JEWELLERY A Brief Guide to National 5 Art

JEWELLERY A Brief Guide to. . National 5 Art and Design Bearsden Academy

. . . A Guide to Art Nouveau Breakdown : Materials – glass, enamel, precious metals, gem stones Craftsmanship – high level whist also taking advantage of new technologies available to mass produce Function – to decorate and adorn the human body Innovation – high innovative in their use of materials and manufacture Aesthetics – nature inspired, decorative, unusual & eye-catching Typical Characteristics : Innovative & creative pieces High quality materials Refined Art Nouveau Utilitarian Products every day functional objects Nature inspired High level of craftsmanship Exclusive Narrative Highly decorative & ornate Aesthetically pleasing Symbolic Intricate Delicate Art Nouveau Architecture Art Nouveau Posters

. . . Useful Terms Design Vocabulary Aesthetics - Function - Ergonomics - Craftsmanship - Materials - Cost - Target Market - Health and Safety Fitness for purpose - Technologies - Innovation - Manufacture – Style – Client – Context – How the design looks What the design does How the design interacts with the human body How well the design has been produced and designed What the design has been made from Cost of manufacture and selling price Who the designer was aiming the design at How the designer has considered safety in the design How well the design fulfils its purpose The use of technology in the design If the designer has done something new in the design How the design has been made, by hand or by machine If the design has an obvious influence or look The person that asks the designer to design an object Where the product will be used Typical Techniques and Setting: Combining precious and semi precious materials and stones Enamelling – The process of fusing powdered glass to a backing such as metal, glass or ceramic by firing, usually between 750 and 850 °C (1, 380 and 1, 560 °F). The powder melts, flows, and then hardens to a smooth, durable shiny coating Plique a jour – An enamelling technique where the enamel is applied in cells, but with no backing in the final product, so light can shine through the transparent or translucent enamel. It is in effect a miniature version of stained-glass and is considered very challenging technically Filigree - A delicate kind of jewellery metalwork, usually of gold and silver, made with tiny beads or twisted threads, or both in combination, soldered together or to the surface of an object of the same metal and arranged in artistic motifs Chased carving – Grooves or indents cut into the surface of metal Bezel settings – A general term for a setting holding the stone in place using a raised surrounding for the stone with a lip encircling and overlapping the edges of the stone, thus holding it in place Claw settings – Where small ‘claws’ extend from the piece to hold the stone

A Brief Introduction to. . . René Lalique Biography • He was born in the French village of Ay on 6 April 1860 and died 5 May 1945. • René Jules Lalique was a French glass designer known for his creations of glass art, perfume bottles, vases, jewellery, chandeliers, clocks and automobile hood ornaments. • In 1885, Lalique opened his own business and designed and made his own jewellery and other glass pieces • In 1900 at the age of 40, he was the most celebrated jeweller in the world an art nouveau artist and designer of magnificent proportions Manufacture He brought glass into the home of everyday people where it had never been before, and he worked out the industrial techniques to mass produce his useful art glass objects on a scale and cost to complement the spreading industrial revolution and resulting worldwide appetite for his products Materials • He incorporated into his jewellery many materials not widely used in his time for high end jewellery including glass, horn, pearls, semi-precious stones, enamel, and ivory. • He only used the typical valuable gemstones of the period for what they brought to the piece artistically and not for their value as gems. • Lalique jewellery creations were not just holders for high value stones, they were artwork in their own right, creating a worldwide interest and a huge demand. • Near the end Lalique's jewellery career, he increasingly experimented with glass in both his jewellery and unique objects • Enamels, precious metals, gems, glass Inspiration and Aims • Lalique's primary inspiration was the natural world. • He was influenced not just by the natural world of the French countryside, but also Japanese natural world art motifs as well. To be creative, yet innovative with his choice of materials and use of technology. • Lalique always strived to keep ahead of the game by pushing boundaries and taking risks. • To create beautiful, visually stunning, unique pieces of jewellery Influences • Lalique is remembered for his jewellery and his glass. But his greatest accomplishments were born in his recognition of the changing world in which he lived. • His life spanned the entire period from the Civil War to World War II and as his world changed, so did Lalique. • His amazing turn of careers and fields put him in the forefront of the new mass production. • He was a jeweller, he was a glassmaker, he was an artist. But his great accomplishment was to combine those talents with foresight and innovation to not just serve markets, but to create them. • In the process, Lalique would become a world class industrialist with an industrial ability on par with any other of his rich talents and achievements.

