Chapter 10 Fish and Shellfish 2007 Thomson Delmar

Chapter 10 Fish and Shellfish © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Market Forms of Fresh Fish • Whole: the fish is literally untouched, without anything removed • Drawn: viscera/entrails/gut have been removed and stomach cavity cleaned • Dressed: gut, all fins, and scales are removed; sometimes head and tail also • Filleted and Trimmed: the flesh is removed from the bone and trimmed into fillets; skin also is removed at this stage • Portioned: fillets are cut into specifications

Market Forms of Shellfish • Alive and Well: should be purchased and received alive • Shucked or Shelled: removed from shell and cleaned appropriately

Classification of Fish • Round White – Vertical backbone – Fillet on either side – One eye on each side of the head – Flesh is white in color

Classification of Fish • Round Oily – Vertical backbone – Fillet on either side – One eye on each side of the head – Flesh varies in color from shades of red to dark purple to off-white – Fat content varies from 26% for eel family to 12% for salmon family to 6% for herring family

Classification of Fish • Flat White – Horizontal backbone with 2 fillets on either side – Both eyes on the topside of the head – Light-colored skin underneath, dark on top • Non-Bony – Have cartilage instead of bone – Examples: shark, rays

Handling and Storage • Fresh Fish – – Cleaned and gutted to preserve freshness Gills should also be removed Should be received on self-draining ice Should be refrigerated at 35ºF to 40ºF as soon as received – Seal in plastic wrap if skinned when received – Should not come in contact with other foods – Should not be exposed to air unnecessarily

Handling and Storage • Frozen Fish – Should be wrapped and sealed in moistureproof and vapor-proof material – May be frozen by glazing – Commercially frozen should be placed in freezer in their original packaging, immediately after purchase – Store at 0ºF – Date packages for easy rotation

Quality Points for Selection • • Eyes should be bright and full, not sunken Gills should be bright pinkish red in color Flesh must be firm and springy, or elastic Scales, if any, should be plentiful and firm and should not come off when handled Should have a pleasant, salty smell Skin should be shining and have a good color Flesh of white fish should be really white, not yellowish Should feel heavy in relation to size

Staleness Indicators • • Unpleasant ammoniac odor Limp flesh retaining imprint Sunken eyes with loss of clarity Gills will be dull and discolored

Quality Points for Selection of Shellfish • Confirm that they are alive – Crustaceans, such as lobsters, should be lively and defensive – Bivalves, such as mussels and clams, should generally have tightly closed shells—tapping an open one should cause it to close quickly – Univalves, such as snail and conch, are difficult to assess—poking the protected flesh in and around the aperture should cause a rapid withdrawal response – During cooking process of bivalves, the shells must open during boiling; if not they should be discarded

Potential Yield of Fish • Yields will vary: – According to classification—flat or round – According to species – As size increases – Depending on cut used – If processed by inexperienced craftsperson

Yield Calculations • Weight loss from scaling is 2% • Weight loss from skinning is 11% to 13% • Weight loss from gutting is 13% to 16%

Fish Fabrication • Evisceration: – Wash and dry the fish with a clean cloth – Cut off all fins and trim the tail – Remove the eyes and trim the mouth if the fish is to be served whole – Remove the scales, if any, scraping with a knife or other scaling hook held at a 45º angle from tail to head – Remove the gills and entrails from the fill slits, also the roes, if any

Fish Fabrication • Evisceration: – Remove the gills and stomach from a round fish, by making a small opening 2 inches in length from the vent to the belly; remove the gut and the roe with care so as not to damage it and create spillage – In the case of a flat fish, make the opening immediately behind the head of the fish where the gut is situated

Fish Fabrication • Open the gill slit, on one side of the back of the head, with the fish on its side on the cutting board • Hold the gills firmly with the fingers of the left hand with the fish shears cut the gill loose from both the left side, where it is attached to the throat, and the right side, where it is attached to the back of the gill slit

