Pants Chapter 26 Bifurcated Divided into two parts

Pants Chapter 26

Bifurcated: • Divided into two parts (right and left sides).

Pant Terminology • Crotch extension: An extension of the crotch line at center front and back center lines that provides coverage for the inside part of the leg. • Crotch point: End of the crotch extension. • Crotch level: Dividing line separating the torso from the legline of the pant. (The total width across the pant from the front crotch point to the back crotch point. ) • Outseam: Side seam joining the front and back pants. • Inseam: Seam between the legs joining the front and back pants.

Parts of a Pant Part 1: Foundation Part 2: Legline • From waist to crotch level • Vary in fit around the abdomen and buttocks • Fit is controlled by the length of the crotch extension • Below crotch level • Can be any length, width, or shape desired

The Pant Foundations: • Culottes foundation: – An A-line silhouette distinguished by looseness at crotch level. • Trouser foundation: Culottes – A pant that hangs straight from the hip and fits closer than does the culotte. • Slack foundation: – A pant that fits slightly under the buttocks. • Jean foundation: Trouser – A pant that contours the buttocks and upper leg line. Jean

Pant Lengths of Pant Derivatives • Derivatives: Adaptations from an original source (p. 613). – Shorts: • A pant length that is two inches below crotch level. – Jamaica: • A pant length halfway between crotch and knee. – Bermuda: • A pant length halfway between Jamaica and knee. Bermuda Short

Pant Lengths of Pant Derivatives • Derivatives: Adaptations from an original source. – Pedal-pusher: • A pant length two inches down from the knee. – Toreador: • A pant length halfway between knee and ankle. – Capri: • A pant length one inch above ankle. . Capri Pant

Measure the Form for the Pant Draft Vertical Length Measurements • Waist to: – Ankle – Floor – Mid-knee • Crotch: Base of the torso where the legs join the body. • Crotch length • Crotch depth – Rise: A tailor's term referring to crotch depth. • Vertical trunk: Circumference Measurements • • Waist arc Hip arc Upper thigh Mid-thigh Knee Calf Ankle Foot entry:

Front: Waist Arc • (19) Center front waist to side waist.

Back: Waist Arc • (19) Center back waist to side waist seam

Front: Dart Placement • (20) Center front to side front princess line.

Back: Dart Placement • (20) Center back waist to side back (princess line).

Skirt/Pant: Abdomen Arc • (22) Center front to side seam, starting 3 inches down from the waist. • (22) Center back to side seam, starting 3 inches down from the waist.

Skirt/Pant: Hip Arc • (23) Center front to side seam on HBL line. • (23) Center back to side seam on HBL line.

Pant: Crotch Depth • Form: With a square ruler in place, measure from waist level to crotch level (not to the end of the ruler).

Skirt/Pant: Hip Depth CF/CB • (25) Center front to HBL line. • (25) Center back to HBL line.

Skirt/Pant Vertical Measurements: Side Hip Depth • (26) Side waist to HBL, on side of form being measured. • Measure both side (see #26), if measurements differ more than 1/8 inch, the hip is asymmetrical

Pant: Waist to Knee • (27) Waist to knee measurement

Pant: Waist to Ankle • (27) Waist to ankle measurement

Pant: Waist to Floor • 27) Waist to floor measurement

Pant: Crotch Length • (28) Center front under crotch to center back.

Pant: Vertical Trunk • (28) Front to back at shoulder/neck passing under crotch.

Pant: Upper Thigh • (29) Circumference around the leg. Near crotch base.

Pant: Mid-Thigh • (29) Circumference around the leg. Measure at a point ½ way between crotch and knee.

Pant: Knee • Knee (30). Circumference around the leg. Measure at a point mid-level of knee cap / bend.

Pant: Calf • (31) Circumference around the leg. Measure at widest part below the knee.

Pant: Ankle • (32) Circumference around the leg. Measure at widest part the ankle.

Pant: Foot Entry • Measure around the heel and instep of the foot.

Review Questions • A pant foundation is determined by the length of the hip depth. • False • Crotch extension controls the style of the hemline. • False • The foundation of a pant is from waist to crotch level. • True • Pant style is designed from crotch level to knee. • False • Waist to crotch level is the hip depth. • False

Review Questions • Crotch point is the beginning of the crotch extension. • False • Bifurcated means divided into two parts. • True • Rise is a tailor's name for crotch depth. • True • Another name for outseam is inseam. • False • Crotch depth, length, extension, level, and point are different. • True • Crotch depth establishes crotch level. • True • A short pant is not a derivative. • False