Chapter3 Satin weave Introduction Satin weave although more

Chapter-3 Satin weave

Introduction • Satin weave, although more complicated, is a flexible type of weave than the plain weave. • It is called 'satin' when filament fibers such as silk or nylon are used and is called 'sateen' when short-staple yarns like cotton is used to make it. • The satin weave is lustrous with a smooth surface and it drapes in an excellent manner. • The examples of satin weave fabrics are brocade, brocatelle, crepe-satin, peau de soie, velvet satin etc.

Characteristics of satin weave: • • • 3 rd basic weave Minimum repeat 4 X 4 Weave contains long floats More lustrous appearance. Filaments yarns are mainly used. Low twisted yarns are used Loose structure due to less interlacing point High thread density Move numbers are required to produce these weaves. Not suitable for repeated wearing.

• Formula number may be (A>=3) • Warp satin or satin • Weft satin or sateen

Move numbers • Move number is the order of successive interlacing point of satin weave. The Satin or Sateen weaves are developed with the help of this move or count number. Definition: • For Satin weave, the distance between consecutive interlacing points is always the same and referred to as step value or move numbers of the satin weave.

Criteria for step value selection: • To establish this number certain rules have to be considered. a) The number must not be one or one less then the number of thread in the repeat, as this would create a twill. b) Even step value is not accepted for even repeat of satin c) Repeat number can not be divided by accepted step value.

Move Number or Step Value • • 4=1+3, 2+2 No move number 5=1+4, 2+3 Move numbers: 2, 3 6=1+5, 2+4, 3+3 No move number 7=1+6, 2+5, 3+4 Move numbers: 2, 3, 4, 5 8=1+7, 2+6, 3+5, 4+4 Move numbers: 3, 5 9=1+8, 2+7, 3+6, 4+5 Move numbers: 2, 4, 5, 7 10=1+9, 2+8, 3+7, 4+6, 5+5 MN : 3, 7

TYPES : • Both warp and weft satins are divided into two groups, such as • -Regular warp satin and irregular warp satin. • -Regular weft satin and irregular weft satin.

Classification of satin • Regular satin or sateen: Has move numbers • Irregular satin or sateen: Has no move numbers.

Advantage : Satin weaves are • Smooth • Lustrous • Rich looking and attractive fabric • It gives reasonably good service if they are not subjected to excessive hard wear. • Short float fabric are more durable than long float fabric. • When style for luxurious fabric formal wear, satin is often chosen.

Disadvantage : • Satin weave usually required more shaft in the weaving than do the plain or twill weave • Shedding mechanism with more shaft increases the cost of production. • Although long floats increase the sheen of a fabric, snag and pull if there any protrusions or splinters on furniture. • Structure is not so strong.

Satin weave

Satin weave

Sateen VS Satin

Sateen structure

Derivatives of satin weave 1. Crepe weaves: a) on a sateen base b) By reversing c) By super-imposing d) on a plain base 2. Corkscrew weaves 3. Shaded weaves a) Single shaded satin weave b) Double shaded satin weave

Commercial name and uses Commercial name of satin fabric: Antique satin, bridal satin, charmeuse, cotton satin, satin bengaline, satin crepe, satin faille, slipper satin, and venetian satin. Uses: Bridal gown, Evening wear, Special event decorating, Tie, Curtain, dresses, skirts

Questions • 1. characteristics of satin weave • 2. advantages and disadvantages of satin weave • 3. define move number. Conditions for selection of move numbers • 4. compare between single shaded sateen and double shaded sateen weave • 5. uses of satin fabric • 6. commercial name of satin fabric. • 7. write the derivatives of satin weave. • 8. difference between warp satin and weft satin, regular and irregular satin

Satin fabrics

Uses

Antique satin • Antique satin refers to any 5 or 8 harness (shaft) satin weave that uses slubed or unevenly spun yarns in the weft (filling).

Charmeuse • Charmeuse is a lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave, where the warp threads cross over three or more of the backing (weft) threads. • The front side of the fabric has a satin finish lustrous and reflective whereas the back has a dull finish

Slipper satin • This slipper satin fabric has a beautiful sheen, soft hand wonderful full fold drape. It is perfect for wedding dresses, special occasion apparel, blouses, dresses and skirts.

Crepe Satin • Rich satin sheen on one side, and fabulous crepe texture on the back! This polyester special occasion fabric is perfect for prom dresses, bridal gowns for the bride and her bridesmaids, evening wear and for special event decorating