Fish Fabrication • Evisceration – Repeat this operation on the other side of the fish until the gills are free – Using the tip of the knife and the thumb, draw out the entrails and the gills gently, taking care not to damage the flesh of the fish – Take care not to break the gut sack because this will create spillage and enhance spoilage

Fish Fabrication • Evisceration – Wash the interior of the fish thoroughly under cold running water and while scraping the backbone with a knife to remove all traces of blood or liver from the backbone. – Rewash and dry the fish with a clean cloth. – Ice down and refrigerate – Any roe removed from the fish should be placed into cold water at once and rinsed with cold water until the rinse water runs clear

Skinning Round Fish • Remove all dorsal, pelvic, and anal fins with a strong pair of shears • Make an incision with the tip of a knife around the head, loosening the skin from the head • Now loosen the skin along the length of the cut; then, starting at the head, pull the skin toward the tail in one stroke to remove the whole half-skin neatly • Repeat on the other side

Skinning Flat Fish • First remove all fins from the fish using a sharp, strong pair of shears. • Cut through the skin across the middle of the tail and, with the tip of the fillet knife, scrape across the tail to loosen a few inches of skin • Now raise the skin from the flesh, placing the thumb of the right hand between the flesh and the skin • Hold the tail in the left hand; pull gently with the right hand remove the skin cleanly from the flesh

Skinning Flat Fish • Follow along the fish with the thumb of the left hand, loosening the skin from the fins on either side of the fish • The use of a little salt on the fingers, or better still, a clean cloth will ensure a firmer grip on the fish while skinning it • If salt is used to enhance grip, always wash salt off skin before using it to make stock

Filleting Round Fish • Ensure the fish has been washed and dried very well before beginning • Remove all fins and scales from the fish with sharp scissors and a scaling tool • Make an incision along the backbone from the head end to the tail, keeping your knife on the bone at all times • Continue to deepen the incision, scraping your knife over the fish ribs, holding the freed flesh in your other hand until the fillet starts to come free

Filleting Round Fish • Follow the bones without cutting the flesh until the whole fillet is removed • Repeat the process on the other side • This technique will yield 2 fillets

Filleting Flat Fish • Remove all fins from the fish and dry well • Make an incision down the center of the backbone from head to tail • Separate the flesh from the bone, moving the knife down the length of the fillet, moving back the flesh as you go • Continue to cut outward toward the fins, making sure your knife always stays on the bone until the fillet is completely removed • Remove the other fillet from that side by turning the fish around and starting from the tail to the head • Remove both fillets from the other side, yielding a total 4 fillets

Filleting Large Fish • Use a larger knife with a rigid blade and very fine edge • Always remove fins, scales, and any barbs • Use sharp strong poultry shears to aid in trimming the fish • Try to support the fillet as it is being removed to prevent it from splitting • Work on a very stable surface

Filleting Large Fish • Wear good gloves for better grip • Make sure the fish is as dry as possible

Cuts of Fish • Whole: appropriate when portion size and shape fit the plate • Darne: steak, sometimes called Côtelette; a slice from a large round fish on the bone • Demi-Darne: cut in half through the spine; done when the darne is too big for the plate • Tronçon: a slice or steak cut from a large flat fish on the bone • Fillet (filets): boneless, skinless portion of the fish achieved by completely boning the fish

Cuts of Fish • Double Fillet: removing 2 fillets at a time, leaving them attached, sometimes with skin on • Suprême (Medallion): applied to large fillets both from flat and round varieties • Boneless Darne: produced by butterflying a suprême into the shape of a darne • Goujon: strips of fish cut 3 inches × ¼ inch • Paupiette: applied to fillets of fish that are rolled and stuffed with mousseline or forcemeat into a barrel shape