Belt Buckle c. 1903 -04 René Lalique Gold, enamel, opal, sapphire d. 18. 2 cm René Lalique initiated a revolution in French jewellery design by asserting that his work should be valued for its design and craftsmanship, rather than for the value of the materials used. His technical virtuosity is demonstrated by the sophisticated use of transparent enamel held in fine metal cells on the wings of this piece – a technique known as ‘pliqué à jour’. The two butterflies on either side of the central opal beetle are delicately hinged so that they move with the movement of the wearer. Dragonfly Woman, Corsage ornament, c. 1897 -98 René Lalique Gold, enamel, chrysoprase, diamonds, moonstones Unlike traditional jewellers, who relied almost exclusively on precious stones for effect, Lalique used a variety of materials to create incredibly rich sculptural objects that are works of art in their own right. For the head and body of the woman in this glittering brooch, he chose semiprecious apple-green chrysoprase; the dragonfly wings are made of enamel set with gold and irregular moonstones, ringed with diamonds to convey the iridescent character of insect wings. Notice how the wings are hinged in four places and the tail bends, allowing this enormous brooch to adjust to and move with the body of the person who wore it.

A Brief Introduction to. . . Philippe Wolfers Biography • He was born in Brussels on 16 April 1858 and died 3 December 1929. • Philippe Wolfers was a Belgian jeweller, sculptor and glassware designer. • Wolfers studied sculpture in the Academy Brussels then in 1892, along with his brothers Max and Robert, he took over the goldsmith's workshop of his father Louis Wolfers. • The Wollfers were master silversmiths and the family business founded in 1812, was sometimes referred to as "Dynasty Wolfers”. They produced designs of vases, jewellery and glass-ware • In 1889 he had a villa built in La Hulpe and moved there with his team of jewellers. Here he pursued his passion for Art Nouveau. He spent the years from 1889 to 1905 using his extensive grounds to study nature and to create a beautiful series of 109 unique jewels. This is his Ex(exemplaire) Unique range where each jewel was given a name and was seen as the ultra modern pinnacle of art nouveau jewellery. • In 1908, he produced sculptures, ceramics, furniture and metalwork; his style became more geometrical and abstract and it reached its climax at the 1925 Arts and Crafts Exhibition in Paris. Materials • He incorporated into his jewellery many materials not widely used in his time for high end jewellery including glass, horn, pearls, • In 1897 started to work with ivory, a fine material never used before him and which came from Congo, the Belgian Colony in Africa. • He only used the typical valuable gemstones of the period for what they brought to the piece artistically and not for their value as gems. • jewellery creations were not just holders for high value stones, they were artwork in their own right, creating a worldwide interest and a huge demand. • semi-precious stones, enamel, and ivory. Inspiration • His first works were inspired by Japanese art and craft work • He was inspired by aesthetic characteristics from floral, animal and natural designs, as well as sensual female forms • He was inspired by the Symbolism Movement and its dream like themes

Orchid Hair Ornament c. 1905 – 07 Wolfers Gold, plique-a-jour enamel, diamonds and rubies Jewel in the shape of an orchid, its four curving lilac petals emanating from a central diamond. The technical achievement of enamelling in plique-a-jour (backless) enamel on these undulating surfaces is impressive. Orchids symbolised the Art Nouveau movement and its fascination with nature, sensuality and exotic flowers. Swan with Snakes Pendant c. 1898, opal Wolfers Chased gold, rubies, diamonds, pear shaped pearl d. 5 x 5 cm A one-off design made for Wolfers’ wife Sophie

