STYLE AND DRESS HAIR ALPHA AND BETA KERATIN

POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS • Within the hair cortex there a number of polypeptide chains that run along the length of the hair. • The polypeptide chains have crosslinkages that join them to other polypeptide chains.

HYDROGEN BONDS • Hydrogen bonds are one of the temporary cross-linkages between polypeptide chains that enable us to set the hair. • Breaking the temporary cross-linkages enables the hair to be set so that it becomes either curlier or straighter.

HYDROGEN BONDS • The hydrogen bonds not only join neighbouring polypeptide chains but they are also linked within the same polypeptide chain.

HAIR IN ITS UNSTRETCHED STATE • Before the hair is shampooed, the hydrogen bonds hold the polypeptide chains close together. Hair in this natural unstretched state is called alpha keratin.

WATER WILL BREAK THE HYDROGEN BONDS • Once the hair has been shampooed, many of the hydrogen bonds are broken. This allows the hair to be stretched around a roller or brush (if blowdrying).

HAIR IN ITS NEW SHAPE • Once the hair has been stretched, fully dried and allowed to cool into the new shape, the hair is said to be in beta keratin. When the hair is in beta keratin, the hydrogen bonds have been reformed into the new shape.

HAIR ABSORBS MOISTURE • The hair is hygroscopic. This means it has the ability to absorb moisture from the atmosphere. • This may be from: • • a rainy day; even with an umbrella as the air is damp a foggy day steam from a hot bath or shower steam from cooking.

TIPS FOR STYLING HAIR • When styling hair, remember: • The hair must be dried fully and allowed to cool before brushing and styling as if the hair is still warm, some of the new shape may be lost during brushing/finishing. • Styling and finishing products will help to protect the hair from humidity and prolong the life of the styling.

TIPS FOR DRESSING HAIR • When dressing hair, remember: • Back-combing and back-brushing the hair will create volume by raising the cuticles. • But the cuticles may become damaged if your technique is incorrect or you are using poor quality tools.