Fibers Animal fibers Plant fibers Semisynthetic artificial fibers
Fibers Animal fibers Plant fibers Semi-synthetic / artificial fibers Synthetic fibers
Animal Fibers n n n Wool Silk Proteins more elastic Denature at high temperature Susceptible to moths and silverfish
Semi-synthetic / Artificial Fibers n n Processed from natural fibers Polymers of cellulose Biodegradable Rayon (art silk) n n High luster or sheen Acetate (cellulose acetate) n Satin
Synthetic Fibers Nylon n Polyester n Acrylic n Polyolefin n Spandex n
Plant Fibers Cellulose n Lignin (hard) n More absorbent n Temperature stable n
Plant Fibers - Types n Textiles n n n Seed and fruit fibers - cotton Soft or bast fibers - linen, hemp, ramie Hard or leaf fibers - sisal, abaca, Manila hemp Rough Weaving palms, bamboos Filling fibers - kapok, milkweed
Textiles n n n Fibers can be spun into long threads or yarns Fabric fibers different from rope fibers Round fibers feels silkier Elasticity of fiber Environmental sensitivity n n Heat, sun, microbes, acids etc. Use natural color, bleach white, or color dye
Fiber Plants Plant 1000 metric tons Area Cotton 18, 300 Asia, Americas Jute 2, 900 Asia Flax (linen) 625 Asia, Europe Sisal 380 South America Ramie 170 Asia Hemp 70 Asia, Europe
Cotton n n Mallow family Gossypium hirsutum and G. barbadense n n Tetraploid Mexico and Central America South America (Peru) Gossypium herbaceum and G. arboreum n n Diploid Africa and India
Cotton Uses n Fiber or lint n n Linters n n n Cotton cloth and fabric Fuzz part on the seed Cellulose for plastic explosives Added to quality paper Furniture stuffing Seed n n n Cottonseed oil (cooking) Meal (animal feed or fertilizer) Hulls or stalks (plowed to enrich soil)
Cotton - History New World Cotton n Gossypium hirsutum & G. barbadense n Longer fibers n 10, 000 years ago in Peru n n n Semi-domesticated 5, 000 years ago 8, 000 years ago in Mexico Throughout South America and West Indies Brought to Egypt and Old World 90% of cotton grown today in world
Cotton - History Old World Cotton n Gossypium arboreum & G. herbaceum n Short fibers n 7, 000 years ago in India n Spread Westward to Persia and Arab world n Cloth muslin named from Muslims n Spain and Europe n n Linen used more than cotton Trees that grow wool
Cotton - History n England early 1700's, Against the law to either import or manufacture cloth from cotton n Protect the powerful English sheep and wool industry n Impacted American Colonies n
Cotton - History n Deep South cotton cultivation One-crop economy n Slave-labor economy n Principle economic cause of the Civil War n End of slavery and the exhaustion of the soil pushed the Cotton Belt West n
Cotton - History n Slavery decreasing in 1790 n n Tobacco growing major use of slavery 700, 000 slaves in 6 states 1. 5 million pounds of cotton 1860 n n Cotton Gin by Eli Whitney 1793 Larger plantations 4 million slaves in 15 states 2275 million pounds of cotton
Cotton Today Country China Amount (1, 000 bales) 2009/2010 - 1 bale = 480 lbs 32. 5 India 23. 5 United States 12. 2 Pakistan 8. 9 Brazil 5. 9. Uzbekistan 4. 1
Cotton Today 2003 -2008 average/year State Amount (1000 bales) Texas 6, 313 Mississippi 2, 131 Arkansas 2, 058 Georgia 1, 992 California 1, 898
Cotton Gin n n Separate lint from seed Eli Whitney 1793 Problem with patent Enhanced ginning n n n 1. 5 million pounds 2275 million pounds Father of mass production Changed the South Increased slavery
Cotton Processing n n n Picking machines that beat the fibers and remove undesired material Combing Spinning Cleaning by boiling Decolorize or bleaching n n Chlorine Peroxide
Cotton Processing n Mercerizing 1844 n n n Treat fiber with Na. OH Flat threads to swollen round threads Stronger Easier to dye Sizing n n n Treated with starch or gel Enhances firmness Reduces soiling
Cotton Processing n Sanforization n 1970 Swells cotton and reduces shrinkage Permanent press n Chemical formation of cellulose cross bridges
Cotton Pests n Boll weevil or pink bollworm n n Transgenic cotton >40% n n n Attacks cotton boll Tilling of soil and/or crop rotation Insecticides BT cotton kills some insects and bollworm Bollguard II Nematodes n n n Attacks roots Crop rotation Pesticides
Cotton and the Environment n n n Use of herbicides and pesticides Irrigated water for growing and flooding bollworm in winter Organic cotton n n < 1% of total cotton grown 35% increase in world production from 2008 -2009 (Organic Exchange Farm and Fiber Report 2009)
