PATTERN DEVELOPMENT Pattern Types and Pattern Making Process

PATTERN DEVELOPMENT Pattern Types and Pattern Making Process

Key Concepts and Terms �Apparel Design Technical Pack (Tech Pack) �Block Pattern �CAD-Computer Aided Design �Costing �Design Details �Design Samples �Drafting a Pattern �Flat Pattern �Garment Cost Sheet �Grading

Key Concepts and Terms �Logistics �Pattern Maker �Pattern Specification Sheet �Production Samples �Prototype �Retail �Reverse Engineered Pattern �Sloper Pattern �Sourcing �Tariffs �Wholesale

Pattern Making Process • • Create a pattern for a garment or an apparel product. Consider the design details. Select the materials (fabrication and trims) Construct the sample (prototype) Fit, revise and finalize the sample Create an apparel technical design pack Prepare pattern for mass production

Creating a Pattern �Designers begin by creating a 2 D or 3 D pattern, utilizing one or more of the pattern making methods: �Flat �Drafting �Reversed Engineered �Draping �Computer Generated

Types of 2 D Pattern Making Methods � Flat Pattern- A pattern is created by using an existing foundation pattern known as a sloper or a block. � Sloper (Home Sewing Industry term) or Block (Apparel Manufacturing Industry term) custom fitted basic pattern based on individual or companies standard size measurements from which other patterns can be made.

Types of 2 D Pattern Making Methods �Drafting a Pattern- Patterns are created by using measurements of an existing garment, an individual, or body form. Pattern is then drawn on paper utilizing the body measurements. �Drafting a Pattern: You Tube Video �Reverse Engineering a Pattern- Patterns are created by deconstructing an existing garment. It is taken apart, analyzed, and new pattern pieces are created.

Types of 3 D Pattern Making Methods �Draping- A garment is created by molding, cutting, and pinning fabric on an individual or a dress form. It is the oldest method of pattern making. �Computer Generated Patterns- Computer-aided design (CAD) software is used to produce patterns for textiles, apparel and other products. Image Source: www. lucianagrimaldi. com

Consider Design Details Dress Styles: � Collar Styles: Shirt, Button Down, Sailor, Convertible, Sheath, Shift, A-line, Tent, Peter Pan, Chelsea, Bertha, Empire, or Lower waistline Mandarin, Band, Crewneck, � Other Dress Styles: Princess, Turtleneck, Shawl, Bow Tie, Blouson, Shirtwaist, Coatdress, Stock , Jabot Asymmetrical, Jumper or � Sleeve Types: Set-in, Kimono, Sundress Raglan � Neckline Styles: Decollete , Jewel, Boat, Scoop, Horseshoe, � Set-In Sleeves Types: Bishop, Pleasant, Bell, Lantern, Cape, Cowl, Raised, Square, V, Off Shirt, Puff, Melon, Cowl, Petal, , the Shoulder, Sweetheart, and Roll-up, Leg-o-Mutton, Keyhole. Shirred, Juliette, and Two� Shirt Styles: Dress, Sport, Piece Tailored Polo, Western, T-shirt, Tank, Fitted, Hawaiian, Tunic, Tuxedo, Camisole, and Henley � �

Consider Design Details � Kimono Sleeve Types: Shorts, and Shorts, With Gusset, Dolman, � Other Pant Styles Include: Batwing Gauchos, knickers, and � Raglan Sleeve Types: Culottes Raglan to center front, � Jacket Styles: Trench, Raglan-Princess, and Blazer, Fitted, Tuxedo, Saddle Sleeve Design Cardigan, Parka, Poncho, Cape, Safari, Pea, � Skirt Styles: Straight, AWindbreaker, Norfolk, line, Flared, Circular, Full, Chanel, Bolero, and Box Pleated, Gathered, Dirndl, Gored, Umbrella, and Wrap � Pockets- Patch, Inseam, � Pant Styles: Tapered, Welt, Flap Straight, Flared, Jean, Palazzo, Harem, Bermuda

Selecting The Materials and Costing �Once a design is created and the pattern is engineered, the materials (fabrication and trims) are sourced. (Consider wholesale vs. retail when sourcing materials. ) Other variables may include: labor, logistics, tariffs, shipping costs etc. �Preliminary costing is completed to insure profitability. �Costing Considerations- fabrics, trims, design details, and labor costs.

Construct the Sample �Sample garments (prototypes) are created by sample makers. �Sample makers must be skilled in a variety of sewing construction techniques. �They work closely to insure fit and design integrity. �Fashion fabric is used to create a sample garment.

FIT, REVISE, AND FINALIZE THE PATTERN �Use a mannequin or a live model to check the fit and styling of the sample garment. �Revise garment fit until it is correct. Photo Source: gardnerstreetvintage. tumblr. com

Apparel Design Technical Pack �The Apparel Design Technical (Tech) Packs are created after the sample garment has been finalized. �Create Your Own Tech Pack- You Tube Video �The tech packs are specific information about the design and should include the following: 1. Detailed flat sketch with front and back views. Should include topstitching, pocket and button placement, placement of contrast fabrications, hem and band widths, label placement etc.

Apparel Design Technical Pack � 2. Directions for any special fabric direction or matching. For example borders, napped fabric etc. � 3. Any special seam allowances, decorative or standard topstitching, stitch length, thread type and color. � 4. Include samples of fabrics and trims. Clearly indicate what is Self, Contrast, Trim, and Lining fabrics. � 5. Measurement details. � 6. Care Instructions for labeling � 7. Color details and season information

Sample of an Apparel Design Technical Pack Season. Style #Body Measurements Hardware and Trim Fabrication and Color Swatch of Fabrics Date. Designer. Technical Sketchinclude design and construction details Care Label Information Comments

Prepare Pattern For Mass Production �Once a sample pattern has been approved for size, costing, availability of materials, and potential profit; it is used for production samples and samples for sales promotion. �The approved pattern is graded into smaller and larger sizes usually by computer but can be done by hand. �Final fabric selections and trims are ordered by suppliers.