 874 “Figure of Eight” climber: 80 kg 01. 97 7 975 14 15 828 868 10 1 70 7 49049 14 15 14 17 13 15 884 880 878 890 870 862 “Robot” climber: 80 kg
Plot 1 - Tests on single ropes: F. of eight Robot Rappels and Rope Wear
Plot 2 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear Only rappels Only climb Both rappels and climb
TABLE 2 - Tests on single ropes: Artificial Wear 1 cycle = 50 m Rope Date Declared values N. of falls EDELWEISS Eldorado (10, 5 mm) Reference values Force da. N N. of falls Force da. N Artificial wear Cycle s N. of falls Note Force da. N 11. 96 7 975 10 11 894 882 50 9 7 9 862 load 38 -40 kg 874 870 3. 97 7 975 10 11 894 882 50 7 8 9 834 max temp. 47° 850 846 3. 97 7 975 10 11 894 882 100 7 6 874 max temp. 50° 856 3. 97 7 975 10 11 894 882 200 4 5 6 882 max temp. 61° 862 852 5. 97 7 975 10 11 894 882 300 6 5 6 866 load 35 -40 kg 854 max temp. 50 -60° 866
TABLE 3 - Tests on single ropes: Rope Period of use Declared values N. of falls OSELLA Jumbo Alp Joseph (11 mm) CASSIN (Beal) 1. 12. 95 30. 6. 96 5. 97 - 8. 97 1. 6. 95 3. 2. 96 Force da. N Climbing Wear Reference values N. of falls Force da. N Use Note meters N. of falls 9201 year use 924 930 / / / / / 3 2 1 4 2 944 952 944 930 978 292602 1 1 / / / 10 10 11 848 830 826 203052 2 Force da. N Rif. A) VB 804 796 804 760 Rif. B) AA NOTE: computations on June 1998
TABLE 4 - Tests on single ropes: Rope Period of use Declared values N. of falls Climbing Wear Reference values Force da. N N. of falls Force da. N Use Metri N. of falls Note Force da. N EDELWEISS 1. 6. 96 Calanques (10, 5 mm) 13. 10. 96 8 975 11 14 17 888 884 888 6157 6 4 5 932 color purple 932 red-black 914 Rif. C) OP 11. 6. 96 17. 10. 96 8 975 11 14 17 888 884 888 2900 6 4 4 4 932 color purple 910 red-black 908 900 Rif. D) SM 7. 2. 96 9. 2. 97 8 975 11 14 17 888 884 888 304342 1 2 900 color purple 914 red-black 888 Rif. E) AA NOTE: computations on June 1998
TABLE 5 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear Tests with modified Dodero (may 1999) Rope BEAL Leader (11 m. ) Period of use 5. 88 - 6. 97 EDELWEISS 1. 3. 97 - 5. 4. 98 Calanques (10, 5 mm) 25. 4. 98 - 3. 5. 98 EDELWEISS 6. 6. 98 Calanques (10, 5 mm) 13. 9. 98 3. 10. 98 5. 6. 99 NOTE: computations on Sept. 1999 Decalred values N. of falls Force da. N Reference values N. of falls Force da. N Use meters N. of falls Note Force da. N 11 880 / / 300002 3 3 864 use: 10 years 844 col. blue 848 white-black Rif. F) GB-SB 8 975 10 8 962 952 250002 1 1 958 col. purple-red 936 -black 956 Rif. G) AA 8 975 10 8 962 952 100006 5 5 956 col. purple-red 958 -black 956 Rif. H) AA 8 975 9 938 982 988 200002 962 col. red-yellow 2 972 -black 2 1012 Rif. I) AA 8 975 9 938 982 988 300002 1160 col. red-yellow 1 1001 -black 1 993 Rif. J) AA
TABLE 6 - Tests on single ropes: Rope Period of use Decalred values N. of falls Force da. N Climbing Wear Reference values N. of falls Force da. N Use meters N. of falls Note Force da. N MAMMUT XSR-18 (11, 7 mm) 1995 18 1150 / / 500 4 1118 Made in 1981 3 1134 3 1124 Rif. A 1) CZ MAMMUT Galaxy (10 mm) 1996 6 -7 900 / / 252003 980 2 1062 Rif. A 2) CZ MAMMUT Pro (10, 5 mm) 5. 94 - 6. 96 7 -9 940 / / ? NOTE: computations on June 1998 1 1 894 902 922 870 Rif. A 3) LB
Plot 3: Comparison with Schubert’s results Only rappels Only climb Both rappels and climb Artificial wear Results of Pit Schubert
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