ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS TRAINING OBJECTIVES

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS TRAINING OBJECTIVES

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS TRAINING OBJECTIVES Participants will understand: • • • the components of a Rope Rescue System the specific duties of Rope Rescue Team members the Tandem Prusik Belay System Lowering Belay Raising Belay understand Lowering Systems Mechanical Advantage Raising Systems How to Reverse the System

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS ROPE RESCUE SYSTEM Placer County Sheriff’s Mountain Rescue Team

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS The Rope Rescue Team

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS ROPE RESCUE TEAM

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS ROPE RESCUE TEAM • Safety Officer • Operations Leader • Systems Leader • Medical Team Leader • Belay Line System Operator • Main Line System Operator • Edge Tenders • Haul Team

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER Rescue situations rapidly change. The effective Safety Officer must be able to forecast potential safety issues.

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER • The Safety Officer is responsible for monitoring and assessing the safety aspects of all team operations, door-to-door.

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER At least one team Safety Officer should be assigned to every rescue mission and training event.

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER Any member of the team can call STOP to an operation if a safety concern is detected

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER 1. Scene Safety – Establishes, and marks a minimum 6’ safety zone at the edge – All personnel must be on a tether beyond this safety zone

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER 1. Scene Safety Determine if the rigging location is safe – – – Loose rocks Unstable overhang Awareness of any environmental safety issues • Poison Oak • Hornet’s nest • Requirements for Personal Floatation Devices

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER 1. Scene Safety – – Checks each member’s minimum PPE • Helmet • Gloves • Harness Establishes a Safe Zone 6’ from edge

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER 1. Scene Safety – Responsible for selecting safe helicopter landing zone. – Assures an emergency medical plan is in place – Assures Horseplay does not occur

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER 2. System Safety – Checks each Anchor • Proper anchor materials • Proper anchor for situation • Bomb-proof anchor system • Angles

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER 2. System Safety – Checks each system to the component level • Knots • Proper carabiners in use • Carabiners locked • Proper and adequate edge protection in place

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER 2. System Safety – – Checks each System • Adequate MA • Proper overall setup • Proper equipment used Checks for a “Kill Zone” in the rigged system and marks the kill zone area

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER 3. Edge Tender Safety – Edge tender has independent anchor – Edge tender is tethered before approaching the edge

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER 4. Operation Safety – Assures change-over procedures are conducted in a safe manner. – Assures adequate medical resources are considered when making search team assignments.

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS SAFETY OFFICER 4. Operation Safety – Monitors the entire operation. – The Safety Officer can stop the operation at any time. – Monitor vehicle safety: sleepiness and adequate breaks on convoys.

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY DEFINITIONS 1. Belay – to provide protection against a fall by handling a tensionless rope (belay rope) in such a manner that it may be taken in or let out as another person(s) climbs, rappels, or ascends a fixed rope or is raised, lowered or transported, yet be secure to hold this load in case of failure of the main support. 2. Self Belay – to provide protection against a fall by the person(s) 3. Conditional Belay – to provide protection against a fall by using a needing the protection moving their adjustable connection point along a fixed rope, that remains without tension until the fall, as they climb, rappel or ascend a different fixed, or are raised, lowered or transported, by a separate rope, that is already under tension from all or part of the load, to hold the load should a failure occur in some other part of the system. (RFR BD-1 1996 adapted from BCCTR Notes prepared by Arnor Larson)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY DEFINITIONS 4. Conditional Self Belay – to provide protection against a fall 5. Auto Belay – (“Deadman” Belay) a self activating belay that 6. Pseudo Belay – a belay that will not work; that is pretend, by the use of a conditional belay that is managed by the person(s) needing the protection. does not require a positive action to engage it. The term auto can be applied to any of the 4 types of belay listed above when it is appropriate. counterfeit or false. The term pseudo can be applied to any of the 4 types of belay listed above when it is appropriate. (RFR BD-1 1996 adapted from BCCTR Notes prepared by Arnor Larson)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS TANDEM PRUSSIK BELAY SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY SYSTEMS • Rescue Systems Testing The B. C. Council of Technical Rescue (BCCTR) started testing of systems in 1982. • The BCCTR has the following minimum standard: with a 200 kg mass (two persons + equipment = load) tied to 3 meters of rope, the belay system must be able to withstand a 1 meter drop of the load and stop it in less than 1 meter of additional travel and with less than 15 KN of force (while retaining 80% of system strength. (copyright © 1990 – Arnor Larson)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY SYSTEMS • It is of great concern that a number of systems in present use cannot manage this bare minimum! • To date the only belay system tested successfully in accordance with the BCCTR standard is the Tandem Prusik Belay. (copyright © 1990 – Arnor Larson)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY SYSTEMS • To date no Gibbs, rescuesender, or other mechanical belay device tested has met the BCCTR 1 meter minimum. • Note: since 1990 the only mechanical belay device that has meet the BCCTR standard is the 540° Belay (copyright © 1990 – Arnor Larson)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY SYSTEMS & FOCAL POINTS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY SYSTEMS Main & Belay Focal Points are down slope

