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Oregon Health Authority Health Licensing Office Board of Cosmetology Natural Hair Care Training Module Navigation Tip! Use the toggle button to expand the viewable area. 1

Table of Contents Natural Hair Care Procedures Prohibitions Certification Hair Defined Healthy Hair Functions Hair Structure Hair Growth Hair Characteristics Diseases and Disorders 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 -20 21 -24 25 -35 36 -61 Shampoo Conditioner Toxic Chemicals Styles and Techniques Wigs Facial Structure - Types Tools Oregon Laws and Rules Completion – Next Steps Examination Completion Certificate 62 -80 81 -89 90 -91 92 -107 108 -111 112 -115 116 -122 123 -163 164 165 -166 167 2

Natural Hair Care During the 2013 Legislative Session House Bill 3409 passed, creating Natural Hair Care as a field of practice under the Board of Cosmetology. During the 2019 Legislative Session Senate Bill 422 passed, adding shampooing and conditioning to the Natural Hair Care scope of practice. 3

Natural Hair Care - Procedures Natural Hair Care includes the following procedures when performed upon human hair, natural fibers or synthetic fibers: • Braiding • Cornrowing • Extending • Lacing • Locking • Sewing • Twisting • Weaving • Wrapping • Customized Wigs • Hair Extensions • Shampooing • Conditioning 4

Natural Hair Care - Prohibitions Natural Hair Care does not include penetrating chemical hair treatments such as: • Hair Coloring • Hair Straightening • Hair Joining • Permanent Wave Styles • Hair Bleaching • Chemical Hair Treatments 5

Natural Hair Care Certification There is no formal education (school) required to qualify for certification in Natural Hair Care. Individuals are required to complete this training module and pass a state prepared Natural Hair Care Written Examination. 6

Natural (human) Hair - Defined Natural (human) hair – an appendage of the skin which is a slender threadlike cylinder of impacted protein and keratinized cells that is an outgrowth of the epidermis layer. 7

Healthy Hair – Nutrition and Maintenance Hair is the reflection of an individuals physical, nutritional and emotional well being. A good balanced diet, exercise, and plenty of water will promote the beneficial properties of the blood and enhance the circulatory system that brings the necessary nutrients to the hair and scalp. 8

Hair Functions • Primary function - to insulate the body from the heat and cold and to protect the head from injury and physical trauma. • Secondary function - adornment. 9

Hair Structure A mature strand of human hair is divided into two parts: • Hair Root • Hair Shaft 10

Hair Structure - Hair Root The hair root is located beneath the skin surface and is the structure from which the hair grows, which contains five main parts. • Follicle • Arrector Pili Muscle • Sebaceous Glands • Bulb • Dermal Papilla 11

Hair Root - Follicle The follicle is a deep, angular, pocket-like depression in the scalp that encompasses the hair root and determines the hair’s texture and curl formation. 12

Hair Root - Arrector Pili Muscle The arrector pili muscle is an involuntary muscle attached to the underside of the follicle. The muscle is sensitive to fear or cold which causes it to contract. 13

Hair Root - Sebaceous Glands The sebaceous glands which are sac-like structures that provide the follicle with natural oils or sebum which adds luster and pliability to the hair and scalp. 14

Hair Root - Hair Bulb The hair bulb is an enlarged, thick, round structure located at the very bottom of the hair root which fits over and covers the papilla. 15

Hair Root – Dermal Papilla The dermal papilla is the cone shaped connective tissue underneath the hair follicle that is filled with an ample supply of rich blood and nerves and nourishes the hair and stimulates growth and regeneration. 16

Hair Structure - Hair Shaft The hair shaft, also known as the stem of the hair, that extends above the skins surface and is the portion that is seen and manipulated, consists of three main layers. • Cuticle • Cortex • Medulla 17

Hair Shaft - Cuticle The cuticle is the outer-most layer of the hair shaft which consists of flattened keratin cells and amino acids that protects and seals the inner structure of the hair. 18

Hair Shaft - Cortex The cortex is the middle layer of the hair shaft which is the thickest part of the shaft and is filled with melanin, keratin, protein cells, and microfibrils that gives hair its color, length, strength, resilience, and moisture content. 19

Hair Shaft - Medulla The medulla is the innermost core of the shaft which consists of sponge-like baggy cells that are found in thick, course hair and can be nonexistent in very thin, light-colored hair. 20

Hair Growth There are three distinct cycles to normal hair growth: • Anagen • Catagen • Telogen 21

Hair Growth - Anagen is the active growing phase when the bulb is moving up through the follicle and new hair is being produced. This phase can last up to seven years. 22

Hair Growth - Catagen Catogen is the transition or resting phase after years of growing when the hair cells stop reproducing and the hair begins to lose moisture and separates from the papilla. This phase can last up to two weeks. 23

Hair Growth - Telogen is the shedding or resting phase when the bulb is totally separate from the root and new hair cells divide and multiply creating a new hair shaft. This phase can last up to four months. 24

Hair Characteristics There are two general characteristics of hair differences. • Type • Texture 25

