Cruising the East Caribbean Islands Puerto Rico to

Cruising the East Caribbean Islands: Puerto Rico to Grenada. Presented by Curt Epperson. Photos By Mary Epperson Copyright: 2018 Personal use allowed. Produced by www. boativated. com curt@boativated. com

• Resources: Books. • • Free Cruising Guides online: www. freecruisingguides. com The 2017 -2018 Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands by Nancy Scott and Simon Scott The Cruising Guide to the Northern Leeward Islands by Chris Doyle The Cruising Guide to the Southern Leeward Islands by Chris Doyle The 2017 -2018 Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands by Chris Doyle Cruising the Virgin Islands Planning Map by Burrows Bay Associate Cruising the Virgin Islands by Joe Russell and Mark Bunzel (Wait for 2018 edition) • • • Online Google Earth. Active Captain http: //www. activecaptain. com/ CSSN: Caribbean Safety and Security Net https: //safetyandsecuritynet. org • • Magazines Caribbean Compass All At Sea

Active Captain A very useful online resource. http: //www. activecaptain. com/livemap Active Captain Anchorage Info. Active Captain Marina Info. Active Captain Local Knowledge (shopping, repairs, etc. ) Active Captain Navigation Comments

CSSN: The Caribbean Safety and Security Net. This safety and security voice net was begun in 1996 by Frank Zachar on Vagabond Tiger, . Subsequently, Bob and Robin Jones on Elixer (now Buster) took over the Net, coining the name “Caribbean Safety and Security Net“, and started keeping a paper log of security events. They were assisted and eventually replaced by Don and Judith Kline on Daisy D. Don began keeping the first electronic records in a Paradox database. Don was joined by Melodye and John Pompa on Second Millennium for backup and relays. Melodye became the Net Controller in August 1999 and in 2007, she developed the first website, www. safetyandsecuritynet. org, which included five years of historic data. She added information that addressed the most frequently asked questions that came up on the net. In June 2012, Harm Brink of Horta took over the responsibilities of Net Control. In early 2013, Kim White of Gabrielle developed and administered our first user survey, . Mary Stone of Ms. Astor joined the team in June of 2014 and now does special projects. Ken Kurlychek of Mary T joined the team in April 2016. Kim continues to provide overall coordination of CSSN activities, with the help and support of the all volunteer CSSN team. In November 2016, we welcomed Oliver O’Sullivan, of Lady Alice De Serk as associate webmaster to our growing team. https: //safetyandsecuritynet. org/

Planning a Caribbean Cruise Where to Begin • Puerto Rico: • • • Advantages 1. Easy and less expensive access by major airlines. 2. Modern, well managed marinas on east coast of PR 3. One day from USVI (St. Thomas, St. John, St. Croix) 4. Easy car rental (with delivery and pick up at Marinas) 5. Excellent provisioning choices (Costco, Sams Club, Wal Mart, major chain grocery stores). Mainland prices on most items. • 6. Excellent cruising grounds close by: (Vieques, Culebra) • 7. No Customs and Immigration hassles (PR is U. S. territory) • • • Disadvantages: 1. Need a rental car to access major stores. 2 Full day from popular USVI islands 3. Passage across open water of Virgin Passage 4 Major hurricane damage.

St. Thomas, USVI • • • • Advantages 1 Easy airplane assess. (more expensive, longer flight than PR) 2 Good shopping. Less choice than PR. No big box stores. 3. Quick access to locations on St. Thomas and St. John. 4. Excellent US National Park anchorages on St. John. 5. 1 day easy access to BVI. 6. Short distance to Culebra (Puerto Rico) 7. No Customs and Immigration upon arrival. Disadvantages 1. Shopping and provisioning more expensive. Less selection. 2. Car rental more expensive. 3. Marinas far more expensive. 4. Higher crime area. Areas of Charlotte Amelie dangerous after dark. • 5. Must go through Customs upon return to PR or mainland U. S. (USVI is a duty free territory. Must declare items purchased and bringing home. ) • 6. Major hurricane damage.

