Sewing Skills Chapter 23 1 Sewing is a

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Sewing Skills Chapter 23 1

Sewing Skills Chapter 23 1

 • Sewing is a complex task • Learn fabrics, patterns, equipment, and basic

• Sewing is a complex task • Learn fabrics, patterns, equipment, and basic sewing techniques 2

Fabric Grain • Grain = the direction of yarn • Warp runs lengthwise •

Fabric Grain • Grain = the direction of yarn • Warp runs lengthwise • Runs the same direction as the selvage • Filling yarns run crosswise • Bias = runs diagonally 3

Bias • To find the true bias • Pick up a corner and fold

Bias • To find the true bias • Pick up a corner and fold it so the cut edge is parallel with the selvage 4

Checking the Grain • Off-grain = fabric is crooked, hard to handle • Finished

Checking the Grain • Off-grain = fabric is crooked, hard to handle • Finished product will twist, pull to one side, hang unevenly 5

Check the Grain • Straighten the cut edges • Inside the cut edge pick

Check the Grain • Straighten the cut edges • Inside the cut edge pick up one filling yarn and pull it gently • With the other hand push the fabric 6

Preparing the Fabric • Many are preshrunk • Shrunk during processing • Check the

Preparing the Fabric • Many are preshrunk • Shrunk during processing • Check the label on the end of the bolt • If not shrunk you need to do so 7

To Preshrink • Wash and dry as you would the finished product • If

To Preshrink • Wash and dry as you would the finished product • If pressing is needed do so before placing pattern pieces • Press in the direction of the lengthwise grain 8

Preparing the Pattern • Remove pattern pieces from the envelope • Write your name

Preparing the Pattern • Remove pattern pieces from the envelope • Write your name and class period on the center of each one, guide sheet, pattern envelope • Trim pattern pieces before placing them 9

 • If pattern pieces are wrinkled, press them carefully 10

• If pattern pieces are wrinkled, press them carefully 10

Adjusting the Pattern Length • Check your measurements • Use the chart on the

Adjusting the Pattern Length • Check your measurements • Use the chart on the back of the envelope • Altering pattern pieces first and not finished garment 11

 • Most pattern pieces are labeled “lengthen or shorten” here • Lengthen the

• Most pattern pieces are labeled “lengthen or shorten” here • Lengthen the piece by taping paper to the pattern piece • To shorten, vice versa • **be sure to lengthen and shorten in equal amounts 12

 • Altering the bottom edge of pattern pieces does not solve all fitting

• Altering the bottom edge of pattern pieces does not solve all fitting problems • Follow the pattern’s advice 13

The Pattern Layout • Decide which is the right side of your fabric •

The Pattern Layout • Decide which is the right side of your fabric • Fold right sides together (lengthwise) 14

Fabric Lay outs • Lengthwise fold • Crosswise fold • Off-center lengthwise fold=fold one

Fabric Lay outs • Lengthwise fold • Crosswise fold • Off-center lengthwise fold=fold one selvage toward another • Bias fold= runs diagonally across fabric 15

 • Guide sheet = suggests layouts • Shows you how to lay your

• Guide sheet = suggests layouts • Shows you how to lay your pieces on the fabric • Draw a circle around the ones you need 16

 • Most pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with print side up

• Most pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with print side up • Shaded piece is upside down • Most pieces need to be cut twice • Lay out all pieces before you begin cutting 17

Pinning • Begin with larger pieces first • • • Look for the grain

Pinning • Begin with larger pieces first • • • Look for the grain line on each piece Check for pieces placed on fold Push the pins through all layers Smooth out pattern pieces Check lay out one more time 18

Cutting • Bent handle shears are best for cutting • • • Look for

Cutting • Bent handle shears are best for cutting • • • Look for arrows in the seam line Cut with long, smooth strokes Keep your free hand lightly on pattern Cut notches out not IN!!! Cutting double notches cut across top and then down 19

Marking • Markings on pieces that need to be transferred • Center front, center

Marking • Markings on pieces that need to be transferred • Center front, center back, darts, dots, buttons, etc • Remove the pins after markings are done 20

 • Tracing wheel with dressmaker’s carbon paper • Tailors chalk • Using thread--contrasting

• Tracing wheel with dressmaker’s carbon paper • Tailors chalk • Using thread--contrasting 21

Machine Sewing • As you start to sew • Check the spool and bobbin

Machine Sewing • As you start to sew • Check the spool and bobbin • Place fabric under presser foots • Put down presser foot • Using right hand, turn the hand wheel and lower the needle 22

 • Stitch at a slow, constant speed • Keep both hands lightly on

• Stitch at a slow, constant speed • Keep both hands lightly on the fabric near the presser foot • Don’t push or pull the fabric 23

 • Instead of tying threads at the start and end of the seam

• Instead of tying threads at the start and end of the seam you can backstitch • As you sew, remove the pins before the presser foot comes to them 24

Turning Corners • • Stitch to within 5/8 of an inch of the corner

Turning Corners • • Stitch to within 5/8 of an inch of the corner Stop Needle down into the fabric Life the presser foot Turn the fabric Lower the presser foot And continue to sew 25