Cuts of Fish • Plié: applied to fillets that are folded slightly flattened and then folded in two • En Tresse (Pleated or Braided Fillets): a fillet is cut into 3 strips, leaving them attached at one end and then braided or pleated for a fine presentation • Tournedo: using red-flesh fish cut into circles approximately 3 inches in diameter • Mignon: folded fillet, as for a cornet or triangular shape somewhat like a piping bag

Cuts of Fish • Delice: neatly folded, trimmed fillet that will be poached • Galette (Towered Fish): small fillets of equal size and width, or lightly beaten pieces of a larger fillet, and layered on top of one another with mousseline spread between each layer • Farci (Stuffed Whole): applied to small whole fish after boning and skinning, but with head and tail still attached; is stuffed with mousseline and reshaped

Cuts of Fish • Skin-Wrapped Fillet: large fillet of fish is used; belly is cut from the skin, leaving a square piece of fish about 2 inches on all sides; wrap the exposed fish with the flap of skin and tie well with string • Tartare of Fish: made from fish flesh that has been neatly cut into small dice, and seasoned with spices and other flavoring agents; served raw • Medusa-Style: fillet and skin whole fish, leaving head attached; cut each fillet into three strips (goujons) and dip in light batter to deep fry; serve upside-down, displaying goujons representing the snakes protruding from Medusa’s head

Cuts of Fish • Shaped Fish Fillets: trimmed fish fillets, which are then cut accurately into circles, diamonds, triangles, etc. , with the trim used for other dishes

Prepared Fish • Colbert-Style (small flat fish): – Clean and prepare fish in the normal way – Skin; remove fins – Make an incision along the backbone on one side, as if to fillet, within an inch or so from sides and ends of sole – Neatly fold back fillets – Break backbone in 2 to 4 places, for easier removal after cooking

Prepared Fish • Wash, dry, season, flour, egg wash, and crumb • Deep-fry whole fish • When fully cooked, remove broken spine to expose cooked white fillets • Place colored compound butters within and serve

Prepared Fish • Colbert-Style (small round fish): – – Skin fish or leave skin on, as desired Remove gills and eyes Wash and dry fish Carefully remove the whole backbone, leaving 1 inch of the backbone and both fillets still attached to head and tail – Season, flour, egg wash, and bread crumb the whole fish – Apply vegetable spray to an ovenproof pan and stand coated fish as though it were swimming, but open to separate the two fillets – Bake until done

Prepared Fish • Curled Small Round Fish: – – – – Skin as desired Remove gill and eyes; force a knife through eye socket Wash, dry, and season Flour, egg wash, and bread crumb Push tail through eye socket Secure, if necessary, with cocktail pick Deep-fry or bake until done

Colere Small Round Fish • Prepare as Colbert round fish • Place tail between needle-sharp teeth of fish • Bake until done

En Lorgnette Small Round Fish • Clean and skin as described • Remove backbone, leaving fillets attached to head • Season, flour, egg wash, and breadcrumb fillets • Roll each fillet toward head—the two fillets representing the glasses of a pince-nez, the head, and the handle

Shellfish • Mollusks – Two forms of mollusks: • Bivalves • Univalves – Shells – Invertebrates – Bodies divided into 4 sections: head, muscular foot, intestinal sac, and “mantle” – Respiration through gills

Bivalves • • • 8, 000 species Second largest class of mollusks Shell consists of 2 parts joined by a dorsal hinge When closed, completely covers shellfish As a rule are immobile When they do move, it is by means of the foot, which is stretched as far forward as possible, and then anchored to the ground or stationary object, so that the creature can drag itself slowly forward

Univalves • • 105, 000 known species Largest class of mollusks Spiral, univalve shell Some gastropods without shells, some with simple shells

Crustaceans • Shrimp, crab, lobsters, crayfish, amphipods, isopods, ostracods, and barnacles • 50 million species • Shrimp, spiny and clawed lobsters, crayfish, common crabs, hermit crabs, robber crabs, spider crabs, mitten crabs, and stone crabs all belong to the order of decapods • Decapods move by swimming, crawling, strutting, or raking through soft ground

