Chapter 24 Sewing Equipment Learning Target describe the

Chapter 24 Sewing Equipment

Learning Target • describe the sewing equipment needed for sewing. Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Shears • Shears are used to cut pattern pieces from fabric; blades are 7 to 8 inches long • Bent-handled shears allow fabric to lie flat as it is cut, giving more accurate cutting • Use on fabric only, not on string or paper Marc Dietrich/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Scissors • Scissors are used to clip around curves, trim seams, and clip threads • Blades are different widths, but about 4 to 6 inches long Serg 64/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Rotary Cutter • A rotary cutter is good for cutting straight lines, especially those for quilt pieces • It has a round blade and looks like a pizza cutter Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Pinking or Scalloping Shears • Use pinking or scalloping shears for giving seam edges a finished look • Also use to achieve a decorative look on nonwoven fabrics • Do not use to cut garment pieces from fabric Frances L Fruit/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Thread Clipper and Seam Ripper • Use a thread clipper to clip threads at the start and end of every stitching line; or use it as a seam ripper • Use a seam ripper to remove stitches Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Tape Measure • A tape measure is 60 inches long and used for taking body measurements nito/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Skirt Marker, Yardstick, and Ruler • A skirt marker is used for measuring and marking hemlines on garments using either pins or chalk • A yardstick is useful for marking hems and for lining up pattern pieces on the fabric grain • A 12 -inch, clear plastic ruler is useful for marking buttonholes, pleats, and tucks Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Sewing Gauge and Hem Gauge • Use a sewing gauge (or seam gauge) to measure short distances, such as hems, seam widths, cuffs, and space between buttons • A hem gauge can also be used for measuring hems Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Marking Tools • Marking tools are useful for transferring pattern markings to fabric • Markings are used to put pattern pieces together Michael. Jay. Berlin/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper and Tracing Wheel • Dressmaker’s carbon paper and tracing wheel are used to transfer markings • A package includes several colors of a special waxed paper • Place the colored side of paper on wrong side of fabric; roll wheel while applying pressure • Choose a color close to fabric color Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Fabric Marking Pens • Fabric marking pens contain disappearing ink used to mark on either the right or wrong side of fabric • Two types of pens: – water-soluble pens contain blue ink that disappears when treated with water – evaporating pens contain purple ink that evaporates in under 48 hours Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Tailor’s Chalk • Tailor’s chalk is a clay chalk that comes in red, white, and blue • Available as a small square or as a pencil • Chalk marks can be brushed away when no longer needed Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Needles • There are many sizes and types of hand-sewing needles • Sizes for coarse needles, used for heavy fabrics, are low numbers • Sizes for fine needles, used for delicate fabrics, are high numbers • A size 1 needle is larger than a size 12 needle Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Think About It What size needle is used for most handsewing tasks? Artography/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Hand-Sewing Needles • Sharps are most often used; average in length with a small eye • Betweens are useful for fine stitches; very short with a small eye • Crewel or embroidery needles are used for crewel and embroidery projects and hand sewing; have larger eye Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Sewing-Machine Needles • Sewing-machine needles come in a range of sizes from 9 to 18 • Lower numbers are finer needles; higher numbers are coarser needles • Fabric weight and size or type of thread determines needle size; use sizes 9 or 11 for fine fabrics and sizes 16 or 18 for heavier fabrics continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Sewing-Machine Needles • Ballpoint needles are used for knits and stretch fabrics; rounded tip allows needle to slip between yarns • Sharp needles are used for woven fabrics; tip pierces heavyweight, densely woven fabrics • Universal needles are an all-purpose needle Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Pins • Straight pins attach pattern pieces to fabric and pin garment pieces together before sewing • Types of pins are – – dressmaker’s pins silk pins ballpoint pins ball-headed pins Alen. Kadr/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Pincushions and Thimbles • Pincushions make it easier to pick up pins and replace them; also keep pins from falling into the sewing machine • When hand-sewing thick layers or tightly woven fabrics, a thimble can protect your fingers; should fit the middle finger of your sewing hand Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Learning Target • describe the various types of notions that may be needed for sewing a garment or project. Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Notions • Notions are nonfabric items that become part of a garment or project • Pattern envelopes list notions • A garment and its notions should have the same care requirements © John. Kwan/Shutterstock Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Thread • Thread comes in a wide variety of colors • If using solid-colored fabric, select thread that is slightly darker • If using a print or a plaid fabric, try to select thread that matches the background color in the fabric • Choosing the right fiber content of thread is just as important as choosing the color Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Think About It When using solidcolored fabric, why should you select thread that is slightly darker than the fabric? suthiwat/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Polyester/Cotton Thread • • • All-purpose Strong Stretchable Minimal shrinkage Often used with knit and stretch fabrics Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Polyester Thread • • All-purpose Strong Abrasion resistant Can stretch and recover Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Mercerized Cotton Thread • Smooth and lustrous • Limited stretch • Used on woven fabrics made of natural fibers Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Fasteners • Fasteners include zippers, buttons, hooks and eyes, snaps, and hook-and-loop tape Garsya/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Zippers • All-purpose zippers are used most often; open from the top only • Separating zippers can come apart at the bottom; used on jackets and parkas • Invisible zippers look like seams from the right side of the garment; stitching is not visible continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Zippers • Two-way zippers have sliders at the top and bottom; open at either end • Trouser zippers have wider tapes and teeth than other zippers Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Buttons • Buttons can be decorative or functional • A button’s size is its diameter • Sew-through buttons have two to four holes in them; thread is stitched through the holes • Shank buttons have a loop underneath the button; thread is stitched through the loop Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Think About It What type of button— sew-through or shank— is shown here? Africa Studio/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Hooks, Eyes, and Snaps • Regular hooks and eyes have curved or straight eyes • Curved eyes are used on edges that just meet, such as the edge of a collar • Straight eyes are used when edges overlap, such as on a waistband • Trouser hooks and eyes are wider and flatter continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Hooks, Eyes, and Snaps • Snaps also come in many sizes • Smaller snaps are used in areas with little strain • Hooks and eyes and snaps usually come in black and silver Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Hook-and-Loop Tape • Hook-and-loop tape is made up of two pieces of nylon: – one piece with tiny nylon loops – the other piece with a fuzzy surface • When the two pieces are pressed together, they stick to each other Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Think About It What is a common brand of hook-and-loop tape? Stocksnapper/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Tapes and Trims • Tapes and trims are available in a variety of types, widths, and colors, and can be functional or decorative continued fieldwork/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Tapes and Trims • Seam tape is a woven tape used to finish hem and facing edges • Twill tape is a firm tape used to reinforce seams • Hem facing is a wide type of bias tape used for hems continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Tapes and Trims • Bias tape is a single-fold or double-fold tape that stretches; use it to bind curved or straight edges or for casings and ties • Piping is a corded bias strip that can be inserted into a seam for a decorative effect Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Elastics • Elastic gives garments a better fit • Elastic is available in different widths and types • Woven elastic stays the same width when stretched; it is used in casings or stitched directly to a garment continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Elastics • Braided elastic narrows when stretched; it is only used in casings • Knitted elastic is soft, lightweight, and resists curling when stretched Khvost/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Interfacing • Interfacings are either sewn into a garment or fused on with a fusible backing • Gives shape to collars, cuffs, waistbands, and pockets; add strength to necklines, buttonholes, and front closings • Choose interfacing the same weight or a little lighter weight than your fabric • There are woven and nonwoven types Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Pressing Equipment • Press with an iron as you sew • A steam iron produces moisture that shapes the garment continued Pixie. Me/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Pressing Equipment • Use a dry iron with a damp press cloth; cover the fabric with the cloth to supply steam and prevent iron shine and possible water drops on fabric • Press small details with a sleeve board • Press open seams with a seam roll • Press curved seams and darts with a pressing ham Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Learning Target • identify the parts and functions of the parts of a sewing machine. Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

The Sewing Machine • Elias Howe patented his sewing machine in 1846 • Many of today’s machines use computer technology Olena Zaskochenko/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Parts of the Sewing Machine • Different models and brands of sewing machines often have different features • Having some knowledge of a sewing machine’s parts is useful • The main parts of most sewing machines are listed in the following slides continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Parts of the Sewing Machine Part Hand wheel (also called the balance wheel) Bobbin winder Spool pin Function Controls movement of take-up lever and needle; moves needle up and down Guides thread when filling bobbin with thread Holds spool of thread continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Parts of the Sewing Machine Part Presser foot pressure adjustment Stitch width dial Thread guides Function Controls amount of pressure of presser foot against feed system Controls zigzag stitch width and positions