Stitching by Machine Part 4 1 Stitching Lengths

Stitching by Machine Part 4 1

Stitching Lengths o Basting n n o Standard n n o Temporarily holds Very long, 6 stitches per inch Permanent seams 10 – 12 stitches per inch Reinforcement n n Add strength to areas Very short stitch ( 15 – 20 per inch) 2

Types of Machine Stitching o Stay-stitching n n o Prevents stretching as you handle fabric Placed on bias and curved edges Directional stitching n n Prevents seam from stretching or changing as you stitch Stitch with the grain 3

o o Standard seam stitching 5/8 of an inch n o Almost all patterns Backstitching n n Secures ends of a row of stitching Stitch back and then forward again 4

o Understitching n n n o Keeps facing from rolling out 1/8 inch On right side of fabric, see figure 12 -5 page 503 Topstitching n n n Decorative and functional Outlines seams, secures facing, holds hems See Figure 12. 6 Page 503 5

o Edge stitching n n n o Holds fabric and seams in place Topstitching very close to finished edge Zippers and neck edges figure 12. 8 Stitch-in-the-ditch n n n Holds two or more layers together Secure neckline, armhole, etc On the outside in the groove of the seam line 12 -9 6

o Zigzag stitching n n o o Used to finish seams, buttonholes, attach cording Decorative designs 12 -10 Specialty stitches Decorative 7

Before You Sew o o o o Practice sewing on scrap material Is the stitch length correct? Are stitches correct width? Is the tension right? Needle smooth and straight? Presser foot firm and tight? Handwheel tightened after winding the bobbin? 8

Unit Construction o o Unit construction – complete individual parts as fully as possible before sewing them together Complete stay stitching etc 9

Removing Stitches o o Mistakes happen Remove with seam ripper, thread clippers or small scissors 10

Hand Sewing o o o Thread a needle Usually single thread Make a knot as shown on page 506 figure 13. 1 11

Types of Hand Stitching o Basting stitch n n o o Temporary stitching that marks or holds pieces together Removed when permanent stitching is done Two types Uneven (13 -3) and even (13 -2) 12

o Running stitch n n n o Simplest Gather, ease, tuck, quilt Use where little or no strain See figure 13. 4 Page 507 Backstitch n n Strongest hand stitch Repair machine stitch seams and fasten thread ends (13 -5) 13

o Pick stitch n n o Variation of the backstitch Used to insert zippers (13 -6) Slip stitch n n n almost invisible Can attach one folded edge to another Patch pockets, hems, linings, etc (13 -7) 14

o Over cast n n o Prevents raw edges from unraveling Diagonal stitches over edge of fabric (138) Hemming stitch n n Slanted stitch Finishing stitch (13 -9) 15

o Blind stitch (13 -10) n n o Barely visible from garment’s right side Hemming and holding facings down Catch stitch (1311) n n Criss-cross stitch holds two layers together flexible 16

o Cross-stitch (13 -3) n n o Decorative stitch Center back of pleat jacket Buttonhole stitch (13 -14) n n n Handworked buttonholes Attaching hooks and eyes Decorative finish 17

o Blanket stitch (13 -16) n n o Thread loops, eyes and belt carriers Decorative finish Chain stitch (13 -19) n n Forms thread loops, eyes and carriers Double thread to form a series of loops 18

Pressing Fabric o o o Press (raising and lowering iron )rather than iron (slides back and forth) Use correct temperature setting Always test your fabric to see reaction Press on wrong side whenever possible When pressing on right side, always use a press cloth 19

o o Never press over pins Always press seams and darts before other seams are stitched across them Press directionally with the grain Press seams flat before you press them open 20

o o o Press curved areas over a curved surface n Tailor’s ham Prevent press marks on right side, slip pieces of paper under the edges of the seam Check the fit of the garment before you press sharp creases, pleats 21

o Don’t over press n n When pressing an entire garment Start with small areas first o n Collars, cuffs, yokes Later press large flat areas 22

Pressing Techniques o o o Flat areas Place garment on ironing board with both seam allowances to one side Open the fabric and place over board 23

o Curved areas n n n Darts, curved seams (tailor’s ham) Press darts and seams flat to blend stitches Place fabric wrong side up on tailor’s ham 24

o Enclosed Seams n n Press seam flat Press seam open Turn right side out, gently push out corner or point Press garment section flat on ironing board 25

o Gathered areas n n n Press seam allowances together flat Slip garment over end of ironing board Press direction up into the gathers with the point of the iron 26

o Shrinking in Fullness n n n Hold the iron above the fabric to allow steam to penetrate before pressure Use your fingers to pat out any folds Press edge of the fabric to shrink in fullness 27

Final Pressing o o o While constructing garment Light pressure will remove wrinkles Light touch up at end 28

Making Darts o o Fold the dart with right sides together matching stitching lines Stitch from the wide end to the point Stitch the last two stitches as close to the fold line as possible Tie thread ends 29

Pressing Darts o o Always press dart before crossing it with another seam Page 514 figure 15 -4 30