Cooking Live Lobsters • Classic Method: cut through nerve center by inserting a sharp, heavy knife where the head meets the body • Safest Method: To protect roe of female lobster, plunge the lobster into vigorously boiling court bouillon just long enough to set the proteins of the flesh; allow the liquid to return to boil after lobsters are added, and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes

Cooking Live Lobsters • To fully cook a lobster by boiling: – Allocate at least 1 gallon (3. 8 L) of water per lobster – The flame must be set on high under the pot – The liquid must be fast boiling before the lobster is added – Hold under water for at least 2 minutes if blanching; the lobster should die within 15 seconds • If another preparation method is needed, remove after 2 minutes • For finished dishes, cook for an additional 6 minutes; shock to prevent overcooking

Cooking and Cleaning Crabs • Boil in salt water or sea water; if using tap water, add ½ cup (118 m. L) of kosher salt to every gallon (3. 8 L) of water • Let boil for 5 minutes, then cool quickly under running tap of cold water • Cleaning: – Hold the crab firmly in one hand slide a sharp knife under the shell with the other – Use the knife as a lever to prize off the shell – Pull the shell away from the body

Cooking and Cleaning Crabs • Cleaning: – – – Remove and discard the “feathery” internal gills Twist off all the legs and the claws To expose the body’s white meat, cut it in half Open and separate the halves Dig out the white meat from the halves using the point of sharp knife – Crack the claws and legs with a hammer or nutcracker and extract their meat

Cleaning Shrimp • The head may be removed by using thumbs or a sharp knife – Place a thumb under the head, between the body’s shell and plate-like head, and quickly flick the thumb as if to toss a coin – Place the knife’s tip in the same location and forcefully cutting will sever the head

Cleaning Shrimp • Peeling: – Straighten shrimp’s body and pull apart the shell, starting between the legs • Deveining: – Make a shallow incision along the “back” to remove the contents of the alimentary canal (digestive system) that runs from head to tail, down the back edge of each shrimp; scrape away the dark entrails

Opening and Cleaning Scallops • To open the shell, hold the scallop with the flat shell uppermost • Probe between the shells with a short knife to find a small opening; insert the blade and run it across the roof of the shell • Separate the 2 halves of the shell and pull apart • Slide the blade under the grayish outer rim of the flesh, called the skirt, to free the scallop; pull away the muscle with a small knife

Shucking Oysters • It is necessary to exert a lot of pressure to open oyster shells, so it is important that the angle of the knife, as well as the positioning of the towel holding the oyster, is given special attention, especially for safety reasons • Wrap the oyster in a towel and place it securely on a flat cutting surface with the small indentation in the end of the oyster facing outward; place the tip of the knife in this indentation. • Using a good deal of pressure, push the knife into the hinge; twist the knife back and forth in order to pry open the shell

Shucking Oysters • Hold the oyster firmly on the cutting board to keep it from slipping or sliding away • Once the hinge is popped, pry the lid open wide enough to fit the top of your thumb inside; insert your thumb into the oyster to hold the lid open; do not plunge the knife into the oyster once the hinge is popped • Slide the tip of the knife inside the oyster; keep tip slanted upward and slide it along the roof of the oyster; allow the knife to glide along the roof of the shell until it reaches the muscle that connects the two shells, then slice through the connective muscle

Shucking Oysters • Cut the muscle from the top shell without piercing the oyster itself

Cleaning Mussels • Just before cooking, soak mussels in fresh water for about 20 minutes. • To remove the beard, using a dry towel, grasp the beard and give a sharp yank out and toward the hinge end of the mussel; discard • Remove the mussels from the water; do not pour through a straining device because the sand has sunk to the bottom of the bowl; place in another bowl of clean, cold water

Cleaning Mussels • Once the mussels have been soaked, use a firm brush to brush off any additional sand or barnacles • Rinse the mussels under cool tap water and set aside • Dry with a towel before cooking

