Colour Theory R O Y Gives Better Value

The Colour Wheel The colour wheel is made from all 3 primary colours Blue, Red and Yellow. Secondary colours are made from equal mixtures of two primary colours

The colour wheel or the law of colour is the base of all hair colouring manufacturing. . . Video. Link

Underlying Pigments The underlying pigments are important because they are the stages you go through when you lighten the hair. If you go blonde this summer level 9 and want to return to a level 6 dark blonde, you need to have orange as part of your formula. Blue and yellow make green. If you put a 6 natural on a level 9 you only have a pale yellow underlying pigment. You would have a green cast to your hair colour.

Really interesting fact. . . Under a microscope if you look at pheomelanin pigments (red, yellow and orange) they are smaller than eumelanin (brown-black, cool pigments) This is why reds fade so easily out of the hair. Also it makes them hard to pull out of the hair when lifting.

Two Important Facts! What is level? ● Lightness to darkness minus the tone. What is tone? ● Tone is the warmth or coolness of a colour

The Levels- This is an International System 10 Lightest Blonde ● 9 Very Light Blonde ● 8 Light Blonde ● 7 Blonde ● 6 Dark Blonde ● 5 Light Brown ● 4 Medium Brown ● 3 Dark Brown ● 2 Darkest Brown ● 1 Black ●

Four Categories of Colour ● ● 1. Temporary 2. Semi permanent 3. Demi permanent 4. Permanent

Temporary haircolour ● ● ● Large molecules Positively charged Sits on top of the cuticle Examples- coloured mousse and shampoos Lasts one shampoo maybe two

Semi permanent haircolour ● ● Some small molecules and more larger molecules Positively charged and sits on top of the cuticle. Some smaller molecules could sit just inside of the cuticle No developer Last 4 -6 shampoos

Demi permanent haircolour ● ● ● Small molecules the same size as permanent Oxidizing hair colour Developer needed Deposit only Lasts approximately 28 shampoos

Permanent haircolour ● ● Oxidative colour Developers from 10 volume to 40 volume Permanent hair colour does not wash out but can fade. Ammonia is present

Lightening “The B Word” HAIR LIGHTENING: often referred to as "bleaching" or "decolorizing. " ● Diffuses natural and/or artificial pigment from hair. (this action causes lifting or removing pigments)

HYDROGEN PEROXIDE DEVELOPERS ● ● ● Developers: oxidizing agents that, when mixed with an oxidative haircolour, supply the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and change hair colour. Also called oxidizing agents or catalysts Have a p. H between 2. 5 and 4. 5. Hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2) is the most common developer. Volume of developers: vary in strength. Lower volume, less lift. Higher volume, greater lift. Majority of haircolour products use 10, 20, 30, or 40 volume hydrogen peroxide for colour development.

Hydrogen peroxide Watch this little video for a visual on the difference between 10 volume and 40 volume developer

NATURAL HAIR COLOURS: also known as vegetable hair colours, such as Henna ● ● Obtained from leaves or bark of plants. No lightening action occurs. Colour results tend to be weak; process is lengthy and messy. Shade ranges are limited: black, chestnut, and auburn tones. Many professional products can not be applied over natural hair colours

METALLIC HAIRCOLOUR: also called gradual colors ● ● ● Contain metal salts. Change hair colour by progressive buildup and exposure to air. Historically marketed to men.

Lighteners We use lighteners to: ● Lighten prior to colour application. ● Lighten to a desired shade. ● Brighten and lighten existing shade. ● Lighten only certain parts of hair. ● Lighten dark natural or colour-treated levels. ● You can only remove or lighten artificial haircolour with lightener not a colour

10 Stages of Lightening and Underlying Pigment International Leveling System 10 (Lightest Blonde) yellow 9 (Very Light Blonde) Pale yellow 8 (Light Blonde) Yellow 7 (Blonde) Gold 6 (Dark Blonde) Orange 5 (Light Brown) Orange- Red Underlying pigment Palest