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY SYSTEMS • Where is the belay line focal point? • Where is the main line focal point? • Where’s Joe?

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY READY?

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY SYSTEMS – Proper Hand Position

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS TANDEM PRUSIK BELAY

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS TANDEM PRUSSIK BELAY with LOAD

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS TANDEM PRUSIK RAISING BELAY (Static)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS TANDEM PRUSIK RAISING BELAY (Dynamic)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS EDGE TENDER

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS EDGE TENDER 1. Edge Tender Safety – Edge tender has independent anchor (may share a bomber anchor point, but may not attach to system anchors) – Edge tender is tied into an adjustable tether before approaching the edge – Clears loose rocks and tripping hazards from the edge

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS EDGE TENDER 2. System Safety – Places ropes on appropriate edge protection – Assures ropes remain on edge protection.

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS EDGE TENDER 1. Attendant Safety – Assist attendant and stokes over the edge

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS EDGE TENDER 1. Attendant Safety – Weighting the system before going over the edge removes slack and stretch in the main line. 20’ of rope in operation, with a 2% stretch, will result in 3”-6” of sudden movement if the system is not weighted. • • • Tightening of knots Stretch of rope Rigging extension

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS EDGE TENDER – As attendant goes over the edge, the “Lower slow” used in approaching the edge should be slowed even more, – The upper body of the attendant is rotating through an arc. For a brief period, the feet are neither moving back nor moving down.

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS EDGE TENDER – Communicates with, and for, the attendant at the edge. Halts system 1 meter from edge for tensioning Edge Tender “STOP!” Ops Leader “Why Stop? ” “Attendant tension the system” <attendant weights system> “Lower slow” “Lowering slow” “Attendant at the edge” “Lower slow” <attendant rotates over edge>

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS EDGE TENDER – Provides voice communication between Ops Leader and Attendant to relay changes in speed control – Observes the path of the rope to detect additional rope hazards requiring edge pro

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS ADJUSTABLE EDGE TENDER LEASH • 8 mm Accessory cord – Attached to independent anchor – Attached to harness with Figure-8 on a bight and locking carabiner • 6 mm prusik cord – Attached to 8 mm cord with prusik – Attached to harness with Figure-8 on a bight and locking carabiner

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY LINE COMMUNICATIONS • “ON BELAY” » “BELAY ON” Is the belay ready? Yes, the belay is ready • “SLACK IN THE BELAY LINE” » “SLACK IN THE BELAY LINE” • “TENSION IN THE BELAY LINE” » “TENSION IN THE BELAY LINE” • “OFF BELAY” » “BELAY OFF”

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS MAIN LINE COMMUNICATIONS • “MAIN LINE READY? ” Is the main line ready? » “MAIN LINE IS READY” Yes, the main line is ready • “LOWER SLOW” » “LOWER SLOW” • “RAISE SLOW” » “RAISE SLOW” • “LOWER FASTER” » “LOWER FASTER” • “RAISE FASTER” » “RAISE FASTER”

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS COMMUNICATIONS • “STOP” » “WHY STOP” All Activity Stops All Devices are Set

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS COMMUNICATIONS Roll Call OPS: “Stand by for roll call” OPS: “On belay? ” BELAYER: “Belay on” OPS: “Main line ready? ” MAINLINE: “Main line ready on four bars” OPS: “Edge tender ready? ” BELAYER: “Edge Tender ready” OPS: “Attendant ready? ” ATTENDANT: “Attendant ready” OPS: “Medic ready? ” MAINLINE: “Medic ready”

