Patternmaking Principles Flat Patternmaking Process Working pattern Any

Patternmaking Principles

Flat Patternmaking Process Working pattern: • Any pattern used as a base for manipulation when generating design patterns. Pattern plot: Pattern manipulation: Test fit: • Placing lines on a • Slashing and • A process where traced copy of the spreading or fitting problems working pattern pivoting a pattern are located and relating directly to to alter its original corrected. the design shape. features. The lines • The new pattern are used as shape represents guidelines for design features of pattern the garment. manipulation. Design pattern: • The finished pattern that contains all the features related to the design.

Three Flat Patternmaking Principles Design analysis Major Principles • Identifying which principles and techniques to apply • #1 Dart manipulation – to develop correct pattern shapes – Result: 3 D replica of the design – (relocating darts) • #2 Adding fullness – (adding more fabric in the design) • #3 Contouring – (fitting to the hollows of a model's figure)

Principle #1 Dart Manipulation • Changing the location of a dart within the pattern frame. • REMEMBER: – The dart is responsible for fit – The dart will ALWAYS be part of the design in one form or another

Principle #2 Added Fullness • Applies when design fullness is greater than the dart excess can provide. • Added fullness is not directed to the pivotal point (bust). • Adding to the pattern's outline also indicates that added material is needed for the design.

Principle #3 Contouring • Fitting to the contour above, below, and between the bust, leaving the dart excess to be absorbed into stylelines or gathers. • Gapping ease caused by cutout neck lines and armholes is transferred to be absorbed.

PRINCIPLE # 1 DART MANIPULATION—BODICES

How to Manipulate Darts • Two methods (same result) – Pivot – Slash & spread • Pivot point: – Designated point on the pattern (e. g. bust point). – Pattern is slashed to, or pivoted from, this point. – Allows dart to be moved without changing the pattern’s size or fit. • Dart point • Dart leg • Dart intake

Corollary to Principle #1—Dart Equivalent • A dart can be converted into: – Pleats – Tuck-darts – Gathers • functions as a dart • fit is not adversely affected

Demonstration of Principle #1 Dart Manipulation: Bodices (Ch. 4): Front Bodices: Back Bodices: • 1. Single-dart manipulation • 5. Shoulder Dart Multidispersion p. 85 • 6. Back Neck Dart p. 86 • 7. Dart Excess Transferred to Armhole p. 86 – (slash and spread) – Mid-Shoulder Dart p. 79 • 2. Single-dart manipulation – (pivot) – Side Dart p. 82 • 3. Double-dart manipulation – (slash and spread) – Mid-Shoulder and Waist Dart p. 92 • 4. Double-dart manipulation – (pivot) – Shoulder-Tip and Waist Dart p. 95

PRINCIPLE # 1 DART MANIPULATION—SKIRTS

Flexibility of Skirt Darts • Darts may be – Pivoted – Combined – Converted into dart equivalents • Pleats • Tuck darts • Gathers

Skirt Dart Manipulation • Transferring dart excess to hemline – A-line skirt • One dart converted to flare – Flared skirt • Two darts converted to flare

Demonstration of Principle #1 Dart Manipulation: Skirts (pgs. 230 – 244) Front and Back Skirts: • 1. Curved Darts p. 233 • 2. One Dart p. 243 • 3. A-line Flared p. 239 -240 – (slash and spread) • 4. Flared p. 244 – (pivot) Example: Combined Dart (One Dart)

Review Question • What is a principle? – A changeable fact – A fact that does not change – The head of a school – All are correct • A fact that does not change

Review Question • What is a corollary? – – Capillaries A type of fabric An adjunct to a principle All are correct • An adjunct to a principle

Review Question • What is the primary purpose of a dart? – – To create designs It has no purpose To cause fitting problems To take up unneeded excess • To take up unneeded excess

Review Question • Where do basic darts usually appear? – Dominant areas of the figure – Wherever creative effect is needed – No particular location – Everywhere • Dominant areas of the figure

Review Question • Where is the dart excess • Armhole located in basic casual garments? – – Hemline Neckline Armhole Dart is ignored

Review Question • In what direction does • Downward the side dart excess lay? – – Upward No particular direction Downward All directions are correct

Review Question • What is a dart point? – Damage in the fabric – The end of a stitched dart – There is no such point – The same thing as a bust point • The end of a stitched dart

Review Question • What is a dart equivalent? – It has no meaning – More excess than needed – It functions as a dart – Multiple darts • It functions as a dart