Cleaning Conch • Hold the shell on a flat surface or, if you are experienced, hold in your hand, with the open hold side down • Tap a hole in the top of the shell between the third and fourth ring up from the pointy tip • The hole must be wide enough to insert a knife or machete (about 2 inches across the shell and ½ inches wide) to cut the abductor muscle, which connects the meat to the shell

Cleaning Conch • Insert your knife, cut the muscle, and pull the meat from the hole in the large opening by pulling it out by its black claw • Cut around the hard conch meat to remove the loose hanging black and white viscera • With the face up to you and claw away from you, completely cut off the projecting proboscis (long snout) and eyes; do not remove the claw yet because it can be used as a handle while working with the meat

Cleaning Conch • Make a small slit into the body of the meat from the base of the proboscis, below where the mouth was, to the ragged edge of the muscle and remove the esophagus • This will leave you with one piece consisting of a white upper body and a dark gray lower body

Cleaning Conch • Make a slit down the length of the gray portion of the muscle about 1 inch deep and work your thumb underneath to pull this outer gray layer off; hold the claw firmly and use as a handle during this process • Cut the claw from the meat, unless you choose to eat it scorched or raw, in which case you can use it as a handle to enjoy fresh from its shell

Cleaning Squid • Remove the tentacles by cutting off where they connect to the body • Cut off the head with a sharp knife; cut off the fins • Pull out the gladius (or pen); this is the clear, plasticlooking blade that runs the length of the body • Pull out the rest of the innards • Rinse the tentacles, mantle (body cavity), and fins in fresh water, making sure that the inside of the cavity is very clean and free of all membrane, stomach, and body fluids

Cleaning and Preparing Octopus • Wash and dry well • Tenderize by beating on a large rock holding the octopus by an alternate tentacle every 4 to 5 strokes until you have beaten it by all tentacle about 50 strokes in all • Remove the tentacles just below the eyes, separating the head and body sections • Cut out the eyes and clean the body cavity thoroughly

Cleaning and Preparing Octopus • At the top of the tentacles where they join each other, locate the beak and remove by pushing it through the joint and exposing it • Cut into sections for cooking method, washing well, especially the tentacles, which will contain some sand • The skin on the octopus is very difficult to remove when raw; use a little salt to assist grip

Cleaning and Preparing Octopus • Parboiling for 5 minutes will help with the skin’s removal • Small octopus can be left whole, splitting the body and removing the gut from the cavity; remove the eyes and the beak; clean well

Cleaning and Preparing Fresh Abalone • Force a sharp blade tip in the thin part of the shell and separate the muscle from the shell • Remove the flesh and clean well, taking out the intestine and the sucker pad that appears as a dark heel on the side • Wash the flesh well and slice horizontally in two as evenly as possible • Place each one into heavy plastic and beat with a mallet until very well pounded and limp

Removing Roe from Sea Urchin • Turn urchin over to expose mouth (5 teeth in its opening) • With a pair of powerful pointed pliers, break the shell upward in the largest pieces you can, trying not to create any splinters • This will expose the roe and innards (the roe will resemble the segments of an orange); remove the roe from the shell using a spoon. • The innards will also come with the roe; place roe and innards on a clean wire rack and discard the shell

Removing Roe from Sea Urchin • Using tweezers, carefully remove the larger and smaller specks of innards from the roe • Carefully lower the roe into a bath of very cold water, and gently swill them around to clean; do not run water directly on the roe because this will damage it • Clean roe with wet paper towel, removing any small specks that have lingered; pat roe dry, taking great care not to damage the tiny eggs

Cleaning Soft Shell Crab • Pull back the pointed edge of the crab shell and remove the gills on both sides of the crab • Cut off the head just behind the eyes and force out the green liquid that is found there • Pull the intestinal vein out by pinching and drawing on the apron or tail flap, removing the tail flap in doing so • Wash well and store for service