Chapter 10 14 16 17 Collars Cuffs Extensions

Chapter 10, 14, 16, 17 Collars, Cuffs, Extensions, Plackets, Buttons & Buttonholes A M D 225 Patternmaking I

COLLARS

Collar Terms • Neckline edge: – The side of the collar that is stitched to the neckline of the garment. • Collar edge: – The outer edge or design of the collar. • Collar stand: – Distance from the back neck up to the rollover line of the collar. • Roll line: – The fold-over at the collar stand.

Collar Classifications shape of neckline edge Convertible collar Nonconvertible collar • neckline edge of the collar is contrary to the neckline curve of the garment • when unbuttoned, the collar springs open • neckline edge of the collar follows the natural curve of the garment's neckline • when unbuttoned, the collar will stay in place Retrieved from http: //www. aliexpress. com/item/Butterfly-2014 -springshirt-peter-pan-collar-basic-shirt-slim-long-sleeve-plus-size-chiffonshirt/1652979023. html

Convertible Collars • Collars that are contrary • Basic shirt collar: to the neckline of the – The basic convertible collar may be worn open garment or closed. – The collar has a 1 -inch stand at the center back, and its width varies from 2 1/2 to 3 inches.

Nonconvertible Collars • Neckline edges are similar in shape to the curve of the form's neckline. – more similarity = lower collar stand – less similarity = higher collar stand • Three collar stands: – Full roll stand: 1 -inch collar stand. – Partial roll stand: ½-inch stand. – Flat roll: 1/8 -inch stand. The 4 To 1 Rule for Collar Stand Control: 4” overlap = 1” collar stand (full roll stand)

Nonconvertible Collars • Collar width: – Limited by the collar stand height • Common Designs: – Peter Pan: • Round collar edge – Sailor: • Wide, long, and square in back and ends in a V neckline in front The 4 To 1 Rule for Collar Stand Control: 4” overlap = 1” collar stand (full roll stand)

Nonconvertible Collars Peter Pan Collar Retrieved from http: //www. dhgate. com/store/product/new-womenpeter-pan-collar-fashion-gold-print/158307797. html Sailor Collar Retrieved from http: //dressaday. com/2005/08/19/ahoy-there/

Undercollar • An undercollar is made shorter in width than the upper collar to prevent rolling out beyond its stitches.

Mandarin collar • Mandarin collar – also called a military, Nehru, or Chinese collar – stand-up collar – varies in width from 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches on average • Basis for: – Other collars – Stands – Collar & stand combinations

Collar with Stand • A collar attached to the top edge of a mandarin stand that has an extension for the button and buttonhole – (also referred to as a shirt collar).

Roll Collar • A collar type that is a bias fold stitched to the neckline of the garment. – Turtle neck – Roll collar with cutaway neck Retrieved from http: //www. newyorkersapparel. com/brands/spensesleeveless-roll-collar-ponte-dress-24820. html

Review Questions • The outer edge of the collar is called _____. • The side of the collar stitched to the neckline of the garment is called _____. • The height at which the collar rolls over is called _____. • Fold-over at the collar stand is called _____. • 1 -inch stand is called _____. • ½-inch stand is called _____. • 1/8 -inch stand is called _____. • Collars that spring open are called _____. • A flat roll collar is a _____. • Collar stand depends on _____. • Stand for a 2 inch shoulder tip over lap is _____. • Stand for a 1/2 inch shoulder tip overlap is _____. • The base for collar and stand is a _____. • The collar based on a Navy uniform is a _____. • You widen the collar's edge by_____

Chapter 16 BUTTONS, BUTTONHOLES, AND EXTENSIONS

Buttons • Both functional and decorative • Primary purpose – to hold two sides of a garment together • Button (left side) • Button hole (right side)

Button Sizes • range from small to large • commonly designated by the diameter of the button: Line 14 16 18 – line (ligne in French), 20 – inches or 22 – centimeters 25 • Decide button size to complement the garment. 30 • Select the correct button 36 size for space allowance. 40 Inches ¼” 3/8” 7/16” ½” 9/16” 5/8” ¾” 7/8” 1”

Basic Types of Buttons Flat button Shank button • Flat top button with holes to sew through • a. k. a. “sew-through” button • A solid top with an underneath center extension made of wire, fabric, metal, or plastic. • The shank provides a place for the thread to attach the button to a garment for closure. – Full-ball button: • Full circle with cutouts creating a self shank. – Half-ball button: • Half of a complete circle with a self shank. – Quarter-ball button: • Half a circle with a self shank (mound shape).

Buttonholes Length Types • = width of button + height of button • Bound buttonholes: – Folded fabric covers the raw edges of the opening. • Machine-stitched buttonhole: – can be straight, or in the shape of a keyhole • Loops: – Loops are narrow strips of turned bias fabric with or without a filler. • Slits – Appropriate for sturdy fabrics that will not ravel

Buttons, Buttonholes, & Extensions • Button / Button hole Overlap – Requires an extension beyond the CF – Extension: • ½ of the button diameter + ¼ inch – YOU MUST KEEP TRACK OF YOUR CF!

Extensions and Facings • The extension edge must be finished (can’t leave raw edge). • Extension typically needs to be strengthened to support buttons & buttonholes • Solution: – Facings! • Types of Facings – Fold-back – Sew-on Which type of facing is this?

Buttons & Buttonholes: Spacing and Placement Button (left side) Button hole (right side) • Placement: – center is stitched on the CF – YOU MUST KEEP TRACK OF YOUR CF! – Mostly in the body of the garment, with 1/8” in the extension • Spacing: – Mark 1 st and last button hole. Divide remaining space among the button holes needed. – Neckline (1 st button): down ½ of the button diameter + ¼ inch – Try to place a button at bust level, to avoid gapping

Review Questions • Line (ligne) is the button diameter. • True • A line 25 button has a 3/4" diameter. • False • 1 -3/8" indicates a line 40 button. • False • A half-ball button has a shank. • True • Loops function as a trim. • False • A button's diameter determines the length of the buttonhole. • True • A shank is a part of all buttons. • False • Buttons are made of many materials. • True • Chain and blanket loops are a choice for closure. • True • Buttons are marked where the lapel folds over from the extension. • True

Marking & Labeling • Buttonhole [----] and button x

Sleeve Cuffs and Plackets • Many types of cuff styles are possible: – Basic – French • Generally, the cuff is smaller in circumference, so an opening in the cuff and sleeve is required. • The sleeve opening is finished with a placket – Tailored – Simple binding • Cuffs must include an extension for the overlap for the buttons and buttonholes