UNDERSTANDING THE GUIDING SHEET S SUGANTHI M Sc

UNDERSTANDING THE GUIDING SHEET S. SUGANTHI M. Sc. , M. Phil. ASSISTANT PROFESSOR DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY BON SCOURS COLLEGE FOR WOMEN THANJAVUR

Understanding The Guide Sheet

Grain Line Ø Indicates the placement of pattern piece on the fabric grain. Grain line must be placed exactly parallel to the selvage. Ø Selvage is the fabric edge that will not ravel or fray. Ø Use tape measure to make sure grain line is parallel to selvage when pinning pattern in place.

Place on fold/Fold line Ø Double arrowed bracket symbol that indicates the solid line be placed on the fold of the fabric. Ø Usually seen at center front or back.

Dots, Squares, or Triangles Used to match fabric pieces together – show us what to sew together and where. They are especially helpful in areas requiring easing like sleeves. May be within garment piece to indicate placement of details like pockets or zippers.

Notches Used for matching seams and joining garment pieces. Should extend beyond the cutting line. Cut Garment

Double & Triple Notches Cut them as one long block Cut Garment

On multi-sized patterns the notches often appear as triangles. These notches should be cut out and away or with tiny snips to indicate where the notches are located.

Stitching line Broken line usually 5/8” from cutting line. Indicates where to stitch fabric pieces together § Seam allowance – distance between stitching line and cutting line. § “Stitch” on the guide sheet means the standard seam allowance of 5/8”. If it is another seam allowance it will tell you. § Will not be indicated on multi-sized patterns. Seam allowance

Darts Triangular folds of fabric used to control fullness. Fold on the solid line, stitch on the broken lines. Fold Line Stitching Line

Adjustment lines Indicates where pattern can be lengthened or shortened. Shorten or lengthen here

Additional Information Ø On each pattern piece you will find: Ø Ø Ø Number of pieces to cut Pattern piece name/number or letter Size Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Guide Sheet v. Gives you step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing the fabric pieces together. v. Main sections of the guide sheet are view selection, cutting layouts and sewing instructions. v. In the cutting layout section, you will find the “Use pieces” information to determine which pattern pieces go with which view to be constructed. v. Also included are sketches and special information.

Special instructions Sketch of garment Pieces to use for Each design Cutting Layout Sketch of Pattern pieces

Select your layout diagram based on the view you are making, your fabric width, fabric type, and size. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book Circle the layout for easy reference.

Fabric Grains Selvage – two finished edges, do not ravel or fray Lengthwise grain – runs in the same direction as the selvage, strongest threads. Crosswise grain – runs across fabric from one selvage to the other, usually has slight stretch. Bias – runs diagonally across the fabric. Has the most stretch. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Fabric Folds Lengthwise fold Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together. As fabric comes off bolt at store Fold should form cut/raw edge to cut/raw edge. “Hot Dog Fold” Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Crosswise Fold fabric in half crosswise with right sides together. Fold should be from selvage to selvage. “Hamburger Fold” Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Center/Double Fold fabric twice along the lengthwise grain, right sides together. Selvages should meet in the middle Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Partial Fold fabric on the lengthwise grain, right sides together, only wide enough to fit the widest pattern piece that is to be placed on fold. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Placement of Pattern Pieces Place the pieces on the fold or the largest pattern pieces on first. Place all pattern pieces on fabric before pinning any to fabric. Refer to pattern piece for number of fabric pieces to cut. Follow layout diagram exactly to maximize fabric use. When a pattern piece is shaded, that indicates it should be placed printed side down. Simplicity Pattern

Placement of Pattern Pieces Pattern pieces should be pinned perpendicular to the cutting edge every 6” – 8”. More pins may be required in curved areas. Cut out pieces using long, smooth strokes to avoid jagged edges. Leave pattern pieces attached to fabric until ready to sew. Transfer dots/squares and dart markings using the marking method of your choice. Simplicity Pattern

Sewing instructions Follow the sequence exactly Read the written directions. Review the pictorial directions. Refer to the special sewing information. Simplicity Pattern