Soft or Bast Fibers n n Jute, linen, ramie and hemp Outer part of stem Phloem and tissue outside phloem Retting n Decomposition of outer stem by microbes and chemicals
Jute Corchorus capsularis n n n n Mallow family Fiber from stems The golden fiber (natural color) Also called burlap and hessian Grown in India and Bangladesh Prices low in 1980 s Production up since 2004
Jute - Uses n n n n Cloth Twine Rope Sacks Handbags Carpet backing Landscape and erosion control Pulp for paper
Jute n Most environmental-friendly fiber n n Requires little fertilizers and pesticides 4 -6 months to grow Biodegradable Fiber can be reused
Flax n Flax fibers n n Phloem of stem Linen Cigarette paper and money Flax seeds n n n Linseed oil Paints, varnishes Linoleum Medicinal laxative Food source
Flax and Linen n n n Linum usitatissimum Egypt and Turkey Classic Greeks and Romans used linen European use Phloem of stems 15 -40 fibers per bundle
Flax Processing n n Retting Dried and crushed to free fibers Combed Bleached n n Sun or chemicals Spun into yarn or thread
Ramie - Boehmeria nivea n n Nettle family China n n n Loop-hole in U. S. trade laws Bark of plant Lustrous and silky Fiber 8 times stronger than cotton Brittle because of pectins and gums
Hemp - History n n n China 6, 000 -10, 000 years ago Used for sails, rope, shoes, clothes, and paper Medicinal uses of seeds and plant Draft of Declaration of Independence on hemp paper Agriculture encouraged by Washington and Jefferson First Levis’ made from hemp
Hemp - History n n n 75%+ of paper made from hemp prior to 1880 Cotton becomes king (mechanized) Marijuana Tax Act n n n Outlaws marijuana Prohibits hemp farming Hearst corporation hold vast lumber tracts Dupont makes nylon and chemicals for paper processing from wood Politics - threat to corporation
Hemp - History n 1943 victory farming n n Manila hemp Today’s production Canada 1998 States n n Sell hemp products Bills to legalize production
Hemp - Uses n Fiber (stems) n n Textiles Paper Rope Seeds n n Foods Cooking oils Cosmetic oils Animal meal 25% protein
Hemp Fiber Products n n n Upholstery Wall covering Draperies Bed & bath linens Outdoor furniture Awnings n n n Tarps Pet supplies Rope Paper Apparel
Hemp n n n Environmental-friendly fiber Fewer pesticides and fertilizers than cotton Less water required than cotton More expensive than cotton More productive per acre n n n 2 -3 X > cotton for textiles 4 X > wood for paper Hemp paper recycled 2. 5 X > tree paper
Leaf or Hard Fibers n n n Usually leaves of monocots Agave sisalana and A. fourcroydes Rope, sacks, and string Soft tissue soaked and scraped from fibers Washed and dried
Sisal and Henequen n n Agave sisalana and A. fourcroydes Rope, sacks, and string Soft tissue soaked and scraped from fibers Washed and dried
Rough Weaving Fibers Plants n Palms n Bamboo n Papyrus n Pine needles n Etcetera Uses n Shoes n Baskets n Hats n Mats n Wicket work
Filling Fibers • Kapok • South America • Padding, stuffing, pillows, and life preservers • No ginning required • Milkweed
Fibers used by Indians n n n Kumeyaay Yucca, ribbonbush, willow bark, deergrass, juncus, three leaf sumac Rope, weaving, clothes, shelters
Incas n n Boats Armor Slings Suspension bridges n 300 years before Europeans
Dyes n n Animal, plant and synthetic sources Dye must bind to the fibers Direct dyes Mordant dyes n n n Chemicals that enhance chemical bonds Change the color Salts of tin, aluminum, iron and chromium
Blue Dyes n n n n Woad Isatis tinctoria Mustard family Temperate area of Europe Blue dye indigotine Smelly process Fibers dyed greenish Blue with acid and oxidation Celtics body paint
Blue Dyes n n n Indigofera tinctoria China 6000 years ago Leaves soaked in water Blue when oxidized British banned indigo because of woad trade
Red Dyes n n n n Madder Rubia tinctorum Related to Coffee and quinine Roots of plant Tory “Redcoats’ of British Army Cochineal Scale insect Dactylopius coccus
Dyes n Saffron - yellow – orange n Logwood - black n n Annatto (achiote) red - yellow (butter, cheese)
Kumeyaay Dyes n n n Elderberry (purple and black) Willow Acorn caps (dark brown) Alder (red) Indigo bush stem (yellow)
Dyes n Synthetic dyes n n Aniline Derivatives of coal tar
Tannins and Tanning n n n Important to leather industry Protects animal fibers from microbes Remove hairs n n Singe, calcium oxide, or enzymes Variety of species for tannins
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