Hair Characteristics - Type Hair types are basic forms and general characteristics of hair fiber which are classified into four variations. • Straight - round • Wavy - oval to round • Curly - almost flat • Kinky or Coiled - flat and spiraled 26

Hair Characteristics - Texture Hair texture is the measurement and curl configuration of a hair fiber resulting from three characteristics. • Diameter • Porosity • Elasticity 27

Texture - Diameter refers to the size of the individual strands of hair and degree of coarseness, thickness, fineness or thinness. • Course hair - largest in diameter • Fine hair - smallest in diameter 28

Texture - Porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb moisture through the cuticle into the cortex. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle. • Low porosity - referred to as Hydrophobic. • High porosity - referred to as Hydrophilic. 29

Texture - Elasticity is the hair’s ability to stretch and return to its original size and shape without breaking. • Normal elasticity - springy and lustrous • Dry hair - stretches only 1/5 th its length • Wet hair - stretches up to 50% of its length 30

Hair Characteristics - Regions There are four bone structures on the cranium which results in the variation of hair texture. • Occipital • Parietal • Frontal • Temporal 31

Regions - Occipital is the bone that forms the back of the cranium indenting above the nape. The muscle in the occipital region is the occipitalis, it is the muscle that draws the scalp backwards Hair in the occipital region is tighter in its coil configuration in addition to being dryer, more brittle and easier to break. 32

Regions- Parietal is the two bones that form the sides and top of the cranium. Hair in the parietal region has a great variety of diverse textures. 33

Regions - Frontal is the bone that forms the forehead. The muscle in the frontal region is the frontalis, it is the muscle that raises the eyebrows and draws the scalp forward. Hair in the parietal region has a great variety of diverse textures. 34

Regions - Temporal is the two bones located on either side of the head directly above the ears. Hair in the temporal region displays a soft or fine coil, is less brittle, and the spiral pattern may vary from a very tight to loose or medium to large corkscrew pattern. 35

Diseases and Disorders Diseases and disorders may either be infectious, an allergic reaction to chemicals or an autoimmune response. Each disease or disorder has its own specific symptoms or conditions. Practitioners should look for any type of abnormalities of the scalp prior to providing services and advise the client to seek medical attention if necessary. 36

Diseases and Disorders Diseases and disorders can be accelerated by internal or external trauma such as stress or tension, hormonal imbalances, lack of proper cleansing or infrequent shampooing, or using shampoos with a high p. H. 37

Diseases - Fungus Fungal organisms are characterized by itching, scales and sometimes by painful circular lesions. The following forms of Fungus are contagious and can be easily transmitted from one person to another by the infected skin scales or hairs that contain the fungi which spread the disease. • Tinea Capitis • Tinea Favosa 38

Fungus - Tinea Capitis - red papules or spots at the opening of the hair follicle. Patches spread and the hair becomes brittle and lifeless, breaking off leaving a stump, or shed from the enlarged open follicles. Tinea Favosa (favus) - Dry, sulfur-yellow, cuplike crusts on the scalp, which have a peculiar odor, and can cause bald patches that may be pink or white and shiny. 39

Diseases - Parasites are living organisms that feed, grow and thrive on or in a host organism. The following parasites are contagious and can be easily transmitted from one person to another from contact with the infected hair and scalp by hats, combs, brushes and other personal articles. • Pediculosis Capitis (head lice) • Scabies (itch mite) 40

Parasites – Pediculosis Capitis and Scabies Pediculosis Capitis - head lice which feed on the scalp causing itching and when scratched can cause infection. Scabies - itch mites which burrow under the skin causing inflammation, blisters and pustules and when scratched can cause infection. 41

Diseases - Pathogenic Bacteria Pathogenic bacteria are harmful organisms that cause disease and infection when entering the body. Staphylococci is generally carried by one-third of the population and is the most common pus-forming organism that causes abscesses, pustules, and boils. Staphylococci can be picked up on work surfaces, unsterilized tools and implements as well as skin-toskin contact. 42

Disorders - Dermatitis There are two scalp disorders that manifest similar inflammatory and topical conditions. • Seborrheic dermatitis • Psoriasis dermatitis 43

Dermatitis - Seborrheic Dermatitis - a skin disorder or form of eczema caused by an inflammation of the sebaceous glands or an inflammatory reaction to some commonly used hair products. The scalp is red, inflamed and itchy with white, creamy, yeast-like film or patches that coat the scalp causing light flaking of dead skin cells resembling wet dandruff. 44

Dermatitis - Psoriasis Dermatitis - an inflammatory condition that results from an autoimmune disease of the skin. The scalp is red and irritated and covered with patches of silver-white scales. 45

Disorders - Pityriasis, also known as dandruff, is a microscopic fungus that feeds on the scalp’s natural oils and creates byproducts that cause irritation on the scalp. There are two types of Pityriasis: • Pityriasis Capitis Simplex • Pityriasis Steroids 46

Pityriasis - Simplex Pityriasis Capitis Simplex - classic dandruff The scalp is itchy, dry and flaky resulting in scattered skin cells which are visible flakes on the hair and shoulders. 47