Rene Lalique and Philippe Wolfers Peter Chang and Nora Fok Art Nouveau • • • Materials – glass, precious metals, gem stones Craftsmanship – high level whist also taking advantage of new technologies available to mass produce Function – to decorate and adorn the human body Innovation – high innovative in his use of materials and manufacture Aesthetics – nature inspired, decorative, unusual & eyecatching Contemporary • • • Materials – plastics and waste mostly Craftsmanship – very high level due to being hand made taking hundreds of hours Function – highly decorative and adorns the human body (looks good) Innovation – innovative use of waste materials for jewellery design Aesthetics – colourful, eye catching & bold, attractive & delicate . . . Designer Comparisons

A Brief Introduction to. . . Peter Chang Biography • Peter Chang was born in 1944 and raised in Liverpool. • British mother & Chinese Father • He attended Liverpool College of Art. • Degrees in Graphic Design and Sculpture Manufacture • All handmade • Several hundred working hours to create, working through several phases until completion • Very high level of craftsmanship Materials • Tends to use plastics, acrylics, polyester and polyvinyl chloride (all plastic based) • Household waste materials • He treats his man- made plastics with the same respect as a conventional jeweller working with gold etc. • Strong use of plastic based and waste materials. • Large, chunky & bold pieces yet lightweight. • It would not be unusual in Chang’s work to see, perhaps, the imagery of aquatic plants combined with the pattern from the sole of a trainer Inspiration and Aims • Nature • Urban Environments (cities and city life) • Sea-life creatures • Ocean themes • Surrealism • Abstraction • “ The pieces I create can be sculptures or they can be worn as jewellery, each individual will have a different response to them and I like that” • Futuristic and fancifully organic, Peter Chang's brilliantly coloured bracelets, brooches and objects are meticulously crafted and detailed. Influences • His own cultural background – Chinese heritage • This father was a Chinese Seaman – sea life, mythological creatures • Liverpool in the Swinging Sixties – music, art & psychedelic colours & patterns

Bangle 2004 Peter Chang Acrylic, beads & pinheads Bangle 1998 Peter Chang Acrylic and Beads

A Brief Introduction to. . . Nora Fok Biography • Nora Fok was born in Hong Kong • She worked in Design and advertising in the 1970’s but then discovered her real passion was in Jewellery and went on to Brighton Polytechnic studying wood metal plastics and ceramics. • Nora was inspired by unusual materials and started experimenting in jewellery design. • Nora works at home in Hove, on the sunny south east coast of England, she uses no mechanical equipment, all her work is carried out by hand processes, with only basic tools. Manufacture • Handmade • Easy to manipulate • Tactile and comfortable • Materials that dye well • Very high level of craftsmanship • She also experiments in different techniques of Knitting, Knotting, Tying, weaving and pleating. Materials • Found materials • Recycled materials • Nylon fishing line • Resin • Fibreglass • Acrylics Inspiration and Aims • To produce wearable and affordable jewellery • To experiment in making sculptural jewellery • To experiment with non-precious materials as this is a very cost effective way to work • To make jewellery by hand • To make complex pieces by repeating shapes • To make jewellery lightweight Influences • Chinese operas and the spectacularly colourful patterns found in the costumes • She is intrigued by the world around her; she also asks questions and tries to find answers to them. • She is fascinated by different aspects of nature, structure, systems and order, and the mysteries and magic which she sets out to capture in her work • Nora studied plants intensively at the Glass flowers exhibition at the Harvard museum of natural history and this led to her jewellery designs based • on organic forms of plants, seed pods and twigs.

Walking Onion head piece 2006 Nora Fok Knitted knotted clear nylon Diameter: 66 cm/26 inches Inspired by a special type of onion called the Walking onion which is grown for its shallot-like, onion-flavoured clusters of bulbils borne in place of flowers. The stalks eventually flop over and the little onions can take root and walk across the ground as each generation moves further from the mother plant. Armadillo hood/neck piece 2007 Woven clear nylon Diameter: 30 cm/12 inches Inspired by the Clyde Auditorium, so called the Armadillo in Glasgow; She scaled down the zig zag roof into a wearable hood/ neck piece. When worn it is a piece of jewellery or it can be converted into a private concert hall for listening to music.