British Virgin Islands • • • • Advantages 1. Huge charter fleet. 2. Good provisioning and shopping choices. (Better than St. Thomas) 3. Easy access to very popular cruising destinations & ancorages. 4. No open water passages required to access destinations. Disadvantages 1. More expensive to arrive and depart by airplane 2. If flying in to St. Thomas, must take a private “ferry” to BVI. 3. Car rental more expensive. Driving on right side of road. 4. Aggressive local drivers. 5. Expensive “cruising fee” for charter boats. 6. Customs and Immigration clearance for entry and exit, and fees. 7. Marinas are very expensive. 8. Private moorings fill most popular anchorages. $30. 00/ night. 9. Popular destinations are crowded during Feb-April. 10 Major hurricane damage. Many marine facilities closed indefinitely.

Starting a Cruise on other Islands • Advantages • 1. Easier access to less crowded locations if you start south of the BVI and USVI. • 2. Opportunity to visit more individual countries and experience local cultures and attractions. • Disadvantages. • 1. Inter-island passages are open ocean experiences (but short). • 2. Must be comfortable with open ocean passages. • 3. Some passages require overnight or beginning before sunrise. • 4 Must be adept at anchoring in close quarters in exposed areas. • 5. Must pay attention to local weather conditions, ocean swells, and squalls. • 6. Much more expensive provisioning. Fewer choices for shopping. (Good shopping on St. Martin, Antigua, Guadeloupe, Martinique, St. Lucia (Rodney Bay), Grenada). • 7. Multiple Customs and Immigration check in and check out. • 8. Major hurricane damage on several islands. (St. Martin, Dominica, Anguilla, Barbuda)

Provisioning Considerations. • 1. Provision the boat for the duration of the cruise if possible. • 2 Best shopping is Puerto Rico. Then, Tortola (Road Town), St. Thomas (Charlotte Amelie), St. Martin (French side), Guadeloupe, Martinique, St. Lucia (Rodney Bay), Grenada. • 3. Buy specialty items or favorites in Puerto Rico, USVI, or BVI. • 4. Canned vegetables, canned fruit, prepared foods such as cereal, milk and dairy products are much more expensive in the 3 rd world areas south of BVI. • 5. If spending 2 -3 months, consider carrying spare parts for your boat. (alternator, starter, raw water pump, fresh water pump, back up chartplotter or tablet computer with electronic charts, etc. ) Even locations like St. Martin and Martinique have shops with limited inventory and multiple weeks for delivery from mainland sources. When parts are available, they are much more expensive. )

Boat Preparation and Gear • In west Puerto Rico, USVI, and BVI, coastal cruising is predominant, no need for open water passages unless desired. (Virgin Passage, north side of St. Thomas, south side of St. John, north side of Tortola. ) • Heading south from USVI or BVI requires open ocean passages (although usually just daylight passages). • Your boat must be equipped for blue water passages and capable of heavy weather cruising. • Ground tackle must be substantial, and redundant. • Dinghy and engine must be comfortable and reliable. • Carry spare parts if possible. • Be flexible. Do not adhere to a rigorous plan or schedule. Adapt to weather conditions. • Have passports, other photo ID, color copies of passports, cash, debit card (for cash machines) and at least two major credit cards. Do not bring damaged, U. S. currency. (folded, torn, defaced bills will not be accepted) • Buy local currency at local banks. (Euro, EC dollars). Do not bring EC dollars back home. They are worthless outside the Caribbean.

Border Crossings. • Many of the East Caribbean islands are separate countries. They require customs and immigration clearance to arrive and depart. • Use local guidebooks and the internet to determine the location and operating hours of government offices. Plan your arrival and departure around those hours. • The French territories are part of France (St. Martin, St. Barts, Guadeloupe, Martinique. ) Clearance is relatively easy, informal, and inexpensive. • Other countries (BVI, Anguilla, Antigua, St. Kitts, Nevis, St. Lucia. St. Vincent, Grenada, ) can be cumbersome, rude, and challenging. In many respects these are 3 rd world countries. Don’t expect everything (like computers) to work. Don’t expect people to hurry. • Some Tips: Have local currency to pay the fees. (Most do not accept credit cards. ) Dress nicely. (nice shorts, shoes, shirt with collar, etc. ) Be respectful and deferential. Never ask for anything special. Have you paperwork ready, especially your departure clearance from prior destination. BRING YOUR OWN PENCIL OR PEN!!!

