th 19 Century Apparel Production Objective 1 01

th 19 Century Apparel & Production Objective 1. 01 Apparel & Textile Production I Summer 2014 1

The Sewing Machine Before the invention of the sewing machine people had to create garments by hand. � In 1846, the first American patent was issued to Elias Howe for "a process that used thread from two different sources. " � Elias Howe's machine had a needle with an eye at the point. The needle was pushed through the cloth and created a loop on the other side; a shuttle on a track then slipped the second thread through the loop, creating what is called the lockstitch. Apparel & Textile Production I Summer 2014 2

Sewing Machine Continued… • Sewing machines did not go into mass production until the 1850's, when Isaac Singer built the first commercially successful machine. • Singer built the first sewing machine where the needle moved up and down rather than the side-to-side and the needle was powered by a foot treadle. • Previous machines were all hand-cranked. However, Isaac Singer's machine used the same lockstitch that Howe had patented. • Elias Howe sued Isaac Singer for patent infringement and won in 1854. Apparel & Textile Production I Summer 2014 3

Sewing Machine Videos ● Video 1 ● Sewing Machine Apparel & Textile Production I Summer 2014 4

Paper Patterns ● Ebenezer Butterick- changed the face of home sewing forever – Created the first graded (different sizes) paper pattern. The company he founded continues to lead the way in make-it-yourself fashions 150 years later. ● ● In the beginning, he only offered men’s and boys' patterns. In 1866 they began offering women's dress patterns. Apparel & Textile Production I Summer 2014 5

● ● Paper Pattern- The paper or cardboard template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling Before Paper Patterns, people who sewed would lay out their fabrics and then hand draw the fabric cuts they wanted to made. Ellen Butterick, wife of Ebenezer, remarked to her husband how handy it would be if she had some sort of pattern to guide her in making her fabric cuts. A pattern that was the correct size for her son. Thus paper patterns were born! Apparel & Textile Production I Summer 2014 6

● ● ● Charles Worth- a fashion designer who is widely considered the Father of Haute Couture. He is credited as the first designer to put labels onto the clothing he manufactured. Worth's designs are notable for his use of lavish fabrics and trimmings, his incorporation of elements of historic dress, and his attention to fit. Apparel & Textile Production I Summer 2014 7

● ● Ready-to-Wear; is the term for factory-made clothing, sold in finished condition, and in standardized sizes. Also called prêt-à-porter. Military uniforms were the first ready-to-wear garments to be mass-produced during the War of 1812. High-quality ready-to-wear garments for men became generally available soon thereafter. Apparel & Textile Production I Summer 2014 8

Levi Strauss We Love Jeans! Apparel & Textile Production I Summer 2014 9

Levi Strauss � Levi Strauss was the inventor of the American blue jean! � In 1997 the oldest pair of blue jeans was sold for $25, 000. � Blue jeans were originally called “Waist Overalls” � Jacob Davis added rivets to the blue jeans to help the pants from tearing. � Levi’s Blue Jeans were born on May 20, 1873 � The faded streaks on jeans are called Whiskers � In 1954 the zipper was added to Levi’s. Apparel & Textile Production I Summer 2014 10

Levi Srauss Videos/Articles ● ● ● http: //www. levistrauss. com/about/heritage http: //us. levi. com/shop/index. jsp? category. Id=1881 6896 http: //www. history. com/this-day-in-history/levistrauss-and-jacob-davis-receive-patent-for-bluejeans https: //www. youtube. com/watch? v=or. Y 4 FVCy-vc http: //www. cbsnews. com/news/the-history-woveninto-denim-jeans/ Apparel & Textile Production I Summer 2014 11