Waves Oceanography Notes Anatomy of a Wave Wave
- Slides: 34
Waves Oceanography Notes
Anatomy of a Wave • Wave height : vertical distance between a crest and the preceding trough • Amplitude: equal to one-half the wave height (point of equilibrium surface to the crest or trough
Sine Wave Characteristics
Diagram of a Wave: Wavelength
Basic Wave Diagram http: //www. onr. navy. mil/focus/ocean/motion/waves 1. htm
Description of Periodic Motion which repeats itself precisely can be described with the following terms: Period: the time required to complete a full cycle, T in seconds/cycle Frequency: the number of cycles per second, f in 1/seconds or Hertz (Hz) Amplitude: the maximum displacement from equilibrium A
Wave Generating Forces • Sometimes waves are generated through seismic motion or rock formations (ice too) falling (like throwing a rock into the water) • There are three basic factors in generating surface waves (height)… 1. Wind speed 2. Wind duration 3. Fetch (the distance that the wind blows
Wave Motion • Waves consist of orbits that are below the sea surface
Deep Water Waves • These are classified as waves that have a depth that is at least one half of the wavelength Depth = Wavelength (L)/2 • Wave speed (C) = L/T or L = C*T C is equal to celerity (speed of one wave) versus v (speed of a group of waves)
Wave Equations • For any type of water wave, the wave's wavelength (L), speed (C) and period (T) are related by the following relations: • L = C*T • L = 1. 56 T 2 • C = g. T/2¶ • C = 1. 56 * T 1. 56 is in m/s 2
Shallow Water Waves A wave that enters water with a depth of less than one-twentieth (D < L/20) Shallow water wavelength and speed are controlled only by the water depth (meters) _____ C = √ g * D (g = 9. 81 m/s 2)
Group Speed • Waves can travel in groups (speed) • Waves move as wave trains V = C/2
Breaking Waves http: //www. weather. com/series/extreme/video/cruise-ship-gets-rocked-by-rogue-wave? pl=pl-editor-picks http: //oceanworld. tamu. edu/students/waves/index. html
http: //search. live. com/images/results. aspx? q=Tsunami+diagrams%20|%20 id: AE 878 E 4 D 465 DAB 08 43 D 7 EEC 20 BDEFFB 13 B 5905 F 7&form=IGRE 1&p 1=One. Row#focal=2 e 78 f 408 dd 2093 b 8 c 8087 b 736 bcb 8 eea&furl=http%3 A%2 F%2 Fwww. gg. uwyo. edu%2 Fmedia%2 Ftsunami%2 Fdiagrams%2 Fwave. gif
Wave Breaking Diagram http: //geology. wr. usgs. gov/parks/sea/wave. gif
Wave Steepness For a wave to break, wave steepness is important. If the ratio of wave height to wavelength is 1: 7 or more, the wave will break
Surging Breakers happen on beaches where the slope is very steep. The wave does not actually break. Instead, it rolls onto the steep beach. These kinds of breakers are known for their destructive nature Plunging Breakers happen on beaches where the slope is moderately steep. This kind of wave normally curls over forming a tunnel until the wave breaks. Expert surfers love this type of wave! Spilling Breakers occur on beaches with gentle slopes. These waves break far from the shore, and the surf gently rolls over the front of the wave. http: //www. onr. navy. mil/focus/ocean/motion/waves 2. htm
Guess The Types of Breakers
Tsunami Characteristics of a Tsunami Shallow Water Wave characteristics in deep water Large Wavelengths (kms) Fast Wave Speeds Depth less than one-half of the wavelength
Causes of Tsunami Seismic disturbance causing wave impulses
Waves and the Shoreline • Waves enter the shoreline and can exhibit the following characteristics… Refraction Reflection Diffraction
Wave Diffraction
Interferences • Constructive and Destructive Constructive Destructive
Lake Superior High Winds August 2017
- Lowest point of a wave
- Longitudinal vs transverse wave
- Mechanical waves and electromagnetic waves
- Difference between mechanical and electromagnetic waves
- What type of waves are sound waves? *
- Whats a reflected sound wave
- Carbon dioxide temperature
- Mechanical waves and electromagnetic waves similarities
- Mechanical vs electromagnetic waves
- Mechanical and electromagnetic waves similarities
- Seismic waves
- Seismic waves are mechanical waves
- Compare and contrast p waves and s waves using venn diagram
- Mechanical and electromagnetic waves
- Difference between constructive and destructive waves
- Anatomy of a wave
- Anatomy of waves graphic organizer
- Wave notes
- Chapter 15 physical oceanography
- Chapter 15 physical oceanography
- Oceanography tools
- Fnmoc
- Chapter 15 physical oceanography
- Branches of oceanography
- Why is oceanography considered an interdisciplinary science
- University of hawaii soest
- сплит institute of oceanography and fisheries
- Four main branches of oceanography
- Oceanography
- Oceanography
- Oceanography
- Chemistry oceanography
- Polynesians oceanography
- Scripps institution of oceanography
- Chemistry oceanography