Weather Resources: ** http: //caribya. com/caribbean/weather/ ** https: //www. caribeez. com/weather/caribbeanweather-forecast ** http: //weathercarib. com/ ** https: //www. mwxc. com/ (Caribbean Weather Center: Chris Parker) ** https: //www. windyty. com ** https: //www. windfinder. com ** https: //forecast. predictwind. com • Ocean weather conditions follow some well defined seasonal patterns. • June – November: Hurricane season. Tropical cyclones are mostly during this time period. Destructive storms sweep through or past the region every year, usually in the months of August, September, October. • Approx. Nov. 15 – Jan. 15. Winter months bring higher than normal winds call “Christmas winds” driven by cold fronts arriving from N. America

Miscellaneous tips. • When traveling between island countries, try to time your arrival during normal business hours for customs and immigration. Most countries allow 24 hours to report in, but don’t leave your boat until you have done so. If you exceed 24 hours you may encounter difficulties. • When traveling between islands, pay close attention to current weather and 24 hour forecasts, including forecasts for swell height and swell direction. Many anchorages will become untenable if a large, northerly swell is running. • Wind speeds can increase dramatically in the “funnel” areas between islands, particularly those with high hills or mountains. When approaching a passage between islands, use binoculars to view boats ahead of you and the change in wind speed as they emerge into the opening. Reef your sails if unsure. • Watch for squalls. Pay attention to weather forecasts that predict squalls. Wind speed can quickly increase dramatically. A 20 knot breeze can quickly become a 35 knot gale. • Plan to arrive in anchorages before dark. Anchoring in an unfamiliar, crowded anchorage after dark is unpleasant and can be dangerous. If leaving before dawn, have a watch on the bow. • Be very aware of personal security. Crime against cruising boats is commonplace. Dinghy theft is rampant. Lock your dinghy and engine with a heavy duty, stainless steel cable when docking, unless told not to by local fisherman (who may need to move your dinghy to land their boats), Raise your dinghy (and lock it) out of the water at night if possible. Lock it to your boat with a cable if it can’t be raised. When ashore, be aware. Do not wear expensive jewelry or chains. Do not carry large amounts of cash. Carry one credit card. Keep back up cards hidden aboard your boat.

Miscellaneous Tips (con’t) • Do not allow un-invited strangers aboard your boat. Do not offer to loan items to strangers. • Buy groceries when you can. Take advantage of provisioning opportunities. If you find a good grocery store, stock up on things you may need. If you end up with excess food at the end of a trip, give it away. • Listen to the local radio cruising nets and participate. In many areas, (St. Martin, Culebra, Grenada, etc. , ) there are radio nets on VHF with local news and tips. It’s a great way to meet people and get information. • Be prepared for loud music at night. Some Islanders love to play loud (and sometimes obnoxious) music all night. Do not anchor in front of a bar or nightclub if you want to get a good nights sleep. Ask other cruisers about this problem. • When shopping at open air markets or stalls, bargain the prices. Tourists are usually quoted much higher prices. Be prepared to negotiate. • When eating at a restaurant, be sure you know the price of things you order. If you don’t ask, you may be overcharged, a lot • Plan cellular service in advance. U. S. plans cover Puerto Rico, and USVI. Most Caribbean companies do not have “roaming” between countries. Check with your U. S. carrier to see if they have a “roaming” option. (It may be expensive. ) Buy an unlocked phone in advance and a TMobile sim card for good inter-island service. (20 cents per minute, unlimited text, unlimited data. ) Plans change frequently. Check before you go. • Do not rely on wireless internet access. Internet service is unreliable and daily service plans can be expensive.