Pityriasis - Steriods Pityriasis Steroids - severe dandruff similar to seborrhea dermatitis. The scalp is red and inflamed with large, greasy or waxy scales which are combined with sebum causing white creamy patches to stick to the scalp. When the scales are removed with a comb, bleeding or oozing of sebum may result. 48

Disorders - Alopecia is an autoimmune disorder that mistakenly attacks the hair follicle during the Anogen or Telogen growth phase, which causes abnormal hair loss, balding or reduced hair density. There are several types of alopecia depending upon the location on the head, how it evolves on the scalp and its underlying causes. 49

Alopecia – Totalis and Universalis Alopecia Totalis - small, round patches of hair loss progressing into total scalp hair loss. Alopecia Universalis - complete loss of body hair. 50

Alopecia - Androgenetic Alopecia - slow decrease in hair density with a reduced hair diameter; • In men it is generally located at the parietal front and progresses to a horseshoe-shaped outline at the crown of the head to the occipital area. • In women it is generally located at the crown of the head and at the temples. 51

Alopecia - Areata Alopecia Areata - sudden or sometimes unrecognized falling out of hair in patches or spots. These areas are usually lighter in color due to poor blood supply and will usually grow back. 52

Alopecia - Diffuse Alopecia - radical and sudden hair loss of the entire scalp followed by thinning of the hair density which affects both men and women but primarily young females. This hair loss is temporary and the hair will grow back as long as the hair follicle remains active. 53

Alopecia - Postpartum alopecia - temporary hair loss for three to nine months after pregnancy due to sudden changes in hormone levels returning to normal within a year. 54

Alopecia - Traction Alopecia - rapid permanent scarring or balding on the scalp due to continuous pulling of the hair too tightly over a long period of time resulting in the hair being literally pulled out of the follicle, taking out the hair root and bulb and destroying the hair shaft. This hair loss is most apparent in the frontal and temporal regions and can also affect the nape area. 55

Disorders - Canities is the term for graying hair which is a loss of natural pigment or melanin in the hair. There are three forms of canities: • Congenital • Acquired • Ringed Hair 56

Canities - Congenital Canities - due to lack of melanin in the hair which exists at or before birth and will occur in albinos and occasionally in people with normal hair. 57

Canities - Acquired Canities - due to the aging process, during the telogen phase the follicle and bulb shrink reducing the process of hair pigmentation or melanin. This may also occur prematurely as a result of genetics, prolonged anxiety, illness or diet. 58

Canities – Ringed Hair (salt and pepper) - another variety of canities, which is characterized by alternating bands of grey and pigmented hair throughout the length of the hair strand. 59

Disorders - Trichoptilosis are split ends of the hair which start as small cracks in the cuticle that deepen into the cortex. 60

Disorders – Trichorrhexis Nodosa is knotted hair which is a brush-like spreading out of the fibers of the broken-off hair along the hair shaft. It is a dry, brittle condition that includes formation of nodular swelling along the hair shaft and breaks easily. 61

Shampoo The object of shampooing is to effectively remove dirt and oil residue for the scalp; the shampoo will remove dirt and oil on the hair when it is rinsed. Understanding the chemical and botanical ingredients regularly found in shampoos is essential to determine which shampoo will leave your client’s hair in the best condition. 62

Shampoo - Ingredients Understanding ingredients is the key in selecting the proper shampoo, and understanding p. H levels will help determine which shampoo ingredients will leave the hair shiny and manageable, are effective in reducing dandruff, or relieving other scalp conditions. 63

Shampoo - Ingredients The amount of hydrogen in a solutions, which determines whether it is alkaline or acid, is measured on a p. H scale that has a range from 0 to 14. The p. H of a neutral solution, one that is neither acidic nor alkaline, is 7. A shampoo that is acidic will have a p. H ranging from 0 to 6. 9. A shampoo that is alkaline will have a p. H rating of 7. 1 or higher. The more alkaline the shampoo, the stronger and harsher it is, which can leave the hair dry, brittle , and porous. 64

Shampoo - Ingredients The first ingredient in most shampoos is water. The second most prominent ingredient is the base detergent or base surfactant. The third most common ingredient in shampoos counteracts or complements the negative characteristics of the original base detergent. 65

Ingredients - Water is the main ingredient in most shampoos, not just plain water, but purified or deionized water. Water that has had impurities such as calcium and magnesium and other metal ions that would make a product unstable removed. Water is the most abundant and important element on earth and is classified as a universal solvent because it is capable of dissolving more substances than any other solvent known to science. 66

Ingredients – Base Detergent Base detergent is the second most prominent ingredient in shampoo and is the cleansing or “surface acting” agent (surfactant). A surfactant molecule has two ends; a hydrophilic or water-attracting head, and a lipophilic or oilattracting tail that creates a push-pull process that causes the oils, dirt, and deposits to roll up into little balls to be rinsed from the hair. 67

Ingredients – Counteracting/Complimenting The third most common ingredient added to shampoos are ingredients that counteract or complement the negative characteristics of the original base detergent. Moisturizer is a common additive along with oil, proteins, preservatives, foam enhancers and perfume. 68

