The Importance of Being Earnest The Cult of

The Importance of Being Earnest The Cult of Clothing

La Belle Epoque • Lasted from 1890 -1914 and was the era of beauty and luxurious living (for a select few!) and clothing was a direct reflection of this attitude. • Fashion plates and women’s magazines gain in popularity at this time and these help speed the new conception of fashion. • Speaking of speed, we also see the birth of the fashion house and the idea that clothing should change during the year – not because of the weather, but because of fashion – keeping up! • Technological advances also help cause this speedy fashion – readymades, cheaper production techniques like power looms, the sewing machine, the spinning jenny, and other labor saving devices.

Women’s wear • In general, fashion is about mass, think tight versus loose groupings of fabric. These masses reflect the mode of a period. Throughout the 1800 s, masses of fabric moved all over the body. Hoop skirts, bustles, bum-rolls, corsets, big hats, enormous sleeves – all of these added to the silhouette of the age. • Our time, 1895 (ish), the general shape was an hourglass – tiny waist, laaaaaarge shoulders, and a bell shaped skirt. • The bodice was the most decorated part of the ensemble • The tiny waist was caused by corsetry

• Women generally wore 1 or 2 lace trimmed petticoats as well as bloomers. On top, a camisole was worn under the corset. The corset was often paired with a cover to protect it.

Camisole and blouse (aka: a shirtwaist) Lace Jabot High collar Worn alone or with bodice

Men’s Wear • Men’s clothing didn’t really change much over the 1800 s (and really up to the present day) • It’s always a combination of shirt, coat, pants in various patterns, colors, and cuts. • In the 1890 s, sack coats were very popular – it wasn’t called a sack coat because of the way it fit, it was because of the cut: the back is formed of two pieces only, cut relatively straight down, instead of being made up of four curved pieces. • Length of skirt and sleeve, number and style of pockets, collar, lapels, and the cut of the front skirt were the elements of changing style in the sack coat from 1850 to 1900. At all times in the period, sack coats were made in "close cut", "full cut", "single breasted", and "double breasted" versions. • Vests were also required wearing.

• We also see the trappings of the aesthetic movement in clothing – made popular by our boy Oscar. • Soft collar coats, velvets, looser fit, and oddly enough, breeches.