STITCH LENGTHS BY MISS PAYNE STITCH LENGTH TYPES

STITCH LENGTHS BY MISS PAYNE

STITCH LENGTH TYPES 1. REGULATION STITCH 2. STAY STITCHING 3. BASTING 4. EASE STITCHING 5. REINFORCEMENT STITCHING

STITCHES PER INCH - SPI 24 MM = 1 INCH 6 MM = 4 SPI 5 MM = 4. 8 SPI 4 MM = 6 SPI 3 MM = 8 SPI 2 MM = 12 SPI 1 MM = 24 SPI

REGULATION STITCHING: • MOST COMMON STITCH • MOST OFTEN USED ON SEAMLINES • 2 OR MORE LAYERS • 10 – 14 SPI OR 2. 5 MM • USED EVERYWHERE ON GARMENT • 90% OF SEWING IS DONE WITH A REGUALATION STITCH!

STAYSTITCHING: • A ROW OF STITCHING TO PREVENT STRETCHING DURING CONSTRUCTION • USE REGULATION STITCH LENGTH • SEWN WIDE TO NARROW! • USED ON CURVES AND ANGLES • SEWN 1/8 TH INCH AWAY FROM THE SEAM INTO THE SEAM ALLOWANCE • SEWN ON ONE LAYER • PREPARATORY STEP – 1 ST STEP IS STAYSTITCHING

MACHINE BASTING: • LARGE TEMPORARY STITCHES • DISTANCE SEWN FROM THE SEAMLINE DEPENDS ON THE PROJECT • 6– 8 SPI OR 3– 4 MM STITCH LENGTH • MOSTLY USED FOR FITTING AND GATHERING

EASE STITCHING: • USED ON AN EDGE THAT IS SLIGHTLY LONGER THAN ITS MATCH (ETC. SHOULDER SEAMS AND SLEEVES) • CONDENSES THREADS TO CREATE SHAPE WITHOUT TUCKS OR GATHERS • USED ON 1 LAYER OF FABRIC • SEWN AT 1/8 TH SMALLER THAN SEAM ALLOWANCE • 8– 10 SPI OR 2. 4– 3 MM STITCH LENGTH

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING: • TWO PURPOSES – (1) TO STRENGTHEN SEAM WHERE YOU CLIP TO SEAMLINE • SEWN A THREADS WIDTH AWAY FROM SEAMLINE INTO THE SEAM ALLOWANCE • ONE LAYER OF FABRIC • 20 – 24 SPI OR 1 MM STITCH LENGTH • PREPARATORY STEP WHERE YOU HAVE TO DO A DEEP SLASH

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING • SECOND PURPOSE: (2) TWO ROWS OF STITCHING IN AREA OF HIGH STRESS AND SEAM THAT STANDS UP • SEWN A ¼” AWAY INTO SEAM ALLOWANCE • TRIM TO 3/8” • FINISH SEAM EDGE • AREAS TO BE REINFORCED INCLUDE THE CROTCH SEAM AND UNDERARM SEAM