S E U Q I N CH N

S E U Q I N CH N TEI L L A G CM N I MA BIA IM G CLE O R G

INTRODUCTION Let’s take a look at some common climbing moves and holds: CRIMP BRIDGING LAYBACK SLOPER CHIMNEY UP GUPPIE MONO MANTLESHELF FLAGGING HAND FINGER FISTJAM MATCH HANDS ROCKOVER UNDERCLING EDGING SMEARING 2

WHAT IS A CRIMP THEN? § As its name suggests, a crimp is a small hold onto which you can just get the ends of your fingers (usually the last joint) or toes! § It’s an aggressive, powerful position but can have high injury potential due to the force on joints/tendons! 3

WHAT IS A SLOPER THEN? § Slopers are simply that! § handholds that are usually rounded and without a positive edge or lip for your fingers to grip. § They require practice and usually are easier to use if above you, rather than to the side. § Chalk is essential, espeically in hot, sweaty weather! 4

WHAT IS A MANTLE SHELF § A climbing technique used to get onto a ledge whereby you pull up on your hands and get your body over the shelf, then pushing down until you can get your feet on it. 5

WHAT IS A GUPPIE § Climbing holds used for climbing walls. Used to set grade difficulty according to hold type. 6

WHAT IS A HAND-FINGER FIST JAM § Using your hands as a camming device to use a vertical crack as a hand hold. The hand is inserted into the crack, and then either twisted to cam the fingers into the crack (finger locks) 7

WHAT IS A ROCKOVER? Climbing move involving pushing body weight over one raised knee to allow a hold that is out of reach to be accessed. 8

WHAT IS A LAYBACK? § The layback is a technique used regularly, quite strenuous but effective too. § It is basically opposing pressure from hands to feet. Transfer your body weight to your feet from your hands. § A single maneuver like this is called a layaway 9

WHAT IS CHIMNEYING UP § A rock cleft with vertical sides mostly parallel, large enough to fit the climber's body into. To climb such a structure, the climber often uses his head, back and feet to apply opposite pressure on the vertical walls. 10

WHAT IS MONO? § Another French Term! "single finger. § A climbing hold, typically a pocket or hueco, that only has enough room for one finger. . 11

WHAT IS A HEEL HOOK? § A heel hook involves you placing the heel of your foot on a hold that is usually waist level or higher. The move is most useful in situations where there is an arete or an overhang. § The move helps keep your balance and can also provide leverage for moving your hands and body. 12

WHAT IS EDGING? § Edging is the placement of the very edge (either inside or outside edge) of the rock shoe on a sharp hold. § Edging is the most simple and most common approach for standing on holds but, even so, requires some practice to obtain the very best footing. § On smaller holds, it becomes something of an exercise in precision. 13

WHAT IS SMEARING? § Using the friction of the rock shoe sole in the absence of useful footholds. § Can be an alternative to edging. § The ball of the foot is, literally, smeared onto the surface of the rock. § Here one relies upon friction created at the sole of the shoe. 14

WHAT IS FLAGGING? § An extended leg that counterbalances the body and prevents the center of mass from barn dooring. § To drape one leg crosswise across the other, usually behind it (an outside flag), while pointing the flagged leg’s toe into the rock to. § My favourite demo video § http: //www. youtube. com/wa tch? v=Usee 0 F_Ya 98 § Starts 0630 into video. 15

WHAT IS MATCHING? § When you place either both your hands or feet on the same hold. § Whenever you change your hands or feet on a particular hold, you are matching. § When matching feet, you will often have to hop off one foot, planting the other in its place 16

WHAT IS UNDERCLING? § A hold which is oriented in a downward direction. Opposition can be created by pulling upward and maintaining body tension through the feet. 17

Y R E V S m K N cli M U ! H C g! n bi ur A o TH oy y j En 18