Chapter 23 Facials Learning Objectives Explain the pertinent

Chapter 23 Facials

Learning Objectives • Explain the pertinent information to gather during a client consultation and skin analysis before performing facial treatments. • Identify examples of contraindication that prohibit performing facial treatments. • Determine the difference between skin type and skin condition. • Name the different categories of skin care products used in facial treatments. (continues)

Learning Objectives (continued) • Explain the different categories of skin care products used in facial treatments, and provide examples of each. • Define why massage is used during a facial. • Name and briefly describe the five categories of massage manipulations. • Name and describe two types of electrical machines used in facial treatments. (continues)

Learning Objectives (continued) • Explain how the two types of electrical machines add value to a facial. • Know the difference between galvanic and highfrequency treatments used in facial services. • Explain how light therapy is used to treat the skin. • Discuss how aromatherapy is used in the basic facial.

Introduction • Besides being very relaxing, facial treatments can offer many improvements to the appearance of the skin. • Proper skin care can make oily skin look cleaner and healthier, dry skin look and feel more moist and supple, and aging skin look smoother, firmer, and less wrinkled. • A combination of good salon facial treatments and effective, individualized home care will show visible results.

Conduct a Consultation and Skin Analysis • Analysis determines skin type, skin condition, and needed treatment. • Consultation allows you to ask questions about client’s health and skin care history, and to advise client about needed home-care regimen.

Client Intake Form • Used to determine if client has any contraindications that might prevent skin treatments

Contraindications • • • Isotretinoin (Accutane®) Retin-A (Tretinoin®), Reno Tazorac, or Differin Pregnancy Metal bone pins or plates Pacemakers or other heart conditions Known allergies (continues)

Contraindications (continued) • • Seizures or epilepsy Use of oral steroids Autoimmune diseases such as lupus Diabetes Use of blood thinners Sensitive, redness-prone skin Open sores, herpes simplex (cold sores) Recent facial surgery or laser treatment

Record-Keeping • • Client data Client’s occupation Clients date of birth Medical conditions Medications Previous treatment Home care recommendations

Determine Skin Type During the Skin Analysis • • • Read health screening form. Have client change into smock. Seat client in chair. Drape client. Have client remove jewelry. Recline client in chair. Wash hands. Warm cleansing milk and apply. Apply cotton eye pads to client’s eyes. (continues)

Determine Skin Type During the Skin Analysis (continued) • Examine with magnifying lamp. • Observe visible pores. – Obvious pores: oily skin – Lack of pores: dry, or alipidic skin

Skin Types

Acne • Pores are very large in all areas. • Acne is considered a skin type because it is hereditary. • Presence of numerous, open and closed comedones, clogged pores, and red papules and pustules (pimples).

Analysis of Skin Conditions • Dehydration • Hyperpigmentation • Sensitive skin – Rosacea – Dilated capillaries (telangiectasias, couperose)

Aging and Sun-Damaged Skin • Aging skin – indicated by loss of elasticity. Wrinkles may appear. • Sun-damaged skin – hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and sagging skin will be present.

Categorize Skin Care Products • Cleansers – Cleansing milk – Foaming cleansers • Toners (fresheners or astringents) – Lower p. H – Remove excess cleanser – Hydrate and soothe

Exfoliants • Mechanical exfoliants – Granular scrubs – Gommages – Microdermabrasion scrubs • Chemical exfoliants – Salon AHA exfoliants – Prior home use required

When to Avoid Mechanical Peeling • Skin with visible capillaries • Thin skin that reddens easily • Older skin that is thin and bruises easily • Skin being medically treated • Acne-prone skin with inflamed papules and pustules

Enzyme Peels • Use keratolytic enzymes that dissolve keratin protein in surface cells • Derived from papaya, pineapple, and beef by-products. • Cream type • Powder type

Moisturizers and Sunscreens • Moisturizers – Dry skin – Oily skin • Sunscreens and day protection products – Serums and ampoules – Massage creams

Masks • Clay-based – oil-absorbing • Cream – contain oils and emollients • Gel – used for sensitive/dehydrated skin • Alginate – often seaweed-based • Paraffin – used with treatment creams • Modelage – beneficial for dry, mature skin

Learn the Basic Techniques of a Facial Massage • Massage is the manual or mechanical manipulation of the head or body by rubbing, pinching, kneading, tapping, and other movements to increase metabolism and circulation, promote absorption, and relieve pain.

