Natural Fibres Vegetable cellulose Seed Cotton Kapok Coir

Natural Fibres • Vegetable (cellulose): Seed- Cotton, Kapok, Coir Bast- Flax, Hemp, Jute, Ramie Leaf- Sisal, Manila • Animal (protein): Wool- Wool, Virgin wool Fine hair- Alpaca, Rabbit, Angora, Mohair, Cashmere Coarse hair- Cattle, Horse, Goat Silk- Cultivated, Wild • Mineral: Rock fibres- Asbestos

Natural Fibres Fibre Clothing comfort Other properties Applications Cotton Fine flexible fibres however through finishing more voluminous materials made. Absorb 20% of water without feeling wet, dries slowly Very comfortable next to skin-fineness and softness Good strength- stronger when wet Abrasion resistant Durable Very poor elasticity-creases easily Scarcely electrostatic charge Fibres are fine and softpleasant to handle Shirts, blouses, underwear, nightwear, leisure wear and workwear. Bed clothes, table cloths, hand bath towels Workwear and protective clothing, awnings, tarpaulins. Flax Smooth flax fibres, poor insulation Highly absorbent- takes up water rapidly and releases quickly Good tenacity and durabilitystronger when wet Low elasticity- crease badly No electrostatic charge Coarse fibre- firm handle Summer wear, jackets, suits, interlinings for stiffening Bed clothing Tarpaulins, rope Wool The finer and more tightly spun yarns have less thermal insulation but bulky woollen fibres allow fibres to crimp increasing amount of trapped air Very absorbent- vapour absorbed rapidly but droplets are repelled Dries very slowly Soft next to skin Adequate strength- low durability Fibres are springy so good elasticity Small electrostatic charge Does not burn easily Suits, pullovers, overcoats Blankets, carpets, drapes, Fire protective clothing Industrial felts

Man-Made Fibres • Natural Polymers: Cellulosic- Viscose, Modal, Lyocell, Acetate Rubber- Rubber • Synthetic: Elastomeric- Elastane Polyacrylic- Acrylic Polyamides- Nylon, Aramid Chlorofibres- Vinyl chloride Polyesters- Polyester • Inorganics: Glass, carbon, Metal

Man-made Fibres Fibre Clothing comfort Other properties Applications

Fundamentals • Terminology: Spun yarns. Filament yarns. Multi-filament. Monofilament. Assembled yarns. Folded or Piled yarns

Fundamentals • Twist: Twist direction- Z (right) and S (left) Twist level • Woollen & Worsted • Fancy yarns- slub, loop • Textured-

Woven Fabrics

Woven Fabrics Plain Fabrics Twill Fabrics

Cut Pile Woven fabrics

Knitted Fabrics • Weft Knit

Weft Knitted Fabrics • Jacquard

Weft Knitted Fabrics • Flat Knitted Fabrics • Circular Knitted Fabrics

Warp Knitted Fabrics • Plain Tricot stitch Locknit

Warp Knitted Fabrics • Warp Knitted Terry • Warp Knitted plush, velour • Raschel net • Raschel lace

Non-woven Fabrics • Wool Felts

Nonwoven Fabrics • Needle Felts

Nonwoven Fabrics Bonded Webs

Finishing Why Finish? • Protect • Change the handle • Improve durability • Add value • Improve aesthetics • Are fit for intended purpose Types of Finish • Permanent – Often a chemical finish, like flame resistance • Durable- lasting the life of the product, like permanent pleating • Semi durable- Lasting several launderings, like shower proof • Temporary- removed by laundering, like pressing or calendering.

Chemical

Mechanical/ Physical

Printing • • Direct Printing Discharge Printing Resist printing Transfer Printing Flock Printing Pigment Printing Lacquer Printing Warp Printing

Dyeing • Dyeing- Textiles can be dyed at the fibre, yarn, fabric or product stage of manufacture • Types of dyeing- Fabrics in a greige state(un-dyed), Overdyeing and garment dyeing • Resist dyeing- Tie-dyeing & Batik • Dyeing preparation – desizing, scouring, bleaching • Batch dyeing processes- substantial amounts of each product/ dye & fixer/ dryed/ tested/ redyed • Fabrics made in undyed state(greige) i. e standard t-shirt material then dyed in seasons colours-bath of dye stuff/squeezed through rubber rollers/fixation machinery

Textiles Aftercare Bleaching Professional Dry-cleaning & Wet Cleaning Machine Drying Fibre/Content Washing Natural Drying Ironing

Dyeing • Over-dyeing – Fabrics made from different fibres • Garment dyeing –Products dyed late in manufacture • Colour fastness- Resistance to colour loss- dependent on fibre, dyestuff and use. ISO 105 evaluates different types of fastness in relation to rubbing, washing, ironing, perspiration light, weather and sea water.