Shampoo - Classifications Shampoos have five very distinct classifications: • • • Detergent Mild (low) p. H Medicated Protein/conditioning Herbal/organic 69

Classifications – Detergents Detergent shampoo is usually high in p. H (potential hydrogen) or alkaline, which kills bacteria. Highalkaline products strip the hair’s natural oils. Detergent shampoos typically contain the following ingredients: • Anionic • Cationics • Monionics • Ampholytes or Amphoterics 70

Detergent - Anionics are high-foaming and have lots of suds, which tends to strip the hair of natural oils. Anionics can occasionally be too strong and irritating, due to the amount of sebum being removed from the hair. 71

Detergent - Cationics are made of quaternary ammonium compounds, or quats which have antibacterial characteristics, and are usually found in dandruff shampoos and in cleaning disinfectants. 72

Detergent - Manionics are detergents that emulsify well and usually have a mild cleansing agents which are gentle to the skin and cause little irritation to the scalp and eyes, however these products are boosted with ethonylated compounds to increase later, thickness and solubility. 73

Detergent – Ampholytes or Amphoterics are the mildest of detergents and claim not to strip natural oils from the hair and scalp. They contain germicidal or antiseptic characteristics and are often used in baby shampoos because they do not irritate the eyes or skin. 74

Classifications – Mild (Low) -p. H Low p. H shampoos are designed for the consumer who has dry, brittle, damaged hair. They contain milder cleansing agents that do not strip all natural sebum. 75

Classifications – Medicated shampoos contain special active ingredients that are effective in reducing dandruff or relieving other scalp conditions. In some cases, the shampoo must remain on the scalp for a longer period of time than other shampoos in order for the active ingredients to work. Most medicated shampoos are basic detergent shampoos with harsh, drying ingredients. 76

Classifications – Protein/Conditioning Protein, conditioning, and moisturizing are “esthetic” shampoos with little or no stripping effect on natural hair oils. Esthetic shampoos are usually composed of some of the milder surfactants with hydrolyzed animal proteins added to address split ends and damaged cuticles and increase hair elasticity. 77

Classifications – Protein/Conditioning Many protein, conditioning, and moisturizing shampoos are designed so they do not rinse out thoroughly and leave a deposit of film to add and seal moisture into the hair, in addition to containing sunscreen agents to protect from the damaging rays of the sun and harmful environmental elements. 78

Classifications – Herbal/Organic Real herbal or organic shampoos are not made with detergents or surfactants. The more basic herbal shampoos contain castile soap or black soap which are mixed with moisturizing or emollient herbs, or herbs that add an aromatic quality. Optional ingredients can be added to stimulate growth, reduce hair thinning and solving dandruff problems. 79

Shampoo – Alternatives The technique called co-washing is used as an alternative to using shampoo on the hair, by using conditioner instead. Co-washing , while adding moisture, does not really cleanse the hair. It does add moisture, conditions, and leaves the natural oils and sebum in place. 80

Conditioners are usually a mixture of distilled water with a mild acid, herbal, or oil base designed to benefit the hair in a particular way. Hair needs a conditioning agent to give it manageability, strength and luster, and to further cleanse the hair or scalp. 81

Conditioner – Acid Rinses neutralize or restore the p. H balance (acid mantle) to the hair, remove buildup from heavy cream shampoos and seal in nutrients by closing the cuticle layers of the hair shaft. Acid Rinses can be made of citric acids, such as lemon, lime, orange, grapefruit and cactus juice. Acidic aids are apple cider vinegar or distilled white vinegar. 82

Conditioner – Cream Rinses are temporary conditioning commercial products that are applied after the shampoo to soften, detangle, and add luster to the hair. Most cream rinses are very fragrant, having a creamy or pearlized appearance; the appearance is esthetic, but can cause problems and if used improperly can be harmful to the hair over time because of residue and coating buildup. 83

Conditioner – Leave-in conditioners are generally water-based liquid conditioners that are typically sprayed directly on the hair to moisten, protect and assist with detangling. Cream based leave-in conditioners are usually richer and more moisturizing than water-based conditioners and work well to control frizzy, dry hair and seal split ends. 84

Conditioner – Herbal Rinses Herbal rinses enhance the esthetic beauty of hair and make it easier to manage, are nutritional for the hair and scalp, and can help eliminate hair problems or correct the source of the problem, by replenishing the hair’s essential oils, vitamins and minerals. 85

Conditioner – Instant conditioners are quick, temporary treatments that generally coat and soften the hair in order to make it more manageable and give sheen and fullness to the hair. Some contain vitamins and botanicals, but are often combined with waxes and detergents that can damage hair, therefore having only cosmetic value. 86

Conditioner – Protein conditioners usually contain polymers used to recondition and strengthen the hair strand, are more concentrated and meant to stay on the hair for a longer period of time. Deep protein conditioners can help close split ends, improve porosity, as well as soften and lubricate the hair strand. 87