Hurricane Recovery Updates 2018 will be a year of recovery for Puerto Rico, USVI, BVI, St. Martin, St. Bart, Dominica. Check status before planning a trip. http: //www. travelweekly. com/Caribbean. Travel/Caribbean-islands-affected-by-hurricanesmapped http: //caribbeantravelupdate. com http: //www. wimco. com/vacation-travel-reviewsand-blog. aspx? target=/virgin-islands-hurricanerecovery-news/ http: //www. usviupdate. com/ http: //informusvi. com/ http: //www. vinow. com/recovery/

Eastern Puerto Rico, Fajardo & Culebra Two of the best marinas in the E. Caribbean Sun Bay Marina Puerto Del Rey Marina The island of Culebra is part of the territory of Puerto Rico. About 20 nm from Fajardo. Excellent snorkeling in the W. side anchorage off Canal de Luis Pena. Good anchorage in Ensenada Honda (may be crowded)

Culebra photos

St Thomas, U. S Virgin Islands Largest USVI island. International airport. Good harbor at Charlotte Amalie, but crowded Major cruise ship port. Good marina at Redhook Bay. Good anchorage at Megens Bay Park on the north side. Beautiful beach, crowded with cruise ship tourists. St Thomas is good for sightseeing and provisioning.

St Thomas photos Megan’s Bay Beach Christmas Cove Pizza Boat

St. John, U. S. Virgin Islands Much of St. John is U. S. national park Land. Francis Bay and the north shore areas have great beaches and USPS moorings. Leinster Bay has USPS moorings and excellent snorkeling at Waterlemon Cay. Lameshur Bay has six moorings, good snorkeling, hiking and beautiful, secluded scenery. There are numerous USPS moorings at Caneel Bay, just north of Cruz Bay. Go ashore and walk about 1 mile on a good trail to the town of Cruz bay, or take the dingy. Cruz Bay has very limited anchorage, for Customs and Immigration services. Shopping and provisioning is good. Good restaurants and bars.

St John, USVI

British Virgin Islands The BVI has some of the best cruising grounds in the world, but it is very crowded and expensive in the main season, and heavily damaged by the 2017 hurricanes. It could be a 1 hour presentation all on its own.

Anguilla (British) Approximately 80 nm from Virgin Gorda, Anguilla is a beautiful, mostly undeveloped, British island, about 5 nm north of St. Martin. Overnight anchoring is allowed in Sandy Ground harbor. Nice beach. Other bays are restricted and require a permit to visit. Good provisioning, but rental car needed. Rent a car and tour the Island in one day. You can take a ferry to Anguilla from French St. Martin.

Anguilla photos

St. Martin (French & Dutch) St. Martin has a lot to offer, and is the perfect place to stop and rest after exploring and enjoying the Virgin Islands, before heading south to Grenada. But it was badly damaged by the 2017 hurricane and will take years to recover. A overnight trip across Anagoda Passage, or start from Virgin Gorda before daybreak and arrive late afternoon, just before dark. If you want to enter the Lagoon, be sure to arrive before the last bridge opening at 5: 00 pm. Simpson Bay is a crowded, exposed anchorage, so go through the draw bridge, into the Lagoon. It is also crowded, and noisy from the airport, but a fun place to be. Go north of the causeway bridge into France to avoid the anchoring fees and charges on the Dutch side. Great shopping on the Dutch side. Cheaper groceries in France. Listen to the Cruisers VHF net every morning and get to know other people. Anchor in Marigot Bay for a night or two, but beware of N. swells. Grand Case is fun, and there are other spots to visit on the East side of the Island. Take the bus to Philipsburg. Its easy to spend two weeks on this island.

St Martin photos Marigot Bay

St Martin, Simpson Bay, the Lagoon & Marigot Bay Three popular anchorages. Simpson Bay, south of the airport. The Lagoon, both north and south of the Causeway Bridge, and Marigot Bay, outside the Lagoon to the North. There are multiple marinas to choose from, if you need to get rid of some money quickly and like hanging out around Super Yachts. Check marina hurricane damage.

St. Barts. (French) The primary attraction of St. Barts is the town of Gustavia. The island is a favorite celebrity destination, with expensive designer shops, and high prices. The anchorage at the NW corner is popular, and crowded. The anchorage at Gustavia is also crowded. A place to see and be seen and to say you have been there.

