Waves Definition Undulation that forms as a disturbance

Waves

Definition �Undulation that forms as a disturbance moves along the surface of the water

Anatomy of a wave �Crest- highest part of a wave �Trough- lowest part of the wave �Wave height- vertical distance between crest and trough �Wavelength-horizontal distance between adjacent crests �Period- the time a wave takes to move past a given point

Wave Facts �Water under a crest moves up and forward �Water under a trough moves down and back �Water particles move in circles as a wave passes �Waves carry energy across sea surface but do not transport water

Formation and Size of Waves �Waves form as soon as the wind blows �Faster and longer the wind blows the larger the wave gets �Size of waves generated by the wind depends on the fetch (span of water over which the wind blows) �As a wave approaches the shoreline it slows down and “piles up” becoming high and steep making them fall forward and break creating surf

Sea vs. Swell �Seas- a wave that has a sharp peak and relatively flat trough; found in the area where waves are generated by the wind �Swells- a wave with a flatter, rounded crest and trough; found away from the area where waves are generated by the wind Sea Swell

Wave Reinforcement �Wave reinforcement- when the crests of two waves collide and produce a higher wave

Wave Cancellation �When a crest and a trough of two different waves interact and cancel each other