Conditioner – Moisturizing conditioners usually contain quaternary ammonium compounds which counteract the drying effect of anionic (harsh) detergents and enable the cream moisture to adhere to the hair strand protect the hair longer. Moisturizing conditioners are formulated to penetrate the hair, and with the application of heat or steam, they are more effective. 88

Conditioner – Techniques The technique called cold water conditioning is when cool water is used to rinse the conditioner out of the hair. Using cool water to rinse the conditioner out of the hair closes the pores and hair cuticle. Cool water seals in moisture, which in turn prevents frizz. 89

Hair Products – Toxic Chemicals There are several hair products that contain toxic ingredients. The following are just a few of the most common toxic ingredients found in hair products. • Parabens – used to stop the growth of bacteria; linked to breast cancer. • 1, 4 Dioxane – used in shampoos for babies and adults as a preservative – considered to have high carcinogenic effects. 90

Hair Products – Toxic Chemicals • Selenium sulfide – used in dandruff shampoos; considered very toxic. Reported to have some link to kidney, respirator, hear, liver and blood toxicity; considered a carcinogen. • Phthalates – a type of plastic used to moisturize and soften; linked to toxins that affect male reproductive and developmental abilities. 91

Styles and Techniques Natural, protective or transitional styles and techniques are used in Natural Hair Care. Some styles create a small amount of tension on the hair and if properly started should cause no pain, discomfort or irritation to the scalp. 92

Styles and Techniques - Damage If the following occurs to the natural hair, permanent damage may be caused: • Improper tension • Excessive amount of hair extensions • Braid styles worn too long 93

Styles and Techniques - Weaves Weave - a style achieved by adding hair, either natural or synthetic, to the existing hair to either protect, add a new dimension or cover balding or thinning spots. 94

Styles and Techniques - Extensions - a style achieved by securing wefts or strands of human hair, synthetic hair or a combination of both to the base of the client’s natural hair to add length, volume, texture and color. 95

Extensions - Natural Hair - Advantages: natural hair appears more realistic, has a greater durability and tolerance to heat from a blow dryer, curling iron or hot rollers and can be custom colored or permed to suit the client. Natural Hair - Disadvantages: natural hair reacts to exposure to light by fading, to humidity by either frizzing or losing its curl, and will break or split if mistreated by harsh brushing, backcombing, or excessive use of heat. 96

Extensions - Synthetic Hair - Advantages: synthetic hair is particularly strong and durable and can simulate natural hair with a lustrous look and feel, is generally less expensive than natural hair and the color is timeless. The style will not change with exposure to humidity. Synthetic Hair - Disadvantages: synthetic hair cannot be exposed to extreme heat. Coloring synthetic fibers is not recommended due to traditional hair colors not being compatible, and some synthetic hair is so shiny it looks unnatural. 97

Styles and Techniques - Afros Afro - a style of tight curls on long or short wavy, curly, coiled or highly textured hair. Afro-twist extensions - a style achieved when human or synthetic hair fibers are anchored to the natural hair with a braid-and-twist combination. Afro weave - a style achieved by attaching textured hair which is on a weft and sewing it to the designated cornrow with cotton thread. 98

Styles and Techniques - Braids Single braid - a style achieved when hair is divided into three equal sections that are intertwined or weaved into one single braid. Casamas braids - a style achieved when single, large extended braids, with a tight stitch, are tapered and/or curved at the ends. 99

Styles and Techniques - Braids Cornrow and canerow braids - a style achieved when underhand, three-strand braids are interwoven to lie flat on the scalp and can be designed and sculpted into varying patterns with or without extensions. Braid-out - a style achieved when the hair is braided either wet or dry and then opened to create a crimped texture-on-texture effect with added volume. 100

Styles and Techniques - Coils or comb twists - a style achieved when small sections of natural hair are gelled and spiraled with fingers or a comb to create individual formations of tight, cylindrical coils. Nubian Coils - a style achieved when naturally or textured hair is curled into a cylindrical shape with a comb or hands. 101

Styles and Techniques - Locs (dreadlocks) - a style achieved when natural textured hair is meshed, intertwined and interlaced to form a solid cylinder and separate network of hair. Nu-locs - a style achieved when yarn fiber is single-braided, giving the extension a matte finish to look like locs. 102

Styles and Techniques - Twists Bantu knot - a style achieved when the hair is double-strand twisted or coil twisted and wrapped around itself to make a knot and secured by bobby pins or elastic bands. Bantu knot out - a style achieve by a bantu knot which has been dried and released creating a style with spiral curls. 103

Styles and Techniques - Twists Flat twist - a parted row of hair that is first divided into two sections and then twisted and interwoven to lie flat on the scalp. It can be in varying patterns with or without extensions. Double-strand twist - a style achieved with wet or dry hair divided into two sections and then overlapped to create a twisted rope effect (dry) or a textured effect (wet). 104

Styles and Techniques - Twists Twist set (two part set) - a style achieved when done on natural or transitional hair, twist extensions, weaves, wigs or locs which is a double -twist and then set on rods which can only be placed at the end of the hair or loc. 105