Gathering and Easing Fabric o o o Adjust stitch length to 6 – 8 stitches Stitch the first row of basting next to the seam line Leave threads long Stitch second row ¼ inch away and leave thread long See page 516 figure 16 -1, 16 -2, 16 -3 31

o o o Pin the fabric edges matching, notches, seams, etc Pull up both bobbin thread from one end Gently slide the fabric along the stitching Wrap ends around a pin Distribute gathers evenly and pin Stitch with standard stitching along stitch lines 32

o o Shirring is formed by several rows of gathers See page 518 figure 16 -5 Easing most often used at shoulder seams See page 518 figure 16 -7 33

Sewing Plain Seams o o o o Stay-stitch any bias or curved areas Pin baste fabric layers together Raise the needle and take up lever Position fabric under needle Lower presser foot Backstitch for ½ inch and then forward Stitch forward slowly and evenly 34

o o Clip threads at the seam end and beginning Finish the seam edges if necessary 35

o o o Turning a corner Stitch to within 5/8 inch stop with needle in fabric Lift presser foot Turn fabric Lower presser foot and continue 36

Turning a Sharp Point o o Take one or two diagonal stitches across the corner Raise presser foot, leave in needle and stitch diagonal 37

Reinforcing o o Reinforcement stitches on side of each point Prevent fabric yarns from pulling out 38

Special Seam Treatments o o o Trimming Seam allowance in cut to ¼ inch (evenly) Grading Trim each layer of the seam allowance to a different width (reduces bulk) Clipping On curved seams, making tiny clips or snips (1/4 to ½ inch) 39

o o Notching Curved seams with too much fabric After being trimmed or graded Cutting out tiny wedges no more than 1/8 to seam line 40

Apply Facings o o o Facing is turned to inside for a smooth finish Three basic facings: Shaped n o Extended n o Shape is the same as the area to be covered Is an extension of the garment pattern piece Bias n Strip of bias fabric stitched to garment 41

Applying Fasteners o Hooks and eyes n n o o o Many sizes and types Page 530 figure 20 -1 Snaps Hold overlapping edges together See page 531 figure 20 -4 42

o Hook and Loop Tape n n n o Special nylon tape fastener Comes in strips or precut Page 531 figure 20 -5 Buttonholes and buttons n n Collars, cuffs, etc Page 532 43

Buttonhole types o Machine-stitched buttonholes n o Handstitched n o Zigzag stitch Lightweight or loosely woven fabrics Bound buttonholes n n Strips of fabric for the opening Buttonholes are made in garment before facing is attached 44

Buttonhole Placement o Horizontal n o Page 532 figure 20 -8 Vertical n page 532 figure 20 -9 45

Machine stitched buttonholes o o o Start on a scrap of fabric 1. Mark location of buttonhole on right side of fabric 2. stitch the buttonhole 3. place a pin across each end of buttonhole to prevent cutting through stitching 4. cut hole opening using small scissors 46

Button Placement o o 1. overlap fabric edges with buttonhole on top 2. place a pin through the buttonhole 3. Slip the buttonhole over the head of each pin and separate the garment sections Page 533 figure 20 -11, 20 -12 47

Attaching Sew-through Buttons o o o 1. using small backstitches, secure a double thread at the button marking 2. place toothpick, heavy, pin on top of button 3. bring the needle up and through one hole, over the toothpick and down through the second hole 4. remove the toothpick and pull the button to the top of the thread loop 5. wind the thread tightly around the stitches under the button to form the shank Page 534 figure 20 -14, 20 -15, 20 -16 48

Zippers o o Check the zipper package Staystitch any curved or bias area If seam allowance is less than 5/8 inch use seam tape Check the pattern guide to see whether zipper should be stitched before or after facing 49

o o Check the length of the zipper opening To shorten a zipper; machine zigzag across coils to form new stop Stitch garment seam below zipper marking Prepare zipper opening, machine bast it closed 50

Applying a Zipper o o o o o Centered Zipper Machine baste seam and press open Place zipper face down Spread garment flat and right side up Begin stitching at lower end on the right side Begin again at the lower end Pull thread ends through Remove basting Page 535 figure 21 -1 51

Lapped and Fly front Application o o o Machine base Open zipper Machine stitch through zipper tape Close zipper and turn it face up Machine stitch close to fold Page 536 figure 21 -3 52

Invisible Zippers o o Looks like a plain seam from the outside Applied before rest of seam is stitched 53

Hems o Skirt and dresses n n n o Pants n o Fold fabric edge under and pin Jackets n o Use a yardstick or skirt marker Keep marker at right angle to the floor. Pin every 3 to 4 inches Fold fabric under along hemline and mark and pin Sleeves n n Ben arm to the hand is in center of waistline Fold sleeve edge under and pin 54

Eliminating Hem Fullness o o o Machine baste ¼ inch from hem’s upper edge Turnhem up and pin at each seam and center use pin to pick up stitch of bobbin thread Gently pull the thread toward seam to ease extra fabric Press hem allowance Page 538 figure 22 -3 55

Finishing Hem Edge o o o Machine zigzag finish Seam tape Pinked finish 56