THE CHEMISTRY OF HAIR RELAXING Cosmetology II COPYRIGHT

COPYRIGHT Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. These Materials are copyrighted © and trademarked

CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXING A process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair

CHEMICAL HAIR STRUCTURE • Hair is made up of: • Protein – 90% •

HAIR ANALYSIS • Hair proteins are made of amino acids • The cortex is

DISULFIDE BONDS • Strong, chemical side bond • Cannot be broken by water

RELAXERS Thio Relaxers Hydroxide Relaxers Sodium Hydroxide

THIO RELAXERS • p. H factor of 10 and higher • Thicker which helps

HYDROXIDE RELAXERS • Active ingredient is hydroxide ion • Highly alkaline product ranging

SODIUM HYDROXIDE (NAOH) • Commonly called lye relaxers • Most common type of hair

THE BASICS OF CHEMISTRY (click on link) Image from video Copyright © Texas Education

WARNING Caution is advised as relaxers can literally dissolve or melt the hair Copyright

13 QUESTIONS? Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES Images: • Microsoft Office Clip Art: Used with permission from Microsoft.

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THE CHEMISTRY OF HAIR RELAXING Cosmetology II

COPYRIGHT Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. These Materials are copyrighted © and trademarked ™ as the property of the Texas Education Agency (TEA) and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of TEA, except under the following conditions: 1) Texas public school districts, charter schools, and Education Service Centers may reproduce and use copies of the Materials and Related Materials for the districts’ and schools’ educational use without obtaining permission from TEA. 2) Residents of the state of Texas may reproduce and use copies of the Materials and Related Materials for individual personal use only, without obtaining written permission of TEA. 3) Any portion reproduced must be reproduced in its entirety and remain unedited, unaltered and unchanged in any way. 4) No monetary charge can be made for the reproduced materials or any document containing them; however, a reasonable charge to cover only the cost of reproduction and distribution may be charged. Private entities or persons located in Texas that are not Texas public school districts, Texas Education Service Centers, or Texas charter schools or any entity, whether public or private, educational or non-educational, located outside the state of Texas MUST obtain written approval from TEA and will be required to enter into a license agreement that may involve the payment of a licensing fee or a royalty. For information contact: Office of Copyrights, Trademarks, License Agreements, and Royalties, Texas Education Agency, 1701 N. Congress Ave. , Austin, TX 78701 -1494; phone 512 -463 -7004; email: copyrights@tea. state. tx. us. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved.

CHEMICAL HAIR STRUCTURE • Hair is made up of: • Protein – 90% • Carbon – 51% • Oxygen – 21% • Hydrogen – 6% • Nitrogen – 17% • Sulfur – 5% Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved.

HAIR ANALYSIS • Hair proteins are made of amino acids • The cortex is made up of polypeptide chains • These chains are cross-linked by side bonds • Types of side bonds include: Strand of human hair at 200 x magnification • Hydrogen bonds • Salt bonds • Disulfide bonds Image from Wikimedia Commons, the free media repository Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved.

DISULFIDE BONDS • Strong, chemical side bond • Cannot be broken by water • Can be broken by chemical hair relaxers • Alters the shape of the hair Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved.

RELAXERS Thio Relaxers Hydroxide Relaxers Sodium Hydroxide

THIO RELAXERS • p. H factor of 10 and higher • Thicker which helps hold hair in a straight position • Hair softens and swells during the relaxer process and disulfide bonds are broken • A neutralizer is used to rebuild disulfide bonds Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved.

HYDROXIDE RELAXERS • Active ingredient is hydroxide ion • Highly alkaline product ranging usually from a p. H of 12 -14 • Types include: • Sodium • Potassium • Lithium • Guanidine hydroxide Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved.

SODIUM HYDROXIDE (NAOH) • Commonly called lye relaxers • Most common type of hair relaxer • Highly caustic • p. H is often over 13. 5 which is highly corrosive Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES Images: • Microsoft Office Clip Art: Used with permission from Microsoft. • Wikimedia Commons, the free media repository Textbook(s): • Halal, J. (2009). Hair structure and chemistry simplified: Exam review/John Halal. Clifton Park, NY: Milady/Cengage Learning. • Milady standard cosmetology: Situational problems. (2012). Clifton Park, NY: Cengage Learning. You. Tube™: • Basics of Chemistry Clip from the Milady Standard Cosmetology 2012 DVD Series http: //youtu. be/N 0 PVleg. Jv 8 Y Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved.