POCHAMPALLY HANDLOOM PARK Pochampally Positioning The Brand H

POCHAMPALLY HANDLOOM PARK Pochampally Positioning The Brand H K CHARI

GI Experience from Pochampally Handloom Cluster n Contents of the Presentation n n n Introduction to Cluster Products constraints Initiative to protect Art GI as a tool for Mkt. Promotion Emerging the concept of Handloom Park

Pochampally - Introduction n Cluster Significance Natural Cluster of its Kind n Known as Bhoodan Pochampally n Tie & dye is the specialty n Over 2000 traditional pit looms n Over 5000 Artisans n

Products n Known for Pochampally Ikat sarees – Silk & Cotton n Bed sheets n Home Furnishing n Dress Materials n

Cluster Status n Growth Experienced steady growth over six decades n Started declining trend n n Limited Market Efforts n Near stagnancy in weavers’ skills n Lead to pile up of huge stocks –reached a state of stand sill

Constraints n n Traditional looms (pit) coupled with drudgery for weavers Low productivity and inadequate earnings Conventional production range and weak marketing links Insufficient work & disguised unemployment

Status n Socio-economic Estimated that 50% of the families living below poverty line n 25% of the families with acute poverty n Fear of serious problems of under consumption – might lead to starvation death, if the market does not alter in the near future n

Causes Lack of proper efforts to protect Pochampally Art n Absence/poor linkage with Inst. /Orgns. n Limited exposure n No linkage with Exps. /boutiques n Poor market Strategy n No efforts for Brand/Label promotion n

The Initiative to Protect Pochampally Ikat

The Genesis of the Idea n The Weavers Problem – “ The Mills/PLs Copying their Designs” n Textiles Committee under its CDP, initiated to look at how IP Can be leveraged and whether this can be one of the problem solving Instruments.

Objectives of the assignment n n n Protecting the name “POCHAMPALLY IKAT” Preventing the unauthorized use of the name “POCHAMPALLY IKAT” Identifying and Providing suitable Intellectual Property Rights protection i. e. thorough the Geographical Indication act Promotion of ‘ POCHAMPALLY IKAT ’ as a brand Creating IPR awareness amongst the weavers and the tangible benefits of Intellectual Property Rights Protection Policy formulation of identifying natures / types of violations and proposed action for IPR enforcement

Modus Operandi n n Identifying the team for the assignment Interactive and Awareness Sessions Study & Documentation Identifying the applicants

Modus Operandi n n n Identifying the Uniqueness Financial Support Technical & Legal Support Draft of the Specifications Filing & Prosecution

Uniqueness of Pochampally Ikat Consists of fabric : a) made by a process of tying and dying the yarn prior to weaving b) Mainly cotton or silk or a combination of both c) Originating from the geographical region of agenda & Warangal districts in the state of AP n

Uniqueness of Pochampally Ikat n n n Having single, combined or double Ikat in several illustrations : The use of diamond or chowka Diagonal or square grids in which geometrical, floral figurative motifs are woven Striped or shevaron forms Other abstract variations

The Statement of Case – Highlights of the Manufacturing Process

Pochampally Ikat Art process The process of making Pochampally Ikat involves tying and dyeing the threads in a visualized design after and as per which the fabric will be woven.

Final Product

What followed next ----

Filing of the application The application for GI Registration was filed on 15 Dec 2003. n The applicants : n Pochampally Handloom Weavers’s Co –op Society ltd n Pochampally Handloom Tie & Dye Silk Sarees Manufacturer’s association n

Visit of the Expert Committee The Committee n n Controller General – Registrar Joint registrar Asst Registrar Textile Experts

Recommendations n n Fine tuning the Statement of Case Map of Nalgonda & Warangal Logo of Pochampally Ikat Class of Goods under which the Ikat Can be registered

Publication in the Gazette The application was published in the Government of India Gazette for public information/ opposition on September 1 2004 n The opposition period expired on December 2004 n

Award of the GI Registration n Pochampally Ikat was awarded the GI Registration on 31 December 2004

Milestones Achieved It was the first GI application to be granted in the Textile Sector/Handicraft industry n It was second GI registered after Darjeeling tea n The entire process of registration was completed in a span of 12 Months n

n GI AS TOOL for Market Promotion

Immediate Benefits Perceived – Post GI Registration n n n n Media attention – Pochampally Artisans Motivation & Morale boost for Weavers Increase in the Market of Pochampally Sarees – 15% – 20%. Over the Internet Sales by an Individual – Rs. 3. 0 Lakhs Networking among the weavers --- Pochampally Ikat Weavers Pvt. Ltd -- Ikat Art Pvt. Ltd -- Handloom Park Proactive Support from Govt. of AP GI Committee in State More GI initiatives from AP in Pipeline

What next Enforcement of the Geographical Indications for preventing Copying & Passing Off n Identifying the Infringers & take necessary action n Establishing the legal identity in the international market n

Enforcement of GI Rights n n Formation of State level/ District level committee Objectives of the Committee : n n To Leverage on the registered GI- Pochampally Ikat for the benefit of weavers & enable them to use it as a competitive tool for socio-economic prosperity To facilitate co-ordinate action with the involvement of State Enforcement Machinery and combat counterfeit Pochampally products in the market and prevent unauthorised use of the word- Pochampally Ikat.

Contd. . . Objectives n To strive for the revitalisation and emancipation of Pochampally Ikat brand image in both domestic and international markets n To create awareness among the stakeholder and end users about the tangible benefits of GI and to motivate them to make the best use of it. n Facilitate a mechanism for upholding th qualitative aspects of Pochampally Ikat through technical interference. n To create a niche in the country about the Pochampally Ikat among the policy makers, bureaucrats and stakeholders of GI n To develop a database of possible infringers of Pochampally Ikat.

Contd. . . n Leveraging the benefits of GI &to protect Weavers from Infringement of GI n Create Identity of Pochampally Ikat in National & International Market n Caution notices to the Infringers n Collecting Information on the Infringers n Infringement Suits n Ensuring Minimum Quality Inspection Standards

GI as a brand - effected in Emerging of Local Brands n Chikat

G I as Brand n Ikat Art

G I as Brand Concept of Handloom Park

About PHPL n n n First of its kind with dedicated handloom production facility with 2000 plus looms under one roof Associated with renowned designers Production by artisans with sharpened skills by way of committed and continuous practical training Capacity of 40 lakh mtrs. of cotton and silk products per annum Professional support of IL &FS as Project Management Consultant

• PHPL Mission • to develop consensus-based vision for the cluster as a whole • to coordinate their actions and pool their resources • create an autonomous private sector led local governance framework

Location n n Spread over 24 acres 60 kms. From Hyderabad on NH 9 Very good road, , rail and air connectivity Covering 40 villages – well known cluster of Pochampally Ikat

Nalgonda District in Andhra Pradesh Pochampally Mandal

Infrastructure n n n n Mechanisation in pre-wvg. Modern dyg. Process house State of art testing lab Exclusive design lab with R&D 2000 plus handlooms with 40 lakh mtrs. Per annum Dedicated training center Physical and Social infrastructure to facilitate high value/volume products

Planned Production Capacity: S. No. Activity Production Capacity In lakh meters per annum 35 1 Cotton weaving 2 Silk weaving 5 Total 40

Socio-economic significance - Pochampally Handloom Park n n n Sustainable direct employment to over 5000 artisan families Prevents the migration of rural people to urban areas for employment and work Sustain & strengthen traditional art & skills Modernization In Dyeing & mechanization in Pre-Weaving process without imbalance to environment Technology up-gradation on looms to reduce sound pollution, drudgery & to enhance productivity

Park Concept Technology R&D Capacity building for modernized handloom production Modernized Pre-wvg. Self sufficient with State of the Art infrastructure Exploring the Market Modernized Dyeing Modernized Handlooms. Training in Modernized Process PPP modeled SPV to own, produce & sell Widening the production base & its Quality Full time – Sustainable Emp.

Exploring Export Market Base n n n Encouraging response for Pochampally Ikat products in International Trade Fairs Messay – Mumbai -07 & Messay-Frankfurt - 08 More & more enquiries for Pochampally ikat Products Samples order production is in full swing

Expanding Domestic Market Base n Park Launching innovative Pochampally Ikat product range Through exclusive exhibitions n n schedules for 2008 – 2009 City n n n Kolkata Mumbai Chennai Delhi Bangalore Festival Puja Diwali Pongal Holi Ugadi Period October 08 Novem. 08 Jan 09 March 09 April 09

About Pochampally Ikat n Media n Ikat -- To dye for n n Designers used Pochampally Ikat technique in their collections n n n Indian Express – 2 nd June 2008 Richard Bilson, Kristen Beil and Katherine Heigi. Designers Zara, Oscar De La Renta and Kazo What they say n n n “The prints are bold and make a strong statement. Ikat prints are perfect for summer” - designer Nandita Mahtani Ikat played a vital role in the lives of Indian peoples. Get to know ikat, the fabric of the past, present and future. See it, fell it and wear it. - Ishita Yadav & Swati Sharma

n Thanks for Listening