FibreYarnFabric Topics Yarn Yarn is a long continuous

Fibre-Yarn-Fabric Topics: Yarn

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and rope making. Yarn can be made from any number of natural or synthetic fibers. In other word, Yarn can be defined as a product of substantial length and relatively small cross section consisting of fibres or filament with or without twist.

Yarn Manufacturing Carded Yarn Manufacturing Flow Chart Input Machine Name Output Raw Cotton Blow Room Machine Lap or Chute Carding Machine Carded Sliver 1 st Drawing Frame Drawing Sliver 2 nd Drawing Frame Drawing Sliver Finisher Drawing Frame Drawing Sliver Simplex Machine Roving Ring Frame Yarn (Bobbin) Winding Machine Yarn (Cone)

Yarn Manufacturing Combed Yarn Manufacturing Flow Chart Input Machine Name Output Raw Cotton Blow Room Machine Lap or Chute Carding Machine Carded Sliver Pre Comber Drawing Frame Drawing Sliver Super Lap Former Mini Lap Combing Machine Combed Sliver Finisher Drawing Sliver Simplex Machine Roving Ring Frame Yarn (Bobbin) Winding Machine Yarn (Cone)

Yarn Manufacturing Rotor Yarn Manufacturing Flow Chart Input Machine Name Output Raw Cotton Blow Room Machine Lap or Chute Carding Machine Carded Sliver 1 st Drawing Frame Drawing Sliver 2 nd Drawing Frame Drawing Sliver Finisher Drawing Frame Drawing Sliver Rotor Spinning Frame Rotor Yarn (Bobbin) Winding Machine Yarn (Cone)

LAP Roving Sliver Yarn

Functions of Various Machine Name of Machine Functions Blow Room Opening, Cleaning and mixing blending of fibre. Carding § To individualize the fibre. § To straighten the fibre. § Mixing blending of fibre. § Removing of dust. § To form sliver. Drawing machine To increase the evenness of sliver. Mixing blending is done if need. Combing machine To remove the short fibre for producing better quality yarn. Simplex machine To reduce thickness of sliver and produce roving. Ring Frame To reduce thickness of roving and form into yarn.

Difference Between Carded, Combed & Rotor Yarn Subjects Combed Carded Rotor Count Finer Medium Coarser Quality Better Medium Lower Cost Higher Medium Lower Machine Needed Large number Average number Small number Short fibre Absent Present but small Present number Strength Higher Medium Lower Regularity Even & regular Average Uneven & irregular

Winding q Winding means to transfer of yarn from one package to another large package. Objects of winding q To get long length of yarn. q Waxing is done to reduce the yarn hairiness. q To reduce the transportation cost. q To reduce the inventory cost. q To reduce the package cost.

Yarn Twist q Twist is the measure of the spiral turns given to yarn in order to hold the fibres or threads together. q Twist is necessary to give a yarn coherence and strength. q Twist is primarily instructed in to a staple yarn in order to hold the constituent fibres together, thus giving strength to the yarn. Yarn Twist Measuring Unit Ø TPI (Twist Per Inch) Ø TPM (Twist Per Meter) Ø TPCm (Twist Per Centimeter)

Twist Direction q Z Twist: If spiral turns are given into the yarn in clockwise direction then it is called Z twist. q S Twist: If spiral turns are given into the yarn in anticlockwise direction then it is called S twist of yarn.

TPI Depends on. Primarily twist is proportional to yarn strength that means yarn strength is increases with the increasing of yarn twist. But after a certain limit, with the increasing of yarn twist strength is decreases and then occurs yarn rupture. So number of twist depends on- q Yarn strength q Cost of yarn q Length of fibre q End use of yarn q Machine used for twisting

Yarn Evenness or Regularity q Yarn evenness is a measure of the level of yarn diameter along its length. In other word, it means variation of yarn count. q Normally it is measured by mass per unit length of yarn. If mass per unit length is equal along the yarn is regular. q Yarn imperfection causes irregularity. Yarn imperfection means thick place, thin place and neps present in the yarn. q Yarn imperfection is unwanted in many cases. But slightly imperfection is wanted only for producing of slub yarn.