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY COMPETENCE DROP TEST CRITERIA • British Columbia Council on Technical Rescue de facto standard Belay Competence Drop Test Criteria – 200 kg (440 lb) mass – 1 meter (3. 28 feet) fall – 3 meters (9. 84 feet) rope – < 1 meter (3. 28 feet) arrest distance – Maximum 15 k. N (3, 375 lb) peak impact force This test also calls for the maximum force transmitted through the system to the anchor point to be no greater than 15 k. N (3, 375 lbf. )

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY COMPETENCE DROP TEST CRITERIA • Edge Transition is the Worst Case Scenario – – – Slippage through the belay device Tightening of knots Stretch of rope Prussic extension Rigging extension

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOAD RELEASE HITCH

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOAD RELEASE HITCH • The Radium 3: 1 Load Release Hitch (LRH) allows the load on a rope grab to be transferred to another device • The LRH is used in conjunction with a tandem prusik belay OR The LRH is used in conjunction with a Progress Capture Device (PCD) •

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOAD RELEASE HITCH • Before employing the LRH be certain that the load is being transferred to a secure anchor • If there is any doubt regarding the safety of an impact loaded LRH, it should be retired

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOAD RELEASE HITCH HOW TO TIE • Attach a Figure-8 on a bight to the Load-side carabiner • Place the Figure-8 close to the carabiner spine • Bring the standing part of the cord up through the Anchorend carabiner • Place the standing part close to the carabiner spine

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOAD RELEASE HITCH HOW TO TIE • Bring the cord back through the Lode-side carabiner • Place the cord on the Gate side of the Figure-8

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOAD RELEASE HITCH HOW TO TIE Bring the cord back to the Anchorside and tie a Munter hitch on the Gate side Tie the Munter Hitch in the Release position with the standing end on the Gate side

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOAD RELEASE HITCH HOW TO TIE Secure the LRH by forming a mule knot around all three cords • Position the mule knot against the Munter hitch • Provides a 3: 1 mechanical advantage • Can hold heavy loads without tightening

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS IMPROPER BELAY DEVICES

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS IMPROPER BELAY DEVICES

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS IMPROPER BELAY DEVICES

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS Kurt Bandilla

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS • Brake Bar Rack – Standard for MRT Lowering systems – A U-Shaped frame – A series of bars – Hyper-bar • Tie Off • Add Friction

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS • Advantages – Allows friction to be varied, even when loaded – Does not twist rope – Can be easily attached to a rope without detaching from anchor – Can use two ropes – Can use varying sized ropes

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS • Disadvantages – Bulkier and heavier than other lowering devices – May take slightly longer to load the rope

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS • Other Considerations – Eye may be oriented 90 o – Rope should pass over the loading groove – Welded eye on the frame is rated over 10, 000 lbs. (44 k. N)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS • Other Considerations – Bars may be aluminum or steel – Bars come in a variety of shapes – Only use bars designed for your brake bar – Assure you are using a rescue rated brake bar rack

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS • Set up your anchor or check to assure that an established anchor is adequate • Equipment that will be used later is attached to the anchor plate

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS • Tie a figure-8 in the end of the rope and clip to the large hole in the anchor plate with a locking carabiner • This assures the rope does not leave unexpectedly if someone pulls the rope before the system is complete

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS • To have the lowering system pass the whistle test, tie an 8 mm prusik hitch to the anchor plate with a load release hitch • The disadvantage is having to mind the prusik

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS • Rig the rope through the brake bar • Advise Ops Leader, “Main Line Ready to Lower!” • Lock off the Brake Bar if it is to be unattended for any length of time

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS • Tying Off

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS LOWERING SYSTEMS • Brake Bar tie-off using the hyper-bar • Demonstrate Tie-off of Brake Bar without hyper-bars

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE REVIEW

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS • Gravity = Weight – 1 k. N = 224. 81 lbf – 1 Person ≈ 1 k. N – 2 Person ≈ 2 k. N – 3 Person ≈ 3 k. N

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS – The average rescuer can hold or apply a. 2 k. N force with one hand (≈ 45 lbs) – The average rescuer can hold or apply a. 4 k. N force with two hands (≈ 90 lbs) – Hauling an rope ‘hand-overhand’ is applying a force of 45 -50 lbs

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS • Impulse (force of impact) – The average reaction time to a failure or rope movement is 1 sec – In 1 sec a 1 k. N load will travel 16 feet – The 1 k. N load will be traveling 21. 8 mph – A fall of 16 ft on 85 ft of static rope will result in an impact force of 13. 5 k. N (3035 lbs)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS BELAY INCOMPETENCE CRITERIA • Falls on a static rope – Fatal falls on a static belay line would be the result of belayers not paying attention – What happens at 12 k. N?

