CHAPTER 11 STOCKS AND SAUCES On Cooking 3

CHAPTER 11 STOCKS AND SAUCES On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Pretest • What is mirepoix and why is it added to stock? • Compare & contrast a stock and a broth. • List 3 differences in the production of a white stock and a brown stock. • Name three of the classic “mother” or leading sauces. • Lowfat sauce made from vegetables or fruit is called ______. On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Stocks • Stock Flavored liquid Key to a great soup, sauce, or braised dish Foundation for many classic and modern dishes: “Dirty rice, Chix breast sauté w/ roasted red pepper sauce, Chicken stuffed w/ spinach & ricotta cheese in safffron sauce” White stock Brown stock Fish stock and fumet (foo-MAY) Court bouillon On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

White Stock Ingredients – page 200 Yield: 2 gal. (8 lt) Bones: veal, chix, beef 15 lb Cold water: 3 gal Mirepoix: 2 lb Sachet: bay leaves 2 dried thyme ½ tsp peppercorns ½ tsp parsley stems 8 Fat free & very low sodium On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Mirepoix Ingredients On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

White Stock Method • • • 1. Cut washed bones in pieces 3 -4 inches 2. Cover bones with cold water, bring water to boil, reduce & simmer, skim scum frequently & discard. 3. Add mirepoix & sachet to simmering stock 4. Continue simmering & skimming for 6 -8 hrs 5. Strain, cool and refrigerate On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Simmering On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Brown Stock On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Variation – making brown stock 1. First roast bones to caramelize then remove bones to stockpot; reserve fat. 2. Deglaze the roasting pan with part of water 3. Add deglazing liquid & rest of cold water to bones. Bring to a boil & reduce to simmer & frequently skim the scum 4. Add portion of reserved fat to roasting pan & sauté the mirepoix until evenly browned (carmelized). Then add to the simmering stock. 5. Add tomato paste & sachet to stock & simmer 6 -8 hrs. 6. Strain, cool, refrigerate – review the principles for cooling a liquid. On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Principles of Stock Making • • Start the stock in cold water Simmer the stock gently Skim the stock frequently Strain the stock carefully using a chinois or china cap (p 80) • Cool the stock quickly • Store the stock properly – frozen in cubes or quart containers, label & date On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Fish stock or fish fumet differs from white stock • Uses fish bones or crustacean shells • Mushroom trimmings Other ingredients same a white stock Fish Fumet: “sweat” the vegetables first over low heat in small amt fat; do not brown. Food releases moisture & flavor which is then added to other foods. On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Commercial Bases • • A commercially produced product Available in powdered, paste, or cube form Generally considered inferior to a well-made stock Check the label for salt content, which is generally high – but specialty bases exist- Edam bases • Possibility of saving labor costs • Shifts risk for contamination to manufacturer • You may taste an excellent example On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Other Foundation Items • Court bouillon – simmer vegetables & seasonings in water & acidic liquid such as vinegar or wine. Used to poach fish or vegetables • Nage – add herbs & aromatic seasonings to reduced & strained court bouillon – use as a sauce or broth with seafood • Glaze – dramatic reduction & concentration of a stock – 1 gallon stock makes 1 -2 cups • Broth – flavorful liquid made from simmering meat and/or vegetables On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Techniques to know, see, do Purpose: increase flavor healthfully • Carmelize - sugars • Deglaze – dissolve food particles from sauté or roasting pan • Reduction – concentrate & strengthen flavors through evaporation – by ½ or > • Gelatinization: starch granules absorb moisture when placed in liquid & heated (↑ mouth feel) On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Sauces • Thickened liquid plus seasoning; used to flavor and enhance other foods; fine sauces distinguish a restaurant • Fine sauces are made by Using well-made stocks (vs a base) Using thickening techniques properly (tempering eggs, adding cool roux to hot sauce or hot roux to cold stock) Use seasonings properly (dried herbs & spices added at beginning of cooking, add fresh herbs last, proper substitution of dried for fresh) On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

White, Blond, & Brown Roux On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Thickening Agents • Roux - = parts by wt of flour & fat cooked together to form a paste; cooking starch in the fat before adding liquid breaks down starch molecules & prevents some of the gelatinization. What type of flour has more starch & is best for roux? White (cook few minutes)– used for béchamel sauce Blond – (cook longer) used for velouté sauce Brown – (cook longest) nutty flavor, used for brown sauce Roux should be stiff • Incorporating Roux into a liquid Cold stock into a hot roux or room temperature roux into a hot stock Then continue cooking to remove raw taste • Beurre Manié – like roux but with butter & flour • Liaison – use eggs & heavy cream On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Thickening Agents • Cornstarch- Gelatinization (G) – Asian, glossy sheen, less stable than roux • Arrowroot- G – clearer finish, more stable than cornstarch – good for strawberry pie • Coulis - puree vegetables to provide a smooth, thick mouthfeel • Finishing Techniques used to thicken/concentrate Reduction On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Mother or “Leading” Sauces Liquid & thickener: 1. Béchamel – milk & roux (clarified butter) 2. (basis of cheese sauce, nantua sauce) 2. Velouté- white stock & roux (basis of allemande or mushroom sauce) 3. Espagnole (brown)- brown stock & roux (basis of Demi-glace, bordelaise sauce) 4. Tomato – tomato (basis of creole or spanish sauce) 5. Hollandaise – butter and egg yolk On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Compound Butter On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Compound Butters • Made by incorporating various seasonings into softened whole butter • Ingredients can be combined in a blender, food processor, or mixer • Used as a sauce or for seasoning other dishes – chef in video put on lamb chop On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Other Sauces and Contemporary Sauces • Pan gravy (a brown sauce w/ pan drippings) • Coulis- purée of fruit or veg / serve hot or cold chop, sauté, deglaze w/ wine or stock, puree, strain raspberry sauce – example of uncooked coulis • Salsa – mango is a popular with fish • Vegetable juice sauces • Broths On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458

Post-test • What is mirepoix and why is it added to stock? • Compare & contrast a stock and a broth. • List 3 differences in the production of a white stock and a brown stock. • Name three of the classic “mother” or leading sauces. • Lowfat sauce made from vegetables or fruit is called _____. On Cooking, 3 rd Edition Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause © 2003 Pearson Education, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458