Textile Fabrics and Finishes Fabric Design and Construction

Textile Fabrics and Finishes

Fabric Design and Construction n Two forms of design u Structural Design “Building in” texture or interest during manufacturing process t Weaving and knitting most common t u Applied Design Adding color, pattern, or other features to the structural design t Printing on fabric t

Fabric Construction Methods n Weaving n Knitting Plain: crosshatch u Weft pattern u Warp u Twill: diagonal n Nonwoven wale u Fused u Satin: floating u Felted yarns u Films u

Fabric Terms n Grain – direction yarns run in the fabric Lengthwise - warp u Crosswise - weft u Diagonal - bias SELVAGE WARP u n WEFT BIAS Selvage u “Finished” weft edge of fabric CUT EDGE SELVAGE

Variations of Weaves n n n Stripes Checks Plaids Jacquard Pile fabrics u Terry cloth u Corduroy u Velvet

Knitting n n Looping yarn together Made using one yarn u u u n n Built-in stretch Wrinkle resistant Does not ravel like woven material, but may run Weft (filling) stretches in both directions Warp stretches one direction; run-proof

Nonwoven Fabrics n Compact web of fibers (not yarns) constructed using Moisture u Heat u Chemicals u Friction u Pressure u n No grain

Other Construction Methods n Laces and Nets u u n Braids u n n Decorative trims Bonded fabrics Fusible web u n Made by knotting Decorative trim Interfacing and hem tape Quilted fabrics

Fabric Finishing n Converters u n Mills that change greige goods into finished fabrics Applying colors, designs, or surface treatments u u Bleaching Dyeing Printing Finishes

Fabric finishing Applying colors, designs or surface treatments that change the look, feel, or performance of fabrics. n n n Bleaching: Chemical processes that remove natural colors, impurities, or spots from fibers. Dyeing: A method of giving color to a fiber, yarn, fabric, or garment using coloring agents called dyes. Printing: The process of adding color, pattern, or design to the surface of fabrics.

Fabric finishing n n Colorfast: Implies that the color in a fabric will not fade or change with normal expected use and care. u Two advantages are that the color will remain the same over time. Dye will not leach into other laundry. Hand: The way a fabrics feel to the touch.

Finish categories n Mechanical: Finishes that are applied mechanically rather than chemically. u u n Affect size and appearance Examples: preshrinking, glazing, embossing, brushing/napping/cutting (corduroy) Chemical: Finishes that become part of the fabric through chemical reactions with the fibers. u u Affect performance Examples: antistatic, flame retardant or resistant, stain and soil resistant (Scotchgard®), waterproof, permanent press, preshrunk (Sanforized®)

Purposes for fabric finishes n n n n Improve feel. Improve performance of fabric. To add color or design. To make water repellant. To make softer, shinier, or crisper. To make wrinkle-resistant. Add soil-release finish.

Color Characteristics n n n Color can be introduced at many stages. When color is introduced u depends on the fiber u content and the intended u end use. Dyeing methods include: u Fiber Dyed before yarn spinning u Yarn Dyed u Fabric Dyed (also called Piece dyeing) u Garment Dyed (also called Product dyeing).

Dyeing n n Fiber u Adding color to fibers before spinning into yarns Yarn u Placing yarns in dye bath before making into fabric Piece u Fabrics dyed after weaving or knitting Garment u Dyed after construction

Dyeing Solution dyeing is the process of dyeing manufactured fibers by adding dye to the liquid before the fiber is forced through the spinneret. n Fiber dyeing is the process of dyeing fibers before they are spun into yarns. n Stock dyeing is the process of adding dye to loose fibers. n

Dyeing n Yarn dyeing is a dyeing process in which yarns are first wound onto spools and than placed in a dye bath. u n Plaid and striped fabrics are constructed from dyed yarns. Piece dyeing is the process of adding dye after the fabric has been made. It is the most common method of dyeing.