Yarn Count or Linear Density Count is the relation between mass and length of yarn. Count is a numerical value which indicates the coarseness or fineness of yarn. According to Textile Institute, Count is a mathematical expression indicates the mass per unit length or length per unit mass of yarn.

Types of Yarn Count q Direct Count: In this system count indicates the mass per unit length of yarn. Such as, Tex Count (NT), Denier Count (ND) etc. Tex Count: Mass of 1000 m of yarn measured in gm is called the Tex count of yarn. If 1000 m yarn mass is 20 gm then yarn count is 20 Tex. Denier Count: Mass of 9000 m of yarn measured in gm is called the Denier Count of yarn. If 9000 m yarn mass is 120 gm then yarn count is 120 denier. In Direct System, Yarn will be coarser when count increases.

q Indirect Count: In this system, count indicates the length per unit mass of yarn. Such as English count or Cotton count (NE), Metric Count (NM). English Count: No. of hank of 840 yards in 1 lbs (pound) of yarn indicates the English count of yarn. From 1 lbs of yarn, if we make 30 hank of 840 yards then English Count is 30 NE. Metric Count: No. of hank of 1000 meters in 1 Kg of yarn indicates the Metric count of yarn. From 1 Kg of yarn, if we make 50 hank of 1000 meters then Metric Count is 30 NM. In Indirect System, Yarn will be finer if Count is increases.

Measuring Formula Where, L = Length of Yarn L' = Length Unit W = Weight of Yarn W' = Weight Unit

Length and Weight Unit Count Types Direct Count Name Short Name Length Unit (L') Weight Unit (W') Tex Count NT 1000 m 1 gm Denier Count ND 9000 m 1 gm English Count NE 840 yards 1 lbs NM 1000 meter 1 kg Indirect Count Metric Count

Some Necessary Conversion 1 Meter 1 Yard 1 Inch 1 Lea 1 lbs 1 Kg = 1. 0936 Yard = 0. 9144 Meter = 36 Inch = 2. 54 cm = 25. 4 mm = 120 Yard = 16 oz = 7000 Grain = 2. 2046 lbs = 453. 6 gm = 0. 453 kg = 1000 gm

Self Study 1) If 1 lea yarn weight is 2. 4 gm then find out its English count and Tex Count. 2) If 1090 yard yarn weight is 120 gm then find out its Tex count and Metric Count. 3) If 18900 m yarn weight is 0. 5 kg then find out its English Count and Denier Count. 4) If 1 lea yarn weight is 3. 4 gm then find out its Tex and Denier count and Metric Count. 5) Find out English, Tex, Denier and Metric count of yarn when 1 lea yarn weight is 2. 6 gm.

Count Conversion

So Think Yourself Which one is finer between 20 Tex and 20 English Yarn?

Properties of a Good Yarn q Reasonable strength q Reasonable uniformity q High amount of fibre q Less amount of short fibre q Correct amount of twist q Correct count q Good handle q Good drape quality q Specific elasticity q Good dye absorbency

Assessment of Yarn q Fibre contents of yarn q Fibre quality q Strength q Number of fibre in its cross section q Number of short fibre q Elastic properties q Number of twist q Evenness of yarn q End use of yarn

Mixing & Blending Mixing or blending is combining of different kinds and different qualities of fibres together in haphazard proportion or based on measurement to improve their physical properties. For example, mixing of lower quality cotton to higher quality cotton, mixing of cotton and polyester etc. Objectives of Mixing & Blending q To improve the physical properties such as strength, comfortness, softness, water absorbency etc. q To reduce the cost. q To improve the quality.

Why Cotton & Polyester are Mixed Together- § § § To increase the average strength. To increase the comfort ability. To increase the crease resistance power. To increase the durability. To reduce the cost. To get average luster.

CVC Yarn CVC means Chief Value of Cotton and polyester fibres are blend together but cotton percentage is more. Such as, 65/35 CVC means 65% cotton and 35% polyester. This type of yarn has higher comfortability with less strength. PC Yarn PC means Polyester Cotton and polyester fibres are blend together and but polyester percentage is more than cotton. This type of yarn is characterized by higher strength with less comfort.

