Chapter 17 Hairstyling Copyright 2012 Milady a part

Chapter 17 Hairstyling © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

“You can’t be brave if you’ve only had wonderful things happen to you. ” – Mary Tyler Moore © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Objectives • Demonstrate finger waving, pin curls, roller setting, and hair wrapping. • Demonstrate various blow-dry styling techniques. • Demonstrate the proper use of thermal irons. • Demonstrate various thermal iron manipulations and explain how they are used. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Objectives (continued) • Describe three types of hair pressing. • Demonstrate the procedures involved in soft pressing and hard pressing. • Demonstrate three basic techniques of styling long hair. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Wet-Styling Tools • • • Combs Brushes Rollers (short, medium, or long) Clips (duckbills, double-pronged, single-pronged) Pins Clamps © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Finger Waving The process of shaping and directing the hair into alternate parallel waves and designs using the fingers, comb, waving lotion, and hairpins or clippies. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Finger-Waving Lotion • • • Makes hair pliable and holds it in place Made of karaya gum Diluted for use on fine hair Concentrated for regular or coarse hair Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry Avoid excessive amounts of © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Horizontal Finger Waving • Preparing Hair for Wet Styling • Horizontal Finger Waving • Procedures will be covered during the practical class. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Pin Curls • Parts of a Curl – Base – Stem – Circle © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Mobility of a Curl – No-stem – Half-stem – Full-stem © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Shaping • Begin at open end of a shaping. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Open- and Closed-Center Curls • Open-center curls • Closed-center curls © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Curl and Stem Direction • Forward movement • Reverse movement • Upward movement • Downward movement • Clockwise • Counterclockwise © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Pin Curl Foundations or Bases • Rectangular base • Arc base • Triangular base • Square base © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Pin Curl Techniques • Ribboning • Waves © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Pin Curl Techniques (continued) • Carved/sculptured curls • Ridge curls • Skip waves © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Creating Volume with Pin Curls • Cascade curls • Barrel curls © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Roller Curl Advantages • Speed • Increased strength • Greater creativity © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Parts of a Roller Curl • Base • Stem • Curl © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Choosing Roller Size • C-shaped curl • Curls • Wave © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Roller Placement • On base • Off base • Half base • Indentation © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Wet Styling • Wet set with rollers • Procedure will be covered during practical class. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Rollers • Hot rollers: used on dry hair only; heated electrically or by steam • Velcro™ rollers: used on dry hair only for 5 to 10 minutes (not allowed in some states) © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Back-Combing Technique • • • Section hair. Insert comb. Press comb to scalp. Create cushion base. Repeat for volume. Smooth hair. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Back-Brushing Technique • • • Hold strand. Place brush. Roll brush. Turn brush. Blend hair. Complete styling. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Hair Wrapping • Hair Wrapping Procedure • Procedure will be covered during practical class. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Thermal Styling • The process of drying and styling damp hair in one operation • Today’s women desire styles that require less time and effort to maintain. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Blow-Dry Styling Tools • Blow-dryer – – – Handle Slotted nozzle Small fan Heating element Speed/heat controls Diffuser © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Combs, Picks, Clips © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Brushes • • • Classic styling brush Paddle brush Grooming brush Vent brush Round brush Teasing brush © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Styling Products • Foam or mousse • Volumizers • Gels • Pomade or wax • Liquid gels or texturizers • Silicone shiners • Straightening gels • Hair spray or finishing spray © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Blow-Dry Cautions • Don’t hold dryer in one place too long. • Direct air flow. • Direct hot air away from scalp. • Move in back-and-forth motion. • Partially dry before style blow-drying. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Blow-Dry Procedures • Blow-drying short, layered, curly hair • Diffusing long, curly hair • Blow-drying straight or wavy hair for volume • Blow-drying blunt or long-layered hair into straight style • Procedures will be covered during practical class. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Thermal Hairstyling • Methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Thermal Irons • Four parts – – Rod handle Shell handle Barrel or rod Shell © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Flat Irons • Range in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across • Used to create smooth, straight styles © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Testing Thermal Irons • Heat iron. • Clamp heated iron over tissue. • Note if paper scorches. • Let cool as needed. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Care of Thermal Irons • Wash with soap and water. • Use fine sandpaper or steel wool. • Oil joint. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Thermal Iron Comb • Size • Holding comb © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Manipulating Thermal Irons • Grasp handles with dominant hand. • Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with little finger in front and thumb in front of upper handle. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Practice with Cold Irons © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Other Types of Curls • Spiral curls – – – Part hair. Insert iron. Rotate iron. Hold for 4 to 5 seconds. Remove iron. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Other Types of Curls (continued) • End curls. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Other Types of Curls (continued) • Volume-base thermal curls – – – Section off base. Hold strand at 135 -degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place on base. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Other Types of Curls (continued) • Full-base thermal curls – – – Section off base. Hold strand at 125 -degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place firmly on base. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Other Types of Curls (continued) • Half-base thermal curls – – – Section off base. Hold hair at 90 -degree angle. Slide iron over hair strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place it half on base. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Other Types of Curls (continued) • Off-base thermal curls – – – Section off base. Hold hair at 70 -degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place off base. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Finished Thermal Curl Settings © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Safety Measures • Get instructions for use of irons. • Keep irons clean. • Do not overheat. • Test temperature. • Handle carefully. • Place hot irons in safe place to cool. • Don’t place handles too close to heater. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Safety Measures (continued) • • Properly balance irons in heater. Use hard rubber or nonflammable combs. Do not use metal combs. Place comb between scalp and iron. Curl only clean, dry hair. Avoid fishhooks. Use gentle setting on chemically-treated hair. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Thermal Hair Straightening Types • Soft press • Medium press • Hard press © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Analysis of Hair and Scalp • Wave pattern of hair • Elasticity of hair • Length of hair • Shade of hair • Texture of hair • Condition of hair • Feel of hair • Condition of scalp © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Texture and Feel of Hair • Coarse, overly curly • Medium • Fine • Wiry © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Pressing and Scalp Conditions • Normal • Tight (with coarse hair) • Flexible • Intake Form © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Conditioning Treatments • Cosmetic preparations • Thorough brushing • Scalp massage © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Pressing Combs • • Construction Handles Teeth Tempering the comb – – Heat comb. Remove comb. Coat in oil. Cool and rinse. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Pressing Combs (continued) • Heating the comb • Testing the temperature • Attachment • Cleaning the comb © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Pressing Combs (continued) • Cleaning the comb – Wipe clean of loose hair, grease, and debris. – Remove carbon with emery board, steel wool, or fine sandpaper. – Immerse in hot baking-soda solution for one hour. – Rinse and dry thoroughly. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Pressing Oil Benefits • • Makes hair softer Prepares hair for pressing Prevents hair from burning Helps prevent breakage Conditions hair after pressing Adds sheen Helps retain press © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Soft Pressing for Normal Curly Hair • 17 -17 Soft Curl Press • Procedure will be covered during practical class. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

