Routine animal care Michael Lavoie B S Middlesex
Routine animal care Michael Lavoie, B. S. Middlesex Community College Veterinary Assistant program March 2012
Bandages l Applied for several reasons l Immobilization l Wound dressing l Protection l Cover splints l Consist of several layers- each has a purpose l Be familiar with the knowledge and equipment necessary l Basic knowledge of how to apply a simple protective bandage
General materials l Rolled cotton l Adhesive tape (1” or 2”) l Rolled gauze or cling l Co-flex or vet wrap bandage l Non-adhesive pad (optional) l Bandage scissors
Bandage layers l Primary- layer closet to the skin l Soft and provide padding l Act as a protective covering of the area l Cotton rolls, cotton bandages, or other soft fiber materials l Use a nonabsorbent protective pad if covering sutures or a wound l Should be tight enough to remain in place, but not tight enough to cut off circulation l Cover all areas to provide several layers of padding
Bandage layers- continued l Secondary- thin fiber material that clings to the first layer l Holds the primary layer in place l Gauze or cling l Wrap beyond the areas of the primary layer
Bandage layers- continued l Tertiary- final layer that acts as the outer covering that holds the bandage on the animal l Waterproof protection l Extend beyond the edges of the secondary layer l Usually self-adherent- co-flex or vet wrap
Bandages l Application and type depend on the purpose of the bandage and the location in which it is applied l Stirrups- used when slipping is a concern ¡ Adhesive tap strips applied onto the skin on opposite sides of the limb ¡ Strips extend beyond the end of the limb ¡ “tape strips” ¡ Apply layers smoothly and evenly, prevent wrinkles
Use Caution… l Make sure the bandage is not placed too tight l If bandaging a limb make sure you can see the toes l Avoid moisture build up- do not let the bandage get wet- protect well from moisture l Monitor the bandage and patient closely l Remove the bandage immediately if the patient’s behavior changes l Schedule routine bandage changes l Instruct owners on proper care and what they should be monitoring for
Bandage care l Essential l Keep clean- change if soiled l Keep dry l Keep patient from chewing or lickingelizabethian collar, bitter apple l Monitor for slipping l Restrict activity
Bandage removal l Determined by the veterinarian l Remove with bandage scissors ¡Cut away the layers of the bandage ¡Have an angled end that prevents cutting the animal during bandage removal ¡Point scissors upward and in contact with the bandage layers ¡Clean, disinfect and store scissors properly ¡Carry your own pair
Fluid Administration l Administered to patients for fluid replacement therapy due to dehydration or illness l Small amounts cn be given subcutaneously l Larger amounts are given IV via a catheter l Goal for assistants- be able to monitor the catheter and IV fluid line and pump
SQ Fluid therapy l Placed into the loose skin at the base of the neck l Usually less than 200 m. L volume of fluid l Slowly absorbed by the body l Minimal vomiting and diarrhea l Kidney disease l Urine collection l Veterinarian will prescribe a certain type of fluid and a volume and volume frequency
Techniques used for SQ fluid administration l A syringe and needle l A syringe, needle, and extension set l From an IV bag and solution drip set l Most tolerate well l Volume= 5 -10 m. L per pound l Average absorption time= 6 -8 hours
How to prepare an IV fluid bag and drip set l l l l l Wash hands well Remove IV bag and drip set from plastic cover Close IV set “wheel” on plastic tubing Remove cover the white spike of the drip set; its sharp, do not contaminate Remove the spike port cover on the fluid bag Guide the spike straight through the fluid bag port Hang bag on hook or IV pole Open the “wheel” to allow fluids and air to be removed from the bag and tubing Close “wheel” when all bubbles are removed and apply needle to the end of the drip set
Administering IV fluids l Apply gloves l Tent the skin over the base of the neck between the shoulder blades l Insert the needle into the base of the tented area slightly angled downward and just under the skin l Let go of the tented skin and hold the needle in place with one hand l Use free hand to open the “wheel” on the drip set l Give the appropriate volume and close the “wheel” on fluid tubing l Remove the needle and apply pressure to the injection site
IV catheter l Small plastic piece of equipment that is placed within a vein l Used to administer medications and/or fluids directly into the patient’s bloodstream l Requires advanced skills l Assistant is responsible for maintaining and monitoring the IV catheter patency (proper flow and catheter remains intact and usable)
IV catheter sites l Cephalic vein l Jugular vein l Lateral saphenous vein l Medial saphenous vein l Femoral vein l Dorsal pedal vein l Be able to recognize where the catheter is place, that it is patent and flowing and that the fluid rate is correct
Catheter bandages l Placed to cover and protect the catheter l Many different methods and materials l Should be checked daily l Assess the insertion site l Look for bleeding, swelling, pain disconnection