Yarn Dyeing Spools of yarn are dyed one color in a large vat, then mixed with other spools to form striped and plaid fabric.

Piece Dyeing Entire rolls of fabric are dyed a uniform color with piece dying.

Printing n n Adding color, pattern, or design to surface of fabric Overall prints u Same across fabric Directional prints u Specific direction to pattern Plaids u Even - same in warp and weft u Uneven - different in warp or weft

Printing Methods n Roller u n Applies color design by roller Screen n Heat Transfer u Design on printed paper transferred to fabric by heat and pressure Similar to stenciling n Digital n Rotary Screen u Computer method uses ink-jet printing u Applies color design by cylinder- n Flocking shaped nylon u Fibers attached by screens patterned glue u

Printing Fabrics n n n Printing is another way to color fabrics. In printed fabrics, one side appears lighter. Three common fabric printing methods are: u roller printing u rotary screen printing u block printing

Printing Fabrics Roller printing (direct printing) transfers color to a fabric as it passes between a series of rollers. n In rotary screen printing, dye is applied to a fabric through a cylindershaped screen, one color at the time. n Roller printing, however, accounts for the majority of fabrics printed. n

Roller Printing In roller printing, each engraved cylinder rolls over the fabric, imposing a multicolored design.

Printing Fabrics n Block printing: is a method of hand printing fabric by stamping a pattern with a dye-covered block. t is the oldest technique for decorating textiles. t is seldom done commercially because it is costly and timeconsuming.

Printing Color n Printing methods include: u Direct Dyeing (directly adds color to the fabric in the pattern desired by a stamp or roller) u Discharge Printing (where the fabric is dyed, then a chemical is used to remove color) u Resist Printing (when color is prevented from entering a piece of fabric such as batik, tie-dye, or screen printing)

Printing Color n Printing methods include: u Stencil Printing (is when a design is cut from thin metal sheets) u Jet Printing (which uses a continuous stream of dye that is forced through jets to color the fibers. u Burn outs u Laser u Space dyeds

Colorfastness refers to the durability and performance of the fabric color. n Ways that color may be changed or destroyed are: n Crocking (the rubbing of color from fabric). u Bleeding (fading or loss of color in water). u Migration (when color shifts from one area of a printed fabric to another). u Frosting (localized change or loss in color caused by abrasion during wear or cleaning). u Fading (loss of color by sunlight, perspiration, washing, or bleaching). u

Colorfast Tests n n To determine if crocking will occur use a white cloth or white paper towel and rub lightly to see if the color rubs off. This test can be done with a dry cloth and a wet cloth. Placing fabric in a bowl of water and using varying temperatures will tell you if the fabric is colorfast to water. To test if migrating will occur placing a printed fabric in a bowl of water at varying temperatures will tell you in the color will transfer to other parts of the fabric. To see if a garment is faded check the shoulders of garments in retail stores to see if any color has been lost.

FABRIC FINISHES n n A fabric finish is any treatment to the fiber, yarn, or fabric which changes the appearance and behavior of the fabric. The purpose of a finish is: n to increase the aesthetic value either by appearance, hand, or drape; and n to increase the functional value or its serviceability.

Fabric Finishes All fabrics receive one or more finishes during or after fabric construction. n Most finishes are applied to add certain characteristics to the fabric, such as: u resisting wrinkles and stains u reducing shrinkage u retarding flames u preventing static buildup n

Fabric Finishes A protective fabric finish is being applied in a high-speed, heat-activated process.

Fabric Finishes Antistatic Fabric finishes- prevent fabrics from clinging together. n Flammable Fabrics Act- Requires Children’s sleepwear to be fire retardant. n Fabric finishes u Make garments more useful and beautiful. u Improve appearance, texture, and performance of a garment. u Applied to the surface of a fabric. n

Fabric Finishes Fabric finishes may be: u Temporary – these type of finishes will last only until the first washing or dry cleaning. u Durable – these finishes will last through several washings or dry cleanings. u Permanent – these type of finishes will last the life of the fabric.