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS Pulley Types: • Fixed pulley – Provides change of direction ONLY

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS Pulley Types: • Movable pulley – Adds Mechanical Advantage

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS • The longest distance a pulley system can be stretched, the distance from the anchored pulley to the moving pulley, is called the stroke. • The longer the stroke, the more useful the MA system.

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS • If the terminal end of a haul line is attached to the anchor, the simple pulley system will be EVEN • 2: 1, 4: 1, 6: 1, 248: 1

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS • If the terminal end of a haul line is attached to the anchor, the simple pulley system will be EVEN • 1: 1, 3: 1, 5: 1, 115: 1

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS RAISING SYSTEMS Clark Wurzberger

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS RAISING SYSTEMS • Hauling without the aid of a system is a Mechanical Advantage of 1: 1 • Also known as the Armstrong Method

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS RAISING SYSTEMS • Our simplest system is the Simple 2: 1 Mechanical Advantage • Components are: – Rope – One pulley

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS RAISING SYSTEMS • Our basic haul system is the simple 3: 1 Mechanical Advantage • Components are: – Rope – Two (2) pulleys – One (1) rope grab

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS RAISING SYSTEMS • With the addition of a single pulley, the 3: 1 is converted to a 5: 1 Mechanical Advantage • Components are: – Rope – Four (4) pulleys

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS RAISING SYSTEMS • Piggybacking the simple 2: 1 onto the simple 3: 1 provides a compound 6: 1 Mechanical Advantage

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS RAISING SYSTEMS Setting and Resetting the System Once the haul team has collapsed the system, it must be reset to its maximum length so hauling can continue Haul Prusik reaches Progress Capture Device (PCD) Main Line Lead: “Stop. . . Resetting” PCD is set by Haul Team Member setting PCD: “Set” Haul Team Member fully extends the throw of the system Haul Team Member extending system: “Reset” OPS: “Raise Slow” Do NOT use the words “Reset” or “Resetting” while actually extending the system. Only use the word “Reset” when the task is fully completed.

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS RAISING SYSTEMS • Piggybacking the simple 2: 1 onto the simple 5: 1 provides a compound 10: 1 Mechanical Advantage

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING THE SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING THE SYSTEMS • Work on only one line at a time • Change the Main Line first, then the Belay Line • Wait for direction from the Ops Leader before you do anything. • Don’t anticipate a change to the system

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING THE SYSTEMS • Communicate – Tell the Ops Leader what you are doing, before you do it

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING THE SYSTEMS • Throughout the conversion, the system load will be on the Main Line. • The Belay line will be locked off or continually tended

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING LOWER TO RAISE • Step 1 – Assure you have the equipment you will need • One Pulley • One Progress Capture Device (PCD)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING LOWER TO RAISE • Step 2 – Lock off your lowering device

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING THE SYSTEMS • Step 2 – Attach your Progress Capture Device (PCD)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING LOWER TO RAISE • Step 3 – Unlock the lowering device and load the PCD • Step 4 – Attach the pulley to the LRH and rig the pulley

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING LOWER TO RAISE • Step 5 – Assemble your Haul pulley onto the running end of the rope • Step 6 – Assemble your Rope Grab Device

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING LOWER TO RAISE • Step 5 – Attach your Rope Grab Device • Advise Ops Leader, “Main Line Ready to Haul!”

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING RAISE TO LOWER • Step 1 – Assure you have the equipment you will need • One Brake Bar Rack

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING RAISE TO LOWER • Step 2 – Lower the Load onto the Progress Capture Device (PCD) – Remove the pulley and Rope grab and attach to the anchor plate

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING RAISE TO LOWER • Step 3 – Load the lowering device and lock it off • Step 4 – Use the Load Release Hitch to transfer the load to the lowering device

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS REVERSING RAISE TO LOWER • Step 5 – Remove the Progress Capture Device – Retie the LRH • Step 6 – Prepare to Lower • Advise Ops Leader, “Main Line Ready to Lower!”

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS • Tomorrow 07: 30 • 24 hour packs – – – Helmet Harness Gloves Orange Shirts / Green pants Lunch Water