Styles and Techniques - Twists Twist curls - a style achieved on textured hair and done by using a double-twist technique on wet hair to define the textured curls and waves. Twist-out - a style achieved by a double-strand twist, on any size and length of wet hair. The dried twists are opened and unraveled to add fullness, volume and a crimped effect. 106

Styles and Techniques - Sets Flexi-Rod Set - a style achieved by setting the hair on rods which are put in on an angle and rolled in a spiral formation so that it resembles an elongated curl. Straw Sets - a style achieved by setting the hair on clean, plastic straws. This process is the similiare to the rod set however, the straw set offers a tighter, more solid set. 107

Wigs are defined as an artificial covering for the head consisting of a network of interwoven hair. Wigs are a fashion statement alternative or a temporary hairstyle option. Wigs are beautifying and can conceal unhealthy hair or protect healthy hair from excessive styling manipulation. 108

Wigs require daily moisturizing products and professional steam treatments to keep them nourished. Wigs can erode the hairline if worn excessively and lead to traction alopecia. Wigs must be worn with a wig net which protects the natural hair and avoids hairline erosion and allows the scalp to breathe. 109

Wigs - Types Wigs – there are two basic categories of wigs: cap and capless. Cap wigs are constructed with an elasticized meshfiber base to which the hair is attached and most generally hand-knotted, along with lace extensions and a wire support that is used at the temples for a snug, secure fit. Capless wigs are machine-made from human or artificial hair and woven into wefts that are sewn to elastic strips in a circular pattern to fit the head shape. 110

Wigs - Fitting Ready-to-wear wigs do not require measuring but still need to be adjusted to the client’s head and styled to suit the client. Custom-made wigs – require measuring, blocking for a custom fit, and styled to suit the client. 111

Facial Structures - Types Oval Facial Type – an oval shaped face is contoured with proportional features, the client with this face type can wear most protective or natural styles. Special considerations must be made for features such as eye glasses, size and shape of the nose and the size and shape of the mouth. Round Facial Type – a round shaped face is wide with a round or oval hairline and a full and round chin. Updo styles add length to the face and asymmetrical styles that show the ears can create a slenderizing look. 112

Facial Structures - Types Square Facial Type – a square shaped face is wide with a square jawline and an unusual or straight hairline. Full styles that frame the face around the forehead, temples and jawline with wisps of hair or tapered fringe work best to soften facial lines. Diamond Facial Type – a diamond-shaped face is wide across the cheekbones with a narrow forehead and chin. Styles that are full around the forehead and jawline with full or partial bangs, with the hair kept close to the head along the cheekbones, will reduce the significance of the wide forehead. 113

Facial Structures - Types Heart Facial Type – a heart shaped face has a wide forehead with a narrow chin. Styles with partial bangs or wisps of hair that frame the face minimize the width of the forehead and help add fullness around the chin. Pear Facial Type – a pear shaped face has a narrow forehead and wide chin or jaw. Soft fringes around the forehead will camouflage the small forehead and styles that frame the cheekbones and are close or behind the ears will minimize the look of a wide jawline. 114

Facial Structures - Types Oblong Facial Type – an oblong shaped face is very long and narrow and features small, hollow cheekbones. Hair styles should be kept at medium length with soft partial bangs or wisps of curls along the face to soften the facial lines. Middle parts should be avoided due to adding length to a long, narrow face. 115

Tools that may be used for Natural Hair Care services include the hands or simple devices such as: • Clips • Combs • Hairpins • Needles • Thread Scissors may only be used to trim synthetic fibers, hair extensions or sewn in weave extensions. 116

Tools - Clips Long Clips - used to assist in the service to separate large sections of hair. Butterfly Clips - used to assist in the service to separate small and large sections of hair. 117

Tools - Combs Finishing comb - is usually 8 -10 inches long, works well on fine or straight hair and is used when trimming synthetic fibers, hair extensions or sewn -in weave extensions. Wide-tooth comb - medium to large distance between the tooth range to allow curly hair to move between the rows of teeth with ease. 118

Tools - Combs Tail comb - tapering tail or handle used for parting hair for braiding, weaving, sectioning large segments of hair and opening and removal of braids. Double-tooth comb - two rows of teeth used for separating the hair as it combs, to limit tangling and snarling on wet curly hair. 119

Tools - Combs Pick - long, widely spaced, rounded teeth, made of metal, plastic, wood or ivory and designed for lifting and separating textured and curly hair, such as Afros and human hair extensions. 120

Tools - Needles Curved Needle - the curve directs the point of the needle away from the head used for weaving thread for braids, weave styles and weaves for getting close to the scalp without harming the scalp. 121

Tools - Boards Hackle – a board of fine, upright nails used for combing through human hair to blend and detangle. Drawing board – a flat weighted pad with very close, fine teeth that sandwich the human hair. The sandwich is weighted down to secure the hair so braids can be pulled (drawn) from the board in the required proportion without losing and disturbing the rest of the hair. 122

Oregon Laws and Rules The following information is taken directly from the Oregon Revised Statutes, Chapter 690 and the Oregon Administrative Rules, Chapter 817 governing all Cosmetology fields of practice in Oregon, including Natural Hair Care. 123

