Chapter 16 Haircutting Copyright 2012 Milady a part
- Slides: 67
Chapter 16 Haircutting © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
“Although fate presents the circumstances, how you react depends on your character. ” – Anonymous © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Objectives • Identify reference points on the head form and understand their role in haircutting. • Define angles, elevations, and guidelines. • List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. • Explain the use of the various tools of haircutting. • Name three things you can do to ensure good posture and body position while cutting hair. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Anatomy of the Skull • Reference points –Parietal ridge –Occipital bone © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Anatomy of the Skull (continued) • Apex • Four corners © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Areas of the Head • Top • Nape • Front • Back • Sides • Fringe • Crown © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Lines and Angles • Straight lines • Angles © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Lines and Angles (continued) • Straight Lines – Horizontal – Vertical – Diagonal © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Lines and Angles (continued) • Angles: beveling, stacking © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Elevation • Elevation: angle at which hair is held from head • Sections: uniform working areas • Subsections: smaller partings • Graduation: layers described in degrees © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Graduation • Below 90 degrees: builds weight • Above 90 degrees: removes weight © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Cutting Line • Cutting line: angle at which fingers are held when cutting © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Guidelines • Stationary guide (does not move) • Traveling guide (moves as haircut progresses) © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Elevation Examples • Blunt, one-length cut • 90 -degree elevation © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Elevation Examples (continued) • 45 -degree with 90 -degree • Overdirection © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Client Consultation • What does client want? • How much time is available? • What is lifestyle? • What is preferred look (classic or trendy)? © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Identifying Face Shape • Pull hair back or wrap with towel. • Note length and width of face. • Note balance of features. – Weight and volume – Profiles © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Hairlines and Growth Patterns • Hairline: the outermost perimeter along face, around ears, and on neck • Growth pattern: direction hair grows from scalp © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Hair Analysis • Hairlines and growth patterns • Density (hairs per square inch) • Texture (diameter of a hair strand) • Wave pattern (amount of movement in the hair strand) © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Tools • Haircutting shears • Straight razor © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Tools (continued) • • Clippers Trimmers Sectioning clips Wide-tooth comb Tail comb Barber comb Styling/cutting comb © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
All About Shears • Steel – Gauging hardness – Rockwell hardness • Cast shears • Forged shears © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Parts of a Shear • Cutting edge • Pivot • Adjustment knob • Finger tang • Ring-finger hole • Thumb hole © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Shear Maintenance • Daily cleaning and lubrication • Daily tension adjustment and balancing • Weekly cleaning and lubrication • Disinfecting shears • Sharpening shears © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Purchasing Shears • Consider dominant hand design • Know how manufactured • Learn about steel quality • Decide on correct blade edge • Select best handle design • Be sure of fit © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Purchasing Shears (continued) • Hold shears in hand. • Swivel thumb shears. • Learn about service agreement. • Ask about warranty. • Analyze cost. • Determine how many needed. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Fitting Shears • Fitting ring finger • Fitting thumb • Relaxing grip • Correct finger position and alignment © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Holding Shears © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Palming the Shears © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Holding the Razor • Method A – – – Open razor so handle is higher than shank. Place thumb on thumb grip. Place index, middle, and ring fingers on shank. Place little finger in tang. Position razor on top of subsection © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Holding the Razor (continued) • Method B – Open razor so handle and shank form a straight line. – Place thumb on grip and wrap fingers around handle. – Palm razor by curling ring finger and little finger around razor. – Hold comb between razor and index and middle fingers. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Posture and Body Position • Position the client. – Sitting straight – Legs not crossed • Center your weight. – Knees slightly bent, not locked – Bend one knee to lean slightly • Stand in front of section being cut. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Positions for Cutting Angles • Cutting over fingers • Cutting below fingers • Cutting palm-to-palm © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Safety in Haircutting • Palm shears. • Do not cut past second knuckle. • Take care around ears. • Balance shears and place knuckles. • Use razor guard. • Dispose of blades carefully. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Cutting Curly Hair • Shrinks more than straight hair • Minimal tension (wide-tooth comb) • Naturally “graduates” itself • Expands more than straight hair • No razor • Texturizing techniques © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Curly Haircut © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Cutting Fringe • Can use stationary guide • Short bangs make strong statement. • Slide cut long fringe. • Cut small portion of fringe. • To blend or not to blend © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Razor Cutting • Razor parallel to subsection at 45 -degree angle • Razor held at 45 -degree angle. • Effective with blonde hair • Guide above fingers © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Razor-Cutting Tips • Avoid using on coarse, wiry, or damaged hair. • Always use a guard. • Always use a new blade. • Keep hair wet. • Hold razor at an angle; never force. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Slide Cutting • Used to cut or thin hair • Blends shorter hair to longer • Useful in texturizing • Only on wet hair © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Scissors-Over-Comb • Hair held in place with comb. • Shear tips remove length. • Method used to create short tapers. • Works best on dry hair. • Lift hair with comb; comb acts as guide. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Scissors-Over-Comb (continued) • Do not hold hair between fingers. • Shears and comb move up head together. • Strive for continual motion. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Scissors-Over-Comb Steps • Stand in front of client. • Place comb. • Move comb up head. • Angle comb to blend with longer hair. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
More Tips • Work with small areas. • Start at hairline and work up. • Cross-check work diagonally. • Use barber comb for close areas. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Texturizing with Shears • Point-cutting and notching © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Texturizing with Shears (continued) • Free-hand notching • Slithering or effilating • Slicing • Carving the ends © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Texturizing with a Razor • Removing weight • Free-hand slicing • Razor-over-comb © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor • Remove bulk or weight. – – Section as for haircut. Comb subsection from head. Cut 4 to 5 inches from scalp. Stay farther from scalp for coarse hair. • Remove weight from ends. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor (continued) • Thinning shears-over-comb • Other thinning shears techniques • Free-hand slicing with razor • Razor-over-comb • Razor rotation © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Tips for Clipper Cutting • Work against natural growth pattern. • Work in small sections (no wider than 3 inches). • Determine comb angle. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Trimming Facial Hair • Using tool-over-comb method • Cutting against comb • Using length guard • Brow and ear hair © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
General Haircutting Tips • Take consistent, clean partings. • Be aware of potential danger zones. • Use consistent tension. • Pay attention to head position. • Maintain even moisture. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Basic Haircuts • Blunt haircut – Weight line – Stationary guide used • Graduated haircut – Visual buildup of weight – Ends appear stacked – Traveling guide used © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
More Basic Haircuts • Layered haircut – Less weight than graduated cuts – Creates movement and volume • Long layered haircut – Gives volume to styles – Can be combined with other cuts – Layers increase form; short to longer toward perimeter • Men’s basic clipper cut © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Procedures – Practical Class • Pre-Service Procedure • Post-Service Procedure © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
The Blunt Haircut • Blunt haircut © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
The Graduated Haircut • Graduated haircut – Classic graduated bob – Wedge – Shorter shape with rounded weight © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Tips for Graduated Cuts • Keep elevation below 45 degrees with coarse textures and curly hair. • Fine hair responds well to graduation. • Check neckline carefully before cutting short. • Always use fine teeth of comb and maintain even tension to ensure a precise line. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Layered Haircuts • Uniformed layered haircut • Long-layered haircut • Men’s basic clipper cut © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Layer Cut Examples • Pixie, cro, Caesar • Squared layers • Shag © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Tips for Layered Haircuts • Cut the interior first. • Do not cut thin hair too short. • Do not cut coarse hair shorter than 3 inches in length. • Do not cut top layers too short. • Use slide cutting to connect top sections to lengths. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Tips for Layered Haircuts (continued) • Work with guideline. • Cross-check haircut. • Use mirror to see elevation. • Check both sides by standing in front. • Leave curly hair longer. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Men’s Basic Clipper Cut • Men’s basic clipper cut © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Summary and Review • What are reference points and what is their function? • What are angles, elevations, and guidelines? • What are important considerations to discuss with a client during a haircutting consultation? © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Summary and Review (continued) • What are the uses for a razor, haircutting shears, styling or cutting comb, and texturizing shears? • Name three steps to ensuring good posture and body position while cutting hair. • Name and describe four basic haircut types. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Summary and Review (continued) • Name and describe at least three different texturizing techniques performed with shears. • What is a clipper cut? • How is a trimmer used? © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Congratulations! You have completed one unit of study toward course completion. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
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