Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC

Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC Test Method 124 -2018 t This test method and its accompanying 3 -dimensional smoothness appearance replica set were developed for evaluation of woven fabrics with a durable-press finish.

PURPOSE • To determine the smoothness appearance of fabrics after being subjected to home laundering procedures. • Any washable fabric (woven, knitted or nonwoven) may be evaluated using this procedure.

PRINCIPLE • Fabric specimens are subjected to standard home laundering practices. • Evaluation is performed in a standard viewing area by comparing the laundered specimens with the AATCC 3 -D Smoothness Appearance Replicas.

TERMINOLOGY Smoothness Appearance: The visual impression of planarity of a specimen quantified by comparison with a set of reference standards. Laundering Creases: Sharp folds or lines running in any direction in a laundered or dried specimen. Durable Press Having the ability to retain substantially the initial shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases and unwrinkled appearance During use and after laundering or drycleaning.

EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS • Steam or dry iron • Standard washing machine • Standard tumble dryer or facilities for drip, screen or line drying • Wash tub, 9. 5 L (hand washing) • White towels (hand washing) • 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent • Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type 3

EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS • Conditioning facilities and conditioning/drying racks • Evaluation area • AATCC 3 -D Smoothness Appearance Replicas • Scale (10 lb. or 5 kg capacity) • Digital Imaging System (optional)

TEST SPECIMENS • Three test specimens 15 x 15 in. (380 x 380 mm. ) • Indicate lengthwise direction • If possible, specimens should contain different groups of lengthwise and widthwise yarns • Wrinkled fabric may be smoothed by ironing

WASHING AND DRYING CONDITIONS Washing Procedures • Hand • Machine - Normal - Delicate - Permanent Press Drying Procedures • Tumble - Normal - Delicate - Permanent Press • Line/Hang Dry • Drip • Screen/Dry Flat

WASHING TEMPERATURES Cold: 27 ± 3 °C (80 ± 5°F) Warm: 41 ± 3°C (105 ± 5°F) Hot: 49 ± 3°C (120 ± 5°F) Very Hot: 60 ± 3°C (140 ± 5°)

BALLAST CLOTH (36. 0 in. x 36. 0 in) Type 1: 100% Cotton Type 3: 50/50 Poly/Cotton

PROCEDURE Select washing conditions and settings Load consists of test specimens and ballast to make a 4. 0 lb. (1. 8 kg) load Fill machine to specified water level, add 66 ± 1 g of 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent & agitate Stop agitation, add specimens and ballast; wash using selected conditions Select drying conditions and dry specimens and ballast

DRYING METHODS Tumble Line Drip Screen

TABLE II ─ STANDARD HAND WASHING AND RINSING TEMPERATURES Wash Temp, Designation Very Cold Warm Hot ◦C (◦F) 16 3 (60 5) 27 3 (80 5) 41 3 (105 5) 49 3 (120 5) Rinse Temp, ◦C (◦F) 18 ( 65) 29 ( 85)

HAND WASHING PROCEDURE -Select washing temperature -Add 8. 6 1/9 L (2. 0 0. 5 gal) of water to wash tub -Add 20 1 g of AATCC 1993 Std. Detergent to wash tub -Agitate by hand to dissolve detergent -Add specimens and gently squeeze -Soak specimens for 2 min. -Gently squeeze specimens in detergent solution for 1 min. -Repeat 2 min. soak and 1 min. squeeze -Remove specimens; gently squeeze

HAND WASHING PROCEDURE (cont’d) -Place specimens on clean white towel -Empty and rinse wash tub -Add 8. 6 1/9 L (2. 0 0. 5 gal) clean water -Placed washed specimens in water and gently squeeze -Soak for 2 min. ; squeeze specimens for 1 min. -Repeat 2 min. soak and 1 min. squeeze -Remove specimens and gently squeeze to remove excess water -Use clean white towels, blot water from specimens -Proceed to drying procedure

TUMBLE DRY PLACE test specimens and ballast in tumble dryer SELECT drying temperature TUMBLE until load is dry