Basic Massage Manipulations • Effleurage • Pétrissage • Fulling • Friction • Chucking • Rolling • Wringing (continues)

Basic Massage Manipulations (continued) • Tapotement • Slapping • Hacking • Vibration

Physiological Effects of Massage • Motor points – Varied locations – Relaxation

Benefits of Massage • • Skin nourishment Softness and pliability Increased blood circulation Gland stimulation Stimulated and strengthened muscle fibers Soothed and rested nerves Relieved pain

Facial Manipulations • Chin movement • Lower cheeks • Mouth, nose, and cheek movements • Linear movement over the forehead • Circular movement over the forehead • Crisscross movement (continues)

Facial Manipulations (continued) • Stroking (headache) movement • Brow and eye movement • Nose and upper cheek movement • Mouth and nose movement • Lip and chin movement • Optional movement (continues)

Facial Manipulations (continued) • • • Lifting movement of the cheeks Rotary movement of the cheeks Light tapping movement Stroking movement of the neck Circular movement over the neck and chest

Chest, Back, and Neck Manipulations • Chest and back movement • Shoulders and back movement • Back massage

Know the Purpose of the Facial Equipment • Facial steamer • Brushing machine • Skin suction/cold spray

How Electrotherapy and Light Therapy Treat the Skin • Types of electrotherapy – Galvanic – High-frequency • Not to be used on clients with metal implants, pacemakers, heart disease, epilepsy, pregnancy, high blood pressure, fever, infection, insufficient nerve sensibility, open or broken skin, and fear of the procedure

Electrode • An applicator for directing the electric current from the machine to the client’s skin. • Galvanic machines – Anode: positive – Cathode: negative

Galvanic Current • Desincrustation – softens and emulsifies hardened sebum stuck in hair follicles • Iontophoresis – penetrates water-soluble products that contain ions into the skin

Microcurrent • A type of galvanic treatment that uses a very low level of electrical current. • It has many applications in skin care. • Best known for helping to tone the skin, producing a lifting effect for aging skin that lacks elasticity.

High Frequency Current • An electrode is an applicator for directing electric current from machine to client’s skin. – Direct application: Applied directly to skin. – Indirect application: Client holds electrode. • Used to stimulate blood flow and help penetrate products. • Can be used for acne-prone skin because of its germicidal effect.

Light Therapy • Infrared lamps – used to heat skin and increase blood flow • Light-emitting diode (LED) – used to heal, minimize redness, warm lower level tissues, stimulate blood flow, help acne-prone skin

Microdermabrasion • A type of mechanical exfoliation that involves shooting aluminum oxide or other crystals at the skin with a hand-held device that exfoliates dead cells. • Produces fast, visible results. • Treats surface wrinkles and aging skin. • Requires extensive training.

Use Facials to Treat Basic and Specialty Skin Types • Preservative – maintain health of facial skin • Corrective – correct some skin conditions such as dryness, oiliness, comedones, aging lines, and minor conditions of acne

Guidelines for Facial Treatments • • • Speak quietly and professionally. Explain benefits and answer questions. Provide quiet atmosphere. Work quietly and efficiently. Maintain clean environment. Follow systematic procedures. Warm hands. Keep nails smooth and short. Analyze skin.

© gosphotodesign/Shutterstock. com Basic Facial Application

Special Problems • There a number of special problems that must be considered when you are performing a facial. • Dry skin – caused by insufficient flow of sebum • Oily skin – caused by hardened masses of sebum in sebaceous glands

Special Notes for Acne-Prone Skin • Limited measures for acne: Reducing oiliness; working under medical supervision

Facial Treatments for Men • More men are having facial treatments than ever before. • Always moving with the pattern of the beard • Usually these are downward and outward movements. • Use sponges instead of cotton pads on a man’s face. • Cotton will get caught in beard hair.

Consultation and Home Care • Conduct in well-lighted area with mirror. • Educate client about at-home and salon procedures. • Organize products for retail and explain each.

• Use of essential oils that improves the efficacy of many skin care preparations. • Enhances physical, emotional, and mental well-being. © Botamochy/Shutterstock. com Use of Aromatherapy in the Basic Facial

Summary and Review • In this chapter, you learned about skin types, skin conditions, contraindications to a facial, facial procedure, and various modalities.

Chapter Review Questions 1. Explain skin analysis techniques. Why is the skin analysis important? 2. What is a contraindication? List five examples. 3. Why is it important to have every client complete a client intake form? 4. Describe the differences between alipidic and oily skin. (continues)

Chapter Review Questions (continued) 5. What is the difference between skin type and skin condition? 6. Name and explain the different categories of skin care products. 7. What are the steps to completing a client consultation? 8. Why is massage used during a facial? (continues)

Chapter Review Questions (continued) 9. Name and briefly describe the five categories of massage manipulations. 10. Name and describe two types of electrical machines used in facial treatments and why these machines add value to a facial. 11. Who is not a good candidate for electrical current treatment? Why? 12. How can aromatherapy be used in the basic facial?