Phlebitis l Develops around the insertion site l Swelling, pain, inflammation, redness l Monitor dily l Replace a catheter as needed
Common problems l Blood clot l Kink l Flush with heparinized saline l Chewing, licking l Patient disconnect l Soiled bandage l Fluid outside of the vein l Patient leg
IV fluid monitoring l IV fluids require constant and consistent monitoring l Flow rate- amount of fluid to be delivered over the course of a day l Note initial volume- tape? l Use a fluid pump ¡ Infusion pump ¡ Regulates flow rate and drip rate ¡ Provides a constant flow of fluid at a specific rate throughout the say ¡ alarms
Types of IV drip lines l Depends on patient fluid volume l Macrodrip- delivers 15 drops of fluid per mililiter ¡Good for medium and large dogs l Microdrip- small lines that deliver 60 drops/ml ¡Good for cats, small dogs
Fluid rate calculations l Want 1000 m. L l 1000 m. L/24 hours= 41. 6 m. L/hr l Want 500 m. L l 500 m. L/24 hrs= 20. 8 m. L/hr
Equipment care l Clean and disinfect fluid pumps as directed by manufacturers l Use drip sets that are calibrated for each individual pump l Handle pumps with care l Store pumps properly l Keep pumps charging if needed l Protect pumps from “animal abuse” l Send pumps to manufacturer as needed for calibration/repair
Questions?
Physical Care and Procedures Michael Lavoie, B. S. Middlesex Community College Veterinary Assistant Program March 19, 2012
Vital Signs l Heart Rate- number of beats the heart makes over a specific amount of time ¡Dog- 70 -160 beats per minute- dependent on size of dog ¡Cat- 160 -240 beats per minute l Technique¡Hand over heart or use stethoscope ¡Count the beats over 15 seconds and multiply by 4
Vital Signs l Respiration rate- frequency of breathing, based on breaths per minute ¡Dog- 10 -30 breaths per minute ¡Cat- 10 -30 breaths per minute l Technique¡Observe flank motion ¡Count the breaths over 15 seconds and multiply by 4
Vital Signs l Heart Rate- number of beats the heart makes over a specific amount of time ¡Dog- 70 -160 beats per minute- dependent on size of dog ¡Cat- 160 -240 beats per minute l Technique¡Hand over heart or use stethoscope ¡Count the beats over 15 seconds and multiply by 4
Capillary Refill Time l There are many small blood vessels called capillaries in an animal's gums. l When an area of the gum is pressed, blood is forced out of these capillaries. l When the pressure is released, the blood should almost immediately refill the capillaries. l Normal capillary refill time, or CRT in dogs and cats is 1. 5 seconds
Prolonged CRT l A prolonged capillary refill time (CRT) occurs when the blood is not flowing adequately. l This can occur if the pet is in, or is going into, shock. l It can also occur in certain heart diseases. l Taking the CRT is a fast and easy measurement which may indicate the pet has a serious condition.
Mucous Membrane Color l Yellow gums can indicate liver failure or disease. ¡ This might be expected if your pet has already been diagnosed with a liver condition or is on certain types of medication. l White or pale gums can indicate blood loss. ¡ If there is not enough blood to circulate throughout your pet's body, or if your pet's body cannot properly circulate the blood, there will be very little color in the gum line. l Brick red gums can indicate bacterial infection. ¡ This is often medically referred to as sepsis. l Blue gums indicate hypoxia. ¡ This occurs when your pet cannot breathe or is not getting enough oxygen through breathing.
Mucous Membrane l Some dogs have dark or black patches on their gums. l This is normal for some breeds. l This dark discoloration does not develop overnight and is typically not a symptom. l Even black tongues are characteristic to some breeds, such as chows.
Weight in Cats l Cats, much like humans, may suffer from weight problems l With a choice of tasty food and treats and a relatively sedate lifestyle, indoor cats are particularly affected by this problem. l Excess fat can have a bad effect on the cat's overall health.
Weight in Cats l Overweight cats are prone to heart disease, arthritis, and a series of other health problems, and are often in poor shape. l Some cats are very overweight and are considered obese. l Obese cats find it difficult to move around are often short of breath.
Factors that affect weight difference in cat: l Breed l Sex
Breed l This is the fundamental parameter in assessing a cat's ideal weight. l For the larger breeds, such as the Maine Coon, a large fully-grown male can weigh 18 pounds (8 kilos) without being the least overweight. l A female of a smaller breed, the Singapura, may actually be overweight at a mere 7 pounds (3 kilos)! l A kilo- or kilogram- is equal to 2. 2 pounds
Sex l There is a noticeable difference in weight between males and females of the same breed. l Males are usually 2 -4 pounds heavier than females. l Note that whether a cat is neutered or not should not affect its weight. l The only difference is that, in order to achieve the same weight, neutered cats require about a third less calories.