Classification of Yarn On the Basis of Fibre Length q Staple Yarn- composed of short-staple fibers that are twisted or otherwise bonded together. Staple yarns are fuzzy yarn with protruding ends q Filament Yarn- Filament yarns are composed of long fibre grouped together with or without twist. There are two types-

q Mono Filament Yarn: This types of yarns are made from a continuous filament. It has no twist. It is comparatively coarse and stiff. Cutting ends are sharp. q Multi Filament Yarn: These types of yarns are made from more than one filament twisted together. Flexible yarns are manufactured by applying twist on filament yarn and then twist setting. These type of threads are made from polyester and it is very strong. It has low cost.

On the Basis of Fibre Content q Natural Yarn: The yarn which is made from natural fibre is called natural yarn. Such as, cotton yarn, linen yarn etc. q Synthetic Yarn: The yarn which is made from synthetic fibre is called synthetic yarn. Such as, polyester yarn, nylon yarn. q Blend Yarn: Blend yarn is made from both natural and synthetic fibre blend together. Such as, polyetser cotton blended. q Green Yarn: Eco-friendly yarns are called green yarn. This type of yarns are made from natural fibre without using any chemical such as organic cotton.

On the Basis of Amount of Twist q Low Twist: Used to only hold the yarn or fibre together in case of multifilament yarn. Only 1 -2 turns per inch. q Average twist: Most common for staple fiber yarns; most durable spun yarns. q Hard twist: Harsher hand & more turns per inch q Crepe yarns: Highest TPI (40 -80); twist & kink when removed from fabric

On the Basis of Structure q Single Yarn: Spun yarn made by mechanically assembly or twisted together. Such as, Carded yarn, Rotor yarn etc. q Plied Yarn: A piled yarn is sometimes called folded yarn also. Two or more single yarns are twisted together and plied yarns are made. q Cord Yarn: Cord yarns is also called cable yarn. Two or more plied yarns are twisted together and cord yarns are made.

On the Basis of Their End Use q Weaving Yarn: Yarns that are used in production of woven fabric. Normally stronger, higher twist, good regularity and less hairiness. q Knitted Yarn: Yarns that are used in the production of knit fabric. Normally stronger, lower twist but lower quality than weaving yarn.

On the Basis of Regularity q Simple Yarn: This are spun or filament yarn alike in all the area of the yarn. The yarns are almost same in appearance in the area. q Fancy Yarn: Yarns that are deliberately have unlike parts and are irregular at intervals. Irregularity may be found in random or regular interval. Named for the effect that dominates fabric. There are many kind of fancy yarn.

q Slub Yarn: The yarn which contains thick and thin places in regular or random interval. q Corkscrew Yarn: It contains two yarn on which one yarn is straight and another one is twisted on the straight yarn. q Crepe Yarn: Crepe yarns are made by tightening the twist given to the yarn resulting in a kinked or looped yarn. q Melange Yarn: Different colors of fibres are blend together and produces melange yarn. The yarns have different color on the surface depends on number of colored fibres.

Marl Yarn Gimp Yarn Diamond yarn Buckle Yarn Loop Yarn Snarl Yarn

Knop Yarn Fascinated Yarn Tape yarn Chainette Yarn Chinelle Yarn Metallic Yarn

Special Type of Yarn q Core Spun Yarn: Core spun yarns are two component structure with Core and Sheath. Generally continuous filament yarn is used as core and the staple fibres used as sheath covering. The core-spun yarn used to enhance functional properties of the fabrics such as strength, durability and stretch comfort. q Textured Yarn: A term used to describe filament yarn that has been treated to change its hand, increase bulk or increase stretch. Normally it is done by texturing more continuous filaments together.

Sewing Thread The yarn is plied to make sewing thread and may be treated with solid or semi solid waxy materials to secure a smooth, compact strand that is quite flexible but that presents no loose fibres.

Difference Between Yarn & Sewing Thread Yarn is single where as sewing thread are always plied. Sewing thread may contain two or more ply of yarn. Sewing thread are treated with waxy like finishing materials but yarn does not contains finishing materials. Yarn may be contains loose fibre on its surface where as sewing threads surface is smooth and flexible. Most of the case sewing thread strength is higher than yarn strength.

Yarn Defects q Count variation q Yarn irregularity q Frequent occurring faults (Thick place, Thin Place and neps) q Seldom occurring faults (Long thick place, Long thin place) q Yarn hairiness q Bad piecing q Lot mixing