What to Avoid When Pressing • Excessive heat or pressure on hair and scalp • Too much pressing oil on hair (can attract dirt) • Perfumed pressing oil near scalp • Too-frequent hair pressing (can weaken hair) © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Reminders and Hints • Keep comb clean and carbon free. • Avoid overheating pressing comb. • Test comb temperature. • Adjust temperature. • Use comb carefully to avoid burning skin. • Prevent smoking/burning of hair. • Use moderately warm comb at temples and nape. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Injuries • Immediate physical damage • Not immediately evident © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Special Considerations • Pressing fine hair • Pressing short fine hair • Pressing coarse hair • Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Styling Long Hair: Updos • Valuable service – Weddings – Proms – Other evening events © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Client Consultation • Determine client desires. • For wedding, use magazines, suggest trial run, bring headpiece. • Suggest trial run. • If bridal, bring headpiece. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Styling Long Hair • Knot: also called a chignon • Twist: elegant, sleek look that can go anywhere • Pleat: traditional updo used for weddings and black-tie events (sometimes called a classic French twist)� • Procedures will be covered during practical class. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Summary and Review • What is the purpose of finger waving? • What are three parts of a pin curl? • Name the four pin curl bases and their uses. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Summary and Review (continued) • Describe three kinds of roller curl bases and the uses of each. • What is the purpose of back combing and back brushing? • How can you avoid burning the client’s scalp during blowdrying? • List and describe various styling products used in blowdrying. • How is volume achieved with thermal curls? © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Summary and Review (continued) • List at least 10 safety measures for using thermal irons. • Name and describe three types of hair presses. • How do you test the pressing comb before beginning a service? © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Summary and Review (continued) • What are the considerations in a hair and scalp analysis prior to hair pressing? • Under what circumstances should hair not be pressed? • List at least four safety measures that must be followed when pressing hair. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Congratulations! You have completed one unit of study toward course completion. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.