LINE/HANG DRY Hang specimen by two corners; length in the vertical direction Allow to dry in still air at room temperature not greater than 26 °C (78 °F)

DRIP DRY ● Hang dripping wet fabric by two corners; length in the vertical direction ● Allow to dry in still air at room temperature not greater than 26 °C (78 °F)

SCREEN/FLAT DRY Spread specimen on a horizontal screen, remove wrinkles without stretching fabric Allow to dry in still air at room temperature not greater than 26 °C (78 °F)

NUMBER OF CYCLES Repeat the selected washing and drying procedures for a total of five complete cycles or an agreed number of cycles

CONDITIONING • Condition specimens prior to evaluation – ASTM D 1776, Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles, Table 1 for Textiles, general; temperature 20 ± 2 °C (68 ± 4ºF) and 65 ± 5 % RH – Condition time as indicated in Table 2 (animal fibers – wool and cashmere min. 8 hours, vegetable fibers – cotton and flax min. 6 hours) – Lay each test specimen flat on a screen or perforated shelf of a conditioning/drying rack

EVALUATION • Three trained observers should rate each test specimen independently • Overhead fluorescent light should be the only light source for the viewing area • Observer stands directly in front of the specimen 1219 ± 25 mm (48 ± 1. 0 in. ) from the viewing board

EVALUATION (cont’d) • Mount test specimen with fabric length in vertical direction with center 5. 0 ft. from the floor • Place most similar 3 -D Replicas on each side of the test specimen

VIEWING AREA 96 in. 93 ± 1 in. 60 ± 1 in. FRONT

EVALUATION Assign the numerical grade of the replica which most nearly matches the smoothness appearance of the test specimen. You may assign a grade midway between those whole-number standards which have no half-number standard separating them.

EVALUATION (cont’d) When the grade of a dryer creased specimen differs from the other specimens by more than one grade, the test should be repeated with new specimens.

REPORT Average the 9 observations (3 test specimens and 3 observers) Report to the nearest 0. 1 of a grade

REPORT for each sample tested 1. Description of sample 2. AATCC Test Method 124 -2018 t 3. Number of specimens tested 4. Type of ballast 5. Standard detergent used 6. Number of laundering cycles 7. Laundering conditions 8. Number of observers 9. Any modifications to test 10. Average SA grade

EXCESSIVE FRAYING pinked If excessive fraying occurs in laundering slashed edges should be: stitched

DISTORTED EDGES If edges of laundered specimens appear distorted, clip as necessary.

Seam Smoothness in Fabrics After Home Laundering AATCC Test Method 88 B-2018 t This test method and its accompanying photographic scales were developed for evaluation of woven fabrics with a durable-press finish.

PURPOSE To evaluate the smoothness appearance of seams in fabrics after subjected to home laundering procedures

SEAMS Techniques for seaming are not outlined since the purpose is to evaluate fabrics as they will be supplied from manufacturing or as ready for use

EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS • Steam or dry iron • Standard washing machine • Standard tumble dryer or facilities for drip, screen or line drying • Wash tub, 9. 5 L (hand washing) • White towels (hand washing) • 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent • Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type 3

EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS • Conditioning facilities and conditioning/drying racks • Evaluation area • Scale (10 lb. or 5 kg capacity)

EVALUATION STANDARD AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Scales for single and double-needle seams

TEST SPECIMENS • Three 380 x 380 mm (15 x 15 in. ) fabric specimens cut parallel to the fabric length and width • Specimens are prepared so that seams run through the middle of each specimen

PROCEDURE • Same washing and drying procedures as Test Method 124 • Test specimens subjected to five complete laundering cycles

CONDITIONING • Condition specimens prior to evaluation – ASTM D 1776, Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles, Table 1 for Textiles, general; temperature 20 ± 2 °C (68 ± 4ºF) and 65 ± 5 % RH – Condition time as indicated in Table 2 (animal fibers – wool and cashmere min. 8 hours, vegetable fibers – cotton and flax min. 6 hours) – Lay each test specimen flat on a screen or perforated shelf of a conditioning/drying rack

EVALUATION Three trained observers should rate each test specimen independently. Place the appropriate single- or doubleneedle seam scale beside the specimen. Mount test specimen with the seam in the vertical direction.

