OLEON A NATURAL CHEMISTRY JJ BSI SEMINAR PERSONAL

OLEON A NATURAL CHEMISTRY J&J – BSI SEMINAR PERSONAL CARE 14 th May 2012

A fruitfull collaboration On 10 specialty products; Radia 7750; Isoamy Laurate Radia 2253; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate Radia 7758; Sorbitan Isostearate Radia 7447; PEG-8 Diisostearate Radia 7687; Neopentylglycol Diisostearate Radia 7181; Pentaertythrityl Tetraisostearate Radia 7373; Triisostearin Radia 7380; Trimethylol Propane Triisostearate Radia 2248 ; Polyglyceryl-3 stearate Radia 7887; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate

WHO IS OLEON?

Core business of Oleon is a leading company in Europe for the production of chemicals based on Natural Oils Oleon is a subsidiary of the Sofiproteol group, Europe’s reference for vegetable oil with activities in food, feed, biofuels and oleochemistry. Oil cake Biotechnologies Seeds Pesticides Other services for agriculture Growers Collect of oilseeds and protein rich seeds Animal health and breeding Animal nutrition Crushing Food Oils Renewable energies Growers and breeders Oilseeds division Food animal sector division Other Agricultural industries with Sofiprotéol concern Renewable chemicals Breeders Transformation and animal productions

International character of Oleon Sales Offices Oleon Northern Europe 6 Plants (Ertvelde, Oelegem, Compiègne, Sandefjord, Emmerich, Port Klang) Oleon UK Oleon Americas Oleon HQ Oleon Gmb. H Oleon France Oleon China Oleon Southern Europe Oleon Asia Pacific 5

Values of Oleon Innovation driven Investments in innovation centre Technical involvement Application research & Product improvement in R&D lab Environmental concern RSPO member Iso 14001 certification Quality focus COSMOS/Ecocert Kosher/Halal

Oleon is an RSPO member RSPO Promoting the Growth And Use of Sustainable Palm Oil Oleon is member since 2007 Oleon respects RSPO principle & criteria Among its principles …Respect for rights of land owners, farmworkers, smallholders and their families. …No primary forests or high conservation value areas sacrificed for new palm oil plantations

OUR CHEMISTRY.

From nature to oleochemistry Containing Rapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut, Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor…

From oleochemistry to consumer product Esterification Fatty acid Hydrolyses Alcohol building block Glycerol Ester Fatty acid

A glance into the Radia building blocks Alcohol-function - OH INCI Polyglyceryl-3 stearate Polyglycerol Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate Sorbitan + polyethyleneglycol Sorbitan Fatty acid – function -COOH Isoamyl Isopropyl Pentaerythrityl + C 8/C 10 Lauric acid Myristic acid Palmitic acid Stearic acid Oleic acid Isostearic acid = Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 60 Polysorbate 80 Sorbitan Laurate Sorbitan Oleate Sorbitan trioleate Sorbitan isostearate Isoamyl laurate Isopropyl myristate Isopropyl palmitate Isopropyl isostearate Pentaerythrithyl tetra caprylate/tetracaprate Pentaerythrithyl stearate Pentaerythrithyl tetraisostearate Propylene glycol Glycerol Propylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate Propylene glycol stearate caprylic/capric triglyceride Glyceryl laurate (90%) Glyceryl stearate Glyceryl oleate …

WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Characteristics Radia portfolio Eye catchers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

Characteristics: HLB-scale of William C. Griffin • • Hydrophylic part -OH function Stands for: Established for: Formula: Purpose: Hydrophilic/lipophilic Balance Non-ionic emulsifiers HLB = 20* [MW hydrophilic part/MW total molecule] Scale to performance of the emulsifier High HLB = hydophylic type Low HLB = lipophylic type High HLB Hydrophylic part -OH function FA function Lipophylic part High HLB Water soluble Oil in Water emulsion Low HLB Oil (Fat) soluble Water in oil emulsion