needle for straight stitching Lead thread to the needle continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Parts of the Sewing Machine Part Bobbin winder tension disc Take-up lever Face plate Function Regulates thread tension for bobbin winding Controls flow of needle thread Swings open for access to movable parts and light on some machines continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Parts of the Sewing Machine Part Thread tension dial Presser foot Feed dog Needle plate Needle clamp Function Sets the tension Holds fabric against feed system teeth Moves fabric under the presser foot Displays guidelines for sewing Holds needle in place continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Parts of the Sewing Machine Part Stitch length dial Reverse lever Presser foot lifter Thread cutter Bobbin cover plate Function Regulates stitch length; stretch stitching Activates backward stitching Raises and lowers presser foot Cuts thread Covers bobbin and bobbin case Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Learning Target • recognize minor sewing-machine problems that might occur and solve them. Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Using the Sewing Machine • Sewing machines operate with two threads – needle thread – bobbin thread Kuznetsov Dmitriy/Shutterstock. com Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Minor Problems and Cures Problem 1. Loud noise as you start to sew and matted threads in seam line Cause Cure • Machine threaded wrong • Thread machine again continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Minor Problems and Cures Problem 2. Lower thread breaks Cause • Lower tension too tight • Knot in bobbin thread Cure • Adjust tension screw • Check thread continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Minor Problems and Cures Problem 3. Puckered seam line Cause Cure • Tension too tight • Sew on • Thread too different weight heavy or light fabric • Pulling on fabric • Make sure • Tail ends of threads are threads caught under presser in presser foot and to back when starting continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Minor Problems and Cures Problem 4. Machine locks, needle will go up and down Cause • Thread caught in bobbin Cure • Turn hand wheel backward to release thread continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Minor Problems and Cures Problem 5. Skipped stitches Cause Cure • Needle bent, • Check needle blunt, too long or • Thread needle short again • Needle threaded • May need a wrong stretch needle continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Minor Problems and Cures Problem Cause 6. Looped • Top tension stitches, top adjusted wrong line, bottom • Bottom tension line adjusted wrong • Thread not fully in tension dial Cure • Check tension continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Minor Problems and Cures Problem Cause Cure 7. Needle picks • Point of needle • Insert new or pulls bent when it hit a needle thread in line pin of stitching continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Minor Problems and Cures Problem 8. Needle breaks Cause • Presser foot loose and needle hit it • Pulling fabric while stitching Cure • Tighten presser foot, do not pull fabric continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Minor Problems and Cures Problem 9. Machine runs “hard” Cause • Needs cleaning and oiling Cure • Clean and oil according to instruction booklet continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Minor Problems and Cures Problem 10. Machine will not run at all Cause Cure • Machine may be • Check to see if unplugged, cord plugged in or outlet may be tightly defective • Check another outlet to see if cord is okay Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Sewing-Machine Safety • • • Be sure needle is not bent or damaged Wear shoes Plug power cord into machine and wall outlet Tie back long hair Avoid loose-fitting clothing or jewelry Keep fingers at least 1 inch from needle and presser foot • Do not sew over pins or put them in mouth • Keep your eyes on your sewing at all times Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Learning Target • summarize how to care for a sewing machine. Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Caring for the Sewing Machine • Check the manual that comes with a machine for care and maintenance information • Unplug the sewing machine before cleaning it • Regularly remove lint and fluff from exposed parts using a soft cloth • With a small lint brush, clean behind the face plate and around the feed dog and bobbin case Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Review 1. Explain the differences between shears and scissors and their uses. Shears are longer with handles shaped to fit hand; use shears to cut pattern pieces from fabric and use scissors to clip around curves, trim seams, and clip threads 2. What size and type of needle is most often used for hand sewing? sharp, size 7 or 8 continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Review 3. What type of machine needle is best for use with knits and why? ballpoint needle; rounded tip allows needle to slip between yarns 4. What are the advantages of sewing with a polyester/cotton thread? It is strong, is stretchable, and has minimum shrinkage continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Review 5. What type of zipper would you use for a jacket and why? separating zipper because it can come apart at the bottom 6. In what places is interfacing used in a garment? under the outer fabric; necklines, buttonholes, and front closings; collars, cuffs, waistbands, and pockets continued Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.

Review 7. What piece of pressing equipment is used for curved seams and darts? pressing ham 8. What two parts of the sewing machine work together to move the fabric forward? presser foot and feed dog Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co. , Inc. May not be posted to a publicly accessible website.