EVALUATION (cont’d) • Confine observation to the area influenced by the seam and disregard the appearance of the surrounding fabric • Assign the numerical grade which most nearly matches the appearance of the seam in the test specimen • Grade 5 - smoothest seam Grade 1 - most puckered

VIEWING AREA 96 in. 93 ± 1 in. 60 ± 1 in. FRONT

REPORT Average the 9 observations (3 test specimens and 3 observers) Report to the nearest 0. 1 of a grade

REPORT for each sample tested 1. Description of sample 2. AATCC Test Method 88 B-2018 t 3. Number of specimens tested 4. Type of ballast 5. Standard detergent used 6. Number of laundering cycles 7. Laundering conditions 8. Number of observers 9. Seam Smoothness Scale used 10. Any modifications to test 11. Average Seam Smoothness grade

Crease Retention in Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC Test Method 88 C-2018 t This test method and its accompanying 3 -dimensional crease replica set were developed for evaluation of woven fabrics with a durable-press finish.

Purpose For evaluating the retention of pressedin creases in fabrics after being subjected to home laundering procedures.

Crease Retention The visual impression of an inserted crease quantified by comparison with a set of reference standards.

EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS • Steam or dry iron • Standard washing machine • Standard tumble dryer or facilities for drip, screen or line drying • Wash tub, 9. 5 L (hand washing) • White towels (hand washing) • 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent • Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type 3

EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS • Conditioning facilities and conditioning/drying racks • Evaluation area • Scale (10 lb. or 5 kg capacity) • AATCC 3 -Dimensional Crease Replicas

Additional Apparatus Incandescent flood lamp - 500 -watts, 120 V, C 9 filament with reflector and light shield

Test Specimens • Three 380 x 380 mm (15 x 15 in. ) fabric specimens cut parallel to the fabric length and width • Press a crease through the middle of each specimen in the fabric length direction

PROCEDURE • Same washing and drying procedures as Test Method 124 • Test specimens subjected to five laundering cycles

CONDITIONING • Condition specimens prior to evaluation – ASTM D 1776, Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles, Table 1 for Textiles, general; temperature 20 ± 2 °C (68 ± 4ºF) and 65 ± 5 % RH – Condition time as indicated in Table 2 (animal fibers – wool and cashmere min. 8 hours, vegetable fibers – cotton and flax min. 6 hours) – Lay each test specimen flat on a screen or perforated shelf of a conditioning/drying rack

Evaluation • Three trained observers should rate each test specimen independently • Overhead fluorescent light and flood lamp with reflector and light shield should be the only light sources for the viewing area • Mount the test specimen with the crease in the vertical direction

Evaluation (cont’d) • Place the most similar 3 -dimensional crease replica on each side of test specimen • Mount replicas 1, 3, and 5 on the left and 2 and 4 on the right • Assign the numerical grade of the replica which most nearly matches the appearance of the crease in the test specimen

REPORT for each sample tested 1. Description of sample 2. AATCC Test Method 88 C-2018 t 3. Number of specimens tested 4. Type of ballast 5. Standard detergent used 6. Number of laundering cycles 7. Laundering conditions 8. Number of observers 9. Any modifications to test 10. Average CR grade

Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Home Laundering AATCC Test Method 143 -2018 t This test method and its accompanying tools were developed for evaluation of woven fabrics with a durable-press finish.

