Tailoring History of Tailoring Reconstructing the human body

Tailoring

History of Tailoring: Reconstructing the human body in fabric • Greek & Roman ages people draped fabric over their bodies • Middle ages: clothing was a means to conceal the body – Loose robe was shortened and tightened & eventually cut pieced and sewn together to contour to human form – Birth of tailoring • Renaissance: clothing a means to accent the body • Tailoring grew among the aristocrats of Europe and peaked during Louis XIV (16431715)

History of Tailoring Cont… • In the 18 th century English moved away from French style (highly decorated) to a more practical style – Somber & serious style – Distinctions between royalty and commoners disappeared by 19 th century – Modern Tailoring born in the Industrial revolution that emphasized practicality, functionality, and fit • Today there is still a need for unique and individually designed clothing

Definition of Tailoring • A process by which the garment design lines are defined and the garment is given a permanent shape and structure of its own. • Design lines such as collars and lapels are defined by sharp edges and all the lines within the garment should be smoothly curved or perfectly straight.

Types of Tailoring • Traditional- hand sewing • Contemporary- techniques that incorporate new materials like fusibles or replacement of hand stitching with machine stitching. • Custom Tailoring- making a garment for a specific individual

Types of Tailored Garments • Hard Tailored Garment: – – Stiff fabric Very crisp Formed details Built in shaping • Soft Tailored Garments: – – – Soft fabrics Subtle shaping Not as rigid Details are crisp More feminine

Tailoring Concepts 1. Compatibility • • • 2. 3. Design with wearer Money with time Garment with ability Fitting: all patterns need adjusting to your size Stabilizing: keeping fabric from stretching and changing shape. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 4. Underlining- sewn as one with fabric Interfacing-stabilizes Cotton tape- stabilizes seams Interlining- for warmth. Fabric is placed between lining and outside like batting. Lining- allows garments to be put on easier Shaping patterns into 3 -D: shaping is cutting fabric putting two pieces together and steaming & pressing them.

Tailoring Concepts Cont… 5. Reducing Bulk • • Trimming: cutting a seam at the same width- trimming both seam allowances together Beveling edges: cutting the seam allowances inside faced edges by angling the shears; this rounds the seam edges Clipping: the process of slitting seam allowances up to the seam on curves. Better than notches because notches weaken the seam. Grading: cutting the seam allowances at different widths to reduce bulk Pressing & steaming: putting pressure and steam on fabric with an iron to form a sharp edge or flat seam Pounding: used for shaping wool Under stitching: a row of stitching placed close to the edge of any facing; done before grading and beveling Top stitching: stitching on the right side of the fabric in rows of decorative stitching

Garment Life Expectancy • • Swimsuits 2 years Wool Blazer 4 years Underwear 1 year Cotton Suits 2 years Uniforms 1 year Dresses 5 years High fashion evening wear 3 years or less

Price vs. Perceived Quality • Price greater than perceived quality (overpriced) • Price less than perceived quality (under priced) • Coat worn 50 times = $4 per wear $200(price) • Dress worn 3 times $50 per wear $150 (price) • Jeans worn 300 times $. 17 per wear $50 (price)