FAUX MARBLE MAIN TECHNIQUES OF IMITATION OF MARBLE

FAUX MARBLE

MAIN TECHNIQUES OF IMITATION OF MARBLE 1) PAINTED OVER PLASTER OR WOOD 2) PASTE (ARTIFICIAL MARBLE)

1) PAINTED • the plaster can be made with lime and / or gypsum with fine sand or marble powder (“stucco”) • the decoration can be done with “fresco” or “dry” techniques • After the decoration is dry, proceed to polish with Marseille soap and / or beeswax, using a hot or cold method

v “FRESCO” TECHNIQUE The dye consists of pigment diluted in water, applied over the final layer of plaster before it has cooled completely (about two hours after we laid the plaster). It is the same technique that the painters use to make figurative “frescoes”. This way the color penetrates a few millimeters into the plaster for and the painting, after carbonation, is incorporated and very durable.

v “DRY” TECHNIQUE Faux “fresco” The finishing layer of plaster is refreshed by applying lime water or just water. The colors are diluted with lime water Tempera Painting The word “tempera” means a color mixture dissolved in water with the addition of an adhesive substance. The resistance of the “tempera” is due to the adhesive used but it is a type of finish with similar resistance to the faux “fresco” The glues used in the past were organic, such as vegetable glues (flour, starch, all very hygroscopic) or animal glues (egg, milk, casein)

v OIL COLORS TECHNIQUE The pigments are diluted and sometimes mixed with essential oils or with wax and resin. It is possible to superimpose the colors when the previous layer is dry

Execution steps of the fresco technique In order to have a realistic imitation, two conditions are necessary: 1 - a realistic imitation of colors and grains of marble or stone 2 - a smooth surface that may be subsequently polished. v We'll also have to establish, for example, a hypothetical division into slabs: in fact, the imitation must reproduce what would have been a real work in marble or stone even under these technical aspects. Therefore we split the wall in equal zones of size similar to the real slabs, roughly between 60 and 80 cm. In the realization of the grain you will have the foresight to make them with different inclination in adjacent plates to emphasize the detachment. v We will define the borders of the area to be painted with masking tape

We prepare the necessary colors: one for the base and the other for the nuances and grains of our marble. The foundation will be of the prevailing colors of the marble.

When the color is still wet, we can use a sponge or a rag to stain and fade it. We draw the grains of marble, first one color and then another and so on, in a realistic way using different brushes.

The polishing step can be done using two systems: cold or warm. 1. Cold system: We repeatedly smooth out the surface using metal tools (trowel, American)

- then we apply soap or wax - we have to strongly and insistently polish the surface with a soft cloth

2. Warm system We use an iron blade to smooth out the surface, then, after about three or four hours, we run the warm iron over the plaster (but not too hot, about 45 °C) to obtain transparency. We rub warm water and soap or liquid wax (that has been diluted by 10 -12%) over the plaster several times smoothing it out with the warm iron. The iron must be cleaned after the operation. 2. - If you don’t have a plaster iron you can use a regular iron (no steam)

Plaster iron

At work!

EXAMPLES