Directional Stitching • Sewing in the same direction as the cutting line 26

Directional Stitching • Sewing in the same direction as the cutting line 26

Basting • Long and loose • Made by hand or by machine • To

Basting • Long and loose • Made by hand or by machine • To be removed easily • Helps when you check fit of garment 27

Easing & Gathering • Basting stitches are used • Ease and gather are much

Easing & Gathering • Basting stitches are used • Ease and gather are much alike • Make extra fabric fit into a smaller space • Sew one line on sewing line and one 1/8 inch into seam allowance • See page 370 figure 23 -25 28

Darts • Provide shape and fullness • Point to the fullest part of body

Darts • Provide shape and fullness • Point to the fullest part of body curves • Darts at waistline etc • To make a dart, stitch at the widest point and sew to the point 29

Seams • Plain seam = right sides together, matching notches, etc • Pins put

Seams • Plain seam = right sides together, matching notches, etc • Pins put at right angles • For pressing • See page 371 figure 23 -29 30

 • Flat-felt seam = used on shirts, sportswear, jeans, pj’s, etc • Stitch

• Flat-felt seam = used on shirts, sportswear, jeans, pj’s, etc • Stitch a plain seam with wrong sides together, trim under and press seam to one side, then turn it under • See page 372 for examples 31

 • Welt seam = less bulky than flat fell • French seam =

• Welt seam = less bulky than flat fell • French seam = seam within a seam 32

Finishing Seams • Pinked/scalloped seam • Look nice, but do not prevent raveling •

Finishing Seams • Pinked/scalloped seam • Look nice, but do not prevent raveling • Turned and stitched seam finishes • Looks neat and prevents raveling • See page 373 figure 23 -33 33

Trimming, Grading and Clipping • Trim = cut away a part of the seam

Trimming, Grading and Clipping • Trim = cut away a part of the seam allowance • Grading=each seam allowance cut to a different width • Clipping= clip every 1/4 inch on curves • Inward and outward 34

Facing • Used to cover raw edges in a garment • Armholes, neckline, etc

Facing • Used to cover raw edges in a garment • Armholes, neckline, etc • Extended facing is cut as part of your pattern piece • Fitted facing is cut the same shape as the raw edge 35

Interfacing • Fabric that lies between two other fabrics • Used to add body

Interfacing • Fabric that lies between two other fabrics • Used to add body to collars, cuffs, lapels, waistbands, and pockets • Woven VS non woven 36

 • Woven • Move flexibility • Non woven • No grain and can

• Woven • Move flexibility • Non woven • No grain and can be cut in any direction 37

Zippers • Come in all lengths, weights, styles, and colors • Pattern envelope tells

Zippers • Come in all lengths, weights, styles, and colors • Pattern envelope tells you what length you need • Sewn into place by machine • Use a zipper foot 38

Centered Zippers • Used at center front and center back openings • Measure length

Centered Zippers • Used at center front and center back openings • Measure length of the zipper and add one inch • See page 378 for more details 39

Lapped Zippers • Zipper coil is less visible • Can hide zipper from view

Lapped Zippers • Zipper coil is less visible • Can hide zipper from view • Sew, baste, and press zipper • Fly-front zippers are a variation of the lap zipper 40

Invisible Zippers • Invisible zipper looks like a regular seam • Only pull tab

Invisible Zippers • Invisible zipper looks like a regular seam • Only pull tab is visible 41

Hems • Last step in sewing a garment • Should be smooth, even, almost

Hems • Last step in sewing a garment • Should be smooth, even, almost invisible • Make sure edges are finished 42

Marking a Hem • Stand in front of a mirror and test lengths •

Marking a Hem • Stand in front of a mirror and test lengths • Easiest way is to ave someone help you • Use a skirt marker, yardstick or meter stick • Measure from the floor to the desired length 43

 • Place the pins at right angles and baste close to the hemline

• Place the pins at right angles and baste close to the hemline 44

Removing Extra Fullness • Garment is flared the hem does not lie flat •

Removing Extra Fullness • Garment is flared the hem does not lie flat • Extra fabric puckers at the upper edge • To ease, machine stitch 1/4 inch from cut edge • Turn the hem up • Pin hem to the garment at each seam line 45

Finishing Hems • Finish fabrics so they do not ravel • See page 385

Finishing Hems • Finish fabrics so they do not ravel • See page 385 figure 23 -65 etc • Seam binding- used for medium or heavyweight fabrics • Stretch lace binding= medium and lightweight fabrics • Bias binding= used for fabrics that ravel a great deal 46

Securing Hems • Sewn into place by hand • Space stitches evenly • Slipstitch

Securing Hems • Sewn into place by hand • Space stitches evenly • Slipstitch -- hardly shows on either side • Blindstitch -- shows even less than the slip stitch • Topstitching- used to secure hem 47

Advanced or Special Sewing Skills • First time sew something with fewer pieces •

Advanced or Special Sewing Skills • First time sew something with fewer pieces • More experienced have more pieces and more difficult. 48