Seams and Seam Finishes Apparel 1 Obj 3

Seams and Seam Finishes Apparel 1 Obj. 3. 03 Supplemental Power. Point

Seam Allowance • Standard seam allowance is 5/8 -inch. If the guide sheet doesn’t specify a seam allowance, then assume it is 5/8 -inch. • The guide sheet will tell you what seam allowance to leave.

Fabric notes • Unless the guide sheet tells you something different, fabric is placed right sides together. • On all plain seams the fabric is right sides together. • Remember the plain seam is: – Fabric right sides together – Stitch, leaving a 5/8 -inch seam allowance – Press the seam allowance open

Drawbacks to the plain seam • The plain seam is the weakest of seams. • Because the seam allowance isn’t finished, it is likely to ravel. That means the seam will eventually come apart. • All stitches should be backstitched at the beginning and end to keep them from coming apart. • Backstitching is sewing backwards at the beginning and end of a stitch to “lock in” the stitch. The backstitch should not show as it does here. It should follow the same path backward and then forward.

Making a seam stronger • To make a seam stronger it can be reinforced. • Reinforcing a seam means the stitch length is shortened to 15 to 20 stitches per inch. • These shorter stitches make the seam stronger. • Crotches of pants or shorts, underarms of shirts and other high-stress areas should be reinforced.

The Zig Zag • The zig zag stitch is used on medium and heavy weight fabrics. It will pucker and damage lightweight fabrics. • The zig zag is used as a seam finish to prevent raveling. • It’s advantage is that it is fast.

Turned and stitched • This is the dinosaur of seam finishes. • Used occasionally on the hems of dress shirts and in applications with seethrough material. • In this finish the seam allowance is turned back ¼-inch and then stitched at the edge. • It’s purpose is to prevent raveling.

Importance of pressing • All well-made seams are pressed after stitching. • Pressing the stitches into the fabric helps set them. • Pressing the seam allowance open lets the seam lie flat.

Seam finishing and machines • Sewing machines and sergers can both do seam finishes. • The serger stitches and finishes at the same time. • Stretch fabrics and knits are especially wellsuited for serging as a seam finish.