Assessing your Cat’s Weight l The best way to tell if your cat is overweight is by checking the cat. l Move your hands along the sides of the body and gently try to feel the ribs. l If the cat is within range of its ideal weight, you should be able to easily count the ribs.
Assessing your Cat’s Weight l The ribs should be covered with a layer of fat, but not to an extent that would make it difficult to feel them. l With obese cats it is easy to see that they are larger than usual, have a large abdomen, and experience difficulty walking and grooming themselves. l Obesity can sometimes be a side-effect of a more serious disease and requires urgent veterinary attention.
Weight in Dogs l There are many reasons a dog can become overweight. l The obvious culprits are improper diet and lack of sufficient exercise. l A dog recovering from an illness or injury is usually required to remain sedentary and is therefore at risk for weight gain. l It is also important to know that weight gain may actually be a symptom of some hormonal disorders, such as hypothyroidism or Cushing's syndrome.
Weight in dogs l Genetic predisposition is a big factor. l Certain dog breeds are simply more prone to obesity than others, such as English Bulldogs, Beagles, Dachshunds, Pugs, Dalmatians and Cocker Spaniels.
Health risks of Obesity in dogs l Canine obesity is dangerous because it can lead to a great number of health problems. It may also adversely affect an existing health issue. l The following diseases and disorders may be caused or exacerbated by obesity: ¡ Cardiac disease ¡ Diabetes ¡ Hypertension (high blood pressure) ¡ Orthopedic injuries (such as cruciate ligament rupture or patellar luxation) ¡ Osteoarthritis ¡ Respiratory disorders ¡ Various forms of cancer
Assessing your dogs weight l Running your hands along your dog's ribcage, you should be able to palpate the ribs covered by a thin layer of fat. ¡ Inability to feel the ribs is a sign of an overweight dog. l Looking at your dog from the side, you should be able to see the upward tuck of the abdomen. ¡ An overweight dog will have very little or no tuck. l Viewing your dog from above, there should be a moderate narrowing at the waist just past the ribcage. ¡ A straight or bulging line from the ribcage to the hips indicates an overweight dog
The Flea l Completion of the life cycle from egg to adult varies from two weeks to eight months. l Normally the female flea lays about 15 to 20 eggs per day up to 600 in a lifetime. l Usual hosts for fleas are dogs, cats, rabbits, mice, squirrels, chipmunks, raccoons, opossums, foxes, chickens, and humans. l Eggs loosely laid in the hair, drop out where the pet rests, sleeps or nests (rugs, carpets, upholstered furniture, cat or dog boxes, kennels, sand boxes, etc. )
l Eggs hatch in two days to two weeks into larvae found indoors in floor cracks & crevices, along baseboards, under rug edges and in furniture or beds. l Sand gravel are very suitable for flea development which is the reason fleas are erroneously called "sand fleas. " l Outdoor development occurs in sandy gravel soils (moist sand boxes, dirt crawlspace under the house, under shrubs, etc. ) where the pet may rest or sleep. l Larvae are blind, avoid light, pass through three larval stages and take a week to several months to develop.
l Their food consists of digested blood from adult flea feces, dead skin, hair, feathers, and other organic debris. (Larvae do not suck blood. ) l Pupa mature to adulthood within a silken cocoon woven by the larva to which pet hair, carpet fiber, dust, grass cuttings, and other debris adheres. l In about five to fourteen days, adult fleas can emerge or may remain resting in the cocoon until the detection of vibration (pet and people movement), pressure (host animal lying down on them), heat, noise, or carbon dioxide (meaning a potential blood source is near).
l Adult fleas cannot survive or lay eggs without a blood meal, but may hibernate from two months to one year without feeding. l There is often a desperate need for flea control after a family has returned from a long vacation. The house has been empty with no cat or dog around for fleas to feed on. When the family and pets are gone, flea eggs hatch and larvae pupate. The adult fleas fully developed inside the pupal cocoon remains in a kind of "limbo" for a long time until a blood source is near. The family returning from vacation is immediately attacked by waiting hungry hordes of fleas. (In just 30 days, 10 female fleas under ideal conditions can multiply to over a quarter million different life stages. )
Flea and Tick Control for Cats and Dogs l Use as directed by veterinarian. l Different Veterinary Practices use different protocols.
Questions?
- Slides: 50