Nevis & St. Kitts (British) Nevis and St. Kitts are one country but two very different islands. There is a nice anchorage on the SW corner of St. Kitts, next to a lagoon which is being developed as a resort location and megayacht destination. That is the only place we visited on St. Kitts. The best stopping point on Nevis is the town of Charlestown, on the west shore, beneath the towering mountain. There is a mooring field, and a resort ashore, with a nice beach. The town dock is about 1 nm away. The town is friendly, clean, and nice, with a good grocery store and a few interesting shops. The people are friendly and outgoing. Take a guided tour around the island in a taxi to really see all the sights. Nevis is a fun stop.

Nevis: View from mooring field Downtown Charlestown Old plantation buildings Rare view of the mountain without clouds

Montserrat (French) We stopped for one night at Montserrat on our way south to Grenada. There a few anchorages on the west side of the island, all are exposed to the west and to northerly swells, Rendezvous Beach and Little Bay are the best anchorages. There is a small town at Little Bay. The bay will be crowded with local fishing boats and other cruisers. If the weather and swell permits, this can be a good stop. But when we were there, the VERY loud music (all night until 5: 00 am) made it impossible to get much sleep. We left and did not return.

Antigua is a must see island, with a great deal of scenery, history and anchorages scattered around the island. It was little damaged by the 2017 hurricanes, but its sister island of Barbuda was destroyed and is now mostly uninhabited. There are marinas at Jolly Harbor, Falmouth Harbor and North Sound. We stayed a week at Jolly Harbor. You can anchor there as well. The stay at Jolly Harbor was a good stop. The customs and immigration was acceptable and easy to find. The Marina is well kept and there is a resort nearby with a beautiful beach. There is a pool at the Marina, good restaurants, and some nice shops. We used the local “bus” system to explore the island. The bus runs from Jolly Harbor to a sort of transit center in the town of St. John’s and from there you can transfer to another van to visit other parts of the island. The airport is good, with numerous flights. We enjoyed our stay at Antigua on our trip north. We were unable to stop there while going south due to weather.

Antiqua: Beach near Jolly Harbour Produce Market View of English Harbour Bush Bay anchorage N. of Jolly Harbour

Guadeloupe A great stop whether heading north or south. We stayed in Deshaies twice. A picturesque harbor and town, with good services. The anchorage is popular and can be crowded. We did not visit the larger towns. Airline flights back to the U. S. (via Puerto Rico) are available from Guadeloupe, but expensive. Guadeloupe is a French Island so customs and immigration is easy and cheap. The French islands to the south, Les Saintes, are very popular, picturesque, and fun.

Guadeloupe: Deshaies anchorage W. side anchorage near Pigeon Islets Sudden squall on the way to Les Saintes

Les Saintes (Guadeloupe) This is a favorite stop for many cruisers. You can leave the main island of Guadeloupe and come directly to Les Saintes, without checking out of immigration when you leave or checking in when you arrive, since both are French territory. The anchorage at Le Marigot is huge and moorings are plentiful. There are several other good anchorages. Check your cruising guide. Shopping is excellent in the town, and there are many sights to see and explore. We spent several nights here heading both south and north.

Les Saintes: anchorage and moorings Part of the town area Dinghy Dock street view

Dominica The island of Dominica was catastrophically damaged by hurricane Maria in 2017. It may be years before recovery is complete. Much of the forests were damaged and homes and infrastructure was destroyed. The effort to rebuild is underway. The people of Dominica are friendly and the island government makes an effort to accommodate cruising yachts, with easy and inexpensive customs and immigration. The harbor at Portsmouth is large, with moorings and plenty of room to anchor. Members of the organization known as P. A. Y. S. provide services and support to visiting yachts and security in the anchorage. When we visited (twice) there was a daily outdoor market with local fruits and vegetables, and several small grocery stores. There was a network of hiking trails near Portsmouth Harbor and many guided tours of the Island its facilities. Before visiting, check to see how far the recovery efforts have proceeded. http: //dominicaupdate. com/

Arriving in Portsmouth, Dominica Street view in Portsmouth Our boat at a mooring Dinghy dock in Portsmouth

Martinique is a French island a major Caribbean destination with numerous international flights. There are several good anchorages in and near Fort de France, and excellent shopping, provisioning, and repair facilities. The harbor area of Fort de France has several major marinas, with all the amenities and services necessary to serve the yachting and cruising communities. The small towns on the south shore of the harbor and on the west shore of the island are adequately protected and sheltered, but expect them to be crowded, with local boats on moorings and visitors interspersed on anchors.

