GARMENT ACCESSORIES Garment Accessories All the materials except

GARMENT ACCESSORIES Garment Accessories: ‘All the materials except main fabric required to produce a complete garment’. In other Words, the materials, which are used to make a garment attractive for sale and packing, including trims, other than fabrics are called accessories. Trims: The raw materials which are attached with main fabric are called trims. Or Accessories that are attached with main fabric is called trim

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN TRIM N ACCESSORIES Accessories Trims Definition All Materials used to complete the garments Materials permanently attached with main fabric Area All accessories are not trim All trims are accessories Price May be cheap or expensive Usually expensive Life time Not essential for those which are not trim Should be equal or more than base fabric Essentiality May be essential or not Essential component of garment Removality May be removable or permanently attached Not removable from the fabric Example Button, Hang Tag Button, Interlining

TRIMS & ACCESSORIES Button Velcro Plastic Clip Care Label Zipper Size Label Sewing Thread Hang tag String Interlining

QUALITY OF TRIMMINGS The important qualities of trims are Life time: The life time of trims should be equal or higher than that of the garments. Shrinkage: The shrink ability of the base fabric of the garments and the trims should be same and it should be checked earlier. Color fastness: The fastness properties of accessories should be as good as the base fabric. Rust: Trims must be rust proof. To avoid this problem, the metal trims should be electroplated or they should be made up of non – rusting materials. Comfortability and Safety: Trims should not be uncomfortable or hazardous to the wearer.

ACCESSORIES List of Accessories: 1. Label (s) 2. Poly bag 3. Mini Poly bag 4. Blister poly bag 5. Button 6. Scotch Tape 7. Padding 8. Master Carton 9. Inner carton 10. Interlining 11. Size clip 12. Plastic Clip

ACCESSORIES 13. P. P. band 14. Thread 15. Tag pin 16. Twill Tape 17. Draw String 18. Stopper 19. Collar stand 20. Safety pin 21. Draw Cord 22. Gum tape 23. Arrow sticker 24. Logo print 25. Tissue Paper 26. Zipper, etc.

ACCESSORIES REQUIRED IN BASIC SHIRT Sewing Thread Butterfly Poly Bag Button (20 L and 14 L) Back Board Scotch Tape Interlining Plastic Clip Tag Pin Main Label Ball Head Pin Hang Tag Care Label Tissue Paper Price Tag Size Label Silica Gel Barcode Label Carton Neck Board Gum Tape

SWATCH CARD ► Swatch Card: When all the items (fabric and accessories) needed to manufacture a particular style of garment are attached on a board as a sample, usually by using both side adhesive tapes, it is called Swatch Card. Separate garments. swatch card is prepared for different style of

SWATCH CARD ►Importance It of Swatch Card: is that where all approved materials and accessories are present with their color combination. It is much important during production because in apparel, every style of garments require specific types of fabric and accessories. Swatch card ensures the use of right material for a garments, thus it helps to avoid using wrong materials. So, swatch card must be provided to the cutting, sewing, finishing, store, quality, washing, merchandising and other relevant sections for the appropriate use of fabric and accessories.

BUTTON ►A small disc or the disc like material for sewing or otherwise attaching to an article, as of clothing, serving as a fastening when passed through a button hole or loop. Button is an one of the most used accessories which is attached to garments as functional or decorative purposes.

MEASUREMENT OF BUTTON ►A button's ligne, refers to a button's size. The word ligne, is a French word that became the standard reference used by German button manufacturers in the early eighteenth century. Ligne is the internationally recognized standard for measurement of button. ► A "ligne" measured the inside diameter of a "round flat. “ ► Usual requirement from designer is Dye To Match (DTM) button

CONVERSION OF LIGNE (L) IN INCH AND MM Ligne to Inch and Milimeter Conversion Table Ligne 20 L 30 L 40 L Inch ½’’ ¾’’ 1’’ Milimeter 12. 75 19 25. 5

CONVERSION OF MM INTO LIGNE Button dia (in mm) / 0. 635 = button ligne 12. 7 mm / 0. 635 = 20 L Result = 20 L (L = ligne )

MEASUREMENT OF BUTTON

MEASUREMENT OF BUTTON

MEASUREMENT OF BUTTON

COUNTING OF BUTTON ► Button is counted by Gross or great gross (GG) 1 ►a gross = 12 x 12 = 144 pcs unit of quantity equivalent to 12 gross is counted as 1 Great Gross (GG) So, 1 GG = 144 x 12=1728 Pieces

TYPES OF BUTTON Flat Buttons: The most common buttons are fairly flat, with 2 or 4 holes in the centre Shank buttons: These buttons look rather like a ring with an over-sized diamond in them. Stud buttons or jeans buttons: These are much like shank buttons but instead of a hole they have a pin which is attached through the fabric to secure the button in place.

TYPES OF BUTTON Toggles: Long, skinny and often rounded, toggles can be used as buttons in buttonholes or with a loop fastening. Snaps or poppers: These metal or plastic fasteners snap together with a pop. Hook and eye fastenings: Another alternative to buttons, hook and eye fastenings are made of a loop and a catch.