Field of Practice Natural Hair Care is one of five fields of practice governed by the Board of Cosmetology. • Barbering • Esthetics • Hair Design • Nail Technology • Natural Hair Care 124

Practitioner Certificate - a written authorization allowing an individual to perform services in one or more fields of practice. A practitioner certificate is good for two years and becomes inactive on the last day of the month two years from the date of issuance. The certificate is transferrable between work locations. 125

Practitioner Certificate A practitioner certificate that has not been renewed prior to the expiration date, is inactive. A practitioner certificate that has been inactive for more than three years, is expired. Performing, attempting to perform, or purporting to perform services in a field of practice without proper certification is a violation and subject to monetary penalties, and any other actions allowed by law, including suspension or revocation of an authorization. 126

Natural Hair Care - Practice The holder of a Natural Hair Care Practitioner Certificate may practice in the capacity: Without meeting any additional licensing requirements: Ø As an employee at a licensed facility; or With additional licensing requirements: Ø As an Independent Contractor at a licensed facility; or Ø As a Freelance Authorization Holder. 127

Employee - the holder of a Natural Hair Care Practitioner Certificate may perform services in a licensed facility under the control and direction of a facility license holder. 128

Facility License Facility license- a written authorization issued to a natural person to operate an establishment, on a regular or irregular basis, for providing services in one or more fields of practice. A facility license is good for one year and becomes inactive on the last day of the month one year from the date of issuance. The license is not transferrable from person to person or form location to location. 129

Independent Contractor Registration - a written authorization that allows a practitioner to perform services in a licensed facility, not under the control and direction of a facility license holder. An Independent Contractor Registration is good for one year and becomes dormant on the last day of the month one year from the date of issuance. The registration is transferrable between work locations. 130

Freelance Authorization Freelance authorization - a written authorization that allows a practitioner to perform services outside of or away from a licensed facility. A freelance authorization is good for one year and becomes dormant on the last day of the month one year from the date of issuance. The Oregon Laws and Rules Examination must be passed within two years before the date of application to obtain a freelance authorization. 131

Freelance Authorization A freelance authorization holder must provide each client with: • The office’s name, address, and phone number to comment on services they have received; and • Display the practitioner certificate number and freelance authorization number on all advertising. 132

Posting Requirements All certificates, licenses and registrations must be posted in public view. Facility license and independent contractor registration holders must post the most recent inspection certificate in public view on the facility premises, and allow access to the inspection certificate upon request by the office’s inspector or representative. 133

Definitions Article - items which compliment services including but not limited to neck strips, towels or linens and cloth or plastic capes. Board - the Board of Cosmetology. Disinfect - a process used to destroy harmful organisms, including bacteria, viruses, germs and fungi. 134

Definitions Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) - a branch of the federal government, which approves and registers chemical compounds and agents. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)– The federal agency developed to regulate, monitor, and ensure employee safety from toxic materials used in the work area and reduce exposure to infectious diseases. 135

Definitions High-level disinfectant - a chemical agent which has demonstrated tuberculocidal activity and is registered with the EPA. Low-level disinfectant - a chemical agent which has demonstrated bactericidal, germicidal, fungicidal, and limited virucidal activity and is registered with EPA. Office - the Health Licensing Office. 136

Definitions Soiled - an article that has been used and has not been cleaned or disinfected before use on the next client. Tools and implements - portable articles and instruments, which the practitioner can carry to use in the performance of services on clients. 137

Facility Standards All licensed facilities must comply with all applicable administrative rules and regulations of the board and other state agencies regarding health, safety, and infection control standards. A facility license holder must allow the office’s representative to inspect the facility or conduct an investigation. 138

Facility Standards The cleanliness and sanitary conditions of any shared or common area in a licensed facility is the responsibility of each license or registration holder. All facility license and independent contractor registration holders will be cited for violations of the rules or regulations found in the shared or common area of a licensed facility. 139

Facilities Located in Residence A licensed facility located in a residence must comply with all facility standards including having an identifying house number and sign, with the facility name on file with the office, which is easily visible from the street and indicates the location of the facility. 140

Facilities Located in Residence The living area of the residence must be separated from the licensed facility by solid walls extending from floor to ceiling, with any connecting doors kept closed while the facility is in operation. 141

Facilities - Water Supply Licensed facilities must have an adequate supply of both hot and cold running water. Practitioners must have immediate access to a supply of hot and cold running water. If only natural hair care services are provided within the facility, a sink located in the restroom qualifies as a water source. Washing accommodations must be maintained in a clean and sanitary condition. 142

Facilities – Cleansing Agents and Towels All licensed facilities must have hand soap or similar cleansing agents available. Individual towels of cloth or paper must be available. Air blowers for drying the hands may be substituted for towels. Use of bar soap or a common towel is prohibited. 143

Facilities - Floor Surfaces Floor surfaces in the working area of a licensed facility must be of a cleanable, non-absorbent material and must be kept clean, orderly, and in good repair. 144

Facilities - Walls and Ceilings Walls and ceilings in a licensed facility must be clean and free of excessive spots, mildew, condensation, or peeling paint. 145