Purpose To determine the smoothness appearance of fabric, seams, and pressedin creases in garments and other textile end products after home laundering

Apparatus As specified in AATCC Test Methods 124, 88 B and 88 C

Test Specimens For textile end product test, select three items for testing

PROCEDURE • Same washing and drying procedures as Test Method 124 • Test specimens subjected to five complete laundering cycles

CONDITIONING • Condition specimens prior to evaluation – ASTM D 1776, Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles, Table 1 for Textiles, general; temperature 20 ± 2 °C (68 ± 4ºF) and 65 ± 5 % RH – Condition time as indicated in Table 2 (animal fibers – wool and cashmere min. 8 hours, vegetable fibers – cotton and flax min. 6 hours) – Lay each test specimen flat on a screen or perforated shelf of a conditioning/drying rack (Textile end product items should be hung for conditioning? )

Evaluation • Three trained observers • The overhead fluorescent light should be the only light source on in the viewing area except when rating crease appearance.

Evaluation (con’t) • Mount the test specimen on the viewing board with the fabric length in the vertical direction • Observer is to stand directly in front of the specimen at a distance of 1219 ± 25 mm (48 ± 1 in. ) from the viewing board

Smoothness Appearance Place most similar 3 -D Replicas on each side of the item. Assign the numerical grade of the replica which most nearly matches the smoothness appearance of the item. You may assign a grade midway between those whole-number standards which have no half-number standard separating them.

Appearance of Seams • Mount textile item with the seam in the vertical direction. • Place the appropriate single- or double-needle seam replica beside the item. • Assign the numerical grade which most nearly matches the appearance of the seam in the item.

Appearance of Creases Mount the textile item with the crease in the vertical direction. Place the most similar 3 dimensional crease replica on each side of the item. Mount replicas 1, 3, and 5 on the left and 2 and 4 on the right. Assign the numerical grade of the replica which most nearly matches the appearance of the crease in the item.

Large Items ● Large items such as a sheet, comforter, bedspread, or drapery, fold the item lengthwise to produce a panel half the original width. ● Place folded panel over a rod so that the fabric length is vertical and the folded item is in equal quarters. ● Evaluate the area across the full width of the quartered panel at the same eye level as the replicas. ● Evaluate all 4 quarters and report the average grade.

Appearance of Textile End Products Option 1 • The individual components to be evaluated in each test item should be determined and entered on a rating chart.

RATING CHART Option 1 Identification: Men’s Dress Pants Component (Characteristic, Attribute) Weighting Factor (10. 1) Average Grade (10. 2) Point Value Overall smoothness X = Side seam X = Crease X = Fly, stitching X = X = X = Percentile Value Total Point Value Total Weighting Factor X 100 = Maximun X 5 = Point Value

Appearance of Textile End Products Option 1 • If it is desired to designate certain components as more or less important to the overall appearance of the item, weighting factors should be added.

Weighting Factors Very important to the overall item appearance Moderately important to overall item appearance Slightly important to overall item appearance

RATING CHART Option 1 Identification: Men’s Dress Pants Component (Characteristic, Attribute) Weighting Factor (10. 1) Average Grade (10. 2) Point Value Overall smoothness 3 X = Side seam 2 X = Crease 3 X = Fly, stitching 3 X = X = X = Percentile Value Total Point Value Total Weighting Factor X 100 = Maximun X 5 = Point Value

RATING CHART Option 1 Identification: Men’s Dress Pants Component (Characteristic, Attribute) Weighting Factor (10. 1) Average Grade (10. 2) Point Value Overall smoothness 3 X 4. 7 = 14. 1 Side seam 2 X 3. 8 = Crease 3 X 4. 4 = 13. 2 Fly, stitching 3 X 4. 2 = 12. 6 X = X = Total Point Value Total Weighting Factor 7. 6 Percentile Value 47. 5 X 100 = 11 Maximun X 5 = Point Value 55 86. 4

Reporting Option 1 – Using weighting factors assign numbers to individual components depending on its importance to the overall item appearance and report the % value.

Reporting Option 2 - Report average grades on each individual component of each test item.

REPORT for each sample tested 1. Description of sample 2. AATCC Test Method 143 -2018 t 3. Number of specimens used 4. Type of ballast 5. Standard detergent used 6. Number of laundering cycles 7. Laundering conditions 8. Number of observers 9. Any modifications to test 10. Option 1: overall % value Option 2: average SA grade, average SS grade, and average CR grade to the nearest 1/10 of a grade