Types of Finishes These are a few of the most common finishes, the hangtag or garment label should tell you if the fabric has been finished. u u u u Abrasion Resistant Absorbent Anti-Bacterial Anti-Static Calendering Crease-Resistant Fire. Resistant/Retardant Fire-Proof Permanent Press/ u Durable Press u. Sanforizing u. Soil Release u. Spot and Stain-Resistant u. Water Repellent u. Waterproof u

Finishes Types of Finishes: n Emerising is a process by which garments are passed through rollers to soften the fabric n Microsanding u This is done by use of special machines and does not involve chemicals u Makes the fabric smoother. n Peaching u This refers to a stronger process of brushing the fabric using fine wire brushes u This finish is widely used on outdoor cargos. u Makes the fabric softer.

Washes n n n Finished garments treated with catalysts to get the required effect. Garments which are 100% Cotton or Cotton blends are washed for various reasons. Normally only Semiformal/casual garments are washed.

Washes Garments are washed for the following reasons: u To influence physical properties like u Softness/handle u Drape u Absorbency u Creasing u To create shrinkage and effects of shrinkage (pucker) u To influence appearance of fabric by changing the color or luster/ fashion purposes

Types of Washes n n n Softener Wash u This is the simplest type of wash. This wash does not use enzymes and is not harsh on the garment. u Corduroys are washed using this type of wash Stone wash: u Used on trousers to get the faded look. Garments are actually washed with stones in the washers in the presence of special enzymes Enzyme wash

Types of Washes n n Feather wash: u This is an Enzyme wash to get softer feeling trousers. Used on twill trousers. Gives a slightly faded look. Sand wash Acid wash: u Used widely on denims Other types of washes: Golf ball wash, pumice wash etc.

Special Treatments Wrinkle Free u 100% cotton trousers which are given a special chemical treatment. u The Tencel-cotton range from Allen Solly is also wrinkle free u Such trousers feel softer, have enhanced breathability, do not shrink or wrinkle. u Perfect for business meetings and travel

Special Treatments n n Anti bacterial: u These garments are given a special bacteriostatic finish which prevents bacterial growth. u Hence garments do not catch body odor and are always fresh u This treatment is only done abroad. (imported fabric is used in our range) Anti Static – to avoid static charges

Special Treatments n n Stain resistance: u Special chemical treatment given to trousers as a result of which liquids are not absorbed by the fabric. u This treatment is done on polyester blends u These garments do not crease easily u Perfect for party wear and travel. Stain release u This garment stains but releases the stain on washing with plain water.

Standards n Quality u n Rate textiles according to levels of defects Performance u Rate textiles for specific end-use suitability

The Textile n Specialized companies Industry n n n perform stages of the textile segment of the chain Technology necessary u CAD/CAM Fashion u Tracking designs, trends, forecasts Marketing u Planning, pricing, promoting, distributing

Selling Finished Fabrics n Staple fabrics u n Novelty fabrics u n Sold each year with little or no change in construction Fashion fabrics that change with style trends Overruns u When a mill makes more fabric than was ordered by customers

Trade Information n American Textile Manufacturers Institute, Inc. (ATMI) u Industry-wide marketing, government relations, trade policies American Printed Fabrics Council, Inc. (APFC) u Printing achievements American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) u Wet processing aspects

Future of Textiles n n Continued U. S. innovation Stay internationally competitive u Update plants u Continued automation u Flexibility and versatility for shorter production runs of different fabrics Increased knit production Textile firms need more sophisticated marketing techniques

Do You Know. . . n n A finishing term that ends in “proof” means complete protection (as in waterproof). Hand is the term used for textiles that refers to the way fabrics feel to the touch. Hand may apply to drape, softness, firmness, crispness, or elasticity.