PROBLEMS 1. The button consumption per garment is 7 pieces. If the button price is $12. 00 per GG, how much will be the cost of button for one dozen garment considering 3% wastage? Solution: 1 gross = 1728 pieces Consumption of button for 1 dozen garments=7 x 12 pieces = 84 pieces Price of 1728 pieces of button = $ 12 So, Price of 84 pieces of button = $12 x 84/1728 = $ 0. 5833 Cost of button for 1 dozen garments considering 3% wastage = $ 0. 5833 x 1. 03 = $ 0. 60 Answer: Cost of button for 1 dozens of garments will be $ 0. 60.

PROBLEMS 2. If the sewing thread consumption is 180 meter per garment and price of a Cone of sewing thread is US $. 40 which contains 4000 meters of thread. Find out the cost of sewing thread for one dozen garments considering 12% wastage. 3. If the Elastic consumption is 15 inch per garments and elastic price is US$ 3. 00 per roll which contains 50 yards, Find out the cost of elastic for 1 dozen garments considering 8 % wastage.

LABEL Label: Label is a component of garments which indicates various instructions about the garments.

TYPE OF LABELS 1. Main Label: Generally this is a design or brand name.

TYPE OF LABELS 2. Care Label: Care label contains clear washing instructions.

TYPE OF LABELS 3. Size label: Size label Indicates size of the garment

TYPE OF LABELS 4. Country of Origin (Co. O) label: Country of Origin should be mentioned in this label

TYPE OF LABELS 5. Barcode label: Barcode is printed in this label so that all required information including price may get by Scanning barcode.

TYPE OF LABELS 6. Composition Label: Information regarding constituting materials with percentage (%) is mentioned in this label

INTERNATIONAL CARE LABELLING Care label: Care label shows the care instructions of the garments by some internationally recognized signs. It shows washing, drying, bleaching, ironing and dry cleaning instructions. ► Washing ► Chlorine bleach ► Ironing code ► Dry cleaning condition ► Drying condition

PERMANENT PRESS AND DRIP DRY ► Permanent Press : ► Permanent press cycle agitates and spins more gently. These fabrics aren't heavy-weight, and don't need the stronger spin to get out enough water. ► Dry cycle is set your dryer at low heat on gentle. It has a cool down time as well. ► Drip Dry ► To dry into a desired form and shape

ZIPPER

ZIPPER ►A zipper is a fastener, a commonly used device for temporarily joining two edges of fabric. It is used in clothing (e. g. , jackets and jeans), luggage and other bags, sporting goods, camping gear (e. g. , tents and sleeping bags), and other items. ► Zippers for the general public were not produced until the 1920 s

DIFFERENT PARTS OF A ZIPPER 1. Top tape extension 2. Top stop 3. Slider 4. Pull Tab 5. Tape 6. Chain Width 7. Bottom stop 8. Bottom Tape extensio 9. Single tape width 10. Insertion pin boll 11. Retainer box 12. Reinforcement film

TYPES OF ZIPPER DEPENDING ON END: Open end zipped: ► Right insertion of sleeve & left puller (Men’s) ► Left insertion of sleeve & Right puller (Women’s) Closed ► Not end zipped: detachable DEPEND ON TEETH SIZE: 3 SIZE 4 SIZE 5 SIZE It depends on teeth length, if 3 mm then size 3.

TYPES OF ZIPPER DEPEND ON TAPE: Polyester: tape material is made up with polyester fiber Cotton: tape material is made up with cotton fiber DEPEND ON PULLER: Double puller: two puller is available Single: one puller is available DEPEND ON SLIDER LOCK: Auto lock: Slider runs when puller is down position Semi lock: Slider runs when puller is straight position Non lock: lock function is not available

TYPES OF ZIPPER DEPEND ON TEETH MATERIAL: Nylon (Coil) zipper is manufactured with polyester tape sewing with shaped polyester monofilament to function as teeth. Vislon: made of injected plastic elements, such as polyacetal resin. Metal : Various metals including golden brass, nickel, aluminum, manganese, and an antique metal is used in teeth.

VISLON ZIPPER

NYLON ZIPPER

METAL ZIPPER

MANUFACTURING OF ZIPPER ► Japan makes 90% of the world's zippers ► One large manufacturer is YKK, with production facilities in 68 countries, and the world’s largest zipper manufacturing center in Macon, Georgia, USA. ► Almost all the rest are made in South Asia and East Asia. Major zipper manufacturing countries in South Asia are now Bangladesh, India and Pakistan.

REQUIRED QUALITY OF A ZIPPER AZO Free Nickel Free Non magnetic. Non toxic Zipper teeth is not shrink, so zipper tape should be shrink free. Fabric should have max 3% Shrinkage otherwise garment would be wavy Zipper slider should to slide/run easily.

SEWING THREAD Sewing thread is a flexible, small diameter yarn or strand usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant or both, intended to be used to stitch one or more pieces of material. It may be defined as smooth, evenly spun, hard-twisted ply yarn, treated by a special finishing process to make it resistant to stresses in its passage through the eye of a needle and through material involved in.