View of Fort de France from anchorage Street view

Martinique: Les Marin anchorage Les Anses de Arlet village Les Marina Beach at Les Anses de Arlet

St Lucia north ½ south ½ We stopped at St Lucia on trips south and north. We stayed in the lagoon at Rodney Bay on moorings and at the IGY marina. There is lots of room to anchor in the Bay but it is noisy with music and jet skis and prone to petty theft. The marina is very nice. There are good marine stores nearby, including a hardware store with marine supplies. A short dinghy ride across the lagoon ends at a dinghy dock, that is a short walk to two large grocery stores. This is the last really good provisioning location until Grenada. There are other places to stop, but St. Lucia is developing a crime problem, exacerbated by lack of law enforcement interest in preventing and investigating crimes against cruisers and tourist. We stopped at Soufriere to see the Pitons, but that was a mistake. Soufriere is a bad place, with unfriendly people. Do not stop.

St. Lucia: Rodney Bay Marina Rodney Bay anchorage Moorings in the Rodney Bay lagoon The Pitons, south of Soufriere

St Vincent & the Grenadines The country of St. Vincent consists of the main island the island chain to the south known as The Grenadines. The main island is considered by many to be too dangerous to visit. Break ins on boats, theft, assaults, and even murders have soured the cruising community. We were unanimously advised not to stop on the main island. Some people go to the resort at the SW end known as Blue Lagoon and it has good reviews. But it has a very shallow entrance. We skipped that at well.

The Grenadines . north islands south islands The south islands are a mixed bag. We stopped at each one. Good anchorages, and un-crowded. Some recent problems with crime. Be cautious. Union Island has The north island is Bequia. Port Elizabeth customs and immigration but less friendly. Clifton is a nice little town. Nice people. is delightful. Friendly and safe. A great stop, going north and south. Customs and Exposed anchorage. Better on the west side at Chatham Bay. Big and un-crowded. immigration is efficient and friendly here. Nice shops and local produce market.

ST. Vincent: Bequia harbor at Port Elizabeth Customs and Immigration offices “Supermarket” Waterfront sidewalk

Anchorage on Canouan Salt Whistle Bay: Mayreau Clifton Harbour, Union Island Saline Bay Mayreau Chapman Bay anchorage, Union Is.

Carriacou and Grenada The main island of Grenada is a very good destination. Every thing a cruiser needs, including friendly people. A terrific place to spend hurricane season. We used Spice Island Marine and were very happy with their services. Grenada customs and immigration at Hillsborough. Exposed anchorage. Beautiful little park at Sandy Island. Also exposed, but moorings in place. Great snorkeling. Excellent anchorage at Tyrell Bay. Customs and immigration there also. Fuel dock & boat yard and marina dockage.

Grenada: Carriacou, Hillsborough Tyrell Bay restaurant prices Tyrell Bay anchorage Sandy Island Park

Grenada favorites spots. Two marine parks on the west side of Grenada. Happy Hill and Dragon Bay. Moorings in each bay. Deep, clear water, with beautiful corals and plentiful fish. Excellent snorkeling. The Capital city of St. George and the harbor and marina. Nice shops, public market, historical sights, great scenery. Come by public transportation from the south or stay in the marina, or anchor outside the harbor.

St George Anchorage True Blue anchorage and moorings St. George Harbour True Blue Resort pool

True Blue Bay. Nice Resort. Dock and moorings, pool and restaurant. Prickly Bay. Huge anchorage, with marina and moorings, and Spice Island Marine boatyard and storage. Great spot to stay to explore the island by taxi or “bus”. Additional marinas and anchorages along the south coast of Grenada. Secret Harbor Marina. Clarkes Court Marina. Whisper Cove Marina, Le Phare Bleu Marina. Port Egmont, Woburn Bay, Hog Island.

Prickly Bay anchorage Haul out for summer storage Spice Island Marine land storage

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