Facilities – Surface Disinfection All surfaces contaminated by blood or other potentially infectious materials must be disinfected with a high-level solution according to manufacturer’s instructions. 146

Facilities - Pets or other animals must not be permitted in a licensed facility at any time. This prohibition does not apply to trained guide dogs for the disabled, sightless, or hearing impaired or to fish in aquariums. 147

Client Services – Towels or Linens Clean towels or linens must be used for each client and must be stored in a clean area. All soiled towels or linens must be stored in a closable container after each use. 148

Towels or Linens - Laundering Used towels must be laundered either by regular commercial laundering or by a non-commercial laundering process, which includes use of commercial laundry detergent manufactured for the purpose of cleaning clothes, linens or other washable fabric, and immersion in hot water during the hot water wash/rinse operation. 149

Articles in Contact with Client To prevent direct contact between a common use hair cloth or cape and the client’s skin, there must be a neck strip or towel placed around the client’s neck. All items that come in direct contact with the client’s skin, that do not require disinfecting, must be clean. If the item cannot be cleaned or disinfected it must be disposed of in a covered waste receptacle immediately after use. 150

Hairpieces During the trying on of a manufactured hairpiece, the portion of the head which comes in contact with the hairpiece must be completely covered with a disposable cover. All used hair goods must be cleaned according to manufacturer’s instructions before resale and marked as used. 151

Refuse and Waste Material All waste related to the performance of services must be deposited in a covered container to avoid the potential for cross contamination through, release of or exposure to, infectious waste materials. 152

Refuse and Waste Material Waste unrelated to performance of services must be deposited in a waste disposal container. Containers located in the reception area, which do not contain waste relating to performance of services, are exempt from having covers. 153

Refuse and Waste Material Outer surfaces of waste disposal containers must be kept clean. Sealable plastic bags and sealable rigid containers must be available for use at all times services are being performed in a licensed facility. 154

Tools and Implements – Disinfection All tools and implements used within a field of practice must be disinfected before use on each client. All disinfecting agents must be kept at adequate strengths to maintain effectiveness, be free of foreign material and be available for immediate use at all times the licensed facility is open for business. 155

Tools and Implements – Disinfection The method for disinfecting non-electrical tools and implements will be as follows: • Remove all hair and/or foreign material; • Clean thoroughly with soap or detergent and water; • Rinse thoroughly with clear, clean water; and • Sterilize, using one of the approved methods. 156

Tools and Implements – Disinfection All tools and implements that come in direct contact with a client must be disinfected or disposed of after use. All tools and implements with sharp edges or points must be totally immersed in a high-level disinfectant according to the manufacturer’s instructions. 157

Tools and Implements – Disinfection All tools and implements without sharp edges or points must be totally immersed in a solution containing 1, 000 parts per million (ppm) of a commercial quaternary ammonium compound or other low-level disinfectant used according to the manufacturer’s instructions. 158

Tools and Implements – Storage New and/or disinfected and cleaned tools and implements must be stored separately from all others. Storage drawers for clean tools and implements must be clean, free of hair and used only for clean tools and implements. Storage cabinets, work stations and vanities must be kept clean. 159

Devices and Equipment – Use, Safety and Registration Natural Hair Care practitioners may use “simple” devices and equipment as part of the delivery of services as specified within their scope of practice. All devices and equipment must be used in accordance with the “product safety and registration requirements” imposed by any federal, state, county, or local authority. 160

Equipment – Material and Maintenance The surface of all equipment where services are performed, including but not limited to back bars must be of cleanable non-absorbent material. All equipment must be clean and in good repair. 161

Serving Clients - Gloves Single-use disposable gloves must be discarded after use with each client. Reusable protective gloves must be cleaned with soap, water and disinfected after each use. 162

Serving Clients – Hand Washing Practitioners must wash their hands before and after serving each client to prevent cross contamination. When washing hands practitioners must use soap and water or other alternative hand-washing products, such as gel, aerosol spray, foam, or prepackaged hand wipes. 163

Congratulations! You have now completed the Natural Hair Care Training Module. The following requirements will need to be completed prior to obtaining a Natural Hair Care Practitioner Certificate: 164

Examination Requirements • Print and complete the attached certificate of completion. • Obtain the Natural Hair Care Certification Application from the office’s web site at: https: //www. oregon. gov/oha/PH/HLO/Forms/COS _Natural_Hair_Care_Certification_Application. pdf • Provide all requirements listed on the application checklist in order to sit for the Natural Hair Care Written Examination. 165

Examination Requirements • The examination is administered at the Health Licensing Office (HLO), 1430 Tandem Ave. NE, Suite 180, Salem, Oregon 97301. • Office hours for testing can be accessed on the HLO website at: https: //www. oregon. gov/oha/PH/HLO/Pages/Boar d-Cosmetology-Natural-Hair-Care-License. aspx. 166

Certificate of Completion I herby attest and confirm that I have completed the: Natural Hair Care Training Module ____________ Print Full Name __________________ Signature ________________ Date of Completion 167