Characteristics: HLB versus performance HLB 1 2 3 Characteristics O/W emulsifier Radia Mixing unlike oils together Radiasurf 7755 Making W/O emulsions Radiamuls 2253 Radia 7887 Radiasurf 7758 Radiamuls 2155 4 5 Radiasurf 7141 6 7 8 9 • Making self-emulsifying oils Radiamuls 2248 Radiasurf 7447 Radiasurf 7444 Radiasurf 7454 • Wetting Powders 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 • Making detergent solutions (HLB 13 -15) Making O/W emulsions using surfactant blends • Solubilizing oils (micro-emulsifying) into water (10 -18) Radiasurf 7443 Radiasurf 7402 Radiasurf 7125 Radiasurf 7473 Radiasurf 7403 Radiasurf 7423 Radiasurf 7404 Radiamuls 2157 Radiasurf 7147 Radiasurf 7137

WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Characteristics Radia portfolio Eye catchers Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

Characteristics: An emollient and its sensorial aspect … softens and smoothes the skin … results in elastic and lubricated skin An emollient can be characterised by sensorial terminology: Spreading Absorption Greasiness Stickiness Softness Smoothness

Characteristics: An emollient and its chemistry An emollient can be characterised by physico chemical terminology Low viscosity Viscosity = light feel & good spread Branched structure Liquid means easy to handle = Cold processing Light feel Saturated structure Chemical stability No off odour, no off colour Low molecular weight light & dry feel quick absorption High polarity (Harkin) Good spread Low contact angle Wetting capacity

WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

Radia 7887: W/O emulsion How commercial is a W/O-emulsion? Applications: Sun Screen milks Skin protective baby creams Massage milks Lotions and creams For dry and sensitive skin Hand & feet care Night creams Properties: Skin protection Long lasting moisturization Resemblance to the natural skin protective barrier Improved spreading and penetration of active ingredients Reduced preservative concentration

Radia 7887: cold process How do you benefit of a cold process method? COLD PROCESSING equals cost reduction by means of T (°C) 1 2 3 Hot Process +/- 80 …time 4 5 Homogenize No heating time 20 No cooling time Time …energy No need for melting T (°C) 1 …amount No additional co-emulsifier Low concentration Cold Process 2 3 5 4 20 Homogenize Time

Radia 7887: its building blocks POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE & SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE Glycerol Ricinoleate Sorbitol Saponification of a vegetable oil Extraction & destillation Hydrogenation & filtration Rapeseed oil Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae) Wheat/Maize Isostearate Saponification, neutralization & destillation Rapeseed oil

The identity of Radia 7887

Radia 7887: viscosity How to reach consistency with only liquid ingredients? • Increase of water phase % • Using emollients with higher viscosity • Homogenization (sharing force) Results in a rich, consistent and stable cream

Radia 7887: stability Stability testing parameters? Test formulation W/O Evaluation methods Oil phase Oil 30% Emulsifier 1) Centrifuge stability (3 x 15 min @ 4000 rpm) 10 %, 18% or 1% or 4% Water phase Glycerol Mg. SO 4. 7 H 2 O Preservative Water Low external phase = 10% High external phase = 30% Low surfactant = 1% High surfactant = 3. 5% 4% 0, 7% q. s. to 100% 2) Temperature stability 8 weeks @ 50°C 3 months@ 40°C >4 months@ RT Freeze-thaw 5 cycles at -15°C/RT 3) Viscosity stability ( m. Pas) Brookfield 10 rpm, 1 minute, LVT spindle After 1 day After 3 months 4) Appearance Visual aspect

Radia 7887: stability What about stability performance? • A low emulsifier (1%) emulsion showed to be stable with …MCT …paraffin oils up to 18% • A high emulsifier (4%) emulsion showed to be stable with …MCT …sunflower oil …paraffin oils • A remarkable synergy and high viscosity is observed using sunflower oil which benefits your green formulation. • R 7887 emulsions show stability with internal phases up to 82%!