THREAD PACKAGE: CONE

REQUIRED PROPERTIES OF A SEWING THREAD ► Sewing thread should have following properties Uniform and fault free: Sewing thread must pass freely through the small eye of the needle; consequently they must be uniform, knot-free, non-torque and fault free. Good tensile strength: Sewing thread should holds the stitched seam securely during wash and wear. So the tensile strength of the sewing thread must be acceptable/good so that the sewing thread does not rupture during use. Smooth surface: Smooth surface of sewing thread ensures less friction between the needle and the material during highspeed sewing, so surface of the sewing thread should be smooth.

REQUIRED PROPERTIES OF A SEWING THREAD Good elasticity: Elasticity of sewing thread must closely match the elasticity of the fabric being sewn. Good abrasion resistance: ensures a good sewing performance and makes the thread more durable. Resistance to Heat: The needle temperature is especially critical for fabrics and sewing threads of thermoplastic fibres, where it may exceed their melting temperature. Lubrication of sewing thread with a mixture of wax, emulsions with synthetic resins, and silicon based products may minimize heat generation. Minimal metamerism: Metamerism is an inherent property of a thread when the same thread color appears to be different under different lighting conditions. Metamarism of sewing thread should be minimal.

REQUIRED PROPERTIES OF A SEWING THREAD Hairiness: The hairiness of sewing thread also affects the appearance of the seam. Sewing threads for decorative seams are singed and glossbrushed. Twist direction: The final direction of twist may be important to stitch formation mechanism. Most sewing machine require Z twist, but there a few where performance is better with S twist. Luster: Good luster in the thread improves appearance of the seam. Good resistance to chemical attack: A desirable property for sewing thread used in garments which may undergo washing, bleaching or dry-cleaning.

REQUIRED PROPERTIES OF A SEWING THREAD Color fastness: It is important that the selected shade retain its color throughout the life of the garment. Two aspects of fastness are important: • The thread must not change color. • The thread must not stain any material adjacent to the seam. Shrinkage: Low shrinkage during washing is required.

COUNT OF SEWING THREAD Count – The overall thickness of the final thread is referred to ‘Ticket Number’, ‘Tex’ or ‘Count’. Thread should be as fine as possible depending on the required strength of seam. Generally, thicker threads have greater strength, given the same fibre content and yarn structure.

THREAD The thickness of sewing threads is defined by ‘Tex’ or ‘Tkt. (Ticket) number’ and these two thread numbering terms are widely used as because mostly polyester threads are used for garment sewing. A same thickness of thread will have two different figure in these two systems. To reduce the confusion between Tex and Tkt. number, thread manufacturers marked both numbering system on thread spool.

MEASURING THICKNESS/COUNT OF SEWING THREAD Tex Numbering: Tex is a metric system of textile yarn and thread numbering. Tex is defined as weight of 1000 meters thread in grams. For example, Tex 40 – a length of 1000 meters of thread will give 40 grams of weight. To convert any Tex Number to a Ticket Number value: divide 1, 000 by the Tex number and multiply by 3. Tkt. = (1000/Tex No. ) X 3 or Tkt. = Nm X 3

CONVERSION ‘TEX’ TO ‘TICKET NUMBER’ Q: If Tex value is 40, what would be its ticket number? We know, Tkt. = (1000/Tex No. ) X 3 So, here ticket =(1000/40)x 3 = 75

COUNT OF SEWING THREAD Note: Ticket numbers resemble the fixed weight They can simply denote: Higher the ticket number, finer the thread. Lower the ticket number, thicker the thread. A thread of Tkt. 60 is twice as coarse as Tkt. 120. system.

CLASSIFICATION OF SEWING THREAD According to Fibre type: ► Natural. ► Synthetic. Linen. Silk. Cotton. Viscose Polyester. Nylon thread. Aramid. PTFE. According to Construction: Mono filament. Multi filament. Textured thread. Core spun thread.

PROPERTIES: SEWING THREAD FROM SYNTHETIC FIBERS Polyester: Ideal Sewing Thread, Cause ► Made up of staple fibre or filament. ► Strength – high. ► Elastic property – Good. ► Color fastness – Good. ► Shrinkage property – good / reasonable. ► Does not create problem in washing even ► Low cost. ► Available found and maximum used. in 150ºC.

CORE-SPUN THREAD

MACHINE WISE SEWING THREAD CONSUMPTION : (FOR 1 INCH STITCH) Machine No. of Needle Thread consumption per inch Plain 1 2. 5’’ Plain 2 5’’ Over Lock 3 16’’ Over Lock 4 18’’ Over Lock 5 21’’ Flat Lock 3 19’’ Flat Lock 5 32’’ Bar Tack ----- (7 -8)’’ per operation Button Hole ----- (6 -7)’’ per hole Button Attaching – 2 hole ----- 4’’ per Button Feed of the arm - FOA ----- 4’’ per one needle Kansai stitching ----- 4’’ per one needle