Radia 7887: formulations Low Cost W/O protective cream HP 11 -22 -2 • Phase • Ingredient • INCI • A • Radia 7887 • Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate • 3. 6 • Radia 7373 • Triisostearin • 0. 5 • Radia 7363 • Triolein (= Sunflower oil) • 18 • Glycerin 4810 • Glycerin • water • Aqua • B • C • % w/w • 4 • To 100 • Mg. SO 4. 7 H 2 O • 0. 8 • preservative • 0. 7 Viscosity : 121000 m. Pa. s (Brookfield RV, spindle 7, rpm 10, 1 min. ) Assessment: Rich protective cream, high viscosity, film forming , good spreading

Radia 7887: formulations W/O soft body cream/Lotion HP 03 -54 -3 • Phase • Ingredient • INCI • A • Radia 7887 • Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate • 4 • Radia 7208 • Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate • 2 • Radia 7732 • Isopropyl Palmitate • B • C • % w/w • 11 • Sweet almond oil • 2 • Avocado oil • 2 • Glycerin 4810 • Glycerin • water • Aqua • 3 • To 100 • Mg. SO 4. 7 H 2 O • 0. 5 • preservative • 0. 7 • Viscosity , 35000 m. Pa. s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min. ) • Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

Radia 7887: formulations Low Cost Protective baby cream • Phase • Ingredient • INCI • A • Radia 7887 • Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate HP 11 -12 -1 • % w/w • 3, 6 • Olive Oil • B • C • 15 • Radia 7373 • Triisostearin • 0, 5 • Radia 7500 • Cetyl Palmitate • 2 • Glycerin 4810 • Glycerin • 3 • water • Aqua • To 100 • Mg. SO 4. 7 H 2 O • 0. 5 • preservative • 0. 7 • Zn. O • 10 • Viscosity , 35000 m. Pa. s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min. ) • Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

Radia 7887: the movie

WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

The identity of Radia 7750

Radia 7750: a green chemical

Radia 7750: wetting properties

Radia 7750: practical use Usage level ü Often used as primary oil : 480%. ü Higher usage levels 30 -80% in all kind of body oils & bath oils. ü O/W and W/O emulsion creams: 5 -20%. ü Wet wipes O/W: 0. 5 -2 % ü Natural hair care: 1 -5%

WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

Isostearic derivates: Characteristics Isostearic derivates are saturated: Chemical stability No need for antioxidant Isostearic acid is a natural based building block from rapeseed oil. Isostearic derivates are branched: Excellent emolliency Non-greasy afterfeel Highly substantive lipid film Soft skinfeel Glossy appearance

Isostearic derivates: Characteristics Isostearic derivates have a low melting point (vs straight-chain analogues): No crystallization Isostearic derivatives can replace oleic derivatives Isostearic derivates are liquid: Cold emulsion method Practicial use A solution for heat sensitive products A solution for challenging formulations

Isostearic derivates: Portfolio INCI Radia Isostearyl alcohol Radianol 1980 Isostearic Acid Radiacid 908/909 Neopentylglycol Diisostearate Radia 7687 Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate Radia 7181 Triisostearin Radia 7373 Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate Radia 7380 Isopropyl Isostearate Radia 7739

Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7373 INCI: TRIISOSTEARIN Performance: Dispersant & adhesion promotor of pigments Solvating functionality Modifies melting points Sensorial: Long lasting spreadability (no migration) when combined with ligh emollient Speciality: ‘Natural oil – like’ with enhanced emulsification properties Applications: Lipsticks (long lasting) Colour cosmetics

Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7739

Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7380

Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7687

Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7181

Oleon Head Office Assenedestraat 2 9940 Ertvelde - Belgium T: +32 (0)9 341 10 11 F: +32 (0)9 341 10 00 E: info@oleon. com